SIIA are frustrating things...

[srowlandson]

Well, mine is anyway....


I ordered a new radiator hose, what sort i am asked, straight or angle, hmm angle...


get the hose set, doesn't fit, have a good look, custom fittings in non factory spots, looks like i have to go custom hose shopping again on saturday unless slunnie can remember what hose to use on the bottom of the raditor i got ?? otherwise i might just crack the sads and get the original radiator soldered up and fixed.

fitted the fuel filler hose replacement, man that was a struggle.

re fitted the fan belt (easiest job of the night)

fitted new clutch slave cylinder, and hose... pump up, bleed (like the idea of doing the bleed whilst pumping the pedal... but, it won't engage the clutch when i depress the pedal to the floor now, grinding whilst hunting for gears :( it the clutch comes to rest, i can ram the piston back in the slave cylinder about 1 1/2 inches. it only rotates the clutch arm about 10 degrees in total :(


i did also manage to fix the oil leak from the fuel pump though :angel:

[Newbs-IIA]

Join the club mate - i'm doing radiator hoses and flush atm... the old water in my radiator looked like coffee!!! Not to mention the frozed hose clips that had to be surgically removed with a hack saw. Then there was the whole removing the seatbox and tub saga - who the hell designed these things??? they should be shot!!! i don't even know how they put them together - there are some bolts in the most aquard spots to get spanners to made all the more worse by 38 years of rust!!!!

ARRGGG GRRRRR!!!!!!!

Felt good to ge that out lol, needed a winge :D

[srowlandson]

Join the club mate - i'm doing radiator hoses and flush atm... the old water in my radiator looked like coffee!!! Not to mention the frozed hose clips that had to be surgically removed with a hack saw. Then there was the whole removing the seatbox and tub saga - who the hell designed these things??? they should be shot!!! i don't even know how they put them together - there are some bolts in the most aquard spots to get spanners to made all the more worse by 38 years of rust!!!!

ARRGGG GRRRRR!!!!!!!

Felt good to ge that out lol, needed a winge :D

i purchased many new bolts when i started this project, as all the bolts i undid were rust piece of @#$ and most sheered.

i might get the blow torch tonight and have a go at fixing the original radiator.

Steve

[Dinty]

G'day All, I see your biggest problem is that you haven't been around Land Rovers for very long or am I incorrect, another problem is the parts suppliers some of those people don't have a bloody clue.
As for design, it is the simplest design in the world, I would sooner undo a heap of bolts and lift the G/box out the top rather than struggle with some Jap crap underneath, you need to curse the previous owners who have neglected the vehicle.
Nuts and bolts will oxidise with Alloy when wet over a long period of time, but with some patience most bolts etc can be unscrewed and reclaimed, if US replace with new ones and apply a small amount of never seize to the threads, I generally paint all nuts and bolts washers etc before my rebuilds go back together this helps minimise problems with oxidisation down the track, and yes it does consume a large protion of your day just doing that, anyway cheers Dennis:wasntme:

[Newbs-IIA]

Yea i'm new to Rovers :D :D

I sheared a fair few of mine and pretty much all of the bolts holding the body onto my chassi will be replaced as they are not worth putting back in. The worst part was that most of the captive nuts that hold the front of the tub to the chassi broke free of the piece of steel they were welded too which meant i had to drop the fuel tanks to acesss them with a good socket and torque them off with brute force... I haven't got the luxuries of a gas-axe :p :p

I'm growing to like my old battle truck though :cool:

[ianyates]

Time and WD-40 are your best friends. Apply copious amounts of WD-40 on day one, to every bolt you think you might need to move. Then go and do something else until day two......

[olmate]

What can I say - the joys of.... :D Once you get thru the thing a couple of times all of these problems go away as you replace / repair bolts as needed. Dennis and Ian have said it well. It is very basic and one big Mechano Set ;)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Time and WD-40 are your best friends. Apply copious amounts of WD-40 on day one, to every bolt you think you might need to move. Then go and do something else until day two......
Ian is correct. The original bolts on Land Rover are zinc plated by a sherridising process which is a very resisiliant process. The big problem is the crud and corrosion on the exposed portion of the bolt and where non standard bolts have been replaced or damaged bolts re-used.

Buy yourself some little wire brushes and scrub off the exposed threads first, then the WD40 or similar and then tackle another job or have lunch etc. If you still have trouble work the crud loos by alternate tightening and loosening a little bit at a time. If the thread gets tight, back off again and apply some more WD, then have a cuppa.

It is a good practice to have a little pot of Loktite Neverseize with you when you replace bolts. A little dab on the thread and you or the next person who undoes the bolt will have an easy job. (Particularly on wheel nuts.)

Diana

[srowlandson]

well, i have probably bought 100 1/4" and 5/16" anda hand full of 3/8" UNF bolts (zinc) and mixed normal and nyloc nuts. Just bought a bulk bucket of grade 4&5 Zinc UNF bolts from 1/4" x 3/4" - 5/8" x 4" so i should have a new bolt for nearly every single application.

neversieze... hmm... i keep meaning to buy some. must grab some.

found a cheap supply of brake fittings in the UK, better than the $6 each form ABS here! i can get 10 for $6 from the UK...

[JDNSW]

As Diana says.

