MT82 Adaptor shaft replacement - tools, tips and tricks

[carpdvl]

Hi all,

I'm about to attempt to swap out my Ashcroft MT82 adaptor shaft (blue version) for a LOF one piece (and seals on both gbox and tc). The gearbox has dumped all its oil and I've been told its likely the Ashcroft seals. Could be a blocked breather etc - plan to check, but I have the one piece LOF adaptor shaft now so might as well do all at once.

Few queries:


As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out) + a bearing puller (get the female part off the gearbox shaft)? Is this the case from people's experiences
Without the Ashcroft special tool how hard is it going to be to unscrew the oil chamber? Can I just chisel it with a screwdriver (not worried about damaging it)
Is there anyone in Sydney with any of the above three tools I could loan off them over a weekend for a slab of beer?


Any other tips and tricks for the job would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Gus

[Robmacca]

Hi all,

I'm about to attempt to swap out my Ashcroft MT82 adaptor shaft (blue version) for a LOF one piece (and seals on both gbox and tc). The gearbox has dumped all its oil and I've been told its likely the Ashcroft seals. Could be a blocked breather etc - plan to check, but I have the one piece LOF adaptor shaft now so might as well do all at once.

Few queries:


As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out) + a bearing puller (get the female part off the gearbox shaft)?
Without the Ashcroft special tool how hard is it going to be to unscrew the oil chamber? Can I just chisel it with a screwdriver (not worried about damaging it)
Is there anyone in Sydney with any of the above three tools I could loan off them over a weekend for a slab of beer?


Any other tips and tricks for the job would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Gus

Few queries:


As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out) + a bearing puller (get the female part off the gearbox shaft)? Is this the case from people's experiences (Yes you will need puller for the removing the MALE component
Without the Ashcroft special tool how hard is it going to be to unscrew the oil chamber? Can I just chisel it with a screwdriver (not worried about damaging it) -- Dave from Ashcrofts sent me a link to a tool that he said would do the Job (see attached a photo). I bought this tool @ TradeTools and it did do the job surprisingly. The previous owner/mechanic must have used too much locktite as we had to use an pipe extension on the end of the tool to get the leverage to loosen the female component.

[carpdvl]

Few queries:


As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out) + a bearing puller (get the female part off the gearbox shaft)? Is this the case from people's experiences (Yes you will need puller for the removing the MALE component
Without the Ashcroft special tool how hard is it going to be to unscrew the oil chamber? Can I just chisel it with a screwdriver (not worried about damaging it) -- Dave from Ashcrofts sent me a link to a tool that he said would do the Job (see attached a photo). I bought this tool @ TradeTools and it did do the job surprisingly. The previous owner/mechanic must have used too much locktite as we had to use an pipe extension on the end of the tool to get the leverage to loosen the female component.




Cheers Rob.



As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out) + a bearing puller (get the female part off the gearbox shaft)? Is this the case from people's experiences (Yes you will need puller for the removing the MALE component isJust what I have been reading online in forums - to clarify do you mean something like this for the part attached to the gearbox output shaft? Or something to get the male-male coupling out? - https://res.cloudinary.com/rsc/image/upload/w_1024/F0237754-01 ?
Without the Ashcroft special tool how hard is it going to be to unscrew the oil chamber? Can I just chisel it with a screwdriver (not worried about damaging it) -- Dave from Ashcrofts sent me a link to a tool that he said would do the Job (see attached a photo). I bought this tool @ TradeTools and it did do the job surprisingly. The previous owner/mechanic must have used too much locktite as we had to use an pipe extension on the end of the tool to get the leverage to loosen the female component Awesome that helps a lot thanks. Will grab one of those.

[spudfan]

I stopped reading this after "
As far as I can tell will most likely need a slide hammer (get the male to male part out)"
Doesn't bear thinking about:cry::cry:

[Robmacca]

Cheers Rob.

Yes, one of those puller types should do the job…

[karlz]

For what its worth LOF shaft has caused no issues for me.
Good luck with your conversion

[DazzaTD5]

I had thought I've posted some of these pics and info here before...

[DazzaTD5]

Some other mods etc to do while you have it apart...
The diff lock lever (the long one in the pic) pivots on a rubbish bitey washer, remove the rod, thread it, thin down the white nylon spacer and put a nyloc on it, tight, as it wears over the years, tighten it up as needed.

