disco 2000 ecu chipping...

[davros]

Hi everyone...
Was wondering what ecu upgrades I can choose from for a late 2000 disco (auto)? I have read the newer models have a "flashable" ecu (put on a trenchcoat and take it to the park? :eek:) but my earlier one isn't? True? I notice Tombraiders upgrade is not for mine?
I have also read of higher exhaust temps warping manifolds, but I found my manifold warped already... and busted studs... (and cracked head:mad:)so maybe this is a landrover issue not a chip issue?
Thanks for any advice!
Dave

[tombraider]

You are correct.

The Earlier ECUs require a solder in replacement of the main chip.
I'm endevouring to offer this on an exchange ECU basis as de-soldering/re-soldering a PLC44 chip is excruciating on the eyes :eek:

Problem is trying to get hold of good ECUs at decent price to do the work to. (I'm a sole trader and only do it outside my 'normal' job)

In the interim I'd suggest contacting Triumph Rover Spares for 'hard soldered' ECU upgrades.

As for warped manifolds/busted studs....

This is a product of the manifolds design.
The manifold is webbed and when it heats up the manifold cannot move on the head and bends or breaks studs. It happens to standard TD5s particularly those used to tow and in higher ambient temperatures or in hill terrain where they run warmer.

Chipping does increase EGTs under load but only marginally... More fuel = more heat... (The secrets in controlling it to safe limits)

The solution is a 2 part job. You'll need a die grinder.

Grind the webbing from between the ports leaving the main manifold.
Then slot the stud holes on either end of the manifold a little. This gives the manifold room to expand/contract as it heats up.

These modifications will avoid the common issues.

[davros]

When you say "slotted" what do you mean?Cut through from the outside in or "elongate" the hole so it has some lateral movement?
And a further ecu question... Will these chips just "drop in" or is there a requirement for testbook to be used?
Thanks,
Dave

[tombraider]

When you say "slotted" what do you mean?Cut through from the outside in or "elongate" the hole so it has some lateral movement?
And a further ecu question... Will these chips just "drop in" or is there a requirement for testbook to be used?
Thanks,
Dave

Elongate horizontally....

As for the chip question... I'll confirm this soon....
However, exchange ECU's will require testbook or equiv.....

I am looking at a "supply chip and decoder" option which will allow customers to attend their own Electronics guy and have the socket fitted to the ECU, then you can just plug in and drive away....

[jik22]

Elongate horizontally....

As for the chip question... I'll confirm this soon....
However, exchange ECU's will require testbook or equiv.....

I am looking at a "supply chip and decoder" option which will allow customers to attend their own Electronics guy and have the socket fitted to the ECU, then you can just plug in and drive away....

I saw a chip upgrade on an older TD5 Defender back in the UK which used an extra box in between the loom and the ECU rather than resoldering and replacing the chip in the ECU. Other than convenience, is there any advantage to either approach?

[Signal1]

You are correct.

The Earlier ECUs require a solder in replacement of the main chip.
I'm endevouring to offer this on an exchange ECU basis as de-soldering/re-soldering a PLC44 chip is excruciating on the eyes :eek:

Problem is trying to get hold of good ECUs at decent price to do the work to. (I'm a sole trader and only do it outside my 'normal' job)

In the interim I'd suggest contacting Triumph Rover Spares for 'hard soldered' ECU upgrades.

As for warped manifolds/busted studs....

This is a product of the manifolds design.
The manifold is webbed and when it heats up the manifold cannot move on the head and bends or breaks studs. It happens to standard TD5s particularly those used to tow and in higher ambient temperatures or in hill terrain where they run warmer.

Chipping does increase EGTs under load but only marginally... More fuel = more heat... (The secrets in controlling it to safe limits)

The solution is a 2 part job. You'll need a die grinder.

Grind the webbing from between the ports leaving the main manifold.
Then slot the stud holes on either end of the manifold a little. This gives the manifold room to expand/contract as it heats up.

These modifications will avoid the common issues.

So could you estimate approximate man hours it would take to grind, slot & refit, just so i can get an idea of how much I would be up for. Don't have the skill to do ones self.

Thanks.

[davros]

...interested in that... let me know of any updates!Pretty handy with a soldering iron myself - well enough to get me in trouble!
Cheers,
Dave.