P1247 and restricted performance - advice please.

[Jpdv]

Hi folks. Came back to the airport after 3 days away last night. Car had got me there fine, left parked up under cover. Got in to drive home, as I left the airport, up popped 'Restricted Performance'...

I drove home slowly (about 15 kms) playing with the GAP IID and clearing faults. It would clear, but came back as soon as I put any load on the vehicle (hills, acceleration etc). The only fault code coming up is P1247-OO - Turbocharger boost pressure low (27).

There's no sign of oil leaking in any quantity under the car after standing overnight, and the oil level is still reading full. No hissing noises, no obvious split hoses that I can see. However, when I took the acoustic cover off to see if I was looking forward to some 'new inlet manifold fun', I found the following:
firstly, there's plainly oily fluid leaking from somewhere: here's the inside of the acoustic cover (and I've not noticed this on previous times I've removed it...)
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This got me focused on this area:
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It's on the offside (LHS as you look from the front of the car), in the area where the plastic pipe goes into the intake manifold - anyone have any comments on what this is likely to be before I start deciding whether it's a simple change of tubing or an expensive trip to an independent? (other side, by comparison, is clean as a whistle - you can see this in the photos). It looks to me to be something to do with this junction, rather than an actual split in the manifold, but I'd really welcome comments. The muck is concentrated in this area, some pooling on top of the electronic 'thing' on the top, and some down out of sight in the photos, running down around the inlet pipe thing. Could it be a throttle body seal?
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Grateful for all thoughts.

[DazzaTD5]

my guess off the cuff...

*yes it looks like the o-ring on the intake Y piece is leaking, generally not as bad as yours so maybe the o-ring has split.
*split top turbo hose (2.7 or 3.0)
*split inlet manifold (but your engine cover looks clean)
*turbo boost solenoid hose leak (front right of engine, when standing in front of it) 2 solenoids on top of the front plastic timing cover, look for any split hoses or hoses that have gone squishy and popped off.
*more small hoses, go left towards the centre of the engine under and just left of the top coolant pipe there are more rubber hoses, again look for split or squishy ones.
*follow all the plastic hoses that run over the Y intake and at the back on the drivers side there are more small rubber hoses, again look for a split one or i think there is a plastic T piece that I have had split.

[DiscoJeffster]

By that picture you’ve got a split throttle body. The plastic splits between where the y is glued to the throttle main section. I’ve had this happen.

Pull it out and confirm it first before you purchase one

[DiscoJeffster]

By that picture you’ve got a split throttle body. The plastic splits between where the y is glued to the throttle main section. I’ve had this happen.

Pull it out and confirm it first before you purchase one

Sorry no. Second picture looks like the o-ring has failed on the end of the throttle body.

[Jpdv]

my guess off the cuff...

*yes it looks like the o-ring on the intake Y piece is leaking, generally not as bad as yours so maybe the o-ring has split.
*split top turbo hose (2.7 or 3.0)
*split inlet manifold (but your engine cover looks clean)
*turbo boost solenoid hose leak (front right of engine, when standing in front of it) 2 solenoids on top of the front plastic timing cover, look for any split hoses or hoses that have gone squishy and popped off.
*more small hoses, go left towards the centre of the engine under and just left of the top coolant pipe there are more rubber hoses, again look for split or squishy ones.
*follow all the plastic hoses that run over the Y intake and at the back on the drivers side there are more small rubber hoses, again look for a split one or i think there is a plastic T piece that I have had split.

Thanks Dazza: I'll have a look at all the suggested hoses and report back for everyone's benefit. Agree - the engine cover and a superficial look at where the muck is 'tends' to steer me away from a split manifold...

[Jpdv]

Sorry no. Second picture looks like the o-ring has failed on the end of the throttle body.


Cheers mate - will have a dig around - is the work needed to confirm or deny the split o-ring something relatively easy as a DIY mechanic? I'm confident with things mechanical, but can't find any youtube vids to walk me through before I have a go... Presumably from the comments it's going to be taking the throttle body off and checking everything?

[DiscoJeffster]

Cheers mate - will have a dig around - is the work needed to confirm or deny the split o-ring something relatively easy as a DIY mechanic? I'm confident with things mechanical, but can't find any youtube vids to walk me through before I have a go... Presumably from the comments it's going to be taking the throttle body off and checking everything?

