8 year service

[dirvine]

Had my car serviced yesterday. $6100 later all fixed. Belts, all oils (except auto) front and rear bushes, new fluids. Plus replacement of known weak parts that are best to do while everything is accessable. What has got me tossed is the report that came back from the wheel alignment shop. There seems to be big discrepancies (or is it my imagination) between left and right on all but one alignment result after THEY have adjusted the vehicle. Figures are:

Front Wheels
Toe: .2mm (L) .4mm(R) Total .6mm.
Camber: -1.31 degrees(L) -.44 degrees (R)
Caster: 3.93 degrees (L) 4.20 degrees (R)

Rear Wheels
Toe: 1.6mm (L) 1.5mm (R) 3.1 total
Camber: -.14 degrees (L) .37 degrees (R)

Is it OK there is a difference? If so are mine acceptable or should I query them? especially the last one. One is negative the other positive!!!

Thanks

[Russrobe]

They should have given you a print out with the allowed tolerances supplied by Land Rover. I just had mine done today. If it's within those tolerances, drives fine, and tyres wearing nicely then you're good. Looks to me like your rears are out of tolerance so you could argue that.

285/60R18s don't rub with the specs attached. To answer your question more directly though, I'd find another alignment shop, most of them just adjust the toe and leave the rest. Keep in mind the adjusters (for all accept toe) are just a washer welded on an offset that's spun to move the control arm. When it's maxed out (like my RF) there's nothing more you can do.

[dirvine]

They should have given you a print out with the allowed tolerances supplied by Land Rover. I just had mine done today. If it's within those tolerances, drives fine, and tyres wearing nicely then you're good. Looks to me like your rears are out of tolerance so you could argue that.

285/60R18s don't rub with the specs attached. To answer your question more directly though, I'd find another alignment shop, most of them just adjust the toe and leave the rest. Keep in mind the adjusters (for all accept toe) are just a washer welded on an offset that's spun to move the control arm. When it's maxed out (like my RF) there's nothing more you can do.

I have a similar report as you have ie a before and after. Just like youre it does not show what the allowed tollerences are by Land Rover are. I have looked up the specs on the LR Service Book, but not all the specs are not done with the same measurements. I am no maths expert so I dont know how significant a varaiance is.

For example Front camber as per specs is -.5 degrees + or - .75 degrees. So that means the range is -1.25 to +.25 degrees. Mine as reported AFTER they adjusted was -1.31 (LHS) and -.44 (RHS). So By this it means the RHS is ok but LHS is out. Should I take car back? Is the amount of difference between LR Spec tollerences worth worrying about or not? Maybe the weight of my car on either side, is being taken into consideration. Is it because I have bigger tyres than OEM? I dont know I am not an expert hence my question to those who are more knowledgable than me.

I am not going to take it to another place if it is not within tollerence. Why should I? They should fix it if its so wrong and I am happy to take it back if it is so wrong.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Did you or they put the car in TTM during alignment? If not, it constantly self levels when on the alignment hoist. Before my last alignment on the D4, I checked with the boys doing the job, and these were 'experienced' in Disco's with EAS and DSC. However, when they told me, "Oh, we just leave the tailgate open to stop the car from adjusting" I had to set them straight and showed them the TTM and put my car in that mode before they adjusted the alignment, and this was after I had replaced upper and lower wishbones, all 4 air struts and wheel hub bearings at 220000km. Results were to spec and car drove like new.

To my mind, there should not be a marked difference between L and R, seems 'they' don't know what they're doing...

[veebs]

... Before my last alignment on the D4, I checked with the boys doing the job, and these were 'experienced' in Disco's with EAS and DSC. However, when they told me, "Oh, we just leave the tailgate open to stop the car from adjusting" I had to set them straight and showed them the TTM and put my car in that mode before they adjusted the alignment, and this was after I had replaced upper and lower wishbones, all 4 air struts and wheel hub bearings at 220000km. Results were to spec and car drove like new.

To my mind, there should not be a marked difference between L and R, seems 'they' don't know what they're doing...

Exactly my experience with tyre jocks - stick their chest out declaring expertise in all things, then hack something to get you out the door. I stand and watch them every time, and step in when needed.

That said, at my last alignment, the tie rods were all seized, requiring heat to be adjusted I'm told (was done after a LCA change, so I wasn't there). The car definitely isn't quite right, with the steering wheel is at a slight angle when driving straight. Sigh.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Bet they ****** the tie rods by turning the nuts the wrong way....supposed to clean the threads beforehand too, then had to use heat to get them undone...

[veebs]

Bet they f$%ked the tie rods by turning the nuts the wrong way....supposed to clean the threads beforehand too, then had to use heat to get them undone...

sure hope not - the indy is very well respected, though I know they outsource the alignment...