Original Stage 1

[Sam Ball]

Try again...

Thanks everyone for your advice over the last few months, I finally bought a car two weeks ago, a 1982 Stage 1.

For those that are interested I've included some photo's as apparently its pretty original - the only modification was the installation of a 3 speed auto which does make it easier to navigate the morning traffic.

The guy at Toorak Tractor said it even has the original emission control which he had'nt seen before because most of them have been removed long ago. He couldn't beleive the condition of the car, apparently the guy I bought it off, bought it off an old bloke in Gundagai that used to only take it out for his annual fishing trip once a year. The clock says 34,000 k's which Adrian reckkons is legit'.

It still has the original restrictor plates on the carby's, which I have been told would improve power if removed, but does this mean that you also have to increase the size of the manifold/extractors?

Adrian was very keen for me to garage it and keep it in original condition, if I was to take the roof off for Summer - this can be put back on easily cant' it?

Thanks again for all your advice, it's not an easy car to drive, the breaks are like using a leg press machine at the gym and the fuel ecconomy is **** house, but I love it - I can see why you're all so obsessed.

[Dinty]

G'day Sam Ball, nice looking original rig you have there, my son used to have a Series 3 Stage 1 with 3.9 Isuzu which he sold to a chap in Victoria, he is not using it but keeping it as a collectors item, it was also in very good condition for it's age (1981), anyway welcome to the fold and we all hope you enjoy driving it topless. Yes it is relativley easy to remove the hardtop but unless you can rig up pulley system to lift it off in one piece and store it hanging up in the roof of your garage you will need at least 3 other able bodied people to help as they are quite awkward, it's the glass that makes up most of the weight, anyway cheers Dennis:wasntme:

[Lucas]

G'day Sam.
Very clean looking original rig.
I have often wondered are there any restrictions with Vicroads for removing the roof ???

I still have the emissions cr*p in the engine bay of my s3 (1982) - 2 1/4, does anyone out there have a picture of what it should look like as I would like to have a clean up, or what year did the emissons stuff start getting fitted ?, would it still pass a road worthy with out it :)

[Sam Ball]

Thanks Dennis

I think you're saying that you take the roof and the side panels off in one hit - that would be simpler - I was thinking it was a 2 stage process, first the roof and second the side panels, but all at once would be simpler.

[JDNSW]

G'day Sam.
Very clean looking original rig.
I have often wondered are there any restrictions with Vicroads for removing the roof ???

I still have the emissions cr*p in the engine bay of my s3 (1982) - 2 1/4, does anyone out there have a picture of what it should look like as I would like to have a clean up, or what year did the emissons stuff start getting fitted ?, would it still pass a road worthy with out it :)

I don't have a picture of it for that year, but some emissions gear was fitted from mid - 2a production. As far as I can see from my S3 handbook (mine, 1981, is a diesel, so I can't look at it, but the owner's handbook covers all engines of course) it only comprises a positive crankcase ventilation system plus sealed adjustment on the idling speed and mixture. There are two systems described, apparently depending on which carburetter is fitted.

It is extremely unlikely that the emissions would be checked for a roadworthy although without the gear it would certainly fail if it was checked. It is also very unlikely that the examiner would be sufficiently well informed to realise it was missing. Note that if you remove the positive crankcase you should fit the pre-emissions system rather than leave no proper ventilation or to allow dust into the engine, particularly if the vehicle is used for short trips and in a cool damp climate.

John

[numpty]

Try again...

Thanks everyone for your advice over the last few months, I finally bought a car two weeks ago, a 1982 Stage 1.

It still has the original restrictor plates on the carby's, which I have been told would improve power if removed, but does this mean that you also have to increase the size of the manifold/extractors?

Thanks again for all your advice, it's not an easy car to drive, the breaks are like using a leg press machine at the gym and the fuel ecconomy is **** house, but I love it - I can see why you're all so obsessed.

No, you don't need different exhaust, although of course, this would be an added improvement.

The other thing you will find unless already modified, is the spring loaded valves on the carby butterflys which allow extra air in whilst idling. Plays havoc with engine braking. I fixed mine by soldering them up, which made a huge difference. Can explain more if you're interested.

Agree re the brakes and you need muscles in your s..t at car park speeds to steer the thing:D

[rangieman]

mate all ill say is be carefull with toorak tractors i know from experience:twisted:

hey but its a nice looking rig:D

[Sam Ball]

Thanks - I would like further information on the butterfly valve, and any other information that might improve the efficiency - the fuel ecconomy is pretty ordinary. I was told by Dave Benson that the restrictors were put in place to de tune it to 96? HP for the drum brakes - so would this mean that fuel efficiency would also improve if the engine was allowed to breathe properly? - Any advice would be much appreciated.

And to Rangieman - can you recommend anyone else for repairs, etc - they did seem to specialise more in Disco's and Range Rovers.

Thanks again to everyone for all your advice.

[DeeJay]

No, you don't need different exhaust, although of course, this would be an added improvement.

The other thing you will find unless already modified, is the spring loaded valves on the carby butterflys which allow extra air in whilst idling. Plays havoc with engine braking. I fixed mine by soldering them up, which made a huge difference. Can explain more if you're interested.

Agree re the brakes and you need muscles in your s..t at car park speeds to steer the thing:D

I forgot about that one, I bought solid ones instead of soldering- it was easier as the carbies stayed in place. They are probably still available.

[barney]

No, you don't need different exhaust, although of course, this would be an added improvement.

The other thing you will find unless already modified, is the spring loaded valves on the carby butterflys which allow extra air in whilst idling. Plays havoc with engine braking. I fixed mine by soldering them up, which made a huge difference. Can explain more if you're interested.

