Hi - New Owner of a Series 1 - a 1952 80

[NobbyTD5]

Hi all
After much looking around at various Series 1, 2 and 2A's. but finally purchased a Series 1 in last few days
I think it is in reasonable condition and fairly original - it was running a few years back before it had a rest in the shed- will know soon enough.
I am a long term D2 TD5 owner (since 2008) - based in South Australia.

I am sure I will be on here asking for info and where to get things - quite soon!

I will post a few photo's this weekend - always looking for comments and guidance!

1952 Land Rover Series 1 ? RVs & Campers ? Williamstown, South Australia | Facebook Marketplace (https://www.facebook.com/share/hdofTb2uQ7zkmjzA/)

cheers

Nobby

[McBrain283]

Hey, looks really good. Same year as mine.

I was happy with the state of mine when I got it but this one looks better.

[NobbyTD5]

Hi and Thanks
Great - you might have a few thought/research on what bits are original - especially the bits currently missing like
seats,
soft top hood
air cleaner - precleaner/cyclone
I think it came with the/a suitable ventilator flap - but I need to make sure it matches/fits etc

cheers

Nobby




Hey, looks really good. Same year as mine.

I was happy with the state of mine when I got it but this one looks better.

[NobbyTD5]

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

[JDNSW]

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

It will have been positive earth new.

Connect a battery, with the larger clamp on the positive, ensuring nothing is on. Switch on headlights. The ammeter should now show discharge. If it shows charge, you have wrong polarity.

The only polarity sensitive wiring as sold is the ammeter, and this needs to be reversed connections if changing (and the battery momentarily shorted through the generator.

Warning. The usual reason for changing polarity is to connect negative earth equipment, such as radios or an alternator. These are likely to be destroyed if connected to the wrong polarity.

[NobbyTD5]

John
Thank you! That sounds like a simple test - it has no radio's etc nor an alternator
I will test it - with a battery that I have here

then...
I will then source a long term battery, clean the fuel tank (interesting looking sludge/syrup in there - but lucky it is galvanised and in fairly good shape), see if radiator/ holds water, oil seems fresh and in good condition - and see if it will start!

the journey begins ...

cheers

Nobby


It will have been positive earth new.

Connect a battery, with the larger clamp on the positive, ensuring nothing is on. Switch on headlights. The ammeter should now show discharge. If it shows charge, you have wrong polarity.

The only polarity sensitive wiring as sold is the ammeter, and this needs to be reversed connections if changing (and the battery momentarily shorted through the generator.

Warning. The usual reason for changing polarity is to connect negative earth equipment, such as radios or an alternator. These are likely to be destroyed if connected to the wrong polarity.

[NobbyTD5]

Hi all - some photo's of the new toy!
any comments welcome
cheers

Nobby


191541191542191543191544

[5380]

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

Nobby,
All Series 1,2 and some IIA were positive earth except for some special build army models etc. Positive earth works well as long as you don't want to run modern electronics. I like the nice paint patina on your new toy- don't paint it!
Also, dont try to start it until you drain the old oil (sludge!) and put some new mineral 20W/50 or Nulon X-Pro 25W/60 oil in it. It will run without the pre cleaner, but may be a tiny bit lean. They tend to run rich anyway due to wear and tear in the carbie and worn float valve etc, so don't panic. Set the timing at about 12 degrees and points at 0.014". If it still has the original Lucas DVXH4A distributor, you can buy good quality points, condenser and rotor from Heads Tractor Spares, (same as grey Fergie). Don't put one of those junk aftermarket carbs on it. Rebuild the orignal. Most S1s have aftermarket fuel pumps that are usually way too high in pressure, causing flooding and rich running. If has the original SU LP pump , the diaphragm will probably have gone hard by now, needing replacement. They run OK on 91 fuel with Flash Lube to protect the inlet valves, and seats. The exhaust valve seats have hardened inserts. I have a fairly original '53 model, which is nearly identical to yours, so Pm me if you get stuck, or need info.
Cheers, Mike (5380)

[5380]

Hi all - some photo's of the new toy!
any comments welcome
cheers

Nobby


191541191542191543191544


Nice buy!
It looks like it's been in dry storage and has not been altered too much at all, very,very, lucky!! Just needs some new seats and a few odds and ends to tidy it up. Very tidy under the bonnet. Looks like the correct Lucas DVXH4A dizzy, but with a Grey Fergie cap and later aluminium bodied coil and AM fuel pump. The dash looks OK, but the red and black accessory / trouble lamp sockets are missing. The only hard thing to find may be the missing conical pre cleaner, but someone may have a spare one in the shed. They were fitted up to the 1954 models as well.
I can probably help you with the accessory sockets and other small parts. I can also help with a pair of ST51 tailights with bar if you want to do a swap for the later 1954 no-bar lights fitted to yours. Charlesworth Mouldings in the UK do horn buttons etc. for you steering wheel switches. Be careful if you feel the urge to remove this switch, the clamp holding it in place is at the bottom of the steering box! The stator tube with wires runs all the way down through the hollow steering column to the above mentioned clamp at the bottom.
Take heaps of pictures and used labelled HD zip lock bags as you go. Saves a lot of head scratching later on! Try and save as many of the original BSF and BA fasteners as possible., they are god quality and hard to replace. If you PM me I can send some pics of mine if that helps determine what's right and wrong with your new toy. 5380

