Nanocom advice

[Epic_Dragon]

Hello folks :) hope everyone is good, I am seeking nanocom advice. Am about to embark on using it to bleed the abs system (had brake master cylinder fail, it was replaced and now brakes are still not at all good. Mechanics did the replacement and test drove but the brakes are going to floor. Wanting to fix myself but not sure the nanocom proceedure on bleeding them and abs.
Thankyou in advance :)

[V8Ian]

Any help?

Nanocom Bleed Functions - YouTube (https://youtu.be/oOfoYn6TaCU'si=JSwd2sMinDL-hbSR)

[AK83]

Yeah, I did that too in the video, but what it doesn't tell you is to actually physically bleed the brakes. That is, to actually release the air out of the calipers too.

First I did the one procedure as per the video, then did it all again whilst opening the bleed nipples on each caliper too.
Doing it on your own tho, you need 'assistance' so I used the hose to bottle method.

Each caliper separately, set up a small bottle with some fluid in it. Length of hose from bleed nipple to bottle and hose just inside the fluid in the bottle too.

Search the net for howtos on using the bottle method for bleeding brakes, or you can purchase cheapish kits to do it.

[Tins]

Arthur is correct. All of those vids show how to operate the nanocom, but not what to do on the car.

This vid uses the Lynx diagnosis rather than the nanocom, but it might give you the idea.


https://youtu.be/D5zvN8YSk9o'si=YShbPUnKbRXBbQ50

[Epic_Dragon]

I was trying to find this diagnostic to buy after seeing this but can't find it anywhere [emoji28] this seemed really easy to follow
Arthur is correct. All of those vids show how to operate the nanocom, but not what to do on the car.

This vid uses the Lynx diagnosis rather than the nanocom, but it might give you the idea.


https://youtu.be/D5zvN8YSk9o'si=YShbPUnKbRXBbQ50

[Tins]

I was trying to find this diagnostic to buy after seeing this but can't find it anywhere [emoji28] this seemed really easy to follow

The nanocom does the same thing, just in it's usual unique way. I showed you that so you would see the process for on the car, cos I can't find a tute for doing it with the nano.

[Tins]

However, you can get Lynx from Britpart I believe. Lynx Diagnostics (https://www.lynx-diagnostics.com/)

Personally I'd stick with the Nanocom.

[AK83]

I thought that the 'bleed' process was self fulfilling. Took me a while to work it out, but it's easy.

I did the first two options to try to 'purge' the fluid first, thinking this may be required. Didn't matter if it was or not, didn't hurt.

Then the next bit was(I had all four wheels off, but do it as you prefer) .. nanocom near the wheel as best as could be done(ie. either front pass seat, or drivers seat).

Small tube from bleed nipple to bottle with a bit of fluid in it, to keep the end of the tube submerged in fluid, so no air could come back up the line.
Then undo the nipple at the brake caliper that you're doing, go to nanocom and hit the bleed for that wheel.
Really easy as pie(once you know what supposed to do).

I think(can't really remember) I may have done each caliper twice, maybe three times to be sure to be sure, but with clear tube you can easily see no air coming.

I seriously thought that doing the bleed did the bleed all on it's own, and you just used technology to do it, instead of 'gorilla power'.

[Epic_Dragon]

Thankyou :) so you did no manual brake pumping during this? Great for me as that is hard now using an arm haha. Going to try bleed it on Saturday [emoji41]
I thought that the 'bleed' process was self fulfilling. Took me a while to work it out, but it's easy.

I did the first two options to try to 'purge' the fluid first, thinking this may be required. Didn't matter if it was or not, didn't hurt.

Then the next bit was(I had all four wheels off, but do it as you prefer) .. nanocom near the wheel as best as could be done(ie. either front pass seat, or drivers seat).

Small tube from bleed nipple to bottle with a bit of fluid in it, to keep the end of the tube submerged in fluid, so no air could come back up the line.
Then undo the nipple at the brake caliper that you're doing, go to nanocom and hit the bleed for that wheel.
Really easy as pie(once you know what supposed to do).

