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View Full Version : Changing D2 Fuel Pump - TD5



akelly
24th September 2008, 07:22 AM
Hi All,

didn't find much here when searching for how to change my D2 TD5 fuel pump, so thought I would post some tips post-job... First of all, the symptoms (loss of power and sluggish - wont go over 40kmh) were very similar to the turbo hose de-lamination (which happend a year ago) - so check that first! If your car has over 150k on it and you have already done the hose, then its quite likely its the fuel pump (or the oil in harness, check other threads for that).

1. Quite a straight fwd job, if you change your own oil and filters then you can tackle this job I reckon. You need a few screwdrivers (phillips and flat), a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer - easy!

2. The pump is located in the top of the tank, but you dont need to drop the tank in the D2 - just remove the side bins (or seats) and pull up the carpet (more on this later). I have bins, so thats what I describe here - if you have seats then you will need to remove those (I have no idea what they even look like!).

3. The new pump does not (at least in my case) come with the rubber gasket for the top of the tank lip - you need to keep the old one. I just gave mine a good wash in soapy water and swapped it over - no worries.

4. Removing the retaining ring that holds the pump in place can be done (carefully) with a hammer and screwdriver - a couple of good whacks to get it moving then it will turn by hand. You need to press down on the top of the pump as it is spring loaded, otherwise the ring will be tight all the way out.

5. The elec connector for the pump is a little fragile (mine was anyway) so be careful and use a small screwdriver to push the clips in before lifting off. If you break the clips (as I did) then a bead of silicon around the connector before refitting will ensure it doesn't vibrate loose.

6. The fuel lines into the pump are colour coded (nice) as are the blanking plugs on the new pump - you cant go wrong here. A pair of needle nose pliers are all that is needed to remove the connectors for the lines (just squeeze them in and the lines pop out - easy when you see the connector).

7. Removing and replacing the trim in the rear area is the biggest job. Be aware there are 4 press-in style trim clips, 3 you can see and one hiding behind the vent right at the back of the side bin panel - remove the vent and you will see the last clip - they are round-headed with a ribbed prong :angel: A flat screwy will leaver them out enough to grab with your fingers (or pliers) and pull out. There are also 3 phillips head screws - 2 under little covers each side of the rear window (use a small screwy to remove the cover) and one in the piece that covers the seat belt mechanism. Once you get all these clips and screws out the side bins will come straight out (pull from the bottom) - I just tilted the rear seats right fwd and pushed the bins into that space. The carpet then comes up easily (dont worry about the rear strip holding the carpet down, you dont need to remove that) - when refitting the carpet just use a large screwy to push it back under the strip. I found a lot of moisture under the carpet :mad: so I left it up for a week to dry after...

8. The pump itself is under the circular plate in the floor - 6 phillips head screws and its off.

9. To restart the car afterwards you need to follow the procedure for running out of fuel (in the owners manual) - basically cycle the key on/off about 5 times (follow the owners manual please!). You will hear the pump priming up when you do this - once it is all quiet (took about 10 cycles for me but my pump had failed and the car stopped, so the lines were empty) then its ready to go!

All in all I reckon this took about 2 hours. I left the carpet up and the pump over off until I had filled the tank and driven around for a bit - just to check for leaks. I recommend you do this too.

You can buy the pump for just under $500 - 2 hours of your time and you save the other $X a stealer or workshop would charge (I was quoted $1300!)... Well worth it in my books.

Sorry there are no pics - I didn't really think about it until it was all over! Feel free to ask Q's or provide comments.

Cheers,

Adam

CowsGoMoo
28th September 2008, 08:56 AM
Well this is scary. I had a similar problem at the same time. I searched for info like this the night before you posted and did a small write up as well. I only found this post today.

Here's a link to my thread for future reference.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/64098-td5-fuel-pump-should-make-some-noise-right.html

Xtreme
28th September 2008, 09:28 AM
[quote] 4. Removing the retaining ring that holds the pump in place can be done (carefully) with a hammer and screwdriver - a couple of good whacks to get it moving then it will turn by hand. You need to press down on the top of the pump as it is spring loaded, otherwise the ring will be tight all the way out.[end quote]

Attached picture of a hand made 'special' tool for removing Td5 fuel pumps without using the 'hammer and screwdriver method. Makes the job that that little bit easier and to carry one amongst a group on a trip could be worthwhile.
The 1/2" socket drive makes it really easy to press down while turning and the two 'fingers' exert equal force on each side of the retaining ring.

Roger

Graeme
28th September 2008, 08:00 PM
Attached picture of a hand made 'special' tool for removing Td5 fuel pumps without using the 'hammer and screwdriver method. Makes the job that that little bit easier and to carry one amongst a group on a trip could be worthwhile.
The 1/2" socket drive makes it really easy to press down while turning and the two 'fingers' exert equal force on each side of the retaining ring.

Roger
Can you give the distance between the fingers and how long do they need to be please?
TIA Graeme

Xtreme
28th September 2008, 08:18 PM
Can you give the distance between the fingers and how long do they need to be please?
TIA Graeme

No problem - provided you're not in a hurry.
I'm away from home at present and don't have the tool with me. However, I'll measure it up when I return home and let you know.
If you haven't heard from me within a couple of weeks, then send me a reminder.

Roger

akelly
30th September 2008, 05:21 AM
Hey, I like that tool! I thought about making something similar but was too lazy...

Graeme
30th September 2008, 05:36 AM
No problem - provided you're not in a hurry.
I'm away from home at present and don't have the tool with me. However, I'll measure it up when I return home and let you know.
If you haven't heard from me within a couple of weeks, then send me a reminder.

Roger
That'll be great, thanks.
I carry a spare pump and pressure gauge and may as well carry a tool that avoids the use a hammer.

flybum
14th April 2011, 02:37 PM
That'll be great, thanks.
I carry a spare pump and pressure gauge and may as well carry a tool that avoids the use a hammer.
will also be interested in sizes so i can make one cheers

Pedro_The_Swift
14th April 2011, 08:25 PM
Thanks Adam,,:BigThumb:
straight to--

The Good Oil:cool:

Xtreme
15th April 2011, 06:33 AM
will also be interested in sizes so i can make one cheers
Sorry for delay in answering the original request for the tool dimensions and thanks for this recent reminder.

The 'legs ' of the tool are 45mm long, 10mm square section, 110mm apart (130mm OD) and the bottom of the legs are radiused. The cross piece I used is 25mm SHS (just what I had lying around) and on top of this, in the centre, is welded an old socket, giving me a 1/2" square drive for the socket tool.

If this is not clear, let me know and I'll take a few more pictires at different angles.

flybum
19th April 2011, 08:06 AM
My disco stopped on me and won't start again. We had the vehicle jacked up high at the front and tank was low on diesel. However after a bit of effort it started and I got home. Next morning the bugger would not start. The pump makes a high wine but it has for the last year or so with no prob. I have had the pump out and checked for muck etc , but all was very very clean. Put pump back in and it is working, making a wine again but not as high. The pump works for the usual 20 to 30 seconds and then stops and starts again if you turn the engine over trying to start. perplexing as the pump seems to be working ok. Have no fuel leaks anywhere around engine etc My engine and engine bay are immaculate so I can see right away. Could it be the filter, and someone mentiuoned there is allso a small filter in the filter housing - is this correct. Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. cheers NZ

flybum
19th April 2011, 08:06 AM
My disco stopped on me and won't start again. We had the vehicle jacked up high at the front and tank was low on diesel. However after a bit of effort it started and I got home. Next morning the bugger would not start. The pump makes a high wine but it has for the last year or so with no prob. I have had the pump out and checked for muck etc , but all was very very clean. Put pump back in and it is working, making a wine again but not as high. The pump works for the usual 20 to 30 seconds and then stops and starts again if you turn the engine over trying to start. perplexing as the pump seems to be working ok. Have no fuel leaks anywhere around engine etc My engine and engine bay are immaculate so I can see right away. Could it be the filter, and someone mentioned there is also a small filter in the filter housing - is this correct. Any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. cheers NZ

ramjet
22nd August 2013, 02:29 PM
Hi All,

didn't find much here when searching for how to change my D2 TD5 fuel pump, so thought I would post some tips post-job... First of all, the symptoms (loss of power and sluggish - wont go over 40kmh) were very similar to the turbo hose de-lamination (which happend a year ago) - so check that first! If your car has over 150k on it and you have already done the hose, then its quite likely its the fuel pump (or the oil in harness, check other threads for that).

