Oil burning shed heaters

[db65boxer]

I find diesel is the go for both the oil burner and wood fire in the house, I collect during the warmer months, (drain all the fuel filters from vehicles I service) and usually have enough to get me through winter. generally I get more smoke from the wood fire

db

[ozzirt]

I think that because I am using such a large pan (maybe 12"-14" across) and a 150mm secondary burn chamber, I have to have a bit of fire in the pan for it to happen. I used the crappiest oil I could get on the w/e, it was from a 40000km engine and was like treacle! Took a bit to get going using my soaked rag technique (have no diesal but will try that when I get some) but even so, no worse smoke than a wood fire.
I also had to crack the pan to get some additional air with this oil, but when started, it was clean as.:D It is also quiet! No induction noise or whistling at all which makes me thinks that it is not quite right and is only 'idling'. It does choof badly though if I leave the wrong amount of air holes open!

I have used waste trans fluid, easier to light but not as good, and now the treacle stuff, it burns well.
As for economy, I filled a 4.5 kg gas bottle, with oil, I reckon about 5-6 litres? and got around 5-6 hours burn so not to bad. In that time it heated a 44 gal drum of water from tap to 'to hot to put ya hand in'.

I find that I do have to have a decent pool of oil in the pan though, probably a cup or two for it to work best.

Pics to follow
Cheers
RalphIf it works and the emissions are not so noticeable as to attract attention, you must have it pretty right. A consumption of about a litre an hour is definitely "only idling". I use about 2.5-3 lph in cold weather.


This is only a shed heater, I have not yet convinced the Mrs it is worth replacing the wood heater as yet although if I were to stop bringing in the wood things might change :eek: (probably be finding a new place to live).

I will try a bit of Kero or Diesel when I start it next so at least it wont smell too much different from me starting the wood fire or the Disco :D. I got mine inside as a result of circumstances beyond my control. I'd been running tests indoors to see exactly how much heat it produced when I was called back to work unexpectedly (for six weeks). Fortunately our teenaged son sussed out how to work it while I was away and even though it was still very agricultural looking at the time, "the Little Woman" was starting to see some of the advantages of not having to bring in barrow loads of wood, nor spend half of my leave out collecting and cutting wood.

By the time I was due to return to work I had done a few cosmetic improvements and a number of visitors had commented favourably, so it remained even though TLW is a bit "windy" about lighting and adjusting it. Her only real dislike is cleaning the ash out of the pan as it can be a grubby job requiring the use of a hammer and purpose built chisel.

[Casper]

I got mine inside as a result of circumstances beyond my control. I'd been running tests indoors to see exactly how much heat it produced when I was called back to work unexpectedly (for six weeks). Fortunately our teenaged son sussed out how to work it while I was away and even though it was still very agricultural looking at the time, "the Little Woman" was starting to see some of the advantages of not having to bring in barrow loads of wood, nor spend half of my leave out collecting and cutting wood.

By the time I was due to return to work I had done a few cosmetic improvements and a number of visitors had commented favourably, so it remained even though TLW is a bit "windy" about lighting and adjusting it. Her only real dislike is cleaning the ash out of the pan as it can be a grubby job requiring the use of a hammer and purpose built chisel.

Well seems I work from home these days, I don't think that one will work for me.

I will work out some way to do it though one day :D

[ozzirt]

Well seems I work from home these days, I don't think that one will work for me.

I will work out some way to do it though one day :DThat's the spirit,... Haha. I'll send flowers to the hospital:D

[ozzirt]

I have a warning about a potential problem that I recently discovered, for all you oil heater fanatics.

If you use old automotive paint thinners to light up, don't throw any of the slops in your main oil tank. Much to my amazement I have discovered that some thinners and some particular oils do not mix well. They congeal into a thick heavy sludge that will block your oil strainers and metering valve.

Several months ago i had about 8 litres of thinners that i could not fit in my tank where i store my lighting up fluid so i threw it into my main storage tank. I already had several hundred litres in the header tanks and so I never bothered pumping up any oil for a week or so, but when I did I had the Mother of all blockages, in my final strainer.

