View Full Version : Hookes uni joint
Ken
17th January 2008, 06:16 PM
Hey guys
Heard a noise under the Disco had a look and the front uni in the Hookes uni joint is beyond being usefull I have rang around and was told I need to replace the whole thing
Surely you can get the unis knock the old ones out and replace them with new ones ? :(
lokka
17th January 2008, 06:30 PM
Hey guys
Heard a noise under the Disco had a look and the front uni in the Hookes uni joint is beyond being usefull I have rang around and was told I need to replace the whole thing
Surely you can get the unis knock the old ones out and replace them with new ones ? :(
I take it your talkin bout the double cardan on the transfer end of the front shaft of your d2 ??
If so its not as easy as it sounds take it to a driveline specialist and they will sort it proper my brother had his done a few times in the time he had his d2 :D:D:D
Ken
17th January 2008, 07:08 PM
I take it your talkin bout the double cardan on the transfer end of the front shaft of your d2 ??
Yep thats the one :mad:
If so its not as easy as it sounds take it to a driveline specialist and they will sort it proper my brother had his done a few times in the time he had his d2 :D:D:D
After I calmed down I thought :D:D and remembered Veales in Canningvale rang em and he said roughly 200.00 to replace all three uni joints and balance the shaft not bad I thought compared to what a whole new shaft is worth :o:eek:
LandyAndy
17th January 2008, 07:31 PM
Hey Kenneth
You didnt mention that when we were chatting this morn.
Go to Albany there are at least 2 mechanics that have rebuilt them this year:D:D:D:D:D
My unis were around $43 for the pair.The mechanic charged me $198 for around 5 hours labour,mainly because he had never done one and I actually worked the "EYE" joint out between the 2 unis and helped him do the job.
RAVE CD / Dealers are no good,buy a new shaft.
Make sure you search both mine and Davros' posts before you let anybody touch yours.
Andrew
Ken
17th January 2008, 08:07 PM
Gday Andrew
Had heard the noise for the first time yesterday and then again today on the way home then when at home had a squiz and low and behold one knackered uni :mad:
Have rung Veales in Canningvale and they specialise in driveshafts theyve roughly quoted $200.00 for the job so Id say thats sounding about what you paid to have yours done and I should have it back the same day or early the next :)
LandyAndy
17th January 2008, 08:35 PM
Hi Ken
Make sure they put greasable unis in.You need the nipple between the spiders not on the flat face,better still on the end of a lobe if possible(I couldnt get them).
Also get a nipple put on the sliding joint where the grub screw is,it shouldnt hit the xmember if a small one is used.
MAKE DOUBLY SURE THEY HAVE DONE A LANDY HOOKES JOINT!!!!!!!
The LOWLUX ones dont have the eye between the 2 unis,the guy who did mine hadnt seen anything like it and was quite a MATURE spanner man!!!!
Andrew
Blknight.aus
17th January 2008, 09:04 PM
playing devils advocate......
its because of the "center alignment bits" that I advocate that you dont rebuild the rover DC joint you replace it. If those bits get a bit of a hammering via shot UJ's they can look ok but there exists the risk that they are more likely to let go.
that things not exactly light and its spinning at a fair rate and its right nextdoor to your gearbox and left foot.... you can guess the rest.
If all the internal workings are replaced with the new UJ's this is obviously a moot point.
Graeme
17th January 2008, 09:27 PM
When I did mine the 1st time (as preventative maintenance!) I wrecked part of the centre bearing internals so replaced the rollers with a bronze bush. That lasted 10,000kms but eventually the bronze couldn't take the wear and the shaft got a little case of the rumblings but that's all. Admittedly there were no needle rollers to fall out to leave a big gap but the centre ball doesn't seem to pose any problem. If the joint comes totally apart then most likely the centering ball rollers are gone and there are damaged yokes too. For only chopped-out unis I'm most happy to just replace the unis, but perhaps others aren't.
