central locking kits for 95 Defender [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

haggisbasher

20th February 2007, 08:11 AM

Hello all.....

just wondering if anyone from the brains trust can help me. I bought some c/l actuators for my defender and found they won't fit the front doors. i asked the Tint professor if they can fit a central locking kit and was told yes, but for a heft price. So my question is, has anyone fitted C/l to their older defender and, if yes, how hard was it and how much did it cost.

Pm me the answers if you like...

Thanks in advance

Chris aka THB

JDNSW

20th February 2007, 08:17 AM

I fitted central locking to my pre-Defender 110 using one of the generic kits. Took a bit of ingenuity, but no real problems. The doors are different from the Defender, but I see no reason why this would present a problem, although I am not familiar with the inside works of the Defender doors.

In my doors the actuators are low down in the doors and with long rods to connect to the locking plungers.

John

haggisbasher

20th February 2007, 08:31 AM

My problem i foundd is the window, when wound all of the way down, would foul the actuator.....

hmmmmmm

JDNSW

20th February 2007, 08:37 AM

My problem i foundd is the window, when wound all of the way down, would foul the actuator.....

hmmmmmm

The window does not go all the way to the bottom of the door, and also, as it goes down it gets closer to the outside - I can't remember which effect I took advantage of (and I am not going to pull the lining off to have a look), but I do remember that it was a fairly tight fit, but was possible.

John

drover81

20th February 2007, 09:02 AM

Check out Defender200tdi gallery... he's got a gallery where he's installed the C/L kit in his wagon. I've done it in my '99 td5 using a generic kit (based upon Defender200tdi's install), not hard, just requires a bit of bending/zip-ties etc!

Cameron_Def

20th February 2007, 10:01 AM

where / how did you run the wires into the doors ?

Did you do a tidy job with some protecting tube for the wires ? or just left them out hanging!

haggisbasher

20th February 2007, 11:23 AM

i have hunted all over for Def220tdi galery....dya have any hints for where it is?.......

'feeling very lost'

:(

Cameron_Def

20th February 2007, 12:04 PM

i have hunted all over for Def220tdi galery....dya have any hints for where it is?.......

'feeling very lost'

:(

I did the same, no find ? Link anyone ?

drover81

21st February 2007, 07:34 AM

From door-pillar, I just ran from the gap between the frame and trim into the side of the dash.
Covering: I did mine just wrapping in electrical tape, but Defender200Tdi used some tubing that came with his kit.

Sorry about not being able to find Defender200Tdi's gallery, I'm 100% sure there used to be one. I've got the shortcut at home, I'll see if the gallery is still there. I may have the pictures stored somewhere too...

Maybe PM Defender200Tdi too for pics...

Defender200Tdi

21st February 2007, 11:47 AM

I did the same, no find ? Link anyone ?

That was in my gallery on the old site, but I've never been able to find all the images since the new site started. Were they ever archived anywhere?

Paul

JDNSW

21st February 2007, 12:30 PM

where / how did you run the wires into the doors ?

Did you do a tidy job with some protecting tube for the wires ? or just left them out hanging!

Ran them into the doors in the front just below the door check, and the same level at the back. For the fifth door, used the same tube as the wiper/washer wires.
Try and run the wires so they are twisting not bending when the door is opened, otherwise the will soon break, as I learned.

zwitter

21st February 2007, 08:52 PM

Hi
I mounted the front actuators horizontally onto the door strengthening rib on the outside of the winow. ie between the glass and the door skin. There is a rotating thing for the key lock and connected actuator rod to that. I tried mounting in the bottom of the door before but kept fouling the window or trim. Higher up this way for forwarding too. Wires run from a notch filed in the leading edge of trim to gap in dash trim.

I agree that wires should twist rather than flex. They will fatigue unless really special flexible cable is used. I used some plastic woven braid sheathing and filed rough edges as well. 6 months and all is well.

I do not have pictures and hate busting those clips each time i take the door trim off. I now keep spares but ...

james

Defender200Tdi

22nd February 2007, 08:30 AM

OK, I've found some of those photos from the old site that I had backed up on CD.

Here's the actuator in place:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/61.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/62.jpg

A closeup of the mounting strap. Pop rivets work better than bolts or screws because they allow the door panel to sit flat over the top:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/63.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/64.jpg

The actuator rod attaches easily to the existing lock. The wide dogleg bend is required to prevent the rod fouling the lock linkage. Make sure the end of the actuator rod bends inside of the link from the lock button otherwise it will jam it up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/65.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/66.jpg

This is where I took the wiring through to the door. It's been in place now for over 3 years without a problem:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/02/67.jpg

OK, I hope that helps.

