Ground points for charging / jump starting

[Parso]

Hey team. I've had a good google/forum search but for the life of me I can't find a clear answer even though I know it's probably obvious.

This morning in the cold my D3 wouldn't turn over. Battery around 5 years old probably on the way out. I've gone and got a battery charger but for the life of me I can't find a good point I'd like to charge / jump start off.

Can someone please send through a photo of where they connect their black leads to?

P. S. I'm running a traxide system and my old man was telling me to just use jumper cables on the auxiliary battery. This is dangerous right?

[John_D4]

Is there a reason why you can’t connect your cables up to the red and black on your main battery?

[loanrangie]

Charge the battery off the terminals, when jumping earth off the body/chassis - there are 2-3 earth studs to the right of the battery compartment on the inner guard.
I have charged off the aux battery before without issue but now use the anderson plug i fitted on the rear bar.

[John_D4]

Charge the battery off the terminals, when jumping earth off the body/chassis - there are 2-3 earth studs to the right of the battery compartment on the inner guard.

Why not jump it from the terminals also?

[Parso]

Charge the battery off the terminals, when jumping earth off the body/chassis - there are 2-3 earth studs to the right of the battery compartment on the inner guard.
I have charged off the aux battery before without issue but now use the anderson plug i fitted on the rear bar.These ones? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230621/a86e67464d01a7dd958980117ab96ad4.jpg

[Parso]

Is there a reason why you can’t connect your cables up to the red and black on your main battery?I've always been told you risk the battery exploding. This seems to be the consensus online

[loanrangie]

These ones? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230621/a86e67464d01a7dd958980117ab96ad4.jpg

That's the ones.

[loanrangie]

Why not jump it from the terminals also?

The inrush of current can fry the electric modules, this is true of all EFI/modern vehicles.

[scarry]

Has the vehicle got a handbook,if so have a read,or someone else may have the book.

If not,charge off terminals,to jump start use positive and a good earth for the negative.

[Parso]

Has the vehicle got a handbook,if so have a read,or someone else may have the book.

If not,charge off terminals,to jump start use positive and a good earth for the negative.That's the question Scarry. Where is the good earth? Book doesn't say

[BradC]

The inrush of current can fry the electric modules, this is true of all EFI/modern vehicles.

There would be negligible difference in any "inrush of current" between using the battery terminals and using an earth point on the chassis.

The whole "use the chassis" thing comes from the last clamp connected and first clamp disconnected are the ones with greatest potential to cause a spark, so keeping them away from a battery that may be gassing is "a good idea" (tm). Having witnessed a battery that went pop, I can concur with that

That's all it's about.

[gavinwibrow]

There would be negligible difference in any "inrush of current" between using the battery terminals and using an earth point on the chassis.

The whole "use the chassis" thing comes from the last clamp connected and first clamp disconnected are the ones with greatest potential to cause a spark, so keeping them away from a battery that may be gassing is "a good idea" (tm). Having witnessed a battery that went pop, I can concur with that

That's all it's about.



So can sealed batteries still "gas"?

[BradC]

So can sealed batteries still "gas"?

Absolutely.

So the MF88H "maintenance free" battery in my car has a complex venting system that allows it to breathe whilst minimising water loss.
A true "sealed" battery still has pressure release vents to let it "fart" if it's gassing severely. They are generally a rubber nipple over a spiggot on each cell held under a welded plastic cover. If it generates gas faster than it can recombine it, it'll let it out.

[DiscoJeffster]

Having blown up a large car battery in my face, I can recommend against it. It sends out a lot of acid that ruins clothes and paintwork. Also, you won’t be hearing much for the following 30 minutes.

Yes I agree, the connecting earth apart from the battery is all about avoiding gas that detonates it.

[gavinwibrow]

Having blown up a large car battery in my face, I can recommend against it. It sends out a lot of acid that ruins clothes and paintwork. Also, you won’t be hearing much for the following 30 minutes.

Yes I agree, the connecting earth apart from the battery is all about avoiding gas that detonates it.



Do for ding a lings like me with a second under-bonnet battery (Traxide system) those adjacent identified earth points on the inside of the front left wheel arch are probably of limited benefit?

[BradC]

Frankly anywhere away from the battery is ok. On other engines I've used thermostat housings, head bolts, lifting eyes. Pretty much any chunk of metal that's part of the donk, chassis or body is ok. On the D3 I've used the bracket that holds the fuel burning heater a couple of times.

Heck if your leads are long enough, you could get a decent clamp on one of the belly pan fixings. They're direct to chassis.

[SeanC]

These ones? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230621/a86e67464d01a7dd958980117ab96ad4.jpg

I have attached this to the earth point for easy connection of the jumper lead.
.185874

[Tombie]

Back on track - you CHARGE batt positive and earth point so the BMS keeps track of the charge.

[AK83]

I was always under the impression that for jump starting reason you earth at an earth point on the engine to eliminate the probability that the battery could absorb the jumping battery's 'angry pixies'.
That is, if earthed on the engine, more of the jump batteries power is more likely to get to the starter, where you want the battery power to go.

I've seen this myself many times, last time on a Ranger, where the young couple hailed me down on a main street. Was hard to get to them without partially blocking the road, so I gave the young fella the leads and I had to double park. to get them going and then his girlfriend would remove the leads of my battery and I'd move out the way. He put the leads on the battery, but his battery was completely dead and his wouldn't crank(and I have dual batts on the D1). With my D1 now blocking the road, I had to get out and see what he did, and moved lead to engine block and bam!
Very awkward situation.

I then explained to him to always earth on the engine for this reason ... and their first stop is directly to a battery place don't turn off the vehicle ... obviously battery totally stuffed.

[RANDLOVER]

I was always under the impression that for jump starting reason you earth at an earth point on the engine to eliminate the probability that the battery could absorb the jumping battery's 'angry pixies'.
That is, if earthed on the engine, more of the jump batteries power is more likely to get to the starter, where you want the battery power to go.

I've seen this myself many times, last time on a Ranger, where the young couple hailed me down on a main street. Was hard to get to them without partially blocking the road, so I gave the young fella the leads and I had to double park. to get them going and then his girlfriend would remove the leads of my battery and I'd move out the way. He put the leads on the battery, but his battery was completely dead and his wouldn't crank(and I have dual batts on the D1). With my D1 now blocking the road, I had to get out and see what he did, and moved lead to engine block and bam!
Very awkward situation.

I then explained to him to always earth on the engine for this reason ... and their first stop is directly to a battery place don't turn off the vehicle ... obviously battery totally stuffed.

If you are worried about "angry pixies" get surge protected leads.