TD5 warm up

[Aaron]

Do you warm up your td5's?

I know in petrol engines there is a lot of debate. As for diesels Ive no idea.

[Slunnie]

No.

I think the trend is for engines with engine management should be just gotten in and driven, but don't shut them down hot if turbo charged.

[tombraider]

Do you warm up your td5's?

I know in petrol engines there is a lot of debate. As for diesels Ive no idea.

Manufacturers of modern vehicles now say drive of smoothly till up to normal temp...

No debate... Simple! Factory says so!

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I start it and give it 5-10 while I put my seatbelt on. Then I drive off gently. As Toomby says, as per factory recommendations.

[Slunnie]

I start it and give it 5-10 while I put my seatbelt on. Then I drive off gently. As Toomby says, as per factory recommendations.
It really shouldn't take that long to get your seatbelt on. In that time I've started, driven to work, parked and turned off. :p

[hiline]

dont warm mine up

always in to much of a hurry for that ;)

[Blknight.aus]

i do about the same, start it, plug the phone in put the belt on, reverse out the drive way and then ease away... (as much as one can ease away when you hav e all the beasties of hades trapped atop your pistons crowns)

[Aaron]

Im the same. I used to do it to my BA Falcon, and I ended up with a filthy throttle body.

[ak]

I start it and give it 5-10 while I put my seatbelt on. Then I drive off gently. As Toomby says, as per factory recommendations.

About the same for me to.

[Bigbjorn]

Detroit Diesel Operators Instructions always said to fire them up and get into it. Warm up not necessary.

[jimbo110]

It really shouldn't take that long to get your seatbelt on. In that time I've started, driven to work, parked and turned off. :p
If you can drive to work in 5-10 seconds you shouldn't be driving to work :o

[solmanic]

Yep.
I start it - then drive off gently for a few km until I notice the temp guage starting to rise to operating temp before I give it some boot.

[solmanic]

If you can drive to work in 5-10 seconds you shouldn't be driving to work :o

Maybe he just drives f$%&ing FAST!

[hiline]

Maybe he just drives f$%&ing FAST!


:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:fast and fender ;)

[LRHybrid100]

I let any motor tick over for 10 secs on start up and take it easy till fully warm.

but, more importantly is letting the motor tick over for about 10-15 sec when stopping.

LRH

[ATH]

Had an Indian Doctor lived next door to me in the UK and his idea of warming up his new Peugot 604 was to get in, start it and then rev the guts out of it for a few minutes!
Didn't matter how cold it was, snow, ice, frost, just rev it like mad.
Didn't last more than a year if that, and sounded really bad, rattled, smoked, banged and sounded knackered.
Nice reasonable gentle driving is the best way as others have said.
Alan.

[BigJon]

Isn't the standard procedure preselect first gear, hit key and while letting go of the key, bring your foot off the clutch. That way the vehicle is already moving as the starter motor is winding down. You can be in second gear almost before the starter motor relay magnetic field has fully collapsed. :D:p:twisted:

Warm up is for wusses:angel:.

[BigJon]

Had an Indian Doctor lived next door to me in the UK and his idea of warming up his new Peugot 604 was to get in, start it and then rev the guts out of it for a few minutes!


On a cold start, the new Subaru Impreza goes straight to about 2000 rpm, then slowly winds back to a normal idle. Very disconcerting. I think it is for emission control reasons.

[Slunnie]

If you can drive to work in 5-10 seconds you shouldn't be driving to work :o
:D

Actually, the job I've just left I could do that, and in reverse! My boarding house was on one side of my driveway, and my workshops on the other side. :D

It's 5 or 10mins now though. :(

[Captain_Rightfoot]

On a cold start, the new Subaru Impreza goes straight to about 2000 rpm, then slowly winds back to a normal idle. Very disconcerting. I think it is for emission control reasons.
Interestingly our Audi on cold start only goes to 1200 and you can barely tell it's cold.