At the time I never connected the two happenings and it took me several hours to very gently pressurise my header tanks and force out about 10-15 litres of thick goo, like half set tar.

Today I decided to clean up one of my drip trays that I had used when I did the job, as it still had about 500ml of oil in it. To do this I added a similar amount of thinners out of the drum and lo and behold, the oil would not disolve, in fact it went exactly the same as the sludge I'd cleaned out of my strainers when they blocked up.

I don't know whether it's a change in the thinners or something in the oil, they both look the same and smell the same. Unfortunately both are mixtures of all sorts. so it's not possible to work out exactly what is reacting with what.

So just be careful.

[rovercare]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/776.jpg (http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/Rovercare/?action=view&current=IMG_0113.mp4)

[rovercare]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/770.jpg

It gets the most questions out of anything that's ever in the shed:D

Anyway, I'e learnt, the sanders is pretty grotty till its on song, the oil MUST be clean of debri, as the reg clogs up often, 2YO's and buckets on the ground do not allow for this

I just need to sort a few more things when I have the time and it'll be a treat, my shed is 72'x30'x14' uninsulated and when this puppy goes out in the mid of the night, I go to be, it does an awseome job of keeping the place at a workable temperature......with free fuel:angel:

I wouldn't put a Sanders in a house but:eek:

[ozzirt]

That's a large volume to heat, and if it does what you want,... it's beautiful. :D

[Ralph1Malph]

Update:
I let it sit all over summer and dusted it off a few weeks ago.
This contraption is working well except for one thing that I am buggered if I can solve and one improvement I am trying to make.
I can light it and have it clean burning in about 2 minutes! That I am grateful for. I pour about a litre of oil into the pan, toss in a few splashes of metho and light. Gets going real easy.
I am trying to stop it choofing. I have experimented with less oil, more oil and many air combinations. I can lessen it but not eliminate it. From what I observe, it is caused by too much vapour that eventually ignites in the primary pan or on the way to the secondary chamber. Flame licks out of the secondary chamber and is followed by the choof and a bit of smoke/vapour. So to reduce the amount of vapour, I tryed putting a pan inside the pan. Placed the bottom inch of a 4.5 kg gas bottle inside the main pan with a cupful of oil and lit it up. Could not get any clean burn at all! Damn!
There is a sweet spot where the choof is acceptably minimal, but it seems to be when the entire bottom of the pan is covered in oil and burning (to generate just the right amount of vapour I guess). About 2 cups I reckon. I haven't yet sorted the oil delivery system so thats my next challenge to reduce the amount of oil in the pan and replenish it accurately.

BTW, it gets damn hot! Enough to peel the rust flakes off and send the rims a charcoal colour. You see the heat radiating.
I am also giving up on the pool heater idea and just gunna use it to heat my patio when its built.
Can't find my pics but there are some in an earlier post.

Cheers
Ralph

[jazzaD1]

It is bloody cold in Ballarat this time of year, the shed is no fun to be in, mine is only 5x9m or so, with a 2m roof height or so, I have an old compressor tank, its 24L off a supercheap compressor, i was thinking about turning that into a waste oil heater

I don't get a whole lot of time to work in the shed, but I think I'd make more time if i had a way of heating it

what are everyone's thoughts? where should I start?

[ozzirt]

Update:
I let it sit all over summer and dusted it off a few weeks ago.
This contraption is working well except for one thing that I am buggered if I can solve and one improvement I am trying to make.
I can light it and have it clean burning in about 2 minutes! That I am grateful for. I pour about a litre of oil into the pan, toss in a few splashes of metho and light. Gets going real easy.
I am trying to stop it choofing. I have experimented with less oil, more oil and many air combinations. I can lessen it but not eliminate it. From what I observe, it is caused by too much vapour that eventually ignites in the primary pan or on the way to the secondary chamber. Flame licks out of the secondary chamber and is followed by the choof and a bit of smoke/vapour. So to reduce the amount of vapour, I tryed putting a pan inside the pan. Placed the bottom inch of a 4.5 kg gas bottle inside the main pan with a cupful of oil and lit it up. Could not get any clean burn at all! Damn!
There is a sweet spot where the choof is acceptably minimal, but it seems to be when the entire bottom of the pan is covered in oil and burning (to generate just the right amount of vapour I guess). About 2 cups I reckon. I haven't yet sorted the oil delivery system so thats my next challenge to reduce the amount of oil in the pan and replenish it accurately.

