Would you guys use this recovery hitch?

[Zej]

RANGE ROVER - 4WD 4 x 4 - RECOVERY POINT HITCH - eBay, Other Car Parts, Accessories, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 28-Jul-08 17:40:33 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RANGE-ROVER-4WD-4-x-4-RECOVERY-POINT-HITCH_W0QQitemZ270256880256QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6763 QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD4VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp16 38Q2em124)

I've been looking for a recovery hitch to fit my ARB rear step, but the off-the-shelf items at ARB/TJM are too short.

What are your thoughts on this item?
Any other suggestions for a rear recovery point?

[Scouse]

I personally wouldn't use it as it's a welded recovery point.

I prefer the one piece type. As you have found out, the off the shelf items are too short so you (and I) need to get one specially made.

[Psimpson7]

It wouldn't bother me too much as long as who ever made it could weld. My RUD lifting eyes I have for recovery on the back of my 90 are welded on to the chassis.

If you could tell me the sizes and materials, I could tell you how strong it is, by running it through my FEA software.

Rgds
Peter

[harry]

if he has had it tested, as he says, to 15000 kg plus then i'd use it. be nice to see some sort of test report.
the straight one for my liking.
for 45bucks throw in a rated shackle as well.

[PSI250]

I've had one of these for about a year or so, snatched my mates GQ out on numberous occasions and haven;t had a problem, only thing is now the paints a little chipped off where the shackle has been rubbing. Before that i was just poking the strap down the hole and using the pin, definately a pain as the pin is right under and normally covered in mud!!

[dungarover]

I've also got one, seems pretty well made to me. Solid too.

I haven't used it yet though, but for the price it seems like good value.

Trav

[POD]

I certainly wouldn't be put off by the fact that something is welded- like Peter says the question is whether it is welded right. What sort of accountability is there for someone selling something on eBay with an alleged load rating? Was it welded over a dung fire in the Mekong Delta and the number of pigs in the village stamped on as a load rating? Or was the wall thickness of the SHS and the cross-sectional area of weld specified by engineering calculations and then carried out by a qualified tradesman? How do you know??

[Slunnie]

It'd be interesting to see if there was any elongation in the holes that the receiever pin goes through after some heavy snatching.

[tony]

If the weld is done correctly theres nothing wrong with it, the weld area

is stronger than the parent metal

but why buy one when you can make your own and get that warm fuzzey feeling

T

[Slunnie]

If the weld is done correctly theres nothing wrong with it, the weld area

is stronger than the parent metal

but why buy one when you can make your own and get that warm fuzzey feeling

T

Legal buffer if it does go badly.

[Scouse]

If the weld is done correctly theres nothing wrong with it, the weld area is stronger than the parent metal If not done correctly the weld can weaken the parent meterial too.



It looks like I'm being out voted here but I prefer to have a non-welded recovery point. Sure, the rear step bar is a welded construction but this has to pass certain regulations in order to be sold as a towing point.

I'm not doubting the sellers welding ability but just how is the 15041kg rating worked out ?
Does this accurate figure mean that it failed at 15041kg (WLL) ?
If so, what would be the SWL ?

Doing a bit of internet research (yes, I know....), items like this are supposed to have a factor varying between 5 & 10. This means that this WLL might drop down to a SWL of 1500kg.
My RR certainly weighs more than 1500kg.

Not worth the risk IMO.




There, I feel better.

Now flame me.
:twisted::twisted::twisted:

[Psimpson7]

Just a quick one Scott. WLL (Working load limit) is not the load at which it fails. It is basically a new term for SWL.

Rgds
Pete.

[Zej]

Thanks for the responses, guys.
Yes, I was a bit unsure about the fact that it was welded and that there doesn't seem to be much to go on (re:manufacturer, specifications, tests etc.).

I was told that removing the tow bar and putting a shackle through the hitch would work, but my hitch is also welded together, with the tongue-y bit at an angle to the 50mm square-y bit. Has anyone else had any success finding a suitable rear recovery point?

No, I'm not fabricating one myself. The reason for my concern over welded items is directly attributable to my metal-working skills. Or lack thereof.