33x10.5x15 tyres on a IIA 88"?

[Dauntless]

Hey everyone. What modifications would I need to do to fit 33x10.5x15 tyres to my 1970 IIA 88"?

I know 31x10.5's fit with relative ease, but would prefer 33x10.5 for the extra off-road ability, and I don't mind losing a bit of gearing.

If I need to raise the IIA above stock height, could I use 1 ton (or equivalent length) shackles on my 88"?

Thanks in advance :)

[101RRS]

Hey everyone. What modifications would I need to do to fit 33x10.5x15 tyres to my 1970 IIA 88"?

Axles - if not you willl be doing it everytime you go out :)

Garry

[Dauntless]

Could you be more specific? Do you mean I will be breaking axles? If so, are stronger axles available to fit the standard housings?

[101RRS]

I have broken rear axles on every series landrover I have owned and they all had standard wheels and tyres - so if you are going bigger wheels and tyres you will need to look at axles as a start and maybe diffs etc - someone else will have to advise options as I am no expert in this area - search of the forum might help.

Cheers

Garry

[Dauntless]

OK, interesting, thanks for that. I Want to keep it relatively stock, hence my reason for asking about smallish tyres, and wanting to keep a stockish appearance, and stock drivetrain. Certainly gives me something to think about.

[Fusion]

Mate , I am running 32x11.5x15's on my standard 109 and if driven like it's meant to can't see an axle breaking in a real hurry. But always a big possibility as they are not the strongest axle kicking about .

[Dauntless]

Mate , I am running 32x11.5x15's on my standard 109 and if driven like it's meant to can't see an axle breaking in a real hurry. But always a big possibility as they are not the strongest axle kicking about .

OK thanks. So that's a regular Land Rover rear diff, not a Salisbury?

Do you know if stronger axles exist? Also, I intend to install a locker, which I'm sure would be harder on axles.

Did you have to trim the guards or raise the body or suspension? Do they rub anywhere?

[Fusion]

OK thanks. So that's a regular Land Rover rear diff, not a Salisbury?

Do you know if stronger axles exist? Also, I intend to install a locker, which I'm sure would be harder on axles.

Did you have to trim the guards or raise the body or suspension? Do they rub anywhere?

Mate, I have an army chassis so it already has the 2 inch lift . But i can't see where they would rub in a big way . i haven't trimmed anything up either . Cheers.

[rovercare]

So is it a rover diff or a salisbury?:p

[Fusion]

So is it a rover diff or a salisbury?:p

Oops . it's a rover diff for now but will change it later on down the track to a sals ;)

[Dauntless]

Interesting. How do the Army versions achieve a 2" lift?

[Fusion]

The army welded on longer hanger mounts front and back . i'm not sure if they done it with the SWB's but you could get longer shackles to lift it a little .

[isuzurover]

Both military SWB and LWB had 1.5" extensions to the spring hangers and extended shackles. So overall a spring lift of about 1.5" over stock (also spacers under the bump stops).

I have 33" (285/75-16's) on my IIA (military), on disco rims with +30mm of extra offset. They just clear everything. The current setup is a MD/Sals rear and a Stage 1 front (unlocked). Haven't broken anything.

I have broken 4 rear rover (series) halfshafts on 32" tyres in various landies. That was all done with a very light right foot and stock engines. Series halfshafts aren't strong.

[Rangier Rover]

Have run 35x12.2 on my 2a with a guard trim and -25mm offset rims. Has sals rear and rover front. So have sheared front cwp. Don't spin the tyres :o. The 4.7:1 are prone to this

[dandlandyman]

It'll look good with big tyres and a lift.

I've heard though that big tyres may cause a few minor problems...

1. broken axles, esp 2a. You can get high tensile axles but they're a kind of built in 'fuse', so how far back up the drive line would you rather have a weak point?

2. heavy steering, especially at low speeds. You can fit power steering to them though, made much easier if you have a Holden motor.

3. shorter wheel bearing life. Mainly because of bigger wheel off-set. Mustn't be all that common though, otherwise no Land Rovers would have big tyres.

All that said, big tyres would have to have some fuel saving benefits, as well as better grip in on and off road conditions.

And, of course, they look good. Good luck with it all.

[Dauntless]

Thanks for that info everyone. So, drifting further off topic....

How difficult is it to upgrade to a Salisbury rear diff?

What are my front diff options?

I have heard I will run into propshaft universal joint angle issues, is this true? How do I solve this?

How difficult is it to fit a LT85/LT230 to my IIA? Is this a good idea?

[Rangier Rover]

Thanks for that info everyone. So, drifting further off topic....

How difficult is it to upgrade to a Salisbury rear diff?

What are my front diff options?

I have heard I will run into propshaft universal joint angle issues, is this true? How do I solve this?

How difficult is it to fit a LT85/LT230 to my IIA? Is this a good idea?
You need a series 3 Stage 1:D

[Dauntless]

That would make sense, though my IIA has been in the family since 1972, so it has a lot of sentimental value.

[isuzurover]

Thanks for that info everyone. So, drifting further off topic....

How difficult is it to upgrade to a Salisbury rear diff?

What are my front diff options?

I have heard I will run into propshaft universal joint angle issues, is this true? How do I solve this?

How difficult is it to fit a LT85/LT230 to my IIA? Is this a good idea?

There are lots of different options - depends how far you want to go.

A sals will fit but will need - new spring mounts that rotate the nose of the diff up slightly and a shortened propshaft.

The front should hold up OK to 33's. SIII 109"s have stronger outer axles. A stage 1 front will bolt straight in if you can find one (but is 3.54:1 so need to swap diffs).

