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Thread: Transfer case issues

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    ................. made by someone else anyway.
    No probably made by the same major auto oil producer thats why you can't tell the difference except in price.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    A lot more than just a few dollars, the LR badged fluids are way overpriced for what they are.
    If you’re trying to run a Land Rover on a pension I suggest moving to a Toyota Corolla. The different is about $50 over 100,000 Km.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    If you’re trying to run a Land Rover on a pension I suggest moving to a Toyota Corolla. The different is about $50 over 100,000 Km.
    That's not the point, fluid tech has moved on since 2004 so why pay more just for a plain white label with no info on it.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  4. #24
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    Transfer case issues

    In answering the OP I’d definitely say use the ‘Special’ fluid to change and establish a baseline what’s in there as potentially an unknown substance has been used prior. It would be easy to accidentally whack some 75-90 in as even the locking rear LR diff needs a ‘special’ oil for its clutch pack and could be incorrectly filled in error. Even a regular LSD diff needs an alternate oil to a non LSD. It will still work with the wrong oil but LSD will be compromised.

    Of course the condition of the oil and substances in the oil may hold the answer also.

    Old marine gearboxes used mono weight oil and later ones multi grade engine oil. There’s so many variables you can never tell looking at the outside of a diff or gearbox and do you trust every mechanic not to make an honest mistake in a rush to finish a job?

  5. #25
    Edward72 Guest
    An update, have had diagnostic yet. As i tried one more thing.
    I dropped the transfer case down enough to remove the TC motor took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes up (brushes look quite worn), refitted and redid the manual recalibration another two times.first time switching on ignition for recalibration the yellow cog fault light came on, along with an F in the drive select position but disappeared after first recalibration. At a guess i would say it was because of the TC motor being turned during the clean up.
    It drives fine on lock to lock now, so i quite happy.
    All the diffs and transfer are going to get a oil change very soon,once i can the correct oils.
    Thanks for the advise.

  6. #26
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    TC recalibration

    Quote Originally Posted by Edward72 View Post
    An update, have had diagnostic yet. As i tried one more thing.
    I dropped the transfer case down enough to remove the TC motor took it apart cleaned the contacts and brushes up (brushes look quite worn), refitted and redid the manual recalibration another two times.first time switching on ignition for recalibration the yellow cog fault light came on, along with an F in the drive select position but disappeared after first recalibration. At a guess i would say it was because of the TC motor being turned during the clean up.
    It drives fine on lock to lock now, so i quite happy.
    All the diffs and transfer are going to get a oil change very soon,once i can the correct oils.
    Thanks for the advise.
    Glad you got this sorted.
    I had exactly the problem you described (at the tip of Cape York)! It started after crossing Nolan's Brook (deep water), so assume small ingress/water contact somewhere on the transfer case is what caused it.

    Unfortunately, I didn't own a GAP tool at the time. Car was barged/flat-bedded back to Brisbane, then the dealers replaced the TC under extended warranty. I was happy, as all done at no cost to me!

    As other's have mentioned, it is absolutely likely to be the calibration of the TC. If you have a GAP tool, plug it in and run the recal. process.
    I got a good result, but a replacement TC was completely unnecessary in this situation.

    Rob
    D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
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  7. #27
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    Just to add the knowledge base and to say a thanks to the forum generally and DiscoJeffster specifically, who mentions it first.

    After having some knocking/shuddering when turning I found this thread and following the direction did a fluid change and calibration of the TC. Specific issue resolved and (it maybe the placebo effect) the car seems to be driving significantly better overall.

    I used the 'special' LR fluid as I noted years ago the Justin Cooper said to only use the genuine fluid. I was also in a bit of a rush so the LR dealer in Cannington was easy.
    Gone 05 D3 ARB Front Kaymar Rear Winch E-Diff LRA Tank Dual Battery

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