BTW, it gets damn hot! Enough to peel the rust flakes off and send the rims a charcoal colour. You see the heat radiating.
I am also giving up on the pool heater idea and just gunna use it to heat my patio when its built.
Can't find my pics but there are some in an earlier post.

Cheers
Ralph
G'Day Ralph, Yep,... the prodigal son has returned.:D

The "choofing" is called "Panting" and indicates a lack of air in the mix, or more to the point in your case, an excess of vapourised fuel.

I'd say your problem is caused by having too much surface area of fuel exposed to radiant heat. There are two possible ways to tackle this, the first being to limit the primary air intake into the pan which will reduce the heat in ther and thereby reduce the vapourisation. The second is to drip (trickle) feed your fuel so that the fuel area subject to radiant heat is kept relatively small.

I feel that the second option would have the greatest chance of success and give you the greatest control. It's all to do with the fuel to air ratio.

[Ralph1Malph]

G'Day Ralph, Yep,... the prodigal son has returned.:D

The "choofing" is called "Panting" and indicates a lack of air in the mix, or more to the point in your case, an excess of vapourised fuel.

I'd say your problem is caused by having too much surface area of fuel exposed to radiant heat. There are two possible ways to tackle this, the first being to limit the primary air intake into the pan which will reduce the heat in ther and thereby reduce the vapourisation. The second is to drip (trickle) feed your fuel so that the fuel area subject to radiant heat is kept relatively small.

I feel that the second option would have the greatest chance of success and give you the greatest control. It's all to do with the fuel to air ratio.

Hi,
Thanks. I think you are right. I have to get a reliable oil metering and delivery system happening. As it is now, I am trying to pull it apart so I can derust and paint with pot belly black , so no progress. I thought restricting the oil to a 5-6 inch pool by using the bottom bit of a gas bottle would do this but I just couldn't get any vapourisation at all.
I like the idea of getting it going then replenishing the oil right into the radiant heat in a smaller controlled qty.
It will be a few more weeks before I can work on it again so I'll keep you posted.

Ralph

[GJN]

great posts and pics, helped me a lot while planning the construction of my oil burner :)

[Ralph1Malph]

great posts and pics, helped me a lot while planning the construction of my oil burner :)
Does yours work well?
I'd love some pics and design.
I am seriously thinking about converting mine to wood :(.

Ralph

[rovercare]

Just hunting around for a dosing pump, I think I'm gonna go forced air and change burner setup and automate, try and eliminate soot

[rovercare]

Not sure if I posted this

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/Rovercare/D421CD3C-D5DE-4EBA-9974-769EA71959B6-448-0000013B75FCFAC1_zps4eca8383.mp4

http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/Rovercare/?action=view&current=D421CD3C-D5DE-4EBA-9974-769EA71959B6-448-0000013B75FCFAC1_zps4eca8383.mp4&evt=user_media_share

[jazzaD1]

i always forget about building one of these until winter is already here!

[Ralph1Malph]

Not sure if I posted this

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/Rovercare/D421CD3C-D5DE-4EBA-9974-769EA71959B6-448-0000013B75FCFAC1_zps4eca8383.mp4

D421CD3C-D5DE-4EBA-9974-769EA71959B6-448-0000013B75FCFAC1_zps4eca8383.mp4 Video by Rovercare | Photobucket (http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r107/Rovercare/?action=view&current=D421CD3C-D5DE-4EBA-9974-769EA71959B6-448-0000013B75FCFAC1_zps4eca8383.mp4&evt=user_media_share)


Goddamn!

[rovercare]

Going to look at krill kosy units, new they are $4250, but found a dude who does not use his, was existing in a shop and they give up trying to use it, bundle of cash may help him part with it:D

[rovercare]

Going to look at krill kosy units, new they are $4250, but found a dude who does not use his, was existing in a shop and they give up trying to use it, bundle of cash may help him part with it:D




People like cash for things they don't know about and I like bargains!:D

Anyone want my old Sanders? I think to alleviate the soot problem all you need is baffling for the flue to settle the fly ash, stop it heading directly out and it would work fine..............now I realise after i strip down a Commercially made unit:(

[rovercare]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/370.jpg (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/Rovercare/media/6226C18C-0891-495A-A00C-A3B5F62B8462-1887-000005122F742076_zpsd36886ab.jpg.html)

[rovercare]

Not much interest on oil heaters anymore!

It's not as good as the old one, in the heat it produces, but geez it's easy!

Last night it maintained 14*C at the area within about 6M from the unit, it was 7*C outside, it's also quite warm near the unit, it maintained this till 2 in the morn, done much the same tonight, but turned in a little earlier tonight:D

[tracker]

Not much interest on oil heaters anymore!


I'm reading this post with the idea of making a oil burner to heat our spa in winter.(rs back)
Got plenty of oil just need to get started.
Thanks to all posters,it helps.
cheers

[Vern]

Why, just buy a heat pump. I'm looking at putting evacuated tubes on mine as well as the heat pump, should cost basically nothing to heat:)

[tracker]

Why, just buy a heat pump. I'm looking at putting evacuated tubes on mine as well as the heat pump, should cost basically nothing to heat:)
I use solar during summer,with solar controller and small pump.
Being above 800mts above sea level winter is a different kettle of fish:p

[p38arover]

After a few years of procrastination and procuring parts, I've made a start. I had been using the secondhand 6" flue I'd bought with a wood heater I also bought off eBay but a recent acquisition of an old small water heater from Scouse got me motivated.

I bought an aluminium dish and needle valve off Roger Sanders but now I see some of you have melted yours. :( I don't want to melt it as those two items cost more than everything else.

I had been slowed up by trying to work out how to put a 6" flue onto the heater. I made up a cardboard template and a friend's son, who is a boilermaker with his own business, made the adapter up in steel. I welded it on, cut a circular hole in it (with a cutting disc in an angle grinder) and added a 6" ring to drop the flue over.

I've been testing it with wood I have for the other heater which has now been removed.

Next job is to do the oil feed. I did buy a glass bowl gauze screen oil filter but I'm wondering if it might be too fine a mesh.

But, has anyone had problems with their council. It's ok for you blokes in the country but I'm in a Sydney suburb. I checked my council's website and they only mention requiring approval for wood burners. Very likely an oversight but I am not gunna tell them! :angel:

The temperatures reached by the oil heater look a bit scary for where I currently have the heater for testing. The longer term would see it moved further away from the timber wall frames.

I'll post pics this afternoon when I get home.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

why the sudden need for a warm shed Ronald?
been a naughty boy again?:angel::p

[p38arover]

More so I have a place to where I can escape, Pedro. :D

[Tank]

After a few years of procrastination and procuring parts, I've made a start. I had been using the secondhand 6" flue I'd bought with a wood heater I also bought off eBay but a recent acquisition of an old small water heater from Scouse got me motivated.

I bought an aluminium dish and needle valve off Roger Sanders but now I see some of you have melted yours. :( I don't want to melt it as those two items cost more than everything else.

I had been slowed up by trying to work out how to put a 6" flue onto the heater. I made up a cardboard template and a friend's son, who is a boilermaker with his own business, made the adapter up in steel. I welded it on, cut a circular hole in it (with a cutting disc in an angle grinder) and added a 6" ring to drop the flue over.

I've been testing it with wood I have for the other heater which has now been removed.

Next job is to do the oil feed. I did buy a glass bowl gauze screen oil filter but I'm wondering if it might be too fine a mesh.

But, has anyone had problems with their council. It's ok for you blokes in the country but I'm in a Sydney suburb. I checked my council's website and they only mention requiring approval for wood burners. Very likely an oversight but I am not gunna tell them! :angel:

The temperatures reached by the oil heater look a bit scary for where I currently have the heater for testing. The longer term would see it moved further away from the timber wall frames.

I'll post pics this afternoon when I get home.
Ron if you have a wood heater and it doesn't meet AS4013 or have council approval and it burns your house/shed down then your house/shed and contents insurance is null and void, expensive heater, Regards Frank.

