View Full Version : The house or the defender?
aloa9061
19th March 2008, 09:08 AM
Hey guys,
Just bought a new house. The garage is a double tandem with an inspection pit and workbenches at the back!
Problem:
Roof 2.05 m Defender currently 2.3 m!
What do I do?
Buy a set of old 29 disco tires and rims for when I want to work on the car or modify the garage?
Garage door is easily removed and remounted higher but the cross beams in the garage would need to be removed and rebolted higher up the rafters.
fraser130
19th March 2008, 09:41 AM
Change the house.
Only need to do that once, changing wheels everytime you want to work on the car will get really tedious.
But you knew the answer to begin with, didn't you??:D:D:D
Fraser
Diego Luego
19th March 2008, 09:51 AM
How did your 'fender get so tall? What are you feeding it? Mine's only 2.05 (without roofracks) - still wouldn't fit though.
weeds
19th March 2008, 09:55 AM
the house
Dave_S
19th March 2008, 10:02 AM
When I was renting I used to let my tyres down so I could crawl into the garage, then pump them back up on weekends. It got real old real fast.
I'd modify the house. Just go way bigger than you think you need to. Also, try to put in a longditudinal "I" beam with pulley block down the centre so you can easily move engines/gearboxes/axle assemblies/pianos up and down with almost no hassle.
kermit31
19th March 2008, 10:06 AM
Very simple lower the ground level ???
loanrangie
19th March 2008, 10:42 AM
Very simple lower the ground level ???
Now theres a thought, dig it out so you drive down and in.
aloa9061
19th March 2008, 10:58 AM
Lower floor?
Maybe not!
The issues are:
Sloping concrete driveway into Garage:
Hardyplank cladding - need to move one plank and refit roller door 2/3 inches up.
Roof is Triangle shape with beams sitting on frame of the house and cross beams across the garage.
Building inspector reconned cutting the cross beams making them an inch or so shorter and rebolting a couple of inches up the roofing beams?
Anybody see any issues with this?
My other question is will the roller door have the excess space to roll further down?
dobbo
19th March 2008, 11:06 AM
Lower floor
Dig out two channel for the wheels to sit in, 2 inches deep. 1 day job with a jackhammer and an angle grinder with cutting disc for thew reo
easo
19th March 2008, 11:13 AM
Sell the fender and get a series, then you can un-bolt the series roof. Plently of room then.;):p
fraser130
19th March 2008, 11:15 AM
A garage with a pit, I'm green with envy!!!
Off to Cooma.....................Now
Byeeeeee!
Tusker
19th March 2008, 12:28 PM
Kitchen? Nope. Bathroom? Nope. Straight into the garage mods, sod the house. Good stuff.
Seriously it has to be raise the roof. Lift it enough so you can take the roofrack off with a block & tackle, & secure it up there.
One-person operation then.
Regards
Max P
dobbo
19th March 2008, 12:39 PM
A barn door and some of them expensive spring loaded hinges that raise and angle the door upwards when opened.
Hucksta
19th March 2008, 12:53 PM
G'day Mate,
I can tell you now that the tyre changing thing will war thin very quickly, I had a similar problem with a tandem box trailer under a carport and I used to let the tyres down and then pump them back up, that gave me the S%$#S real quick, forget it.
Options would be to modify the roof of your garage or as i read earlier maybe put two grooves in your floor for tyres to run along, without seeing your setup it's hard to make say. But the tyre groove thing would be fairly easy to do providing your floor set up allows for it. Jack hammer the slab, dig out dirt, lay more concrete, sounds ok. You may want to think if this will cause other issues though, like jack space under your car or other little bits like that.
Good luck...
Lotz-A-Landies
19th March 2008, 01:00 PM
...Roof is Triangle shape with beams sitting on frame of the house and cross beams across the garage.
Building inspector reconned cutting the cross beams making them an inch or so shorter and rebolting a couple of inches up the roofing beams?
Anybody see any issues with this?
My other question is will the roller door have the excess space to roll further down?
Sounds like your roof is a truss roof ( a series of "triangles" each made up of 2 rafters and a purlin braced and gang nailed together) with each separate truss sitting on the top plate of the wall frames.
Which way do the trusses run? Across the garage of front to back?
