View Full Version : Lift It More
Fusion
10th February 2008, 06:14 PM
I know there was a thread about under slinging the diff on a series but what i am wanting to know is . How can you change the set up of the uni's to stop them from jamming up and breaking ? Just looking at it there would be a nice big angle on the drive shafts and i think it would screw the shafts out super quick . Any ideas ?
olmate
10th February 2008, 06:56 PM
I am not a fan of this but I have seen it done before on other vehicles. The blokes spoke of "wedges" to compensate for thes increase in angles etc. Hopefully someone can put it more technically correct than I. :)
Blknight.aus
10th February 2008, 06:58 PM
theres a hand full of options the cheap ones a bit harsh but works and the other 2 are expensive but a lot better.
first of simply angle the diffs so that the pinion is pointin more upwards than normal. this is a bit rough on the shaft Ujs and can cause shaft unbalance but its the cheapest option and better than leaving everything alone.
next you fit up a double carden joing to the gearbox side and have the shafts shortened to accomodate them. this is the next cheapest option to setup but introduces more flex points in the shaft but if you get it right the first time round isnt too bad till the DC claps out.
The last option is to have the whole shaft rebuild using CV joints instead of UJs its expensive first up but providing you keep the CV;s sealed and serviced regulalry without overloading them (not a problem if you get the right ones first up or havent repowered with something with more nuts than the rover6) they last an age.
101RRS
10th February 2008, 07:07 PM
The 101 has under slung axles on a 101" wheelbase. The angle in the driveshafts is pretty viscious and the unis do have a short lifespan but it is doable - an 88 would be a worry though.
Garry
Slunnie
10th February 2008, 10:13 PM
A DC joint doesn't necessarily have the ability to produce more of an angle that a regular uni, and you need to have the pinion pointing at the TC flange to run this with reduced vibration - they will still vibrate with big angles.
you can get specific uni joints that are designed to run at big angles, and they have longer yolks and can run at larger angles without binding. Toyota also make a high angle DC joint for the Hilux on some models if you want to head down that path, but will have to adapt it, and the problem with adapters is that they shorten the driveshaft. High angles does cause exponentially accelerated wear and vibration.
srowlandson
11th February 2008, 01:02 PM
I know there was a thread about under slinging the diff on a series but what i am wanting to know is . How can you change the set up of the uni's to stop them from jamming up and breaking ? Just looking at it there would be a nice big angle on the drive shafts and i think it would screw the shafts out super quick . Any ideas ?
In my opinion, it's a nasty way of getting lift.
Just cut the guards some more and fit bigger tyres :)
Lotz-A-Landies
11th February 2008, 01:44 PM
The 101 has under slung axles on a 101" wheelbase. The angle in the driveshafts is pretty viscious and the unis do have a short lifespan but it is doable - an 88 would be a worry though.
Garry
Garry
Wouldn't it be nice it you could have the salisburies fitted upside down on the 101. There would be a lot less angle on the unis but virtually no lubrication to the pinion.
Perhaps a little oil pump?
It is the compromise between the hypoid design and the spiral bevel design.
Diana
101RRS
11th February 2008, 02:04 PM
Garry
Wouldn't it be nice it you could have the salisburies fitted upside down on the 101. There would be a lot less angle on the unis but virtually no lubrication to the pinion.
Perhaps a little oil pump?
It is the compromise between the hypoid design and the spiral bevel design.
Diana
Or better still - when designing why not tilt the rear axle up so the unis are in a straight line and do the same on the front as the chrome steering balls are welded to the axle not bolted. Both axles are unique to the 101 it would not have been an issue.
Garry
Rangier Rover
11th February 2008, 02:55 PM
Why convert to spring over? Here's my 2a with 35x12.5 on 8"Rims with 95mm Back space. A guard trim and nothing touches on full lock. I done springover on series rovers before its not worth it unless fitting truck diffs and larger than 35's:eek:.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=6802&stc=1&d=1202705226
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=6803&stc=1&d=1202705672
Cheers RR.
Fusion
12th February 2008, 07:20 AM
Now i have a few spare diff housings sitting around . So I was thinking of cutting the bump stops and the flat piece that the springs bolt to off and rewelding the flat piece to the top of the housing on an angle to reduce uni wear . Is this a good idea or a dodgie one ? :)
Rangier Rover
12th February 2008, 11:55 AM
Now i have a few spare diff housings sitting around . So I was thinking of cutting the bump stops and the flat piece that the springs bolt to off and rewelding the flat piece to the top of the housing on an angle to reduce uni wear . Is this a good idea or a dodgie one ? :)
Will help uni at diff end not at gear box end. Will stuff up Caster and str like a fork lift:o. Also prop shafts lengths,Brake pipes,Shocks, Bump stops and Drag link. Centre of gravity wiil change. You would have to be keen to want to do this. I doubt it would be engineerable for street.
Fusion
12th February 2008, 02:27 PM
Will help uni at diff end not at gear box end. Will stuff up Caster and str like a fork lift:o. Also prop shafts lengths,Brake pipes,Shocks, Bump stops and Drag link. Centre of gravity wiil change. You would have to be keen to want to do this. I doubt it would be engineerable for street.
But if i was to put the housing on an angle but unbolt the swivel balls and bolt them back on straight . Wouldn't that fix the steering ? I'm not worried about having to shorten the shafts as that can be done easy enough. And with putting the angle on the diff it would take some angle off the gearbox uni as you are lifting the front of the shaft up . I could be wrong but i'm just thinking of everyway possible to do it the best way . Thanks :)
Rangier Rover
12th February 2008, 02:41 PM
But if i was to put the housing on an angle but unbolt the swivel balls and bolt them back on straight . Wouldn't that fix the steering ? I'm not worried about having to shorten the shafts as that can be done easy enough. And with putting the angle on the diff it would take some angle off the gearbox uni as you are lifting the front of the shaft up . I could be wrong but i'm just thinking of everyway possible to do it the best way . Thanks :)Sounds feasible.:) If going to all this grief may as well stick Rangie gear + Suspension under it and Toymotor or Poo-trol Diffs;):wasntme:
Have Fun! RR.
Fusion
13th February 2008, 07:59 AM
But if i was to put the housing on an angle but unbolt the swivel balls and bolt them back on straight . Wouldn't that fix the steering ? I'm not worried about having to shorten the shafts as that can be done easy enough. And with putting the angle on the diff it would take some angle off the gearbox uni as you are lifting the front of the shaft up . I could be wrong but i'm just thinking of everyway possible to do it the best way . Thanks :)
What do you think of this setup Blknight ? :) providing everything was welded up right and balanced right i think it could work .
Slunnie
13th February 2008, 07:02 PM
This is not uncommon. If the pinion points up you will also need to use a doble cardin shaft.
On Toy diffs they cut the ends off the diff and rotate to correct castor before rewelding.
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