Ken
17th January 2008, 09:35 PM
playing devils advocate......
its because of the "center alignment bits" that I advocate that you dont rebuild the rover DC joint you replace it. If those bits get a bit of a hammering via shot UJ's they can look ok but there exists the risk that they are more likely to let go.
that things not exactly light and its spinning at a fair rate and its right nextdoor to your gearbox and left foot.... you can guess the rest.
If all the internal workings are replaced with the new UJ's this is obviously a moot point.
when you say internal workings do you mean the centre ball as well ?
LandyAndy
17th January 2008, 09:53 PM
The guy who did mine wanted me to take it to a retired mate to make a bronze bush up to replace the centre ball.I resisted that idea.
Mine failed the day before the trip home,well only made chirping noises,only in certail conditions.
It started chirping like a sliping belt once it got hot towing all the gear home from the holiday.
It was only one of the unis that was on its way out and only because it was dry,the second uni and the eye had plenty of grease and were fine.
The eye does very little as you will see when you pull one out ant rotate it off the vehicle.
No need to replace the eye unless there has been a big failure,it doesnt really do anything as the 2 unis take the strain.
Andrew
Blknight.aus
17th January 2008, 10:06 PM
by internals I mean everything thats held inside the big weight of death between the 2 Uj's themselves.
If your messing with the DC while the shaft is out look at doing something to offer it some protection from water run off out of the aircon and some kind of safety loop to go over it so that instead of becoming the big weight of death it becomes the brown trouser causing clanger.
Ken
17th January 2008, 10:13 PM
by internals I mean everything thats held inside the big weight of death between the 2 Uj's themselves.
If your messing with the DC while the shaft is out look at doing something to offer it some protection from water run off out of the aircon and some kind of safety loop to go over it so that instead of becoming the big weight of death it becomes the brown trouser causing clanger.
HeHe:D
same as a tail shaft loop on a race car eh will do and make a shroud for water run off as well
Thanks for the help :)
Blknight.aus
17th January 2008, 10:28 PM
No need to replace the eye unless there has been a big failure,it doesnt really do anything as the 2 unis take the strain.
Andrew
urmmmmmmmm
isnt it there to maintain the angular alignment between the 2 Ujs in the Dc....
Graeme
18th January 2008, 06:23 AM
urmmmmmmmm
isnt it there to maintain the angular alignment between the 2 Ujs in the Dc....
The ball joint is there to maintain a pivot between the TC flange and the long section of the shaft. If 1 or both unis are removed then drive will be achieved by the yokes but that will put a lot of strain on the ball joint due to the yokes grabbing and not being able to turn smoothly. The spigot will also pull out of the ball. If the unis are still in place but just buggered then there's no extra strain placed on the ball joint.
Ken
18th January 2008, 09:56 AM
Well have pulled the front propshaft out and the casing that holds the uni joint together is non existant :o
So Im off to find a replacement and have it rebuilt
Oh the joys of mechanical machines :D:D:D
Blknight.aus
18th January 2008, 01:07 PM
The ball joint is there to maintain a pivot between the TC flange and the long section of the shaft. If 1 or both unis are removed then drive will be achieved by the yokes but that will put a lot of strain on the ball joint due to the yokes grabbing and not being able to turn smoothly. The spigot will also pull out of the ball. If the unis are still in place but just buggered then there's no extra strain placed on the ball joint.
yep so the purpose of the ball joint is to align the 2 Ujs and prevent the whole assembly from flopping around... Cool
What happens when the ball part of the assembly fails but the Uj's dont because the Ujs were replaced but the ball wasnt?
Ken
18th January 2008, 07:54 PM
Well after a quick ring around and a drive in the missus car I have a near new second hand front prop shaft for $200.00
10mins with two spanners and 1 beer all fixed (woohoo :D:D)
Thanks to Kevin at Rovatech who put me onto a nice Fella named Ian who is wrecking late model Landies
The D2 lives again to fight another day :angel:
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