[p38arover]

The wood heater that I have just pulled out is a commercial unit but it probably doesn't meet AS.

This is the unit just removed and which will be on eBay this week.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77151&stc=1&d=1399870051

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77152&stc=1&d=1399870051

This is the modified water heater. You can see the chimney adapter I had made. The 4 inch hole in the middle is for the air inlet tube sitting behind the heater. That's a bit of truck exhaust pipe.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77153&stc=1&d=1399870175

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77154&stc=1&d=1399870198

Temporary chimney flue, 6". The chimney temp is quite low - around 60 deg C and lower where it passes through the wall. I have fibro sheeting between the flue and the wood.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77155&stc=1&d=1399870332

[p38arover]

My door hinge welding is a bit rough. I'll put a cover plate over that hole.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77156&stc=1&d=1399870572

I've cut off the threaded pipework spigots and plated over those. I've left one in case I want to fit a pyrometer.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77157&stc=1&d=1399870679

This is the filter water trap I was going to use.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77158&stc=1&d=1399870737

The needle valve and burner from Roger Sanders.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=77159&stc=1&d=1399870805

[Tank]

If you want to sell your old heater it is illegal to do so if it doesn't have the AS4013 compliance plate and whoever buys it won't be able to legally install it, good luck, Regards Frank.

[p38arover]

I understand, Frank, but there are a heck of a lot of old wood burning heaters on eBay. I can only find references to selling new complying solid fuel heaters, not used heaters (in NSW).

[p38arover]

Well, I tried my new heater on oil tonight. It wasn't a great success.

There was a lot of smoke and the heater didn't really get very hot. At one stage, the casing was at about 250 deg C around the burner height.

For the test I was dribbling the oil down the central feed pipe to the burner pan. Maybe I'll have to set up the feed with the needle valve.

I'm not sure if I have sufficient chimney flue height (see pics in a previous post).

I'm testing at night to hide the smoke.

[rovercare]

People like cash for things they don't know about and I like bargains!:D

Anyone want my old Sanders? I think to alleviate the soot problem all you need is baffling for the flue to settle the fly ash, stop it heading directly out and it would work fine..............now I realise after i strip down a Commercially made unit:(

You will need to do this

Also they are tedious to get running, dribbling oil down will not cut it, you need to sort your oil supply properly

[Pedro_The_Swift]

:eek:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/741.jpg

[p38arover]

Re baffling, my flue has a bend through the wall. That may impede airflow.



Also they are tedious to get running, dribbling oil down will not cut it, you need to sort your oil supply properly

I think you are right. Probably too tedious for my application. I can easily convert it to a wood fire.

The two attempts at firing it have left a thick goo in the burner, not a dry ash.

However, as I have the needle valve, I might as well give it a bit more testing.

[p38arover]

I'm starting to think the Sanders design in my modified smaller format isn't going to work.

I set up the oil supply and needle valve but the fire doesn't get very hot and it is very easy to have it blow out and stop burning. In the end I had a pool of oil in the firebox and had to change over to a wood fire to burn it all out (after removing the aluminium burner). The burner is left with quite a bit of gluggy sludge, not clean ash.

The system is rather messy as one works on it and spills oil.

I can only test it at night as the smoke from the chimney when burning oil is a bit too obvious.

The max temp I measured on the heater casing (with the oil burner) was 110 deg C. With wood, it's over 300 deg C.

Considering what I have spent so far, I would have been better off to have just bought an LPG patio heater for the garage.

I really hoped I could use cheap old oil.

Thank goodness I haven't yet chopped a hole for a flue in my garage's new roof.

[p38arover]

Matt, looking at the amount of soot in the heater and flue, I wonder how much is due to low temperature burning? I think you are right about the baffling but I don't know how I'd fit them. The flue is stainless.

Perhaps by making up a steel box (with internal baffling) mounted between the heater and the flue?

However, what affect would it have on draw? Would I need a much longer flue?

[slug_burner]

Once you have heat in the box, the fire draws well.