Paul:)

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 08:39 AM

Thanks for the pics... I am bored at home today, I may just get bored enough to do this today

Where did you get the soft rubber hose ? Did it come with the pack ?

Defender200Tdi

22nd February 2007, 09:04 AM

Where did you get the soft rubber hose ? Did it come with the pack ?

The convoluted hose was in the kit. It was one of those cheap $30 kits from Strathfields. I later added to it with a remote alarm that interfaced with the central locking to give me remote central locking. Once again a cheap $120 kit from Strathfields.

Paul:)

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 09:12 AM

hmm I am looking at the jaycar cat, none of them come with it ... so I guess I will get some convolted hose from Clark Rubber, and do it that way ...

PS .. thanks, now I got something to do today!

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 02:26 PM

Paul, I am 90% way through the job, and even made a jig to make mounts for other people doing this job...

Just wondering, how did you drill into the side of the door? I tried on an angle (no good) etc etc.. and the only way I can see me being able to do it is remove the door ?

Is this how you did it ... if so did you remove the pins or undo the bolts ? (I have the tools to do either) ... whats easier ..

Btw I am taking heaps of pics for others if they want to DIY it..

incisor

22nd February 2007, 02:39 PM

prime candidate for a place in the project and tutorials section....

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 02:45 PM

Sure will ;) just the reason I am taking photos .... the door has me worried thou

Defender200Tdi

22nd February 2007, 03:18 PM

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 03:41 PM

Kick Pannel ?

On the door, or the floor ? My rechargeable one is dead, but my mains is smaller anyway ... hmmmm its more the car getting in the way.. and the drill bit is pretty big as well.

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 03:53 PM

never mind me .. I got ya!!

it was my snorkel holding my door back!

Cameron_Def

22nd February 2007, 04:14 PM

Defender200Tdi

22nd February 2007, 06:21 PM

Ok got the hole in the door done ... now where did you run the wire from inside the car ... from what I can see .. once I drill the hole in the panel below the door light switch, I can not see where I can trace the wire out of that cavity

Hmmm much fun this landrover thing ;)

Take the metal strip off that the door light switch comes through. That will then enable you to remove the kick panel - the large flat piece that is alongside your right ankle when you're driving. You should then be able to get the wire down from the opening revealed at the very top of that section. You'll probably need to use some stiff wire poked in through the hole you just drilled and use it as a hook to attached the wires to and pull them back through. Phew!!:blink:

Cameron_Def

23rd February 2007, 03:13 PM

Take the metal strip off that the door light switch comes through. That will then enable you to remove the kick panel - the large flat piece that is alongside your right ankle when you're driving. You should then be able to get the wire down from the opening revealed at the very top of that section. You'll probably need to use some stiff wire poked in through the hole you just drilled and use it as a hook to attached the wires to and pull them back through. Phew!!:blink:

Hmmm, I looked at that, I think on the td5 its welded / glued on, there is no screws along the part beside my right foot .... I will have another look when I get time!

Thanks for your help!

Cam

Cameron_Def

23rd February 2007, 04:50 PM

Take the metal strip off that the door light switch comes through. That will then enable you to remove the kick panel - the large flat piece that is alongside your right ankle when you're driving. You should then be able to get the wire down from the opening revealed at the very top of that section. You'll probably need to use some stiff wire poked in through the hole you just drilled and use it as a hook to attached the wires to and pull them back through. Phew!!:blink:

Just had another look, yeap defiantly unable to do that, they must have changed it a tad in the td5 .... the pannel next to my right ankle is glued, never to come off ... time to poke around and see what else can be done...

bugga.

Cameron_Def

27th February 2007, 09:04 PM

Ok ... well I have done ONE door (Drivers) got it working, and it has taken me about 12 hours to do, get it wired up, and cleaned up...

Let me say, I have installed ALOT of car stereos in my life, evening worked at at 2 installers for a few years when I was 15-16, I say around 400 or so, about 40+ alarms / central locking into all kinds of cars / vans / trucks..

AND...

The Landrover, TD5 110 / 2001 Defender is THE worse car I have ever, EVER done an install on... EVER

I have made jigs to make frames for the mounts so I can make many of them, I am cleaning up the wiring and making the lights flash and interior turning on when I unlock etc, but having to make from scratch the rubber covers, etc etc

If I had no drilled holes, riveted plates, and marked the actual unit, I would have given up..

So, unless you have alot of experience, alot of tools and ALOT of time, if you are contemplating this.... either get someone else to do it, or spend a good weekend doing it .... its NOT an easy job to get looking / working right..