Intercooler hose off the front section. 10mm bolt that hold the front piece (intake duct) in place. Remove plugs etc. Then pull up the metal clip to take that off. Another 10mm on the top of the throttle body keeps that in place. A few more connectors then I think it’ll just come out with a wiggle. Get three new o-rings.
Check if there Y is firmly attached to the main section of the throttle body.


Part numbers

1316152 - throttle body outlet x 2

LR008353 - throttle body inlet x 1

[discorevy]

(front right of engine, when standing in front of it)

What's all this ? Front right of engine when standing in front of it, looking back towards the back of the car, standing the right way up, on both legs with both eyes open , hands by sides, blah blah!

C'mon Dazza, they need to learn.....Front left of engine.

[shack]

What's all this ? Front right of engine when standing in front of it, looking back towards the back of the car, standing the right way up, on both legs with both eyes open , hands by sides, blah blah!

C'mon Dazza, they need to learn.....Front left of engine.But is that front left when facing perpendicular to the inmost side of the leak, or underneath?

If only there were rules governing left and right...

[Jpdv]

If only there were rules governing left and right...

Well now, from my other passion, there are: Port and Starboard are unarguable, for that very reason. Or if you don't like the Navy, just go for the Army system of establishing a convention and sticking to it - so all rivers have a left and a right bank, which follows from assuming you are flowing to the sea with the current...

So all car 'left' and 'right' should be from the rear. [smilebigeye]

[BradC]

So all car 'left' and 'right' should be from the rear. [smilebigeye]

Yes, but is that "left" or "the other left" ?

[discorevy]

Well now, from my other passion, there are: Port and Starboard are unarguable, for that very reason. Or if you don't like the Navy, just go for the Army system of establishing a convention and sticking to it - so all rivers have a left and a right bank, which follows from assuming you are flowing to the sea with the current...

So all car 'left' and 'right' should be from the rear. [smilebigeye]

You are correct, "all car left and right" is facing forward when in the drivers seat.

Maybe I'm getting a bit old school but every mechanical workshop I've been in and nearly all spare parts companies I've dealt with know that instinctively.

But who knows? maybe in the new precious Australia, left no longer wants to be "pigeonholed" and wants to identify with being "right".[tonguewink]

obviously not referring to you Dazza[bigsmile]




Yes, but is that "left" or "the other left" ?

in this case, 1st "left" is right[smilebigeye]

[DiscoJeffster]

I like to think of left and right like as if I put reins on my engine and rode it, straddling the gearbox [emoji2369][emoji1787]

[DazzaTD5]

if people can't understand my simple instructions be they technically right or wrong, they should not open the bonnet.

[Jpdv]

Well, well, well.... Lucky, lucky, lucky.

Managed to get it into MR Automotive at short notice - lucky.
The original suspicion was close: it was actually the throttle body that had cracked at the y junction.
MR had one in stock - lucky.
The mechanic dropped the retaining bolt thingy on removing the old one - very, very lucky. Because this meant he used a magnet to try and find it. However, the magnet pulled this out from the skid plate:

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That, for those of you not immediately spotting it, is the primary turbo actuator rod/linkage. Which had fallen off, and was resting on the bash plate. His view is that this meant that the turbo had over-pressured and split the throttle body. Putting a new throttle on (at around $1300 for parts) and driving away would probably have blown that one too...

All sorted, back on the road. Kudos to MR for a professional and fairly costed job at short notice.

[DiscoJeffster]

Glad to hear it’s sorted and I’m chuffed it was what I originally suggested from a diagnostic point of view. I don’t subscribe to the over boost view for it failing. They’re just another piece of plastic rubbish.

Good to hear it’s sorted

[Eric SDV6SE]

Glad to hear it’s sorted and I’m chuffed it was what I originally suggested from a diagnostic point of view. I don’t subscribe to the over boost view for it failing. They’re just another piece of plastic rubbish.

Good to hear it’s sorted

+1 on that and I'm with DJ, the MAP would have triggered a RPE and the integral waste gate prevents overboost in any case. Just a cheap design option by JLR.

[f7ancis]

This was an extremely useful and informative thread. Thanks a lot.
My own P1247-00 and also P006A-00 was due to an incorrectly seated vacuum solenoid electrical connector.
They seem like they are seated but with another 1mm to go.

So although my own error after reassembling after a replaced split inlet manifold, the walk through of this problem from the OP, et al, gave me the clues I needed.
Thanks again to all contributors.