Ball Joint modification

[vnx205]

I have spent some time trying to get rid of the dreaded rear end clunk on my Defender. Slack in the diff seemed acceptable and there was very little play anywhere else in the drivetrain. First step was replace the worn A frame ball joint, but that didn't seem to solve the problem so I replaced all the rear suspension bushes and bolts.
The problem was actually the replacement ball joint, but I've solved the problem and the Defender is clunk free for the first time since I bought it 5 months and 25,000km ago.
The replacement ball joint looked like a good design with the top screwed down to adjust for wear, but the material and workmanship didn't look all that flash. I went ahead and fitted it and it now appears that it failed almost immediately.
The thread for the big screw at the top stripped, so while I thought I had a nice new tight ball joint, what I actually had was huge amounts of play.
I discovered the problem while fitting the new bushes, so I modified it and appear to have solved the problem and still have the ability to adjust it when it wears.
I fitted a plate to hold the top bit in place. It is bolted in using the existing holes. The holes weren't threaded all the way through, so I had to use a tap to extend the thread. I fiitted a nut under the plate and tightened it against the ball joint fitting to stop it working loose. I reckon it is a better design than the original. It's still adjustable, but shouldn't fall apart.
I don't know if I was just unlucky to get a ball joint made by the work experience kid in some Taiwanese factory, but the thread looked pretty sloppy even before I fitted it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=balljointzo1.jpg) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=balljoint2xx7.jpg)

[LRHybrid100]

NICE job, I'm lazy - I would have just bought the Maxi Drive one!!!

LRH

[vnx205]

NICE job, I'm lazy - I would have just bought the Maxi Drive one!!!LRH
I could have just replied, "I'm tight - I repaired the old one", but I did it mainly because I needed the vehicle back on the road immediately.

[stevo]

the money you saved can now be spent on other things and even better
it worked

[CraigE]

What is the maxi drive unit worth??

[LRHybrid100]

About $165 from Graeme Cooper

http://www.lrexpert.com.au/parts_gif/large/324.jpg

[86mud]

or....

[Tank]

I have spent some time trying to get rid of the dreaded rear end clunk on my Defender. Slack in the diff seemed acceptable and there was very little play anywhere else in the drivetrain. First step was replace the worn A frame ball joint, but that didn't seem to solve the problem so I replaced all the rear suspension bushes and bolts.
The problem was actually the replacement ball joint, but I've solved the problem and the Defender is clunk free for the first time since I bought it 5 months and 25,000km ago.
The replacement ball joint looked like a good design with the top screwed down to adjust for wear, but the material and workmanship didn't look all that flash. I went ahead and fitted it and it now appears that it failed almost immediately.
The thread for the big screw at the top stripped, so while I thought I had a nice new tight ball joint, what I actually had was huge amounts of play.
I discovered the problem while fitting the new bushes, so I modified it and appear to have solved the problem and still have the ability to adjust it when it wears.
I fitted a plate to hold the top bit in place. It is bolted in using the existing holes. The holes weren't threaded all the way through, so I had to use a tap to extend the thread. I fiitted a nut under the plate and tightened it against the ball joint fitting to stop it working loose. I reckon it is a better design than the original. It's still adjustable, but shouldn't fall apart.
I don't know if I was just unlucky to get a ball joint made by the work experience kid in some Taiwanese factory, but the thread looked pretty sloppy even before I fitted it.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/15/balljointzo1.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=balljointzo1.jpg) http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/4862/balljoint2xx7.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=balljoint2xx7.jpg)
Allan, nice to see a fellow South Coaster on the Forum, I live at Moruya Heads.
I am interested in what you have done with the ball joint, did you buy it from Land Rover, seems very poorly made (balljoint), does the original have that groove across the adjusting screw, do you place spacers on top of the adj. screw to get play out, has the nut completely stripped, if so does the top plate you added seal in the grease, does it have a grease nipple, cant see in the photos, good job, Regards Frank.

[vnx205]

Allan, nice to see a fellow South Coaster on the Forum, I live at Moruya Heads.
I am interested in what you have done with the ball joint, did you buy it from Land Rover, seems very poorly made (balljoint), does the original have that groove across the adjusting screw, do you place spacers on top of the adj. screw to get play out, has the nut completely stripped, if so does the top plate you added seal in the grease, does it have a grease nipple, cant see in the photos, good job, Regards Frank.

The ball joint came from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne. I have bought quite a few parts from them since 1983 and this is the only item that was of very disappointing quality.
The one I took off, which I guess was the original one was not adjustable.
The thread was stripped enough that I could lift the screw out with my fingers.
I didn't need spacers because I adjusted the preload on the ball joint with the two bolts that went through the top plate. I can screw the top plate down a bit more later if it wears. The locknuts stop it moving.
I thought about a grease nipple, but was a bit pushed for time. I probably should have added one. However, there is a very thin O-ring at the bottom of the adjusting screw, so that should keep in the grease that is already there. I smeared some silicone around the top of the big screw to try to keep water, dust and mud out of the ball joint.

[Graeme]

Sorry to be playing the devil's advocate, but is it legal to modify a suspension part? The 2 bolts normally just hold the ball joint to stop it falling out, but now the bolts are load-bearing at the top, although if they come adrift then the ball can only push through a small distance before the diff bracket pushes onto the A-frame, so you end-up with the rear-end floating around a little. I expect it would fail a reg check if spotted.

[vnx205]

Sorry to be playing the devil's advocate, but is it legal to modify a suspension part? The 2 bolts normally just hold the ball joint to stop it falling out, but now the bolts are load-bearing at the top, although if they come adrift then the ball can only push through a small distance before the diff bracket pushes onto the A-frame, so you end-up with the rear-end floating around a little. I expect it would fail a reg check if spotted.
The two bolts that screw in from below and hold the ball joint in place are untouched and they still do exactly what they always did. The new bolts that screw in from the top are separate and just strengthen what was originally a poorly designed or manufactured part.
So no original part has been changed or made to work in a different way.
Does that answer your concern or have I misunderstood your post?

[vnx205]

Sorry to be playing the devil's advocate.
Don't apologise for playing the devil's advocate. I would much rather hear about a possible problem or weakness from someone on this forum than have the whole thing blow up in my face at a later time.
I took it for granted that posts such as this one of mine would result in constructive criticism, suggestions, questions, etc.

[Graeme]

The two bolts that screw in from below and hold the ball joint in place are untouched and they still do exactly what they always did. The new bolts that screw in from the top are separate and just strengthen what was originally a poorly designed or manufactured part.
So no original part has been changed or made to work in a different way.
Does that answer your concern or have I misunderstood your post?

Isn't the ball pushing on the ball seat which is held in place by the plate which is held in place by the 2 new top bolts? If this is so then the ball joint has been modified and I think that's a no-no, rego-wise.

If 1 of the top bolts comes out then the ball seat would come out and then the ball would no longer be confined. It wont come completely apart, but would be a lot worse than just a loose ball.

[vnx205]

I don't think there is much force pressing against the top and there isn't room for the ball to move up much.
This would appear to be confirmed by the fact that I am fairly sure the joint failed almost as soon as I fitted it. I was not aware of that at the time and drove about 13,000km including the Oodnadatta Track before I discovered the problem. With great care I could change gear without any clunk at all, so I had convinced myself that when the problem was there it was my fault.
It was only when I was replacing all the other bushes that I found the top dislodged and so loose that I could remove it by hand.
I can't believe that my setup is weaker than the original and in the extremely unlikely event that the top comes adrift, it would seem that the vehicle is still quite driveable.

[sclarke]

The ball joint came from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne. I have bought quite a few parts from them since 1983 and this is the only item that was of very disappointing quality.
The one I took off, which I guess was the original one was not adjustable.
The thread was stripped enough that I could lift the screw out with my fingers.
I didn't need spacers because I adjusted the preload on the ball joint with the two bolts that went through the top plate. I can screw the top plate down a bit more later if it wears. The locknuts stop it moving.
I thought about a grease nipple, but was a bit pushed for time. I probably should have added one. However, there is a very thin O-ring at the bottom of the adjusting screw, so that should keep in the grease that is already there. I smeared some silicone around the top of the big screw to try to keep water, dust and mud out of the ball joint.

That says it all.... i have bought some parts of them and now i refuse to get anything that is made of metal or alloy from them.... the quality is not there. Plus Anda is not hot anymore.. she is getting old...

[Pierre]

oh, clarkie...

[lokka]

That says it all.... i have bought some parts of them and now i refuse to get anything that is made of metal or alloy from them.... the quality is not there. Plus Anda is not hot anymore.. she is getting old...

Your right there clarkie there quality of parts has gone to shyte and there prices are a joke they use to look after people who got a bit of gear from them and now they wont even budge on the cataloge prices ive found a closer cheaper suplyer and am happy with the service i get :D:D:D:D