Transfer case issues

[Edward72]

Hi all, i'm trying to figue out whats not working . Been doing a hell of alot of reading up.

I've got shuddering when turning more than a 1/3 right or left, thought at first it was the Epb so took it apart and reassembled next onto front brakes found a siezed slider cleaned up and reassembled, so moved on didn't seem like a cv joint to violent.

So onto the transfer case after reading up i figued i had nothing to lose and unpluged the solenoid and went for a drive round the garden, no shuddering. Reconnected it and shuddering came back.

Tried changing high to low range nothing so onto the module, green fur around some conections on the module under battery so cleaned them up checked inside module all clean tested conections outside to inside all clear.

I can now select high/low went through manual reset of limits less shudder but still there, next checking plugs on transfer case no water, no green fur reconnected still no change. Unfortunately i don't have acess to a fault reader.

Any suggestions? For what to try next.

[PerthDisco]

What does oil look and smell like ?

[Eric SDV6SE]

From what you've described and if its the transfer case then it sounds like the clutch packs in the transfer case are worn / worn out. Rebuild or get a reco'd transfer case.

However this does not make sense if it only shudders when turning. This indicates steering or susepnsion.

Check the steering rack for looseness and leaks. Have you checked / changed the PS fluid? You have to flush with the engine running to have the PS pump operating. Disconnect the hose from the rack back to the reservoir and run this into a container. Run the engine and have someone turn the wheel side to side (front wheels off the ground), fill reservoir with new fluid as the level drops, repeat until the fluid is all new.

CV joints will make noise if worn out, so if these are silent, you can rule them out. Check for play in the steering tie rods and all other suspension bushes. It may well be the lower control arms and their bushes, they will clunk under hard braking or acceleration.

Good luck

[DiscoJeffster]

Sounds like a classic case of transfer case calibration has gone out and needs to be re-done. If you have a GAP tool you can do it yourself or you’ll need to take it to a specialist or dealer.

[Edward72]

Haven't checked oil yet, it's next on my list.

Shuddering while turning more than a third feels like front rear brakes are binding or the front rear wheels fighting each other over wheel speeds, but with the Tc solenoid unplugged turns like normal.
When doing front brakes checked cv joints steering and other ball joints. Also checked rear propshaft rubber thats intacted.

[Edward72]

Brisbane is my closest dealership i don't know of any specialist close to me. I''m near beaudesert.

[101RRS]

However this does not make sense if it only shudders when turning.

Well no - if you ever owned a Freelander 1 with the viscous coupling in the drive train you would understand [thumbsupbig].

In an AWD car when you turn, the front wheels and the rear wheels travel different paths so the drive shaft to the front wheels will turn at a different rotational speed to the driveshaft driving the rear wheels - the slip has to come from the mechanism that deals with this (a center diff in older AWD landies, a Viscous Coupling in the case of early Freelander or the clutch packs in the transfer case of a D3.

So in a D3 with sticky clutch packs these could be binding evidenced as shudder, when they should allow slippage in a turning situation to prevent transmission windup.

I suspect a transfer case rebuild is in order but as an interim measure and please someone comment if you disagree with the following.

The gearbox torque converter (and the gearbox itself) can cause shudder when it is on the way out and a number of people on this forum have put Dr Tranny (here is one of many suppliers Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx 2 Ounce 2 Pac: Automotive: Amazon.com.au (https://www.amazon.com.au/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B00337DUEU)) in their gearbox oil to alleviate this - basically a friction modifier that allows slippage without shudder when required. It does make the symptoms go away in many cases and for some permanently and for others allows an extension of life.

Now you need to research whether Dr Tranny is suitable for the transfer case (I don't know) but maybe a tube of it will solve you issue either permanently or at least temporarily.

If you search the forum for Dr Tranny you find lots on it.

Garry

[DiscoJeffster]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

[loanrangie]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

Yep,fluid change and calibration should sort it.

[scarry]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

That will sort it,and don’t go to a dealer,an Indie is the go,unless you want headaches.[bigsad]

There are a few on south side of Brisbane,and one at Nerang.A search on here will find them all.

[PerthDisco]

Yep,fluid change and calibration should sort it.

And use only the “Special” LR TC oil

[Pippin]

And use only the “Special” LR TC oil I use Ravenol DTF-1 Transfer Fluid which is cheeper and suitable.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Royal Purple synchromax works well too, better than snake oil....

[Arch]

It amazes me that these vehicles are worth a small fortune but people will skimp on a few $$ and purchase oil that might meet expectations but no one can actually confirm.

[Pippin]

It amazes me that these vehicles are worth a small fortune but people will skimp on a few $$ and purchase oil that might meet expectations but no one can actually confirm. Do the research and you will see that the two alternatives mentioned Ravenol and Royal Purple are confirmed to match the specification.

