2A wont start!!Help

[bent]

Afternoon guru's:D

My 2a (1968 petrol)wont start. The back ground is I have had the car for some time but have never had it going untill recently. Unregistered so moving it to a mechanic is a bit of a pain.

The problem is thus:

1. Was running badly, misfiring, poor idle
2. I timed the motor to 6deg and set the point gap and dizy setting as per the manual
3. Motor ran badly, still some misfiring but when adjusting the mixure screw on the carby - made no differnce
4. I had the carby rebuilt (quite a few problems with it)
5. Fitted carby and the car ran realy well but if stoped wont start unless you leave it sit for a while, then it is really hard to get going again.
6. Cannot get the car started at all now. Does not even sound like starting
7. Re checked timing, points etc,

At a complete loss as to the problem. Any one got any suggestions or convrsley know a mobile landrove mechanic in Brisbane??

Thanks folks, most appreciated

Cheers

Ben

[Blknight.aus]

have you actually got spark to the individual pistons? grab a spare plug, earth it and hook the HT lead to it first direct from the coil and then to the pots one at a time.

this works best if you crank it over by hand as then you have max volts arriving at the coil.

If you have no spark coming out of the coil you might have something as simple as a short circuted or open circuted condensor or a brake in the wiring somewhere, have you mulitmetered the coil yet?

are you getting fuel to the carby? to check this take the horn(filter) off of the top of the carby and look down the throat while you whip open the throttle by pulling the linkage. If you get no fuel you have something wrong with the supply part of the carby or the fuel system, take the fuel line off of the carby and manually pump or crank the engine over and see if you get fuel coming from the line. If you dont its time to fault find the supply system.

Check this stuff out and get back to us and we'll see whats next.

Im fairly mobile as a mechanic depending on where your located can probabley do a late night run tonight.


Pm me or check your PMs for my phone number and give us a call, Im about due for some series spanner twirling. Best thing Is I can claim this repair job under ignition systems which I still have owing on my workbook.

[Dinty]

G'day All, Well Dave get your *** **** down here and give my 6 Series vehicles a tweak prior to Anzac Day;):p:D:p:p:p cause I'm no mekanic just ask NM LOL cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS B&B provided...

[Blknight.aus]

Buddy If Id've known Ida stopped in on the way back and done it over night I only just got back from newcastle and diverting to cessnock would have only added 50ks to the trip and given me a decent rest place.

If you like and can get me a drivers seat I'll see IF i can get thursday off to head down with the Kin service your vehicles and drive em as part of my ANZAC commitment. Remind me for next year and I'll make it happen.

[UncleHo]

G'day Bent :)

What sort of carby have you got on it, Solex, Zenith 36IV or Holden, if it is a Solex or Zenith, the mixture is OUT = Richer IN = weaker
On a Holden Carby it is the OPPOSITE :eek: In = Richer, OUT = Weaker ;)

if you are getting no fuel through, take the air intake off and tip about a Table spoon full of fuel down it, then try to start, if it coughs a bit then it is fuel supply, check if the fuel pump is working, and if the glass bowl at the side of the fuel pump is not full of gunk or sucking in air, as there is a cork or rubber gasket between the glass bowl and the pump, if it is sucking air then you won't be getting fuel to the Carby, this is a semi-common problem, and yes, the cork/rubber gaskets are still available, you can undo the little knerled nut at the bottom of the glass, move the holder to the side and remove the glass to clean it.

Hope that is of some help.

cheers

[Newbs-IIA]

how do you multimeter test a coil to see if it's good or not? I am familar with the use of a multimeter.

Sorry for thread hi-jacking, I think my coil is goooonnee....

[bent]

Hi all

Further to this little problem. I have got it started, sounds good when running, but once stoped, verry difficult to get going again. I am thinking it has to do with fuel mixture or carby related.

cheers

Ben

[Blknight.aus]

how do you multimeter test a coil to see if it's good or not? I am familar with the use of a multimeter.

Sorry for thread hi-jacking, I think my coil is goooonnee....

probe the -ve to the +ve terminals and you should get something less than 1 ohm

Either terminal to the lead socket and you should get lots and lots of ohms

do it with the coil free standing AFTER youve shorted the 2 terminals together.

thats all off the top of my head.

[dandlandyman]

1. Try replacing the condenser. I got badly stuck with this problem once, middle of nowhere. Lucky I carry plenty of bits. not great for fuel economy, granted, but I prefer to have it and not need it, to needing it and not having it.
2. Check the coil. No series Landy uses a resisted (R suffix) coil. Also make sure the polarity is correct (earth side to coil).
3. Silicone suppression leads do have a limited lifespan. Wire leads also do but tend to last longer, even though they do cause interference. Change them if in doubt, cheap insurance.
4. As a last resort, change the plugs. I had a bit little trouble with W8DC Bosch plugs in my 4cyl series 3, but Champion N12s fixed that. Bosch W6DCs work quite well in my 4cyl 2a though.
5. You could also look for damage and wear in the distributor rotor button and cap. This seems to usually cause a sudden stop, though.
As for fuel supply, check fuel pump valves, diaphragm, and screen in the fuel bowl. Fairly rare for the tank pickup to block up. Carby could be sticky, but see if fuel lift pump gets fuel up there before trying that.
Sounds like good fun, good luck with it.

[Aaron IIA]

Judging by the fact that you say it starts, but when you stop it and go to re-start it is very hard, I would suspect the coil. If the coil is on the way out, it was work when cold, but after being used for a short while, will not re-start the engine. Check the coil, by opening and closing the points with an insulator (wood or plastic, this stops you from earthing the points, or you could have an assistant turn the engine over) and checking for a spark by holding the coil lead (distributor end) slightly away from earth (the block will suffice). You need to be getting a bright blue crisp spark about 10mm long. A 5mm spark is weak, and a yellow furry spark also indicates problems.
Aaron.

[chazza]

I support Aaron's thoughts about the coil; well worth checking and check it first!

Another cause of poor starting when hot, can be a rich mixture. Make sure the choke really is off, by inspecting the butterfly when the control is pushed in. Also make sure that the mixture needle is set in the correct place; when the engine is running, get someone to rev the engine in blips while you inspect the exhaust pipe for black smoke. Make sure that the air cleaner isn't blocked, or disconnect it while you attempt to start.

You say the carburettor has been rebuilt; what exactly has been done to it? Could it be that something has been installed back to front such as a gasket? Were all of the jets blown out with compressed air?

Cheers Charlie

[Aaron IIA]

Another thing that I just thought of. When an engine is warm, some engines like to be started with the carburetter held wide open until they fire. When you depress the throttle, the accelerator pump squirts petrol into the manifold, so when you open the throttle, hold it open, don't pump it.
Aaron.

[UncleHo]

G'day Aaron 11A :)

:eek: when mine is warm I can start it by just turning the key (hitting the starter) no throttle, when cold 1 light pump 1/4 pedal, then start, hand throttle on fast idle, havent used the choke for years,(in Qld) and it is not running rich

cheers

[muddy]

Ben
Have you got a 8 volt coil with a resistor in series with the coil if so try shorting it out when restarting --could be a high resistance short in that part of the circuit.