[NobbyTD5]

5380
Hi and thanks - yes it looked to be fairly original and in reasonable condition!
Big learning curve for me - mainly experienced in "more modern" early Holdens (EJ and HR) and of course a newer Disco 2 TD5 (that I trailered it home with)

Is the Grey Fergie distributor cap ok short term ?
I hope the fuel pump is not too high a pressure as well
I can source a replica air pre cleaner from the UK but would rather a period one - if someone has one
I also need a set of wiper motors and gear - missing when I bought it
I have the vent under windscreen ( I think that fits) - that was supplied separately by prior owner - might be missing a latch/adjustment on passenger site - would be great to get some photo's of an original set up to check
I plan to prep and paint the chassis in a rustproof paint but leave the body/panels fairly as is - I like the 72yo patina as well
lots to do - but first thing is to get it running - I dont think that will be too hard as it has compression and was running ok a few years back - but lets see.
Will buy a box of HD zip lock bags ...good idea
Will PM you as well
cheers

Nobby


Nice buy!
It looks like it's been in dry storage and has not been altered too much at all, very,very, lucky!! Just needs some new seats and a few odds and ends to tidy it up. Very tidy under the bonnet. Looks like the correct Lucas DVXH4A dizzy, but with a Grey Fergie cap and later aluminium bodied coil and AM fuel pump. The dash looks OK, but the red and black accessory / trouble lamp sockets are missing. The only hard thing to find may be the missing conical pre cleaner, but someone may have a spare one in the shed. They were fitted up to the 1954 models as well.
I can probably help you with the accessory sockets and other small parts. I can also help with a pair of ST51 tailights with bar if you want to do a swap for the later 1954 no-bar lights fitted to yours. Charlesworth Mouldings in the UK do horn buttons etc. for you steering wheel switches. Be careful if you feel the urge to remove this switch, the clamp holding it in place is at the bottom of the steering box! The stator tube with wires runs all the way down through the hollow steering column to the above mentioned clamp at the bottom.
Take heaps of pictures and used labelled HD zip lock bags as you go. Saves a lot of head scratching later on! Try and save as many of the original BSF and BA fasteners as possible., they are god quality and hard to replace. If you PM me I can send some pics of mine if that helps determine what's right and wrong with your new toy. 5380

[NobbyTD5]

Hi all
I can work out / understand what most things are on the new 52 80"

but can someone shed light on this bracket on the front grill area?

thanks !

Nobby


191568191569191570

[JDNSW]

I don't think I have ever seen something like that, but I suggest it could be a sort of socket fora board supported by the bumper, with a block on the bottom to stop it moving forward, and used either as a a seat, or perhaps as a work platform to be high enough to reach something, or used for a specific purpose such as cleaning fish.

But I am only guessing.

[NobbyTD5]

Hi all
While I am keen to keep it original and the aged 72 yr patina of the body intact
I am keen to start to repaint and protect the chassis

attached is a few photos - it is surface dust - not too bad.
Ideally I would remove body and repaint it all completely
how much work/time is it to remove or raise the body up enough?

otherwise I will section by section - sand back with a flap disc, use rust converter/remover, acid etch undercoat and then a rust preventative paint like Killrust etc


According to the 'LandRover Series One Club' The Knowledge - my chassis paint is Bronze Green HCC/LRC1 00428 2651 - I assume a satin finish would be best

Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated

Cheers Nobby!

[gromit]

Hi all
While I am keen to keep it original and the aged 72 yr patina of the body intact
I am keen to start to repaint and protect the chassis



I went though much the same thought pattern, even painted some areas as I worked on mine.
After taking it to Cooma for the 60th I decided against it.

If you're using it as a daily driver maybe but if it spends most time in the shed and only goes out on dry days it won't get any worse.

Lifting the body/bulkhead/wings etc. sounds easy but is quite involved, then you have to bolt it back together and get the door gaps right !