Across is better for your needs.
The problem is for moving the purlin (the bottom element) up is that it is the one part that is keeping the truss frame together and the apex of the roof where it should be. The stress in a purlin is in extension.
You should not remove it and move it up. It would be possible to fix/bolt a new purlin at a higher position, but you need to do that before cutting the original.
You will also have a problem where the truss sits on the top plate, as the purlin is used as the base. Cutting the purlin may make the support of the roof unstable. You may have to brace the stump of the purlin at each end.
What is the head over the door made of? This is important as the head may also be supporting the roof. If necessary you could use a steel lintel which will use less head room than a timber boxed head.
Me thinks that you need a builder, or at least a building framer to do the job safely.
For the roller door, if there isn't enough length, you can fit an extension to the bottom, which you may need to hinge to clear the top of the Deefer!
Diana
aloa9061
19th March 2008, 01:11 PM
thanks for that,
Truss sounds right. They run across the Garage.
So for safety a builder would be best and they will need to brace the ends and stop them moving whilst placing another cross piece further up the triangle to stop it moving before any mods.
What about putting the cross member in. Cutting a defender sixed whole in the middle bars and then bolting to top cross member?
The door is bolted to wooden side supports with just hardy plank abvoe it.
The door comes with adjustable mounting points
isuzurover
19th March 2008, 01:20 PM
Why not post a few pics - will be easier to see what you mean.
aloa9061
19th March 2008, 04:08 PM
Will post pics once I get keys
George130
19th March 2008, 05:01 PM
Dig down and gu up:twisted:.
It's a big job but you can do it. It's easier with a metal shed. Father in laws shed is a monster. Neighbours still remeber the day they left for work to come home and discover the shed had grown a lot taller.
agrojnr
19th March 2008, 05:17 PM
Work on the fender outside thats what i do with the disco
Adam
loanrangie
19th March 2008, 06:04 PM
Dig down and gu up:twisted:.
It's a big job but you can do it. It's easier with a metal shed. Father in laws shed is a monster. Neighbours still remeber the day they left for work to come home and discover the shed had grown a lot taller.
Sounds like my parents garage, it was built first and their friends would comment on how fast the house was going up, Dad would look at them puzzled and say " the house, we havent started building it yet " . 12 car garage with self contained flat on one end - my big bro and i were in heaven.
aloa9061
19th March 2008, 06:32 PM
Work on the fender outside thats what i do with the disco
Adam
Guess you kinda missed the description of sloping driveway and inspection pit in the garage!
Lotz-A-Landies
19th March 2008, 07:45 PM
Dig down and go up:twisted:.
It's a big job but you can do it. It's easier with a metal shed. Father in laws shed is a monster. Neighbours still remeber the day they left for work to come home and discover the shed had grown a lot taller.
George
Not such a silly suggestion.
My father and I jacked up a 15' X 20' wheatherboard shed using a couple of Hi-Lift jacks. Lifted up one side first then raised the footings and lowered the bottom plate onto the new footings and then did the other side. It meant that we were able to put the tractor under cover.
Both sides, across and the diagonals of the shed were reinforced with extra bracings before we did it but it only took the 2 of us to do.
Diana
amtravic1
20th March 2008, 06:21 AM
If the roof is a truss roof then the bottom cord cannot be altered. The trusses are engineered and built as 1 unit. Do not alter them.
If you have a normal pitched roof with ceiling joists or collar ties bolted or nailed acroos the width of the span then there should be no problem lifting the structural pieces higher. (these stop the outside walls from spreading apart with the roof load on it) What type of roofing is there. If there is roof tiles I would be very careful, roofing iron is much lighter.
Pictures would be handy.
Ian
agrojnr
20th March 2008, 10:51 AM
Guess you kinda missed the description of sloping driveway and inspection pit in the garage!
Nope saw that :D
It just sounds like our place:eek:
Adam
aloa9061
28th April 2008, 10:15 AM
Hi guys,
Well the defender fits.....
only issue is I took the roofrack off and let the back tires down to 5psi!!!
Anyway the pit worksa treat so I now have fresh oils in everything.
My architect recons the roof mod should be much a problem now just need to find the time to do it!
Cheers
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