[Blknight.aus]

On a cold start, the new Subaru Impreza goes straight to about 2000 rpm, then slowly winds back to a normal idle. Very disconcerting. I think it is for emission control reasons.

yep, the high speed idle is to rapidly warm the cat up to operating temper ature among other things


Detroit Diesel Operators Instructions always said to fire them up and get into it. Warm up not necessary.

is that for the 4's as well as the 2 strokes? I know the 2 strokes have a habit on cold days of chilling themselves so much from the flow through that takes care of the scavanging that the diesel just wont ignite.

[foz.in.oz]

All the manual says is don't hit the throttle till the oil light has gone off. That's about the time it takes to find the reverse gear, belt up and drop the clutch. In other words I don't warm up mine.

[Graeme]

Isn't the standard procedure preselect first gear, hit key and while letting go of the key, bring your foot off the clutch. That way the vehicle is already moving as the starter motor is winding down. You can be in second gear almost before the starter motor relay magnetic field has fully collapsed. :D:p:twisted:

Warm up is for wusses:angel:.
You're wasting time - start it with the clutch out and your foot on the throttle!

[JDNSW]

Because of their relatively high thermal efficiency and generally higher mass than a petrol engine of the same power, diesel engines will warm up very slowly unless working. Hence the engine should start working as soon as possible, as wear is greater when cold. So no warm up - drive off as soon as the oil pressure light goes out. In very cold weather a radiator muff is a good idea to ensure rapid warmup. However, no warmup with any diesel. Petrol engines, in general, the same advice - no advantage in warming up, but perhaps less disadvantage.

The only exception is possibly in extreme cold (rarely if ever found anywhere in Australia) where driving very gently for the first few minutes when the oil is really too thick is advised.

Warming up engines is a leftover from the days of single viscosity oils and no thermostats. Aircraft piston engines are commonly warmed up - they are aircooled, and the oil has less viscosity range than motor oils, and because of this need to be hot before the use of full power - which will be the first call, for takeoff. But in Australia no specific warmup is usually needed - by the time you have taxied to the takeoff point and checked the engine (usually run up to about 1500, check both magnetos working and cycle the propeller pitch) the oil temperature will be in the green, and the engine is ready to go. There have been cases where full rpm before the oil temperature is up have sheared the oil pump drive. I have never heard of this in a car or truck engine, but it is probably worth avoiding high rpm for the first few minutes of operation for this reason.

John

[Stepho_62]

Ya know, irrespective of what all the experts say I always wait until I'm confident that there is full flow and full pressure around ALL of the lube system.

I suspect this takes no more than 90 seconds at the most so, its not so much a "warm up" as a "lube up".

I guess the other thing is that having full pressure at the guage is NOT an indication of a fully primed lube system but indication of a primed pump.

Many years back when I used to build V8's for fun one of the things I noticed was that the old GM-H blocks (253 - 308) took about 40 seconds with a new pump to get the oil out of the sump and to the top of the push rods.

The Ford V8's (Clevelands) with their different design oil pump used to take about 25 seconds.

Not seen a TDi 300 started with the rocker off from cold but a minute should be long enough.

I suspect excessive idleing without corresponding loaded running will glaze the bore too.

[BigJon]

You're wasting time - start it with the clutch out and your foot on the throttle!


LOL :D:D

[tempestv8]

With the ScanGauge II, I am able to see the temperature of the coolant in realtime. It's interesting that on the Disco II V8, the temperature gauge points to full operating temperature when the coolant has reached 70 deg C.

This is about 25 deg C below full operating temperature. Fortunately it only takes a few more minutes for the coolant temperature of around 95 deg C.

I drive like a featherfoot until both the engine and the transmission is fully up to temp. Thereafter, I may drive more aggressively. :angel:

[Stepho_62]

With the ScanGauge II, I am able to see the temperature of the coolant in realtime. It's interesting that on the Disco II V8, the temperature gauge points to full operating temperature when the coolant has reached 70 deg C.

Tell me more about ScanGuage II please.:cool: