Harvey the '57 109 ute

[akelly]

Picked up this nice little 1957 109 trayback the other day. Has had a ton of work done by the PO including back to bare chassis mechanical rebuild with some sensible mods. Has a IIA engine and gearbox as well as Series 3 109 rear diff and brakes with a VH44 booster. Apparently essentially all the mechanicals were rebuilt and it certainly looks that way after going over it. Its in current QLD rego and pretty close to roadworthy - more on that later.

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So there were a few minor roadworthy issues - high/low dip not working, brake lights and number plate light not working and the headlight switch (original S1 type) is a bit dicky. An hour or so with a test light, some WD40 and some new bulbs sorted all that out.

It had this very interesting air cleaner / PCV set up. I removed all that and put it back to standard but with a holden air cleaner (I have a stack of those laying around). Because the VH44 install deleted the battery and aircleaner mount there's nowhere to put an oil bath aircleaner right now. I have one but need to sort out a bracket to mount it.

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Its been in storage with the PO for a few years so it was running very rough. Gave it a quick tune up and noticed the timing mark cover was missing so pirated one from another engine I have here. Same with the filler tube - the one that was on the car had a spigot brazed onto it for the PCV hose so I replaced it with an original one.

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Unfortunately the previous air cleaner arrangement involved a hose clamp rubbing a hole through the bonnet. That will need a weld repair at some point.

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Not sure who installed the heavy duty rear axles and hubs but whoever did the left hand side used flat washers that effectively locked the brake drum in place. Had to remove those.

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The interior is pretty standard except for the addition of some panels on the dash for various switches, outlets and gauges - pretty standard additions for series landies. I removed one of the panels that didn't really do much and moved the oil pressure and water temp gauges to the inside, so I have somewhere for my phone and wallet to sit. The extra panel on the left side covers the fuse box and headlight relay so I'll leave that in place for now. The medium term plan is for a new original style loom to go in, with the mods for alternator and the 2.25 engine.

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Overall I'm really impressed with it. Been driving it every day out to the workshop and it handles the ~20km trip no problem. The steering is very good, as you'd expect after a full rebuild. There is a small amount of play at the relay but I think the bolts need tightening.

Will get it in for a RWC and transfer the rego either this week or next, depending on how quickly I can throw a couple of axle oil seals in - minor weeping in two of them.

The kids have named it Harvey, because it came from Hervey Bay. I think that will stick.

The plan is to drive and enjoy it while doing some bits and pieces. I'll be putting in seat belts (GASP!) and putting a soft top on. It will also get a set of nice newly painted rims and Michelin XLZs I have from another project. The front right guard needs some work to straighten it out and I think a paint job will be in the future some time. Oh and the capstan winch is currently ornamental but the PO is dropping me off the rest of the bits so that will get a rebuild too.

I'll update the thread with the various bits of work that go on over time.

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[JDNSW]

On the steering relay free play, make sure that the play is not from the bottom of the relay moving. It is supposed to be securely located by a bolted on ring that is a close fit on the bottom cover of the relay. Also, if the arms are allowed to move on the splines the splines will wear, and I have had an arm break, probably due to movement on the spline.

[akelly]

On the steering relay free play, make sure that the play is not from the bottom of the relay moving. It is supposed to be securely located by a bolted on ring that is a close fit on the bottom cover of the relay. Also, if the arms are allowed to move on the splines the splines will wear, and I have had an arm break, probably due to movement on the spline.

I did check this and there's definitely play at the top - it looks as though the brackets have been splayed out during the removal/replacement process and the bolts haven't pulled it back in. I'm also considering one of the CNC machined bottom plates as part of the overall upgrades/maintenance.

Cheers,

Adam

[JDNSW]

You say it has a Series 3 rear axle - does this mean that the rear track is wider than the front? This is not apparent with the trayback, of course.

[86mud]

Nice find

So is the battery under the passenger seat? Is this standard on the 57 109's or due to the brake booster?

[akelly]

Nice find

So is the battery under the passenger seat? Is this standard on the 57 109's or due to the brake booster?

Its actually behind the cab on the passenger site - PO has welded up a very nice battery holder there. And yeah its because the VH44 takes up the space in the engine bay. Although I think personally a better set up would leave the battery and air cleaner under the bonnet and remote the VH44 somewhere else.

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[akelly]

You say it has a Series 3 rear axle - does this mean that the rear track is wider than the front? This is not apparent with the trayback, of course.

sorry I didn't mention in the original post it has a series IIA front axle assembly. Not sure if this was from the PO or before his time.

Still learning about the various upgrades and changes to this car. My other S1 is an 86" 1955 so I'm not sure what is different because of mods and what is just different due to the year and model.

[JDNSW]

I'm puzzled about the use of later axle assemblies - I would have thought it would put the tyres slightly outside the mudguards, although I suppose the difference is only about an inch.