[Eric SDV6SE]

It amazes me that these vehicles are worth a small fortune but people will skimp on a few $$ and purchase oil that might meet expectations but no one can actually confirm.

It amazes me that people will buy whatever the dealers recommends and tries to sell you when they don't even put a proper label on the container or want to tell you what it is.

The dealers are there to sell cars. They have no interest in keeping your 200000km plus car on the road. They'd rather have you in a new car every year if they could.

[Graeme]

Ravenol TF0870 is what's been in mine for 20K kms and Ravenol MDF in the e-diff for 50K kms with no discernible difference in operation of either.

[Arch]

That's not my point, I avoid buying parts from a dealer unless I can't get genuine elsewhere.

My point is, its only a few dollars more to buy genuine fluids for oil changes that happen probably once during ownership of a vehicle. I have BMW, Merc, Volvo, Land Rover fluids in my garage now that are all designed for clutch packs in transfers and haldex systems. They look, smell and feel the same... but are they? I wont rely on forum speculation when it comes to fluids, I'll just buy the genuine product.

[loanrangie]

A lot more than just a few dollars, the LR badged fluids are way overpriced for what they are.

[350RRC]

A lot more than just a few dollars, the LR badged fluids are way overpriced for what they are.

................. made by someone else anyway.

[Pippin]

................. made by someone else anyway. No probably made by the same major auto oil producer thats why you can't tell the difference except in price.

[DiscoJeffster]

A lot more than just a few dollars, the LR badged fluids are way overpriced for what they are.

If you’re trying to run a Land Rover on a pension I suggest moving to a Toyota Corolla. The different is about $50 over 100,000 Km.

[loanrangie]

If you’re trying to run a Land Rover on a pension I suggest moving to a Toyota Corolla. The different is about $50 over 100,000 Km.That's not the point, fluid tech has moved on since 2004 so why pay more just for a plain white label with no info on it.

[PerthDisco]

In answering the OP I’d definitely say use the ‘Special’ fluid to change and establish a baseline what’s in there as potentially an unknown substance has been used prior. It would be easy to accidentally whack some 75-90 in as even the locking rear LR diff needs a ‘special’ oil for its clutch pack and could be incorrectly filled in error. Even a regular LSD diff needs an alternate oil to a non LSD. It will still work with the wrong oil but LSD will be compromised.

Of course the condition of the oil and substances in the oil may hold the answer also.

Old marine gearboxes used mono weight oil and later ones multi grade engine oil. There’s so many variables you can never tell looking at the outside of a diff or gearbox and do you trust every mechanic not to make an honest mistake in a rush to finish a job?

[Edward72]

An update, have had diagnostic yet. As i tried one more thing.
I dropped the transfer case down enough to remove the TC motor took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes up (brushes look quite worn), refitted and redid the manual recalibration another two times.first time switching on ignition for recalibration the yellow cog fault light came on, along with an F in the drive select position but disappeared after first recalibration. At a guess i would say it was because of the TC motor being turned during the clean up.
It drives fine on lock to lock now, so i quite happy.
All the diffs and transfer are going to get a oil change very soon,once i can the correct oils.
Thanks for the advise.

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

An update, have had diagnostic yet. As i tried one more thing.
I dropped the transfer case down enough to remove the TC motor took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes up (brushes look quite worn), refitted and redid the manual recalibration another two times.first time switching on ignition for recalibration the yellow cog fault light came on, along with an F in the drive select position but disappeared after first recalibration. At a guess i would say it was because of the TC motor being turned during the clean up.
It drives fine on lock to lock now, so i quite happy.
All the diffs and transfer are going to get a oil change very soon,once i can the correct oils.
Thanks for the advise.

Glad you got this sorted.
I had exactly the problem you described (at the tip of Cape York)! It started after crossing Nolan's Brook (deep water), so assume small ingress/water contact somewhere on the transfer case is what caused it.

Unfortunately, I didn't own a GAP tool at the time. Car was barged/flat-bedded back to Brisbane, then the dealers replaced the TC under extended warranty. I was happy, as all done at no cost to me! [bigsmile]

As other's have mentioned, it is absolutely likely to be the calibration of the TC. If you have a GAP tool, plug it in and run the recal. process.
I got a good result, but a replacement TC was completely unnecessary in this situation.

Rob

[Dagilmo]

Just to add the knowledge base and to say a thanks to the forum generally and DiscoJeffster specifically, who mentions it first.

After having some knocking/shuddering when turning I found this thread and following the direction did a fluid change and calibration of the TC. Specific issue resolved and (it maybe the placebo effect) the car seems to be driving significantly better overall.

I used the 'special' LR fluid as I noted years ago the Justin Cooper said to only use the genuine fluid. I was also in a bit of a rush so the LR dealer in Cannington was easy.