Crank Angle Sensor

[d2dave]

Mine still has the original crank angle sensor and has done 240,000 Kays.

I am doing a double Simpson Desert crossing next month, so I reckon a CAS change would be a good idea.

I priced a genuine one today. This is out of the question as I have sold all my children and only have one kidney left to sell.

These sort of thing aftermarket, being very cheap, worry me.

Any advice on what to get. I am looking at a brand called Intermotor which the seller says is OEM quality.

However, most sellers will say anything to get your business.

[Graeme]

My only recollection of failing TD5 crank position sensors weren't the sensor at all, just the usual oil in ecu connector issue.

[Outback 1]

Mine still has the original crank angle sensor and has done 240,000 Kays.

I am doing a double Simpson Desert crossing next month, so I reckon a CAS change would be a good idea.

I priced a genuine one today. This is out of the question as I have sold all my children and only have one kidney left to sell.

These sort of thing aftermarket, being very cheap, worry me.

Any advice on what to get. I am looking at a brand called Intermotor which the seller says is OEM quality.

However, most sellers will say anything to get your business.Dave mine had done 400000 ks still on the original cas and I just used to carry a second hand one with me just in case

[AK83]

.....

These sort of thing aftermarket, being very cheap, worry me.

Any advice on what to get. I am looking at a brand called Intermotor which the seller says is OEM quality.

....

I've had a few Intermotor bits and pieces over the years. IIRC mainly on my old Rover cars.

My thinking on this topic would along the lines of:

I've been reading and watching a fair amount of info re Landrover/TD5/Tdi. Patterns form when it comes to parts replacement.
eg. TD5 exhaust manifolds, I put up with a broken stud, slight leak for a while on the brothers TD5 whilst I had it. Brother wanted to get a $200 stainless manifold off ebay. My 'Spidey Senses' smelled something off. Having read a bit about them, it was obvious that pretty much 100% failed at some point. Same with Engine mounts .. read the remarks where many cheaped out and they failed, so incurring the extra cost of doing it again.

One thing that doesn't seem to a problem tho is the commonly bought CPS. I strongly doubt that all those that I've read about have gone with a $600-700 genuine LR boxed unit. They'd have gone with the more sensible $60-$80 version(depending on where it was sourced). Can't recall any complaints that these sensibly priced CPS units are failing en masse

I'd just go with the one you get, the two common makes seem to be Intermotor and Delphi.

Also, if it were me doing the trip, I'd be keeping it as a spare in the spares/parts/tools kit, not changing it for the sake of it. Familiarise yourself with how to change it. As long as you have a nanocom(or Hawkeye) to diagnose it's death(if it does), you shouldn't have to worry.

[sierrafery]

The real OEM is Lucas SEB355 that's for sure. That "OEM" suffix means almost nothing these days cos many suppliers are using it wrong especially that "oem quality" which IMO is a scam, it appears for most of the various engine parts sold on aliexpress, i'd not care if it was about a bush or bearing or something similar but when it comes to a vital sensor it's a different story

[FNQLR]

I've had a few Intermotor bits and pieces over the years. IIRC mainly on my old Rover cars.

My thinking on this topic would along the lines of:

I've been reading and watching a fair amount of info re Landrover/TD5/Tdi. Patterns form when it comes to parts replacement.
eg. TD5 exhaust manifolds, I put up with a broken stud, slight leak for a while on the brothers TD5 whilst I had it. Brother wanted to get a $200 stainless manifold off ebay. My 'Spidey Senses' smelled something off. Having read a bit about them, it was obvious that pretty much 100% failed at some point. Same with Engine mounts .. read the remarks where many cheaped out and they failed, so incurring the extra cost of doing it again.

One thing that doesn't seem to a problem tho is the commonly bought CPS. I strongly doubt that all those that I've read about have gone with a $600-700 genuine LR boxed unit. They'd have gone with the more sensible $60-$80 version(depending on where it was sourced). Can't recall any complaints that these sensibly priced CPS units are failing en masse

I'd just go with the one you get, the two common makes seem to be Intermotor and Delphi.

Also, if it were me doing the trip, I'd be keeping it as a spare in the spares/parts/tools kit, not changing it for the sake of it. Familiarise yourself with how to change it. As long as you have a nanocom(or Hawkeye) to diagnose it's death(if it does), you shouldn't have to worry.

They're pretty much just a coil of wire with a magnet down the guts of it.
It "should" be the most reliable sensor on the D2. <- just jinxed myself

even so, I carry a spare as it's pretty much the only sensor that will leave you stranded ? (TPS maybe as well)

[Tins]

I got one from a Jag wrecker. Same thing. It’s just a Hall effect sensor. I would definitely pay attention to the wiring going to it though. Mine got brittle and broke, causing a failure to proceed.
A second hand one would be good to have in your spares box though. No, I don’t remember what model Jag. Cost me $35 I think. Don’t ask me why I needed it

[Graeme]

it's pretty much the only sensor that will leave you stranded ? (TPS maybe as well)
I drove my manual TD5 through stop-start Canberra afternoon peak hour traffic with a dead TPS, working up speed by idling though the gears until 40 kph when CC was used to go faster. Not towing anything though.

[FNQLR]

I drove my manual TD5 through stop-start Canberra afternoon peak hour traffic with a dead TPS, working up speed by idling though the gears until 40 kph when CC was used to go faster. Not towing anything though.

I'm so going to try this. probably not in peak hour traffic though :)

My CC kicks in at 20kph (Shack tune)

[admiralranga]

I'd be checking/replacing the wiring over the sensor. Like I'm sure they fail occasionally but mostly it's the brittle AF wires snapping.

[Tins]

I'd be checking/replacing the wiring over the sensor. Like I'm sure they fail occasionally but mostly it's the brittle AF wires snapping.

Wot mine did. On the way to a roadworthy check appointment, of course. Right at the plug. Grrr. Rewiring that whole area, starter exciter wire, oil pressure switch wire which passes around the back of the engine. They're all brittle with age and oil and I guess heat.

[Tins]

I have a spare you can borrow Dave. Tempting fate...

190714

[d2dave]

I have a spare you can borrow Dave. Tempting fate...

190714

Thanks for the offer, but it would cost me more to come and get than to buy a new one..
I have ordered a new one. Got a Lucas one coming.