[akelly]

the tyres are well inside the guards, you can see in the photos I posted. I just heard back from the PO, the diffs are what was on the car when he bought it. The back brakes aren't S3, they're IIA 109 brakes - that was my mistake from the info he gave me.

[JDNSW]

Judging by the brakes on my 2a 109, I would have thought the booster was hardly necessary - it actually has pretty good brakes without a booster (unless you go through water, and i don't think the booster helps that!) On the other hand, I found it worthwhile fitting a booster to my 88 when i had one, although in retrospect fitting the 109 brakes might have been better.

[akelly]

yes I wouldn't have bothered fitting the booster either, but its there now and all new steel lines running to it so might as well stay there. It certainly stops very well.

[akelly]

Not much to report today. Removed the tool box from the rear tray and installed the door tops because its raining the rest of this week. Slightly different look now.

Definitely needs a set of new seals - all of them. More rain was coming in through the windscreen rubbers than through the open door tops on the way to work this morning.

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[B.S.F.]

I've noticed that like me, you've got a Series 2 winch installed on a S1 109 with 2286cc engine, which makes sense, because the clutch hook up is straight forward.
Because of the reduced space on a 109 S1, between the radiator panel crossmember and the bumper, and to gain space between the grille and the bollard I moved
the bumper forward by about 1-1/2". How did you or the PO overcome that problem?
.W.

[akelly]

I've noticed that like me, you've got a Series 2 winch installed on a S1 109 with 2286cc engine, which makes sense, because the clutch hook up is straight forward.
Because of the reduced space on a 109 S1, between the radiator panel crossmember and the bumper, and to gain space between the grille and the bollard I moved
the bumper forward by about 1-1/2". How did you or the PO overcome that problem?
.W.

I'll have to get back to you about this. I have no experience with the capstan winches and its currently just bolted in place for aesthetics (by the PO), the bits to make it work are in a box that I haven't received yet.

Not sure if these photos help?

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[JDNSW]

With a capstan winch fitted for "appearance" you should be aware that the original winch installation should include heavy duty front springs!

[Jcrowe69]

I'll have to get back to you about this. I have no experience with the capstan winches and its currently just bolted in place for aesthetics (by the PO), the bits to make it work are in a box that I haven't received yet.

Not sure if these photos help?

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I'm going through the same exercise fitting my capstan to my 1955 86" with a holden 179, I have all the bits and the drive shaft that engages to the motor has been shortened but I need to modify the brackets that are bolted to the motor for the dog clutch and also the hole in the front cross member has been filled by the angle that was welded into the modified cross member.
looks good! Cheers Jason

[akelly]

ok so with all the weather around of course the wiper motor started playing up. Something in the gearbox wasn't right so I got it off and pulled it apart. Yuck.

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Ran it through the parts washer then the ultrasonic bath for about an hour all up, with a 50% degreaser solution heated to 50ºc. Nice.

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I didn't have any of the gaskets required so I designed them in Fusion 360 and printed them in TPU. Orange was already on the printer, so they're orange.

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Only one problem: the phenolic gear on the pinion is stripped, so its not working still. I reassembled it all and put it back in the car so I can at least wipe the window manually.

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I cannot find anywhere online that has these gears - anyone know of a supplier that carries them? Secondhand motors are ludicrous money so buying one for parts is out of the question. I have one of the cheap chinese knock offs on the way so I have something that works, but would like to repair the original one properly if its possible.

Cheers,

Adam

[edit: PS I have to make some minor changes to the gasket models so they fit better, once that's done I'll be putting them on my thingiverse page for anyone to use. Watch this space if you want them]

[akelly]

Been having a right old time of it with the brakes on Harvey. Won't post a bunch of pics, but it has S2A 109 axles and 11" brakes - which is great except the TLS front brakes are a NIGHTMARE to bleed. I ended up replacing the entire brake system except for the steel lines, then spent a week, no exaggeration, bleeding the brakes. In the process I ditched the knockoff brand VH44 (which was leaking air) and fixed the rear adjusters that were slipping as well. Its now got fantastic brakes, which is nice.

Today's job was to sort out the light switch, which has a bit too much play in it and you can turn it past 'on' which is no good. I had another complete switch but no key, so I ordered a new barrel and key and went about fitting them up. First off I ran the switch through the ultrasonic bath because it was disgusting. Could not find instructions anywhere how to pull it apart so here's some pics I hope help the next guy or gal...

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you bend out the little half moon tabs here and the unit slides apart.

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this detent ball in here is how you get the lock barrel out. You can do this with the whole thing together, in theory, but it would not release on mine, and still wont even after putting it all back with the new barrel. YMMV.

[edit]: forgot to say, its tricky to get the barrel out without a key, which is why I had to disassemble the whole thing. Once you can get to the wafers in the barrel you can press them down one at a time as you slide the lock out of the mechanism. You put the key in the lock to insert the new barrel.

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this shows the detent ball on the barrel, as well as the other ball and spring that are in the main body under a brass grub screw.

