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dirvine
9th November 2024, 03:01 PM
I recently changed my rear pads. In the process i destroyed the wear part that clips into the brack pad. Ok I thought I bought one of those leads ages ago, Removed the old one connected the new one but for the life of me I cannot get the electrical clip near the chasis rail to clip in place. it seems to not want to go all the way in. Now I presume because the front brakes were changed 6 month ago, that the light comming on is because I have a faulty connection. I am wondering if I stick some foil in the plug and short out the pins should that make the car think everything is ok? I dont care about any warning as I change my pads every 3 years as routine service. and there is still plenty of meat on them when I do. Thanks

shack
9th November 2024, 04:19 PM
I recently changed my rear pads. In the process i destroyed the wear part that clips into the brack pad. Ok I thought I bought one of those leads ages ago, Removed the old one connected the new one but for the life of me I cannot get the electrical clip near the chasis rail to clip in place. it seems to not want to go all the way in. Now I presume because the front brakes were changed 6 month ago, that the light comming on is because I have a faulty connection. I am wondering if I stick some foil in the plug and short out the pins should that make the car think everything is ok? I dont care about any warning as I change my pads every 3 years as routine service. and there is still plenty of meat on them when I do. ThanksJust bridge the wires however you like, it should do the trick.

DiscoJeffster
9th November 2024, 07:19 PM
Before I recently replaced my wear sensors I’d cut the cable and soldered it together, so yes, you can do that to make it go away

Odysseyman
14th November 2024, 07:12 AM
I had a similar problem not being able to get the connectors to mate correctly. Deep inside the female one is an o ring. Give it a spray with silicone or PTFE in that spot. Mine clicked together like magic.

dirvine
15th November 2024, 02:19 PM
I had a similar problem not being able to get the connectors to mate correctly. Deep inside the female one is an o ring. Give it a spray with silicone or PTFE in that spot. Mine clicked together like magic.
Worked a treat. Problem is the Warning has not gone away. Now need to look at front cable.

dirvine
18th November 2024, 03:57 PM
Further update

I shorted out the rear pad wires as i had the old cable. The lwarning light did not go out, I then started to look at the front. Even though I have not touched the front brakes for a while I decided to see if that was the problem So I shorted out the front wiring. And the warning light is still on. I have an IID tool. Can it tell me which brake pad is sending the warning. I am at loss to work out why the dash light still appears.


thanks

DiscoJeffster
18th November 2024, 06:19 PM
Further update

I shorted out the rear pad wires as i had the old cable. The lwarning light did not go out, I then started to look at the front. Even though I have not touched the front brakes for a while I decided to see if that was the problem So I shorted out the front wiring. And the warning light is still on. I have an IID tool. Can it tell me which brake pad is sending the warning. I am at loss to work out why the dash light still appears.


thanks

No it’s can’t.

BradC
18th November 2024, 07:14 PM
Further to that, the circuit is a a simple series circuit. One sensor is connected to ground, the other to the cluster and both together. There's no way of knowing where the fault lies using the IID.

Having said that, if you can get to the connectors just poke them with a volt meter. All 4 pins across both sensors should be at ground potential (or very close) provided both sensors are intact. Keep following the wiring until you find a positive voltage and you've located the fault.

Eric SDV6SE
18th November 2024, 10:06 PM
New wear sensor leads are not expensive, so without modifying the circuitry and causing other issuea (like warnimg lights that wont go out...), just treat them as a consumable as well and replace them.

I use a blast of compressed air and a bit of rubber grease on the connectors.