However - there are lots of other options like fitting upgraded axles and diff centres to your existing axle housings (e.g. Jacmac, MD, rovertracks, etc), toyota centres and custom axles to existing housings, complete toyota or nissan axles, etc...

[Newbs-IIA]

Don't they make maxi-drive axles/lockers to suit series rovers?
I know they go well in rangies

[cmurray]

Personally, I would look for a MacNamara bolt operated diff lock, this will stiffen the diff centre up, so you are less likely to the crown wheel and pinion, also, you upgrade to 24 spline axles. If you hunt around, you might be able to pick one up for a couple of hundred bucks.

If you want to go to 33"s for extra clearance under the diff, then it is a waste of time if you put a Salisbury in, as you end up with about the same clearance as with 7.50x16's. My brother in law put a Salisbury in a Series 2 88, and put 255/85x16's BFG muddies on it, and was quite disappointed when my 86" series one would go everywhere he could, and further with 7.50x16 SAT's and a MacNamara bolt diff lock.

[andies landies]

I belive maxi-drive axles are still available although maxi drives have closed. They are much, much better!

If used sympathetically (engaged IF traction is likely to be lost rather WHEN it is already lost) I belive a locker saves axles rather than giving them a harder time. They usually seem to break or stress fracture (then break for apparently no reason a bit later) when a wheel spins then suddenly gets grip.

Andrew

[Rangier Rover]

For the Maxi axles try
Hi’Tough Engineering
Ph: 07 5530 4123
Fax:07 5530 6312
Unit 3, No 7 Ryecroft St
Carrara, QLD, 4211

[Dauntless]

Awesome, thanks for the info everyone. For now I've decided to go with 235/85s (either BFG MT or Yoko MT+) on 16x6.5 Defender rims. Ideally I'd like to keep the Rover diffs, and use Maxi Drive axles and some sort of diff locks, preferably manually locked/unlocked.

[UncleHo]

G'day Dauntless :)

The major problem with the earlier Landrovers breaking axles were 2 reasons, 1- the axle is designed as the weak point (it broke before the diff or gearbox) 2- if the drive ends (axle end plates) are worn and there is play between axle spline & drive plate the shock load will shear the axle;) before you go to major modifications I would be upgrading the brakes from 10" inch SWB ones to 11"inch LWB ones, and the larger 1"inch bore Mastercylinder, which will give greatly improved stopping ability :) as these vehicle have 1950's type brakes which is well below the standard of the current cars/trucks the upgrade with booster will give efficient braking:)

cheers

[Dauntless]

G'day Dauntless :)

The major problem with the earlier Landrovers breaking axles were 2 reasons, 1- the axle is designed as the weak point (it broke before the diff or gearbox) 2- if the drive ends (axle end plates) are worn and there is play between axle spline & drive plate the shock load will shear the axle;) before you go to major modifications I would be upgrading the brakes from 10" inch SWB ones to 11"inch LWB ones, and the larger 1"inch bore Mastercylinder, which will give greatly improved stopping ability :) as these vehicle have 1950's type brakes which is well below the standard of the current cars/trucks the upgrade with booster will give efficient braking:)

cheers
Hey mate. I don't plan on doing any major mods to the vehicle. I do plan to upgrade to 11" brakes, as the brakes need to be done anyway. Did the 109's have a booster? Can I use a non boosted master cylinder with 11" brakes effectively? Is it all a direct fit?

[UncleHo]

G'day Dauntless :)

Yes, you can use the unboosted LWB Master Cylinder on the Shorty, it will stop it a lot better that it did the LWB ;) (Yes it is a direct fit) that is what I have on my LWB (the one in my avatar) you can also fit the Series 3 Boosted Master Cylinder,in single line form, your very late 2a should have a cut-away section in the right guard that accomodates the booster, you can change the entire brake pedal box assembly over, by just unbolting it from under the dash, (6 bolts) lift, 1/4 turn, and you have the complete pedal,M/cyl, booster assembly:D that's is what I have got to do in the coming months as I have recently aquired a Series 3 duel line boosted system to fit into mine, a little more work to fit as mine is a 68 and I have to change the guard top to the cut-away type :)

cheers

[Dauntless]

OK thanks. This is what it looks like now:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/04/543.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/04/544.jpg

[UncleHo]

G'day Dauntless :)

You have the cut-away guard :D that is the enlarged cutout to take the booster, That is a nice original unmolested engine bay:D as I can remember these when new, it is interesting to note that the SWB hasn't got the Anti-Pollution stuff that was fitted to the LWB's but has the Ser 3type radiator, overflow bottle, and windscreen washers as required by the then ADR's (does it have reversing lights??)

You may have to move the existing Master Cylinder around on it's bracket so that you have space to fit the booster brake assy, and block off the brake fluid outlet on it, or you could change the Clutch Master Cylinder to the Series 3 type with it's own reservoir:) (that could also come from the donor vehicle) it' the same size but it just has it's own built in reservoir.

This looks like a very nice original vehicle and would make a very nice restored truck and daily driver, it is hard to find one as original as that now, and so straight too, with your tyre choice you could go to the wider tyres, but on a SWB you will get a bit of "Bump Steer" it might be worth trying 7.50 x 16 LWB tyres on 5.5 rims (272309) as the SWB's had 5.00 rims with 6.00 X 16's on then from new, unless 7.50's were requested:)


cheers

[Dauntless]

Hey mate.

OK, that is good news. It doesn't have reversing lights unfortunately. I have just bought 16x6.5 Defender rims, and will fit 235/85's to them. They aren't much wider than 7.50's so I shouldn't have any problems there?