Back of the transfer case, the centre shaft that the nut in the pic is on is often loose from factory as it has not been staked enough, remove it, tap the shaft out a bit, on the other side clean it up, put a good quality sealant, tap it back, tighten nut, stake correctly.

add 2 collars to the diagnal bolts on the top shift assembly

[carpdvl]

Some other mods etc to do while you have it apart...
The diff lock lever (the long one in the pic) pivots on a rubbish bitey washer, remove the rod, thread it, thin down the white nylon spacer and put a nyloc on it, tight, as it wears over the years, tighten it up as needed.

Back of the transfer case, the centre shaft that the nut in the pic is on is often loose from factory as it has not been staked enough, remove it, tap the shaft out a bit, on the other side clean it up, put a good quality sealant, tap it back, tighten nut, stake correctly.

add 2 collars to the diagnal bolts on the top shift assembly

Thanks Dazza - these are great tips as well as the tools above. Appreciate your taking the time.

Had meant to do the shift assembly collars but never got round to it.

Also - do you think short of tracking down your little transfer case input shaft wrench doo-dad - chucking the box in 6th on chocked wheels should be enough to loosen off the Ashcroft? I have a puller (that I hope is up to the task) + the C Hook wrench now thanks to Robmacca

Cheers,
Angus

[DazzaTD5]

Thanks Dazza - these are great tips as well as the tools above. Appreciate your taking the time.

Had meant to do the shift assembly collars but never got round to it.

Also - do you think short of tracking down your little transfer case input shaft wrench doo-dad - chucking the box in 6th on chocked wheels should be enough to loosen off the Ashcroft? I have a puller (that I hope is up to the task) + the C Hook wrench now thanks to Robmacca

Cheers,
Angus


Put a rag over the shaft (if you need to save it for some reason) and put a pair of Stilsons on the course spline, this will hold it.

[carpdvl]

Alrighty then

Follow up for those who stumble upon this and want some additional info.

As expected, the gearbox had dumped it's oil due to seals on the Ashcroft mt82 adaptor. It's a beautiful piece of kit but I worry a bit that it's not potentially more risky than the genuine shaft... If the genuine shaft fails you lose drive (which may be a drama out bush) but with the Ashcroft shaft, if the seal fails and dumps the gearbox oil, (and you don't notice) to me it seems a bigger risk re cost and potential danger with the potential of the gearbox blowing up... Anyhow I've gone with a LOF replacement shaft which is how they should have been from the get to imo!

I'll stick to tricks or issues I ran into as its all pretty simple to get the transfer case off and well documented in other threads

First off I'd suggest taking stuff apart for access as much as possible. I took the exhaust out but not the cubby and I'm sure would be easier with additional access from the top

Second - as Robmacca mentioned above - the Ashcroft oil case (blue bit) was super tight and had me concerned I'd have to grind it off. Taking off the housing in between the TC and gearbox was the only way to do this sans the actual Ashcroft tool and using a C spanner with an extension on the handle. Stilsons, as mentioned by Dazza above, was the only way to hold the shaft from rotating (even in 6th) and managed to cop them to the face when they fell off the shaft while lying underneath which was no fun so be careful!

Thirdly - the bolt at the back of the gearbox shaft can be super tight. I used the plank of wood with a bolt in it in the shaft cup (third pic) to hold the shaft still but still just lifted the car up with the breaker bar and didn't undo the bolt. Also snapped the 2x4. Resorted to a strong impact gun which zipped it right off - but wasn't my first preference with the impact going into the gearbox...

Fourthly, this should go without saying - but make sure you have a good set of tools with extensions and angles etc as some of the bolts are very awkward to get at

Had a slight issue with the replacement (LOF Extremespec mt82 shaft) but true to form, Luke from LOF was absolutely fantastic so all sorted.

Also decided to fit a slick shift while had the gearsticks out and the mods Dazza mentioned above re the shift links also.

Thankfully TC work done a few years back at Davis PL has held really well with no leaks or issues as per the intermediate shaft.

Hopefully that helps some people down the line!

Thanks all for the help
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221003/2da52b35c41ae3935279d9b5244a1d23.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221003/5172573516b13ec7d26853251f66fa33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221003/4ac6197c8f08a7f7c0287ed2043dc9a5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221003/4f2dadccc277f397d6e986a71f33d97d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221003/31c0c5d1de3745514c319914e8bb9b3a.jpg