Series 1 and probably S2 had sherardised bolts and nuts and washers, as far as I know now unavailable - although it is possible to do these yourself if yoou are keen enough! Later ones had galvanised, and these are available, probably special order and by the box (I don't think you can get nyloc nuts galvanised).

Zinc plated fasteners are only slightly better than black steel in this application - stick out for galvanised. If you live right on the coast, there may be a case for using stainless, but you should ensure it is electrically insulated from the aluminium using neoprene or nylon washers and short tubes where they go through the panels.

If you use any of various antiseize compounds they will ensure you can undo the bolts next time.

Several years ago I completely disassembled the body of my 2a to repaint it, and probably twisted off half the bolts. A very few had to be ground off or drilled out. I used some new fasteners, but mostly were reused either from it or another one I stripped a few years earlier. As they were reassembled using antiseize, the ones I have had to disassemble since have proved to be easy.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...found a cheap supply of brake fittings in the UK, better than the $6 each form ABS here! i can get 10 for $6 from the UK...
And the details of this contact ????? :)

As Diana says.

Series 1 and probably S2 had sherardised bolts and nuts and washers, as far as I know now unavailable - ...
Sheridised bolts are available in the U.K. from several vendors. Tony Arnold is the easiest to use, although last time I bought from him he didn't have a website or accept credit cards - helps to have a U.K based friend.
L R FASTENERS (Tont Arnold prop.)
32, Laburnum Park, Bradshaw, Bolton, BL2 3BU.
Phone +44 (0) 1204 302589 Fax +44 (0) 1204 417219
Email: a.arnold60@ntlworld.com

Frank Mell is more difficult and is only interested in 80" models, and like Tony sells complete body kits. He doesn't have email or a website and only accepts UK cheques or cash. He is often cheaper than LR Fasteners.
FRANK MELL
10, Rowan Mount, Wheatley Hills, Doncaster, South Yorks. DN2 5PJ
Phone +44 (0) 130-2367349

Diana :)

[srowlandson]

And the details of this contact ????? :) ...

Diana :)
eBay Australia Shop - Auto Performance Silicone Hoses: Silicone Hoses, Blue Red Black, Jubilee Hose Clips (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Auto-Performance-Silicone-Hoses)

[chazza]

As Diana says.

Series 1 and probably S2 had sherardised bolts and nuts and washers, as far as I know now unavailable - although it is possible to do these yourself if yoou are keen enough! John

I am super-keen to do these myself, seeing that the blokes in England either don't reply to letters, or want more than the car is worth!

Fire away John - how do I do it?

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

I am super-keen to do these myself, seeing that the blokes in England either don't reply to letters, or want more than the car is worth!

Fire away John - how do I do it?

Cheers Charlie

" The first process, that of cleaning, can be done the same way as for galvanising, viz. dipping in dilute acid or sandblasting. The articles are then put into a suitable receptacle, a kind of retort, and surrounded by zinc dust, then subjected to the heat of a fire or gas until they reach 500 - 600F (260-315C). The heat is kept up for a few hours, according to the thickness of coat required, after which the whole is allowed to cool before the receptacle is opened. ...... The retort should be airtight if possible and it is desirable to exhaust the air from within it. If this cannot be done, about 3% of fine powdered carbon should be added." -Spons Workshop Receipts V4, London 1909.

For working on a small scale a section of steel pipe with screwed ends would seem to be suitable. It should be enclosed in a perhaps temporary firebrick enclosure to save heat, and provide with a remote handle to allow it to be turned occasionally, and ideally a temperature gauge of some kind. Gas heating would be suitable, perhaps a modified barbecue. (Note that the device could easily turn into a bomb if it contains any moisture, and a small relief hole might well be a good idea!)

I hope this helps - I have not done it, but have thought about doing it.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

John

That is interesting, I was always under the impression that the parts were in constant motion during the furnace process, as if in a concrete mixer. However this description suggests that turning occassionally is sufficient.

There must be companies that sheridise in Australia, a lot of the tech screws for exterior use on pine that you buy at hardware stores seems to be sheridised rather than galvanised.

Diana

[JDNSW]

John

That is interesting, I was always under the impression that the parts were in constant motion during the furnace process, as if in a concrete mixer. However this description suggests that turning occassionally is sufficient.

There must be companies that sheridise in Australia, a lot of the tech screws for exterior use on pine that you buy at hardware stores seems to be sheridised rather than galvanised.

Diana

I didn't quote the whole article, but it seems only occasional turning is needed.

I don't think those screws are sherardised - I think they have some additional coating over the galvanising. The problem with sherardising is that it is a batch process, and takes hours rather than minutes, so it is very unlikely to be used for items that are mass produced - galvanising is automated for things like that.

The article gives the following advantages over galvanising -

Lower temperature, hence less damage to the bits being done.

Does not fill threads and other holes, but gives an even coating regardless of profile, provided the zinc powder is in contact with the whole surface - hence the turning.

An oil film appears not to bother the process, hence freshly cut bolts for example, can go straight in without further cleaning.

Uses less energy - the zinc bath does not have to be kept molten the whole time, and not needing the top open, you can avoid a lot of heat loss, and the whole process occurs about 100C below the melting point of zinc. (This may lead to increased popularity as energy prices rise!)

Less stock of zinc required, and uses less.

John

[chazza]

Thank you John; most enlightening. I imagine a potter's kiln would work extremely well along with your pipe idea,

Cheers Charlie