Over 12 years later the chassis on mine isn't any worse.
1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made.html)


Colin

[NobbyTD5]

Gromit
Thanks - I would like to do that - just ignore it
but I am based by the sea, we do get a bit of salt spray and we are allowed to drive on the beach here (I would never drive in the water!)
it is properly garaged - sealed roller door etc

so .. thanks worth me thinking about!

cheers

Nobby


I went though much the same thought pattern, even painted some areas as I worked on mine.
After taking it to Cooma for the 60th I decided against it.

If you're using it as a daily driver maybe but if it spends most time in the shed and only goes out on dry days it won't get any worse.

Lifting the body/bulkhead/wings etc. sounds easy but is quite involved, then you have to bolt it back together and get the door gaps right !

Over 12 years later the chassis on mine isn't any worse.
1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made) (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/159944-1956-series-1-pto-welder-home-made.html)


Colin

[McBrain283]

Depends how deep you want to go. I am just doing the same with mine. Based on your photos I think you may find there are some areas that are worse than first appear.

I completely removed all body parts in a few hours. There is actually not much to it, what slows it down is stuck bolts and how much you want to preserve them (I am trying to keep as much as possible).

With the body off it is much easier to see what you've got, clean it up, and repaint.

Are any of the outriggers rusted through?

[JDNSW]

Getting the body off is easy, especially with the early Series One, gets a bit more complicated later with more electrics etc.

However! Putting it back together is not quite as easy. The bolted body joints are invariably fitted with large washers and holes that are much bigger than the bolts, to allow for manufacturing tolerance in the panel size and shape and in the positioning of attachment points on the chassis. These can add up to substantial amounts, and when reassembling you need to ensure that slop is put in the right places, or you will find bits just don't fit! (And this can be exacerbated by chassis or panel damage in the last seventy plus years.)

In particular, if I remember correctly (someone will pop in I hope if I am wrong) the first bit to be attached to the chassis should be the tub, and at least some of these on early ones used more or less ad hoc packing to fit the attachments to the chassis. Note and preserve these when disassembling (there may be some elsewhere, but don't assume they are bodges made during repairs - they could be factory). This is followed by the firewall or bulkhead which must be adjusted so the doors fit.

[cjc_td5]

Getting the body off is easy, especially with the early Series One, gets a bit more complicated later with more electrics etc.

However! Putting it back together is not quite as easy. The bolted body joints are invariably fitted with large washers and holes that are much bigger than the bolts, to allow for manufacturing tolerance in the panel size and shape and in the positioning of attachment points on the chassis. These can add up to substantial amounts, and when reassembling you need to ensure that slop is put in the right places, or you will find bits just don't fit! (And this can be exacerbated by chassis or panel damage in the last seventy plus years.)

In particular, if I remember correctly (someone will pop in I hope if I am wrong) the first bit to be attached to the chassis should be the tub, and at least some of these on early ones used more or less ad hoc packing to fit the attachments to the chassis. Note and preserve these when disassembling (there may be some elsewhere, but don't assume they are bodges made during repairs - they could be factory). This is followed by the firewall or bulkhead which must be adjusted so the doors fit.John, you speak the truth. The tub is fixed to the chassis with next to no adjustment, so goes on first. Everything else comes afterwards, with adjustments to "try" to make everything line up....

[NobbyTD5]

Dear all
The Chassis seems alright looking from underneath - paint and surface rust but no deep rust oo perforations - I need to have a really good crawl around.
Sounds like taking off the Tub is fairly easy (noting/preserving the packing etc)and will give me more info on the overall chassis condition.
might start there!
Thanks for the guidance


John, you speak the truth. The tub is fixed to the chassis with next to no adjustment, so goes on first. Everything else comes afterwards, with adjustments to "try" to make everything line up....

[JDNSW]

Sounds like a good idea. Actually, you can access virtually all the chassis if you remove the tub, seat box, floor and transmission tunnel, and front mudguards, leaving the firewall, which is probably the most difficult and critical in adjustment. And the vehicle is still sort of driveable, unless you remove the radiator support and radiator as well. Note that the adjustment of the firewall includes the steering column and the bracket that holds the other side, so if you disturb these, note carefully where bits were adjusted.

[NobbyTD5]

John - thanks
I will start with the tub and then move forwards
It s a (steepish!) learning curve for me - I will learn on the tub!
sounds smart to leave the firewall etc alone !

appreciate all the comments

cheers
Nobby


Sounds like a good idea. Actually, you can access virtually all the chassis if you remove the tub, seat box, floor and transmission tunnel, and front mudguards, leaving the firewall, which is probably the most difficult and critical in adjustment. And the vehicle is still sort of driveable, unless you remove the radiator support and radiator as well. Note that the adjustment of the firewall includes the steering column and the bracket that holds the other side, so if you disturb these, note carefully where bits were adjusted.