D2 99 hooks jointed drive shaft?

[pohm66]

"Also posted in Discovery forum"

I have been told that my 99 TD5 should have a hooks jointed front shaft rather than the 2 standard Universals. Is this right or just another of those later model upgrades?

The literature I see is yes just want clarify.....

Cheers........
Paul

[davros]

Yep it should have.
Good idea to fit some greaseable unis in it too, and check the operation of the splines.
Run a search on "greaseable uni joints" or similar. Or greasable? How dya spell it??

Dave

[pohm66]

Hmmm Thanks Dave... thats what I was hoping for sort of....

OK next question????

Are the UJ plates different, they look to have different bolt centres so that you can only fit the hooks end to the transfer case.

My D2 has the same setup at both ends which is why I asked about the later model upgrade.

Paul

[LandyAndy]

Sounds like an earlier D1 shaft has been fitted.
Andrew

[pohm66]

Thats what I was informally told LandyAndy.... but it doesn't seem to be JUST a D1 shaft as the bolt plate on the transfer case seems to have a different bolt centre setup so a direct swap doesn't seem quite feasible???

Is this right?

Paul

[LandyAndy]

I think you will find they are all the same.
D1/Rangie/Defender owners use the D2 shaft when they get tailshaft problems due to raised suspension kits causing binding of the uni-joints.
Have a look at your rear tailshaft.A common D2 conversion is to replace the rubber donut at the diff end with an early standard tailshaft.
May give further clues to how much messing a previous owner has done.
Andrew

[pohm66]

Founf a thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/30536-disco-1-driveline-vibration.html in which Slunnie mentions a DC (Double Cardan) flange....

I'm cringing at thought that I have a D2 with a D1 flange and shaft..... Anyone know where I can get a DC flange??????

Paul

[pohm66]

Thanks for the clues Landy

Rear end looks normal with robber donut... just hoping that a previous owner did a shaft and opted for a cheaper fix of a conversion to a D1 setup...Time to set it right me thinks.....

[p38arover]

I have been told that my 99 TD5 should have a hooks jointed front shaft rather than the 2 standard Universals.

To be pedantic.......

The correct name for a conventional single universal joint is (in Britain) a Hookes Joint or, in Europe, a Cardan Joint.

late edit: See Universal joint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint)

[LandyAndy]

Onya Ron:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
RAVE CD actually calls it a hookes joint,I was only looking the other day:p:p:p:p.
Paul,Im guessing on normal everyday roads the D1 would be fine.With big artic you could be in strife.
Bundalene on Ebay had one with new greasable unis,earlier in the week.unsure if it sold.Try contacting him via his Ebay store.
Andrew

[Dougal]

To be pedantic.......

The correct name for a conventional single universal joint is (in Britain) a Hookes Joint or, in Europe, a Cardan Joint.

late edit: See Universal joint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint)

Thanks Ron, this thread was making no sense at all up till that post.
So what is the concern? Greasable vs non-greasable or uni (hookes) joints where you expect a rotoflex?

[pohm66]

Thanks all for the discussion.... just to clarify.....

RAVE cd 47-2 of the worshop manual calls the double articulation joint at the transfer box end of the shaft as a "Hookes joint' and the diff end as as 'Universal joint'. This seems to be an error.

Universal joint (American) = Hookes joint (British) = Cardan joint (European).
Double Hookes joint = Double Cardan joint.

If you are swapping a D1/ D2 front shafts then the transfer box flange also needs to be changed as the bolt centre pattern is different on the Double Cardan joint.

I have a D1 shaft and flange on my D2 and wanting to swap back to original.

Cheers......
Paul

[LandyAndy]

Paul
Another question.
What does your hi/lo lever do.
ONLY move forward and back????(as a non CDL D2 does)
Or does it move to the side as well ????(engages CDL on a D1)
JUST WONDERING,has somebody fitted a D1 transfercase to gain a working CDL????
Try moving it sideways and see what happens.
Andrew

[tombraider]

Paul
Another question.
What does your hi/lo lever do.
ONLY move forward and back????(as a non CDL D2 does)
Or does it move to the side as well ????(engages CDL on a D1)
JUST WONDERING,has somebody fitted a D1 transfercase to gain a working CDL????
Try moving it sideways and see what happens.
Andrew

His is a 99 so will have the bits and unless someone has retrofitted it shouldnt be connected...

In which case the most important and significant upgrade will be a later D2a lever!

[LandyAndy]

Hi Mike
He also says it has a D1 output flange as well as the shaft.
I was wondering if somebody had changed the transfercase to D1 not realising all the bits were inside the CDL.
Andrew

[tombraider]

Hi Mike
He also says it has a D1 output flange as well as the shaft.
I was wondering if somebody had changed the transfercase to D1 not realising all the bits were inside the CDL.
Andrew

More likely some owner has had a DC failure and retro fitted the D1 shaft, which is stronger, but vibrates more!

Its a single nut and 2 minutes work!

[pohm66]

Hi LandyAndy and Tombraider.

Yep got a little vibration with the D1 shaft at 60Ks and 110Ks... my self wind watch never stops:D

From what we can see the transfer case is a S2 and will the internal CDL mechanism and like all 99 models the hi/low is just a forward / backward shift.

The upgrade is on the shopping list.... would prefer to go to the 2a but as always the $$$$$s count. Might have to just have the CDL accuator kick in with Low only... shopping around for prices at the moment.

LR sell the front shaft DC flange kit for $300 :eek: but my friendly mechanic sourced one for $150.:BigThumb:

Paul

[tombraider]

Dont go Low Range CDL only...

Useless waste of money.

There are many times that High Locked is more appropriate

[Graeme]

and sometimes low range and unlocked is preferred....

[tombraider]

and sometimes low range and unlocked is preferred....

Yes, definately, use it all the time reversing larger trailers into the driveway (one example)

[Graeme]

Yes, definately, use it all the time reversing larger trailers into the driveway (one example)
Or like the time I disengaged the CDL on my RRC for a few seconds to negotiate, without stopping, a tight hairpin bend half-way up a steep cliff whilst all the other brands had to do 3-point turns risking reversing over the edge.

[pohm66]

The D2 front shaft is now in and no shakes....

Also doing a DIY CDL actuator that is independant of the hi-lo. Should have some pics to publish after this weekend if it all works. Cost $50 plus a favour from a welder.
8-)

[tempestv8]

Good to hear.

Just don't forget to grease those universal joints periodically!