Transfer case issues

[Edward72]

Hi all, i'm trying to figue out whats not working . Been doing a hell of alot of reading up.

I've got shuddering when turning more than a 1/3 right or left, thought at first it was the Epb so took it apart and reassembled next onto front brakes found a siezed slider cleaned up and reassembled, so moved on didn't seem like a cv joint to violent.

So onto the transfer case after reading up i figued i had nothing to lose and unpluged the solenoid and went for a drive round the garden, no shuddering. Reconnected it and shuddering came back.

Tried changing high to low range nothing so onto the module, green fur around some conections on the module under battery so cleaned them up checked inside module all clean tested conections outside to inside all clear.

I can now select high/low went through manual reset of limits less shudder but still there, next checking plugs on transfer case no water, no green fur reconnected still no change. Unfortunately i don't have acess to a fault reader.

Any suggestions? For what to try next.

[PerthDisco]

What does oil look and smell like ?

[Eric SDV6SE]

From what you've described and if its the transfer case then it sounds like the clutch packs in the transfer case are worn / worn out. Rebuild or get a reco'd transfer case.

However this does not make sense if it only shudders when turning. This indicates steering or susepnsion.

Check the steering rack for looseness and leaks. Have you checked / changed the PS fluid? You have to flush with the engine running to have the PS pump operating. Disconnect the hose from the rack back to the reservoir and run this into a container. Run the engine and have someone turn the wheel side to side (front wheels off the ground), fill reservoir with new fluid as the level drops, repeat until the fluid is all new.

CV joints will make noise if worn out, so if these are silent, you can rule them out. Check for play in the steering tie rods and all other suspension bushes. It may well be the lower control arms and their bushes, they will clunk under hard braking or acceleration.

Good luck

[DiscoJeffster]

Sounds like a classic case of transfer case calibration has gone out and needs to be re-done. If you have a GAP tool you can do it yourself or you’ll need to take it to a specialist or dealer.

[Edward72]

Haven't checked oil yet, it's next on my list.

Shuddering while turning more than a third feels like front rear brakes are binding or the front rear wheels fighting each other over wheel speeds, but with the Tc solenoid unplugged turns like normal.
When doing front brakes checked cv joints steering and other ball joints. Also checked rear propshaft rubber thats intacted.

[Edward72]

Brisbane is my closest dealership i don't know of any specialist close to me. I''m near beaudesert.

[101RRS]

However this does not make sense if it only shudders when turning.

Well no - if you ever owned a Freelander 1 with the viscous coupling in the drive train you would understand .

In an AWD car when you turn, the front wheels and the rear wheels travel different paths so the drive shaft to the front wheels will turn at a different rotational speed to the driveshaft driving the rear wheels - the slip has to come from the mechanism that deals with this (a center diff in older AWD landies, a Viscous Coupling in the case of early Freelander or the clutch packs in the transfer case of a D3.

So in a D3 with sticky clutch packs these could be binding evidenced as shudder, when they should allow slippage in a turning situation to prevent transmission windup.

I suspect a transfer case rebuild is in order but as an interim measure and please someone comment if you disagree with the following.

The gearbox torque converter (and the gearbox itself) can cause shudder when it is on the way out and a number of people on this forum have put Dr Tranny (here is one of many suppliers Lubegard 19610 Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx 2 Ounce 2 Pac: Automotive: Amazon.com.au) in their gearbox oil to alleviate this - basically a friction modifier that allows slippage without shudder when required. It does make the symptoms go away in many cases and for some permanently and for others allows an extension of life.

Now you need to research whether Dr Tranny is suitable for the transfer case (I don't know) but maybe a tube of it will solve you issue either permanently or at least temporarily.

If you search the forum for Dr Tranny you find lots on it.

Garry

[DiscoJeffster]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

[loanrangie]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

Yep,fluid change and calibration should sort it.

[scarry]

I repeat. Perform a calibration and I’m 99% sure your problem will be resolved. The sign of the calibration going out is the shuddering when turning as the clutch packs are binding up.

There are a number of posts on here for this issue and all have been resolved though the calibration routine. Why it goes out of whack? No idea.

That will sort it,and don’t go to a dealer,an Indie is the go,unless you want headaches.

There are a few on south side of Brisbane,and one at Nerang.A search on here will find them all.