Agree re the brakes and you need muscles in your s..t at car park speeds to steer the thing:D
welcome to my world, my oneten was brought out with basically the stage 1 running gear on a coil sprung chassis. no power steer, no A/C, but it does have wind down windows.
if you run the tyres around 45psi, it will make the manouvering a little easier until you build up your upper body strength.
you might be able to get better economy if you put in a fuel catalyst. they are not cheap (300-500 bucks), but it does actually work. it gets my consumption with a 4.0L V8 on carbys, down to about 15L/100km on the highway. you may then be able to save a bit of money and run it on a lower octane fuel. i'm running 95 now, was 98 before. and because these things raise your octane by about 5 points, you will feel a difference in power as well. how you use it is up to you. the one i've got is a performafuel, which is now marketed as fuelmate by blue mountains fuel injection. yuo can look them up on the web and you can fit it yourself.

[JDNSW]

I was told by Dave Benson that the restrictors were put in place to de tune it to 96? HP for the drum brakes - so would this mean that fuel efficiency would also improve if the engine was allowed to breathe properly? -

Looks like you have a gem of a Landrover. The reason for the restrictors is probably not only to cater to the drum brakes, but also the leaf spring suspension, and possibly to increase flexibility. I think it very unlikely that fuel efficiency would be affected either way by removing them - but your ability to use more fuel will be increased, so you could expect a higher fuel bill but brisker performance, unless you never used the increased performance, when your fuel useage would be unchanged, in which case, what's the point? All the restrictors do as far as I can see is to effectively limit maximum throttle opening.

[Bigbjorn]

Looks like you have a gem of a Landrover. The reason for the restrictors is probably not only to cater to the drum brakes, but also the leaf spring suspension, and possibly to increase flexibility. I think it very unlikely that fuel efficiency would be affected either way by removing them - but your ability to use more fuel will be increased, so you could expect a higher fuel bill but brisker performance, unless you never used the increased performance, when your fuel useage would be unchanged, in which case, what's the point? All the restrictors do as far as I can see is to effectively limit maximum throttle opening.

The restrictors may well have something to do with emission controls and the ADR's. Might be considered naughty ( by the ADR Gestapo) to remove them.

[mr_sav]

Nice Rig.

If it was mine though I would keep it as original as possible, Screw new exhaust etc. If what on it is fine then keep it as is. You would have to burn a lota miles to cover off on what you would spend replacing exhausts etc.

Enjoy it for what it is I say. I would even consider putting the original style box back in if it was not out of price reach.

Congratulations, you picked up a lovely rig.

[UncleHo]

G'day Sam Ball :)
That is a very nice original Stage 1 that you have got there, did the original owner have it converted fron the LT-95 manual gearbox ? or was it a special order with the Chrysler 727 3speed auto from the Range Rover ? if it is a factory conversion it would be truley rare :) as there were a few oddities that found their way out of the factory;)


The restrictors were fitted to them to lower the Horsepower, and to assist the drum brakes, if you are having brake problems (high pedal pressure) get somebody to check that Booster is working, or that the Vaccuum hose is not blocked (from Manifold to Booster) or has collasped internally, the brake pressure on drum brakes is higher than what is on current 4 wheel disc braked vehicles, and it could take a little time to adjust, the steering will be heavier than modern vehicles, if it is fitted with radial tyres run them at 40 psi and get the wheel alignment set at "ZERO TOE IN" as per service sheet on leaf sprung vehicles fitted with radials;) that will give you the lightest steering, Standard alignment was 1/32to 1/16 Toe-in,

Hope you get much pleasure from your new Landy:D


Bung-Tiddley
Uncle Ho :)

[Sam Ball]

Thanks Barney - I'll look it up.

[Sam Ball]

Thanks for your advice guys, the brakes are either getting better, or I'm getting used to them, but in general it seems to be running better now that I've driven it for a couple of weeks - previously it sat in a garage and was driven once a month.

Fuel ecconomy is horrendous though - I'm watching the k's on this tank and I think I'll be lucky to get over 300k's city driving - and I certianly haven't been thrashing it - is this as good as it gets?

Uncle Ho - I don't know about the auto conversion, it looks like a pretty good job though - has a transmission oil cooler set in front of the radiator with its own bracket mount and everything.

If you're interested I can take some photo's for you - you'd probably have a better idea than me.

Thanks again guys, your advice is always appreciated.

[BigJon]

Fuel ecconomy is horrendous though - I'm watching the k's on this tank and I think I'll be lucky to get over 300k's city driving - and I certianly haven't been thrashing it - is this as good as it gets?


I would say that is likely to be as good as it gets. When DJAM1 gets online I am sure he will have a pretty good idea of economy for these jiggers, he has a manual one as an every day driver.

[scrambler]

That's as good as it gets, Sam. Mines unrestricted, running 31x10.5 Duelers and gets 17/100 on the highway and 23/100 around town. On the 69L tank that's exactly 300km. You get used to the brakes and end up screeching tyres in other cars. The secret is to put the arch of your foot on the pedal and push with your thigh. I ran mine without the vacuum assist for a while - then you know what braking is all about! You get used to the steering as well - plan ahead and make sure you're moving to get the wheel around.

As for economy - I'd suggest if fuel bills are too much, take the government up on their gas rebate.

Congrats on the buy.

Steve

[UncleHo]

G'day Sam Ball :)
If after a while you find the Fuel billsare really biting you could always convert it to gas;) as that is the same motor and electricals as the Range-Rover :) and there are many members here that run gassed Rangies, you may even be able to locate a gas kit from somebody that is wrecking a Rangie:)

Yes I would be interested in some photos of the vehicle and the Auto mod, sounds like if it isn't factory, it was done be a specialist outfit.

cheers :)