I think(can't really remember) I may have done each caliper twice, maybe three times to be sure to be sure, but with clear tube you can easily see no air coming.

I seriously thought that doing the bleed did the bleed all on it's own, and you just used technology to do it, instead of 'gorilla power'.

[Tins]

Thankyou :) so you did no manual brake pumping during this? Great for me as that is hard now using an arm haha. Going to try bleed it on Saturday [emoji41]

That's the point. Power bleeding does it for you. Imperative you keep the res topped up.

[Epic_Dragon]

Awesome i thought so but have only ever done the pedal pumping with all the cars so this I'm wowdoes it work haha[emoji108][emoji108][emoji108]
That's the point. Power bleeding does it for you. Imperative you keep the res topped up.

[Epic_Dragon]

Well, that bleed procedure was absolutely amazing!!! Nanocom is awesome [emoji108]

[Tins]

Well, that bleed procedure was absolutely amazing!!! Nanocom is awesome [emoji108]

Yep. So is the car, L.

[Epic_Dragon]

That it is [emoji108][emoji108]
Yep. So is the car, L.

[Epic_Dragon]

Just reviving this as having some brake troubles,

After this awesome brake bleed procedure, and the new master cylinder, had the most incredible brakes. After my car sat for the couple of months having the timing gear fixed, the brakes have been really soft. They stop the car, and will even engage abs as I foubd when a kangaroo jumped out infront of me the other week. Have spent last few days finally trying to re bleed, manual bleeds, power bleeds, following above. I have a nice pedal when car is off but as soon as its running, the pedal just goes almost to the floor. I can pump it and it feels normal for a second but then will sink.
Trying to fix it asap as well good brakes are important for anyone but driving with arms, I need them to be amazing [emoji28] above average even. They stop but I'm pushing hand controls into my leg as the pedal sinks.
Is this master cylinder faulty? I believe it's a Britpart one, and have heard they aren't great? But I can't find anything else. Only got it I think August/September and it was brand new.
The weird T piece on the brake booster vacuum line has nothing on it and I don't know if it's meant to [emoji28]

[V8Ian]

The booster is working, proven by the pedal sinking when you start the engine.
Sounds like the master cylinder is dodgy, does the fluid level drop? Is there any evidence of brake fluid under the master cylinder, either inside the car or in the engine bay?

[Epic_Dragon]

No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full. Wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere [emoji848] or a dodgy master cylinder. Mine would be warranty I think at least

[Tins]

No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full.

In that case it's another vote for a dodgy M/C. if you pull it and there's fluid at the back it pays to check if the fluid has leaked back into the booster. Not the end of the world, and prolly unlikely if the level hasn't dropped.

[FNQLR]

No fluid leaks, fluid levels stay full. Wonder if air is leaking in from somewhere [emoji848] or a dodgy master cylinder. Mine would be warranty I think at least


If you're driving an original series 2 disco try updating to the 2A front callipers - they are a lot smaller than the early ones.

This results in less initial fluid displacement when the brakes are pressed - this for some reason stops the pedal from sinking.

It's not a faulty master issue, rather some weird design flaw with the whole setup (IMO)

- I've yet to try it on mine, but have tested the principle by blocking the MC ports - should work.
not sure if LR downgraded the brakes on the update model for this reason?

[Epic_Dragon]

Mine is the original 2. I'll go compsre with dads 2a, I'm curious now with the difference [emoji28]
Mine have always been really good, until this new master cylinder. Even now some days they are great then others, I push brake into my leg (hand controls) car does always stop still.
I need to properly fix it as it's injuring my shoulder. I'll check this option out thankyou :)
If you're driving an original series 2 disco try updating to the 2A front callipers - they are a lot smaller than the early ones.

This results in less initial fluid displacement when the brakes are pressed - this for some reason stops the pedal from sinking.

It's not a faulty master issue, rather some weird design flaw with the whole setup (IMO)

- I've yet to try it on mine, but have tested the principle by blocking the MC ports - should work.
not sure if LR downgraded the brakes on the update model for this reason?