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Here's mine all reassembled. I gave the surround a quick dust of black paint just because.

If you take your time and keep track of where things go, take some photos or whatever, you cant really go wrong. its a very simple set up.

Off for a roadworthy cert this week then I can get on with some more upgrades.

[drfish]

This is very useful post. I’ve got the barrel out for replacement, however the light switch needs a bit of love but I’d been told it’s a nightmare to get back together again. I might just give it a crack now…

Cheers, Matt


Been having a right old time of it with the brakes on Harvey. Won't post a bunch of pics, but it has S2A 109 axles and 11" brakes - which is great except the TLS front brakes are a NIGHTMARE to bleed. I ended up replacing the entire brake system except for the steel lines, then spent a week, no exaggeration, bleeding the brakes. In the process I ditched the knockoff brand VH44 (which was leaking air) and fixed the rear adjusters that were slipping as well. Its now got fantastic brakes, which is nice.

Today's job was to sort out the light switch, which has a bit too much play in it and you can turn it past 'on' which is no good. I had another complete switch but no key, so I ordered a new barrel and key and went about fitting them up. First off I ran the switch through the ultrasonic bath because it was disgusting. Could not find instructions anywhere how to pull it apart so here's some pics I hope help the next guy or gal...

180350
you bend out the little half moon tabs here and the unit slides apart.

180351
this detent ball in here is how you get the lock barrel out. You can do this with the whole thing together, in theory, but it would not release on mine, and still wont even after putting it all back with the new barrel. YMMV.

[edit]: forgot to say, its tricky to get the barrel out without a key, which is why I had to disassemble the whole thing. Once you can get to the wafers in the barrel you can press them down one at a time as you slide the lock out of the mechanism. You put the key in the lock to insert the new barrel.

180352
this shows the detent ball on the barrel, as well as the other ball and spring that are in the main body under a brass grub screw.

180353
Here's mine all reassembled. I gave the surround a quick dust of black paint just because.

If you take your time and keep track of where things go, take some photos or whatever, you cant really go wrong. its a very simple set up.

Off for a roadworthy cert this week then I can get on with some more upgrades.

[akelly]

ok so I've had a right old time trying to sort out the brakes on Harvey. He's got IIA 109 axles and brakes, which is great but also my god those TLS front brakes are a pain! After replacing literally every part except for the backing plates and main steel lines I still couldn't get a decent pedal that would last more than a short test drive. I'm putting this here for anyone else having trouble with this kind of thing - it was a combination of stuffed components (seized wheel cylinders mainly) but the thing that finally solved the whole problem was the brake drums are way undersized. I got them machined as part of the work but the guy clearly didn't check them. The max dia is 281mm and you can see in the pics how far out they were.

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The old drums, way out of spec.

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The new TRW drums.

Anyway, I managed to get two TRW drums over the counter at British Off Road and they're getting me two more on Monday, I think the others are the dreaded OEM or whatever but they'll be fine.

Looking forward to having this work behind me so I can actually just drive the thing and enjoy the nice weather with the roof off....

[JDNSW]

That would make a difference!

[drfish]

Hi Adam, try Martin Lawrie at Fuggles Fettling in the UK Classic Car Restoration Services - Fuggle'''s Fettling (https://fugglesfettling.co.uk/). He has new components manufactured. Cheers, Matt


ok so with all the weather around of course the wiper motor started playing up. Something in the gearbox wasn't right so I got it off and pulled it apart. Yuck.

178763 178764 178765

Ran it through the parts washer then the ultrasonic bath for about an hour all up, with a 50% degreaser solution heated to 50ºc. Nice.

178766 178767

I didn't have any of the gaskets required so I designed them in Fusion 360 and printed them in TPU. Orange was already on the printer, so they're orange.

178768

Only one problem: the phenolic gear on the pinion is stripped, so its not working still. I reassembled it all and put it back in the car so I can at least wipe the window manually.

178771 178769 178770

I cannot find anywhere online that has these gears - anyone know of a supplier that carries them? Secondhand motors are ludicrous money so buying one for parts is out of the question. I have one of the cheap chinese knock offs on the way so I have something that works, but would like to repair the original one properly if its possible.

Cheers,

Adam

[edit: PS I have to make some minor changes to the gasket models so they fit better, once that's done I'll be putting them on my thingiverse page for anyone to use. Watch this space if you want them]

[whitehillbilly64]

Martin Has Many Parts.
He Fixed up my 2 80 wipers.

whitehillbilly

[drfish]

And FW2s for me, arrived from the UK last week…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220819/6e260ed351d96502528550550f7b9289.jpg


Martin Has Many Parts.
He Fixed up my 2 80 wipers.

whitehillbilly

[akelly]

And FW2s for me, arrived from the UK last week…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220819/6e260ed351d96502528550550f7b9289.jpg

Could I ask what this cost? I can't imagine it was cheap.

[drfish]

PM’d

Cheers, Matt


Could I ask what this cost? I can't imagine it was cheap.