Is it dead ?

[90]

RR Classic, 4.2l EFI. Drove fine, then last week wouldn't start. Was fine when parked at night but wouldn't start in the morning.

Cranks over until battery is dead, no life at all. Tried several times over the last week or so.

Checked everything I can think of. Sparks seem OK, fuel seems OK, air seems OK, new heads about 8 months ago so compression should be OK. I assume if one injector goes it still runs and the chances of 8 injectors going at the same time seems pretty remote, so I guess injectors OK.

Is the ECU the only thing left ?

I put new coil in and replaced a couple of cracked fuel lines, but I don't think there was anything too wrong with them, it didn't make any difference.

Took the ECU out and took the cover off, nothing visibly wrong (burnt componets etc). Is it possible to test or bypass the ECU in some way or do I have to get another one ?

Thankyou

[2_door]

RR Classic, 4.2l EFI. Drove fine, then last week wouldn't start. Was fine when parked at night but wouldn't start in the morning.

Cranks over until battery is dead, no life at all. Tried several times over the last week or so.

Checked everything I can think of. Sparks seem OK, fuel seems OK, air seems OK, new heads about 8 months ago so compression should be OK. I assume if one injector goes it still runs and the chances of 8 injectors going at the same time seems pretty remote, so I guess injectors OK.

Is the ECU the only thing left ?

I put new coil in and replaced a couple of cracked fuel lines, but I don't think there was anything too wrong with them, it didn't make any difference.

Took the ECU out and took the cover off, nothing visibly wrong (burnt componets etc). Is it possible to test or bypass the ECU in some way or do I have to get another one ?

Thankyou

does it have an alarm/ignition cut off system anywhere?

[Blknight.aus]

is the fuel pump working?

[strange_rover1]

I think I would definitely be looking at the fuel pump too!! If you lie down next to the tank and get someone to turn the ignition on, i am pretty sure you should be able to hear the pump start up. I had probs with my in tank pump which is why I put a commodore external fuel pump in as a back up in case the original in tank went caput.
Hope you get it going soon.
Shano

[LandyAndy]

Yep,its dead.
I will come and collect it and bury it in the local cemetry free of charge!!!!
Im with Shano.Dead fuelpump.
Dunydoore conversion coming up.
Andrew

[mike 90 RR]

Yep,its dead.
I will come and collect it and bury it in the local cemetry free of charge!!!!
Im with Shano.Dead fuelpump.
Dunydoore conversion coming up.
Andrew

and try ... Start with foot flat floor

Test for voltage drop issues on the positive terminal post on the fire wall // Inside cabin
The volts to the ECU plus other .... are fed from this T Post

[pomonastik]

there must be a range rover union ! mine's gone out in sympathy. churns over, splutters a bit, dudders and dies. rev counter leaps on key turn then crashes back with a few pathetic bounces. sounds like there is an intermittent electrical zap from under bonnet when turning the key. one up so can't see it.
fuel pump is working (took it out and it sprayed fuel), plugs get wet,unburnt fuel in exhaust. while investigating did find foot valve in vacuum adv/rtd was r/s. removing from line doesn't make it start but might be the reason for previously rich running.
any ideas?

[mike 90 RR]

there must be a range rover union ! mine's gone out in sympathy. churns over, splutters a bit, dudders and dies. rev counter leaps on key turn then crashes back with a few pathetic bounces. sounds like there is an intermittent electrical zap from under bonnet when turning the key. one up so can't see it.
fuel pump is working (took it out and it sprayed fuel), plugs get wet,unburnt fuel in exhaust. while investigating did find foot valve in vacuum adv/rtd was r/s. removing from line doesn't make it start but might be the reason for previously rich running.
any ideas?

Ok ... ALL of the above could be solved via this link ... 6th line down is how I sorted it all out http://www.aulro.com/afvb/range-rover/55736-r-r-1990-electronic-dizzy.html

Same fix for 90 also

Let us know how you went :) :)

Mike

[pomonastik]

ok i'm up for believing that. i've been out there with a torch, no burned wires but there is a slight stain on the plastic washer on the inner firewall, could be an indication of some corrosion beneath. i gave the underbonnet side connection a wiggle and it could be described as very slightly loose. i wasn't game to crank it over at 1am.
i've also checked the scrap car and it's post seems bright and shiny. i'll start by stripping this one down to see how it comes apart then move on to the (supposed) 'goer'.
i'll post back tomorrow with how it goes.

[90]

Fuel pump seems fine.

I checked by removing the return fuel line from the injectors, turn on the ignition and fuel pumps out of it, plenty of pressure as well (whilst trying not to inject myself).

Tried foot to the floor for a whole battery. Tried no accelerator and tried half way.

Same symptons as Pomonastik, wet plugs, seems like fuel. Remove the plugs and there seems to be plenty of spark, but I always have trouble with this as the earth to the block is not easy with a plug out of the motor even with two people. When the spark stops I never know whether it has died or whether the earth has gone. Jiggle it bit and it comes back, but maybe the jiggling isn't the reason. Spark from HT lead from coil to dizzy also seems OK (well there is one).

Like the firewall terminal idea, this sounds like the sort of thing, I'll check tomorrow.

Also like Andy's idea. If I could just find that carby fed 90 I remember I used to have, I may just tow the Range Rover into the sea. Now where did I park it, it has been a while ....

[mike 90 RR]

Fuel pump seems fine.

I checked by removing the return fuel line from the injectors, turn on the ignition and fuel pumps out of it, plenty of pressure as well (whilst trying not to inject myself).

Tried foot to the floor for a whole battery. Tried no accelerator and tried half way.

Same symptons as Pomonastik, wet plugs, seems like fuel. Remove the plugs and there seems to be plenty of spark, but I always have trouble with this as the earth to the block is not easy with a plug out of the motor even with two people. When the spark stops I never know whether it has died or whether the earth has gone. Jiggle it bit and it comes back, but maybe the jiggling isn't the reason. Spark from HT lead from coil to dizzy also seems OK (well there is one).

Like the firewall terminal idea, this sounds like the sort of thing, I'll check tomorrow.

Also like Andy's idea. If I could just find that carby fed 90 I remember I used to have, I may just tow the Range Rover into the sea. Now where did I park it, it has been a while ....

Sounds as though you need some fresh Earth wires installed ... ALSO .. The terminal post will "Look OK" ... but once you start to look & "test" the wires that are "Inside" the cabin .. you will see the problems // Low volts & burn't wires at connection at post ...

FOR 90 & POMONASTIC
I couldn't see the problem either ... till after the Autospark did the repairs & the offending parts where on the bench

Also
You can't turn fuel injection over for long periods at a time ... It just floods the motor & stuffs the plugs... Clean the plugs .. or stick in a fresh set or known good set (after cleaning out excess fuel in pots via turning starter when plugs out)

// Turn / start in short bursts (foot flat to mix for flooding or foot pumping to excite the electrics // my theory anyway)

.... also wait for the electrics to work (3 seconds) before starting motor

Mike :)

[pomonastik]

WELL..............
i dissembled the stud, no corrosion evident, tightened all the connections at the firewall, still no go.
i then pulled the cheap plugs i bought recently and substituted the old ngk set, suitably cleaned and re-gapped. i checked all of the plug leads for orientation and finally refitted the coil lead to the cap. a last fiddle with the brittle low tension wires 'twixt dizzy/coil/alternator. and VRRRMMMM !

ergo it was either

a dodgy low tension wire
or
that the coil h/t lead wasn't previously properly 'home' into the dizzy (i hate to admit that could have been it)
or
supacheapauto home brand spark plugs ! (never again)

runs heaps better now. could that be the application of vacuum to the adv/retd mechanism that was previously absent? is that foot (or 'phut') valve important ? mine is black with an orange end towards the dizzy. it is impossible to suck from the carb end. in fact playing with it reveals it works but completely the wrong way round !?!

how did you go 90 ?
p.s your first name isn't JOE by chance?:eek:

[mike 90 RR]

i then pulled the cheap plugs i bought recently and substituted the old ngk

supacheapauto home brand spark plugs ! (never again)


how did you go 90 ?
p.s your first name isn't JOE by chance?:eek:






YOU used HomeBrand :eek:

Post a pic of the vac setup as there are 2 ways of hooking up the line

[pomonastik]

YOU used HomeBrand

i know but it was all they had in stock to fit late one friday evening, apart from some ridiculously expensive gold-plated boy-racer plugs. you'd think 'merchantable quality' laws would mean they would actually function even if only at a basic level. incidentally the only other place open that night, k-mart, doesn't even keep spark plugs any more.
in the good old days i could have bought some proper ones at my local servo. little hope of that now coles owns it, but no worries if you want slushees, mummified pies and chocolate bars twice the price they would be in a supermarket (ironic isn't it?).
i'll get a photo of the vacuum line happening tomorrow.

[Bradtot]

Take out the restrictor to the vac line and just fit a plain hose I did and improved my economy and had more power. I had mine on for the last 6 years before I found out it was causing me to lose all of the above
I suspect u may have a faulty intermittent rotor in the dizzy...Common fault causing the symptoms you have. I have had it twice now and have heard of it many times before. Also dont use aftermarket rotor's Genuine only
Good luck
Brad