D2 Recovery Points

[Rosscoe68]

anyone know a reasonable priced way of fitting recovery points to front of a D2 TD5. i have an east coast bullbar and airbags so cant mount onto bullbar.


Rosscoe

[McDisco]

Rosscoe

There are a few options, Troutbeck Engineering make some as well as 4x4Discovery.com.au - "think outside ..." (http://www.4x4intelligence.com.au).

I have the 4x4intelligence ones. They are very well made and super strong!
These guys are in Melbourne. Recovery Points (http://www.4x4intelligence.com.au/recovery_points.htm)

Angus

[dmdigital]

You don't want to mount onto bullbar anyway. Best thing is to get two recovery eyes, these attach off the wombat bar under the vehicle (when the tie down point is using the existing bolts on the chassis. You can then bridle two shackles for frontal recovery.

Try www.troutbecksales.net - there a lot of others also selling these.

[DiscoDan]

link wrong try this;)

Troutbeck Sales & Services (http://www.troutbecksales.com/)

I haven't used them but also looking

[Mundy]

Rosscoe,
I've got a single recovery point (ie on one side) which replaces the on-road recovery loop that projects through the original bumper. I initially just beefed up the original recovery loop and replaced the bolts with high tensile ones. However, when at Bruce Davis' Performance Landys, they have an example in their foyer of a recovery point which has just ripped out of the chassis. They make (and I bought) a specially designed and reinforced arrangement which strengthens the chassis at the connection point. I think it was $500, which seems a lot, but decided it was better than the cost of repair if I ripped out the connection and, worse, couldn't recover my vehicle in the bargain if I was in trouble.

Malcolm

[DI5CO]

AMV as well.
Accessories - The Economic Alternative for the Melbourne Landrover & Rover 4wd Community (http://www.amv.com.au/accessories.htm)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Have you tried
The Good Oil
?




http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/38882-front-tow-points.html

[LandyAndy]

Hi Rosscoe
We have a set of D2 ARB recovery points donated to AULRO by member RichardK for fundraising.I believe after seeing pics of them they fit identically to the ones I made for my D2 with ECB bullbar.You will need to buy longer high tensile bolts as they mount to chassis as the bullbar does.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/08/115.jpg
If you want to make a fair and reasonable donation to AULRO we can do a deal.
PS I will double check my bolt spacings with Richards recovery points before closing any sale,they are made to suit ARBs D2 bullbar.
Andrew

[Rosscoe68]

they look the go. how can i organise to get these?
where are they at ?

rosscoe

[p38arover]

I'd love a tracing of that to see if they'd fit the P38A. If they do, I'll buy a set.

I originally was after a Yican Axle Direct Recovery system but they aren't available:

YiCaN introduces Axle Direct Recovery. Website:www.yican.com.au (http://www.yican.com.au/ADR/ADRMain.htm)

[LandyAndy]

They are in WA,Im sure the donor will post.
They were donated as a raffle prize for AULRO fundraising.Seen as they are a vehicle specific item,we may not get the interest in a raffle.
Call ARB for a quote:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:,then make an offer.When talking to ARB,these are made to match their D2 winch bar,dont seem to exsist in their cattledog.
I will get Richard to measure the bolt spacing and confirm if it matches my D2.
Ball is in your court,make a reasonable offer.
It has been suggested in the moderators forum to put these up for auction.
Andrew

[Rosscoe68]

wow, that yican ADR looks the goods, anyone else make them ?
i might even see if i can get some fabbed up. looks like a relatively simple but extremely effective system.

[cjc_td5]

I am looking to fabricate up replacement recovery points for my D2 and like the idea of recreating the U shaped layout of the factory unit so that the recovery forces can be spread up both sides of the chassis rail and achieve 4 bolt shear points rather than 2 as is the case with the ARB and other aftermarket recovery points. The key difference to the factory unit is that I would use 12mm steel plate.

There have been various comments made about the fact that the factory fitted "tow point" can fail when used for recovery purposes. Does any one know how they fail (failure of the rod eye, rip bolt holes out, buckle of the side arms etc)???? Knowledge of how they fail would help me design this weakness out of my "improved" recovery points.

Cheers:D

[Bytemrk]

I am looking to fabricate up replacement recovery points for my D2 and like the idea of recreating the U shaped layout of the factory unit so that the recovery forces can be spread up both sides of the chassis rail and achieve 4 bolt shear points rather than 2 as is the case with the ARB and other aftermarket recovery points. The key difference to the factory unit is that I would use 12mm steel plate.

There have been various comments made about the fact that the factory fitted "tow point" can fail when used for recovery purposes. Does any one know how they fail (failure of the rod eye, rip bolt holes out, buckle of the side arms etc)???? Knowledge of how they fail would help me design this weakness out of my "improved" recovery points.

Cheers:D

The factory point fails at the weld. They were never designed for the forces created by a snatch recovery.

The recovery points made by ARB and 4x4Intelligence (4x4Discovery) use the high tensile bolts that also hold your bull bar on.. if you use the correct bolts and manage to shear those I will be very surprised - not sure i would want to be there :eek::eek:.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/12/39.jpg

I have one on each side and when possible use a bridle...for $100 I wouldn't bother fabricating my own.

Mark

[LandyAndy]

I snaped a grade8 HT bolt and bent the second on my home made points.Also bent the recovery point.Mine are much stronger than the ARB ones,made from 1/2" plate!!!!
The Mrs' Rangie did the damage via snatch straps.
Andrew

[Tombie]

The Yican system is S-hit

Your arms and diff / chassis mount points are not designed for the stress that pulling forwards on the diff / bushes / arms / arm to chassis bushes that this system generates...

Put your load into the chassis rails evenly and do no harm...

I cant stress this enough :angel:

[LandyAndy]

Your dead right Toombie.
When I was a SODBUSTERS ASSISTANT,I got the super spreader bogged properly.It was a 6 tonne Bedford with a spreader mounted to the chassis.The bin was 3/4 full of fertilizer,the sodbuster employer insisted on wraping the recovery chain around the front axle despite my useless advice.Anyhow hook up a 200hp 4WD tractor and give it heaps. Tractor chain front axle wheels and springs take off,me still siting in the Bedford having gained 1 3/4" forward travel:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
Just had to say TOLD YOU SO with a big grin on my face:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
I didnt enjoy bagging off all the fertiliser,took me all day:mad::mad::mad::mad:
Andrew

[Pedro_The_Swift]

:Rolling::Rolling:

no pics Andy???
:angel::wasntme:

[LandyAndy]

Sorry Pedro,didnt have a digi phone or camera back then,wish I did.

I have had a very reasonable offer on RichardKs recovery points,thank you Yorkie.Yorkie if you didnt get my PM let me know I will resend.We had a system meltdown today.
Thanks
Andrew

[Yorkie]

andrew,
thanks i got your message and will sort out a transfer tomorrow.
cheers
yorkie :D

[ozscott]

I just took delivery of the 4X4 Intelligence ones pictured above - nice people to deal with. They are massive - actually much bigger than the above photo suggests! They are very heavy too. Two are in the pack, and it seems that you put one on each side of the rail and bolt them together, but they are so bloody massive that I reckon one on each rail - ie one each side you be better!

Cheers

[McDisco]

Nah I dont think so mate. You should have gotten 4 upgraded longer bolts which means you do put one on each side of the wombat bar/chassis rails. Just hope you havent dinged your bar...I had a big V in mine and it made it a B!TCH to fit...got there in the end. Should take about half our to fit otherwise...

Angus

[ozscott]

Yep mate - they supplied the bolts. They told me that they bolt on either side of the rail, but they are so solid I reckon with 8 bolts you could fit one on left and right rail...they are very close to being as thick as my rated recovery point that fits into my hayman reece tow hitch at the rear!

[ozscott]

Ok - read the instructions. It is one plate per chassis rail...so 4 bolts and 2 plates and one plate per side of the vehicle with a tree protector slung between them...nice.:)

[McDisco]

Good to see you sorted it out. They are very good points...very very solid. I got towed in Tassie and the tow truck guy was very impressed by them and he said that a lot of 4wd's he tows dont have proper points.

The recovery points also fit very well with the bash plate that 4x4intelligence make as well. They are made of 4-5 mill steel and look a lot like the Bearmach ones.

Post some pics when you get em fitted!

Angus

[Bytemrk]

Those are exactly the points in the photo I posted earlier in this tread.

Damn solid, easy to fit and frankly if you damage the points or vehicle trying to snatch with those... you should be looking for a different recovery method than snatching anyway.

Good luck with them.

Mark

[waynep]

Yes recommend you use a bridle always rather than snatching off the one point ( I did bend one doing that ) -- a tree trunk protector is OK, with the loop of the snatch strap threaded through it and the loops of the TTP shackled to your recovery points. That way it sort of "self equalises" to the angle you are pulling at. I cut the arm bit of one of those welding gloves and put that in the centre of the TT protector beneath where the snatch strap is threaded through.

I've heard some people say that TTP straps shouldn't be use for this purpose, but they are actually two layers of woven material laminated together, so I wouldn't see there being an issue. Happy to hear thoughts though.

I've seen you can now get one that is made out of "stretchy" material like a snatch strap, specially made as an equaliser strap.

[ozscott]

Thanks fellas - I will see if I can get a black snake.

Cheers

[McDisco]

Scott

is the black snake a bridle? I am thinking of getting one...but then again its been ages since I needed snatch (not blowing my own trumpet too much am I? :o)

Angus

[ozscott]

Gday Angus. I was just saying to my wife this morning that its all bloody funny because I have only needed a snatch on the beach once...very deep fine sand and I was racing back at almost high tide on Main Beach Straddie and had to stop for my brother whose kids in the County were feeling a bit off. Stopped in the soft and I still had my tyres at 24psi. I started to bog in and instead of clearing the diffs/dropping pressures down to 16 say I just said pull me a few feet and we will be off - quicker with tide coming in. So my brother did and with his tyres still up a bit he got stuck (first time for him in hundreds of hours of beach driving and again it was quicker for me to extract with the strap than him...he only got stuck because I had swung around and parked nose to nose and he decided to be lazy and snatch me out from the front of his County!). So with me out I then had to snatch him and we must have looked, despite heaps of beach driving experience between us, like a bunch of *****.:)

I think black snake do a bridle, I will find out. I have the Black Rat snatch strap, but one day if it ever need replacing I will use either a Black Snake snake or a Just Straps...I mainly use the bloody thing to help others out:)

Cheers

[Yorkie]

ok i have the arb recovery points from andy as mentioned earlier in the thread.
now can some tell me what size bolts i need to attach without me having to take one of the current bolts off the car, want to send the wife to grab them while i am at work :)

appreciate your responses.
yorkie
ps. i am aware they need to be high tensile!

[ozscott]

Went to fit these up. Followed directions for mounting outside of the rails. Problem is that this would see them mounted against the knurled uprights of the wombat bar - 2 problems then weakness and lack of bolt shank length. So I took wombat bar off. Here are pics. Clearly it is recommended that they go on the outside to accommodate their own steering protector.

In hindsight though and after looking at the fitted pic above, it seems I can re-mount them inboard of the chassis rails and still have room for the wombat bar (and plate?).

Cheers

[ozscott]

I have just searched on AULRO and found that what i propose about sticking them inboard will fix the problem.

Cheers

[McDisco]

Yeah mate you can fit them and keep the wombat bar, no problems. They do have to go on the outside of the chassis rail between the rail and the wombat bar. I had a bugger of a time fitting mine (before I got the steering protector) because my wombat bar had a bloody huge ding it it! Made it really hard to get the bolts into place...

Angus

[ozscott]

Thanks matey - this pic http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image1.jpg from Bytemrk, shows them inside...that might be easier because it would not require outward bending of the cross bar?

Cheers

PS. Have you any pics mate?

[McDisco]

Scott,

No your actually right...they do go on the inside...gees it must of been ages since I got under there! :D

Angus