1. Quite a straight fwd job, if you change your own oil and filters then you can tackle this job I reckon. You need a few screwdrivers (phillips and flat), a pair of needle nose pliers and a hammer - easy!

2. The pump is located in the top of the tank, but you dont need to drop the tank in the D2 - just remove the side bins (or seats) and pull up the carpet (more on this later). I have bins, so thats what I describe here - if you have seats then you will need to remove those (I have no idea what they even look like!).

3. The new pump does not (at least in my case) come with the rubber gasket for the top of the tank lip - you need to keep the old one. I just gave mine a good wash in soapy water and swapped it over - no worries.

4. Removing the retaining ring that holds the pump in place can be done (carefully) with a hammer and screwdriver - a couple of good whacks to get it moving then it will turn by hand. You need to press down on the top of the pump as it is spring loaded, otherwise the ring will be tight all the way out.

5. The elec connector for the pump is a little fragile (mine was anyway) so be careful and use a small screwdriver to push the clips in before lifting off. If you break the clips (as I did) then a bead of silicon around the connector before refitting will ensure it doesn't vibrate loose.

6. The fuel lines into the pump are colour coded (nice) as are the blanking plugs on the new pump - you cant go wrong here. A pair of needle nose pliers are all that is needed to remove the connectors for the lines (just squeeze them in and the lines pop out - easy when you see the connector).

7. Removing and replacing the trim in the rear area is the biggest job. Be aware there are 4 press-in style trim clips, 3 you can see and one hiding behind the vent right at the back of the side bin panel - remove the vent and you will see the last clip - they are round-headed with a ribbed prong :angel: A flat screwy will leaver them out enough to grab with your fingers (or pliers) and pull out. There are also 3 phillips head screws - 2 under little covers each side of the rear window (use a small screwy to remove the cover) and one in the piece that covers the seat belt mechanism. Once you get all these clips and screws out the side bins will come straight out (pull from the bottom) - I just tilted the rear seats right fwd and pushed the bins into that space. The carpet then comes up easily (dont worry about the rear strip holding the carpet down, you dont need to remove that) - when refitting the carpet just use a large screwy to push it back under the strip. I found a lot of moisture under the carpet :mad: so I left it up for a week to dry after...

8. The pump itself is under the circular plate in the floor - 6 phillips head screws and its off.

9. To restart the car afterwards you need to follow the procedure for running out of fuel (in the owners manual) - basically cycle the key on/off about 5 times (follow the owners manual please!). You will hear the pump priming up when you do this - once it is all quiet (took about 10 cycles for me but my pump had failed and the car stopped, so the lines were empty) then its ready to go!

All in all I reckon this took about 2 hours. I left the carpet up and the pump over off until I had filled the tank and driven around for a bit - just to check for leaks. I recommend you do this too.

You can buy the pump for just under $500 - 2 hours of your time and you save the other $X a stealer or workshop would charge (I was quoted $1300!)... Well worth it in my books.

Sorry there are no pics - I didn't really think about it until it was all over! Feel free to ask Q's or provide comments.

Cheers,

Adam



Thanks for the heads-up, had the same failure last night with our disco 125,000km... this post has me quite comfortable doing the change over, and Alan at B4WD for the pump. Cheers, Ramjet

trevor
22nd August 2013, 03:59 PM
I had a mechanic friend replace my fuel pump when it failed. He dropped the tank (I suppose that's why we have LR specialists) still happy though cause it was still cheaper and cleaned my fuel tank in the process as well. If I knew it was this easy I would've done it myself.

somosrenos
26th September 2013, 10:51 AM
thanks Adams ..a great help,Ithink i will cut carpet along cupboard ,down one side.Mine started to miss ond run out off power at 2700rpm ,that was the first sign .Ichanged filter thinking that might of been problem .it went about 500metres and stopped so thanks i didnt hear any noise from pump after doing the key thing .So im off to take pump out Thanks again for this good info Mal

Pippin
26th September 2013, 11:35 AM
TD5 Disco Fuel pump/sender unit - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=54796) This is extremely good for pump replacement with pictures every step of the way.

Nick