Can you force air with a blower into the fire until you get the heat into the firebox? Or can you use a gas torch to help getting the fire started?

I have had a wood fire for years but never used a liquid fuel fire. Good luck getting it sorted.

[rovercare]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/622.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/623.jpg

Baffle plate, just bit of folded sheet that hangs over flue

Should keep it contained. I'm very happy with my kroll

[p38arover]

Thanks Matt.

I tried some changes tonight but to no avail.

The Sanders design seems very prone to flame outs. I certainly couldn't use it during the day, the smoke is simply too obvious. It doesn't get very warm. The max temp around the casing is no higher than 120 deg C.

It's very messy and one gets very smelly handling the oil. I need to make up a tray to collect any overspill oil.

I'm only perservering because I spent so much on the aluminium burner and the needle valve from Roger Sanders. I might have to look into converting it to Ozirt's design.

[db65boxer]

I persevered with Rodger sanders design for 2 winters, I built my own needle valve and was casting my dishes. They all melted, not through dodgy casting just extreme heat, remember aluminium melts at around 660c. I ended up with steel dish.
I found it dirty and fiddly even though I could get reliable heat from it.
I started to fiddle around with a design based on the old workshop heaters, choofa / salamander. And then I found Ozzirts design which helped me simplify things.
5 years later, Iv'e replace nothing but oil in my tank and a filter that was to fine and restricted my oil flow. Put in a good water trap ( all Pvc pipe ) and away you go.

People who have dropped in for a beer in the shed are amazed at the simplicty (easy to light ) and the amount of heat it gives of. I've got 2 brake drum chambers before the flue and I can have the top of each glowing dull red in under an hour at which time it usually gets turned down also the first 2 feet of the flue is glowing.

Good luck and please follow Ozzirts design you wont be dissapointed.

[Avion8]

Matt, looking at the amount of soot in the heater and flue, I wonder how much is due to low temperature burning? I think you are right about the baffling but I don't know how I'd fit them. The flue is stainless.

Perhaps by making up a steel box (with internal baffling) mounted between the heater and the flue?

However, what affect would it have on draw? Would I need a much longer flue?

I know this is an old thread, but the other day I removed our home wood fire baffle to clean the debris off the top - have done this every year for the past five years, & was very surprised to find a big hole burnt/corroded through it. This baffle is 5mm thick steel plate & I'm sure with a hole it is not up to safety specs:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/200.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/jodel1050/media/Bakers%20Hill%20bushfire/P1030014_zpses3wfzgw.jpg.html)

Also revealed that the baffle has suffered significant distortion in all planes. It was also a hassle getting a new one as the brand of heater is no longer supported in my area of WA. So off to the local metalworks & he did a great job folding up a new one which fits a treat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/201.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/jodel1050/media/Bakers%20Hill%20bushfire/P1030013_zpsbicwc3ao.jpg.html)Just wonder how many households have a heater with damaged baffles that could add to the likelihood of a flue fire?

[dromader driver]

looks like the old choofer now can have a flue and throttle butterfly


http://henstock.com.au/demon%C2%AE-heaters

[SouthOz]

Bloody small world. I start work for Henstock, who make the Demon Heaters, tomorrow as a welder. They are bout 1/4 hr. from me.:)

Demon? Heaters | Henstock (http://henstock.com.au/demon%C2%AE-heaters)

Dave

[pop058]

Bringing an old thread back with one a mate made. Thinking of painting it blue and yellow :D.

[mick88]

Looks like something out of Dr Who! You will need a boiler tickets or jet licence to operate it! What are the outriggers, ovens or booster heaters? You will have to explain the passage of heat through it! Cheers, Mick.

[pop058]

The out riggers are ovens but he is struggling to get reasonable temps into them.

[nismine01]

I have not read all the replies here so it may have already been suggested.

Google Babbinton burner, it utilises any burnable fluid (DON'T USE ANYTHING AS FLAMMABLE AS PETROL) using compressed air through a tine hole to atomise the liquid, no blockages that way.

Cheers

Mike

[LandyAndy]

Bringing an old thread back with one a mate made. Thinking of painting it blue and yellow :D.

Paul.
That thing is a work of art:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew