Diff Lock in or out on dirt

[robert42]

Hi All,
Sounds like a good day on the 22 feb... Anyhow Was told to always put the gear box diff lock in when on dirt..Other wise it wears out faster.. How true is this?? as my disco had no diff lock lever.I have fitted a morse cable to it and now change it from under the lid..er.. bonnet...Just asking...Thanks Bob..
PS dose anyone know the total weight of a trans.gear box please..

[Redback]

I usually put it in, makes the car more controllable, especially in loose dirt.

Baz.

[waynep]

The boys that know ;):D here in Melbourne told me to always engage CDL off the blacktop.

[BigJon]

I leave mine out, unless I am in a traction loss situation off road.

I find with it locked on high speed dirt, the handling tends towards understeer. I prefer a "looser" more oversteery feeling, hence leaving it unlocked.

[mcrover]

I leave mine out, unless I am in a traction loss situation off road.

I find with it locked on high speed dirt, the handling tends towards understeer. I prefer a "looser" more oversteery feeling, hence leaving it unlocked.

I find the opposite.

I put mine in pretty much as soon as things get a little loose.

On shinny dirt roads you can have just as much traction as tar so unless it's wet or loose I dont enguage it.

It drives a hell of a lot better with it in I find, much more predictable.

[barney]

i was always an outy, bourne fro my days in part time 4wds, but when suggested by a mate whose opinion i trusted to lock it up, i tried it and found it was a heap more controllable.
i doubt the wear thing would have much creedance. it might be something that has come from jeep circles, they have a similar set up in the quadratrac transfer cases but where ours are open when unlocked, theirs are limited slip and do wear out.
i found this out from owning a renegade that some knob had blown the front diff in, and replaced it with one that was a different ratio, something had to give and it was the transfer case.

[omvanders]

Don't they 'wind up' in the case if there's not enough loss of traction? I've heard stories of people having to back up a long way before they were able to disengage.

[Slunnie]

WRT to wear, as I understood it from the US, the LT230 is really poorly lubricated within the cross gears in the centre diff, and it is these that wear badly if the CDL isn't locked. I have seen pictures of these blued. I don't know how this applies to the LT95 but John Lee and Ho Chung were adamant that the CDL should be locked as soon as you hit dirt.

Personally..... with my setup CDL is locked when I go into low range.

[Slunnie]

Don't they 'wind up' in the case if there's not enough loss of traction? I've heard stories of people having to back up a long way before they were able to disengage.
Yes, but they are designed to cope with that. Wind up has to occur whenever you lock the CDL. The box is pretty strong so I wouldn't worry about it breaking.

There is only so much windup a box can have, so its more a question of the wind up pressure rather than it winding up like the spring in a wind up toy. If its not unlocking then drive turning the wheel left to right etc, or put the handbrake on and apply drive pressure against it in either direction. These techniques will release the pressure from the locking mechanism to unlock it.

[CapeLandy]

as a slight aside from the above if I may....

When I jack up my Defender Puma wheels (any one) I get the wheel spinning back as if there is a slight wind or tension on the drive train.
When I jacked up the front tyre on my Ser III yesterday with the front hubs unlocked I also noticed the wheel spun from being in some tension.
Wonder how this is possible??

[100I]

How many very fast 2wd rally cars you see these days?
CDL locked on any loose or slippery surface without a doubt improves the handling and predictability.
Even can be used on patches of wet tar as required if it's slippery enough. Especially those on muds eh?;) [which in some very small way also slightly offsets windup thru tread squirm]
On gravel etc, it will help alleviate tramping on corrugations and allows predictable traction. With an unlocked the power transfer fore and aft gives unpredictable handling.
Mind you, popping the bonnet must be a PITA. Sounds like you want to look at a new mod to it to bring it inside the cab

[Mudsloth]

I use my cdl only when things get muddy or very loose, as far as wind up is concerned if it takes more than half a metre then its time for a service. I've driven long distances (60 to 80km at freeway speeds) at high speed with cdl on, once the transfer linkages were jammed the second i snapped the rear drive axle and both times i only had to reverse about a metre. as far as wear is concerned, better to wear out than rust out dude! If ur still worried, get diff locks man, ull never have to worry bout a cdl again aka YouTube - mudsloth's Channel (http://www.youtube.com/mudsloth)

[Larry]

I usually put it in, makes the car more controllable, especially in loose dirt.

Baz.

X2 :thumbsup:

[Grover-98]

My Pinzgauer when in 4x4 has the CDL in automatically and handles great :)

[Mudsloth]

if it takes more than a coupla meters to "unwind" then its time for a service or ur possibly ur linkages are jamming, i have driven with cdl engaged for long periods of time at freeway speeds twice, once when the selector was jammed and again when i broke the rear drive axle. both times the cdle disengaged within half a meter of reversing. As far as when to use it, well, do u think ur going to get stuck? Hehe...get front and rear diff locks and never worry about the cdl again aka YouTube - mudsloth's Channel (http://www.youtube.com/mudsloth)

[D110V8D]

I always pull on me knob when I hit the dirt......always.:)

[Slunnie]

I always pull on me knob when I hit the dirt......always.:)
Thats when you know the fun is about to start! :lol2:

[D110V8D]

Correct. It's time to get dirty.:D:D:D

[barney]

that's as long as you don't let things get too slippery, hey mick?

if you chock your wheels before you jack it up, like you should, then stick it in neutral and take off the handbrake, this will relieve the tension in the drive train and you will not get any spinning of the wheels. if you are on a big slope then you may need to reapply the handbrake before jacking, but in most cases you should be right.

usually only takes about 50m at highway speed to disengage (vacuum CDL), i just back off the power for a sec so there is no torque working through the drive train and out she pops!

[Bush65]

The centre diff pinions are steel on steel and their thrust washers are copper alloy. These suffer wear from poor lubrication if there is appreciable wheel spin with the centre diff unlocked.

The centre diff is not particularly robust and is intended for on road (relatively smooth, high traction) use - hardly suitable for off road.

On loose surfaces or uneven terrain where any wheel becomes lightly loaded, any torque wind-up will release when the centre diff is locked - no different to 4x4 with no centre diff.

IMHO there is nothing to loose, and everything to gain from locking the centre diff offroad.

[McDisco]

I always pull on me knob when I hit the dirt......always.:)

Yeah thanks for the Mick! :D Lovely contribution...:p

I pretty much lock mine straight away on the dirt, in high or low range. Makes the car handle better. Sometimes if its a high traction dirt road I dont run it cause of potential wind up. But there isnt many of them...

Angus

[PhilipA]

Er AFAIR there is a little plaque on the dash of LT95 rangies that says
"Do not engage centre diff lock until traction is lost"
IMHO that does not include normal dirt roads.
I cannot see how you would get wheelspin just cruising on a dirt road.
Perhaps Land Rover would know.
Regards Philip A

[mcrover]

I use my cdl only when things get muddy or very loose, as far as wind up is concerned if it takes more than half a metre then its time for a service. I've driven long distances (60 to 80km at freeway speeds) at high speed with cdl on, once the transfer linkages were jammed the second i snapped the rear drive axle and both times i only had to reverse about a metre. as far as wear is concerned, better to wear out than rust out dude! If ur still worried, get diff locks man, ull never have to worry bout a cdl again aka YouTube - mudsloth's Channel (http://www.youtube.com/mudsloth)

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.

[B92 8NW]

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.

What about tarmac trailer backing, low speed manoeuvres etc?

[Slunnie]

Also not an option on some Disco2, but I agree. Low range and CDL go together.

[StephenF10]

What about tarmac trailer backing, low speed manoeuvres etc?

Exactly. I tow a caravan and always use unlocked low range to move it in and out of the yard and position it on site. I even used it for a couple of kms towing uphill on a steep bitumen road. It's nothing to do with traction; idling slowly along in low range without touching the accelerator makes reversing the van easier.

If traction was an issue I would lock the CDL.

Stephen.
'01 TD5 D2 Auto

[rick130]

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.


BS !
I've already done this this morning and the Centre diff has survived :p <edit> admittedly it was only a short section of about 10m that was pretty nasty and needed low range.
Maxed out the travel front and back too.

I never lock the CDL in on dirt, like Big Jon I reckon it steers better , particularly turn in without it engaged and I'd reckon I drive more dirt over a variety of surfaces in one week than most of you in a month. :p
Just before Chrissy I was racking up at least 60-80km of dirt a day which changed from crushed shale to black soil to sand to good road base to gravel. The only time I locked the CDL was when I hit the sand. This is just going to and from a customer.

As for what 100I said about rally cars, last time I checked an LT85, LT95 and LT230 were full time 4WD, so not sure what the 2WD analogy has to do with the price of fish, and AFAIK none of them have 100% locking of the centre diff ! (yeah, yeah, I know the original Audi Quattro had a CDL) :D

[87County]

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.

interesting thread, BUT ?????

Please explain to me why - I don't understand - I have had to use CDL in low range for traction on occasions, but otherwise I generally leave it unlocked

How can driving in low range (CDL in or out) damage (brake? (or is it break?)) the CDL ??

[weeds]

...get front and rear diff locks and never worry about the cdl again aka YouTube - mudsloth's Channel (http://www.youtube.com/mudsloth)


hey mudsloth....can you expand on this comment or maybe somebody else can, are you saying that diff locks protect the CDL or if you have diff locks you don't need a CDL

in answer to the first post i generally engage CDL on dirt roads, even better now that i discovered i didn't have to stop the car to engage....

i drove a couple of thousands km's on my simpson desert trip with CDL engaged, speeds ranged from 5km/hr to 100km/hr

[weeds]

and...i regularly use low range/unlocked to save the clutch when reversing the trailer/caravan

[PhilipA]

Geez, the thing that kills the centre diff is a BIG speed differential between the front and back axles, like when you are going up a very steep hill and a front goes airborne, and you just keep the boot in with CDL unlocked.

Similarly this is what causes rear diffs to blow, ie when a rear is spinning and the driver just keeps the boot in thinking that he will magically find traction.
It is DRIVER behaviour that breaks diffs.

I know a club member who shall remain nameless who could break a diff on a normal bush track and did it over and over, yet everyone else had no problems.
Is this yet another X-Y generation excuse to blame anything but themselves for unfortunate events??? Gee I am a victim. They should have TOLD me not to sit there wheelspinning.
This whole posting is IMHO bull. It is not whether you should do this or that at some time or other . It is having the common sense to know what is mechanically sympathetic and what is not.
Regard sPhilip A

[Slunnie]

How did Gen X-Y come into it? GenIII I could perhaps understand. :D

[100I]

As for what 100I said about rally cars, last time I checked an LT85, LT95 and LT230 were full time 4WD, so not sure what the 2WD analogy has to do with the price of fish, and AFAIK none of them have 100% locking of the centre diff ! (yeah, yeah, I know the original Audi Quattro had a CDL) :D

OK a VC is not 100% locking but it is arguably more locking than an unlocked CDL.
Lock in my answer Eddie.:D

[PhilipA]

Generation X in the United States



Originally termed the spoiled generation, their sheltered perspective and material pop culture (pop music/MTV) helped to promote a sense of entitlement. This generation was very consumer and media savvy; it had the "no drugs and safe sex mantras" as an antidote for the prior generations' mistakes. In many ways Generation X was decidedly independent and pampered



Generation Y

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



Generation Y, sometimes referred to as "Millennials"[1] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generation_Y#cite_note-Shapira-0) or "Net Generation" is the group of people born anywhere between the second half of the 1970's and anywhere from the mid 1990s to around the year 2000, depending on the source.[2] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generation_Y#cite_note-Tovar2007-1)
Generation Y is a cohort (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cohort_%28statistics%29) identified as born after the Generation X (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Generation_X) cohort, though the term is itself controversial and is synonymous with several alternative terms including The Net Generation, Millennials, Echo Boomers, iGeneration, and Google Generation.

Also may be typified by "its not MY fault" , trauma counselling, social workers. Buying cars by number of airbags or "safety ratings"
We used to use the term "DOLLY DID IT" whenever our kids tried it.
Regard sPhilip A

[Slunnie]

I understand what the Gens are in those somewhat "selected" definitions, I'm just not sure how or why that got brought into this whole discussion or its relevance to the use of CDL.

[Redback]

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.

If that's the case, then why do LR give the option of putting it in or leaving it out, also early D2s have no choice;)

Baz.

[PhilipA]

I understand what the Gens are in those somewhat "selected" definitions, I'm just not sure how or why that got brought into this whole discussion or its relevance to the use of CDL.
Slunnie, Ithought it was clear from the rest of the post.

It is about personal skill and responsibility vs formulaic answers

ie It is up to the driver to decide when to engage CDL depending on circumstances.
There are no set rules like"CDL must be engaged on a dirt road"
There of course IS the set rule that CDL should be disengaged on hard surfaces, but I have seen many people drive onto a rock shelf and turn on full lock with CDL engaged and ask why are my tyres screeching? and why is the driveline going clunk clunk?.
I guess this is also a problem arising from the "dumbing down" of 4WD with TC and "Terrain Response"
IMHO the answer is "read the road" If you see wombat holes ahead , engage CDL, if you see a mudhole engage CDL, If you are climbing a steep hill with step ups engage CDL. , but then disengage on the majority of most roads and tracks where the going is easy, and disengage if you are turning hairpins, or on rock.
In all cicumstances avoid wheelspin . Do not sit at a step wheelspinning. Ease back a metre and try again.
I wonder how many asking these questions have done driver training, although maybe driver training these days has to dumbed down also.
Regard sPhilip A

__________________

[mcrover]

Until you kill your centre diff in about 2 secs in low range...:(

NEVER drive in low range without the centre diff locked, you WILL brake it.

After seeing several broken centre diffs as a result of very high torque load and then a very sharp stop of a spinning wheel(wheels in one case with front and rear diffs locked) this is a conclusion I have come to, your all grown ups, if you dont want to brake it then lock it when OFF ROAD(as what was inferred by the previous poster) and in low range.


What about tarmac trailer backing, low speed manoeuvres etc?

As I just said, I was meaning when off road as what the previous poster had mentioned locking F/R diff locks.

Do you put F/R diff locks in when on a sealed surface?


BS !
I've already done this this morning and the Centre diff has survived :p <edit> admittedly it was only a short section of about 10m that was pretty nasty and needed low range.
Maxed out the travel front and back too.Thats how they can easilly get broken, when a wheel lights up and then suddenly stops when you roll back into a rut or hole etc and the power/momentum has nowhere to go, all the forces stop at the centre diff and bang, there it goes, centre pin snapped in half and your on a tow truck.

I never lock the CDL in on dirt, like Big Jon I reckon it steers better , particularly turn in without it engaged and I'd reckon I drive more dirt over a variety of surfaces in one week than most of you in a month. :p
Just before Chrissy I was racking up at least 60-80km of dirt a day which changed from crushed shale to black soil to sand to good road base to gravel. The only time I locked the CDL was when I hit the sand. This is just going to and from a customer.

As for what 100I said about rally cars, last time I checked an LT85, LT95 and LT230 were full time 4WD, so not sure what the 2WD analogy has to do with the price of fish, and AFAIK none of them have 100% locking of the centre diff ! (yeah, yeah, I know the original Audi Quattro had a CDL) :D


interesting thread, BUT ?????

Please explain to me why - I don't understand - I have had to use CDL in low range for traction on occasions, but otherwise I generally leave it unlocked

How can driving in low range (CDL in or out) damage (brake? (or is it break?)) the CDL ??

When a wheel lifts up and then suddenly stops when you roll back into a rut or hole etc and the power/momentum has nowhere to go, all the forces stop at the centre diff and bang, there it goes, centre pin snapped in half and your on a tow truck.


and...i regularly use low range/unlocked to save the clutch when reversing the trailer/caravan

Thats why it is selectable, as I have said, it was infered that we were talking off road in low traction situations where you would use F/R diff locks.


Geez, the thing that kills the centre diff is a BIG speed differential between the front and back axles, like when you are going up a very steep hill and a front goes airborne, and you just keep the boot in with CDL unlocked.No, thats why it is there, not what kills them

Similarly this is what causes rear diffs to blow, ie when a rear is spinning and the driver just keeps the boot in thinking that he will magically find traction.
It is DRIVER behaviour that breaks diffs.It is the sudden stop that kills them, kinda like anything, the speed isnt the issue, it is how quick it stops that will do it

I know a club member who shall remain nameless who could break a diff on a normal bush track and did it over and over, yet everyone else had no problems.
Is this yet another X-Y generation excuse to blame anything but themselves for unfortunate events??? Gee I am a victim. They should have TOLD me not to sit there wheelspinning.
This whole posting is IMHO bull. It is not whether you should do this or that at some time or other . It is having the common sense to know what is mechanically sympathetic and what is not.
Regard sPhilip A

There is no such thing as Common sense, common is refering to people as all thinking the same way, this just doesnt happen.

Mechanical sympathy is another story though and is the point that should be on the top of everyone who doesnt have a million dollars in the banks list of priorities.


If that's the case, then why do LR give the option of putting it in or leaving it out, also early D2s have no choice;)

Baz.

So you can use it on a sealed surface without winding up the front and rear axels and tailshafts to back your boat up the driveway but then again, I have seen on broken when it skipped up a gutter, got a wheel spinning and then no drive, broken centre diff so I will leave that one up to you as well.

As far as the D2, LR thought that you wouldnt need to use it with Traction control........they were wrong or you guys use your D2's beyond what they are built for, that one I will leave up to you as well.

[350RRC]

Hi,

I don't use low range often, but I've never considered it mandatory to lock the CDL when I do. I think breaking things would be less likely with open F&R diffs and an open CDL.

Isn't that why axles need upgrading when lockers are fitted?

I only use the CDL when I get bogged.

Just for info I did accidently drive about 1000kms on bitumen with the CDL on. Caused a weird tyre wear pattern and had a very slight vibration, but no lasting damage.

cheers, DL

[Xtreme]

Hi,

I don't use low range often, but I've never considered it mandatory to lock the CDL when I do. I think breaking things would be less likely with open F&R diffs and an open CDL.

Isn't that why axles need upgrading when lockers are fitted?

I only use the CDL when I get bogged.

Just for info I did accidently drive about 1000kms on bitumen with the CDL on. Caused a weird tyre wear pattern and had a very slight vibration, but no lasting damage.

cheers, DL

1000kms is a long way to drive while trying to get out of a bog.:o:wasntme:

Roger

[Scallops]

I remember Grizzly Adams telling me that in the LR Handbook for his TDI 110, it recommended to use the CDL whenever the vehicle was used off road. So that was Land Rover's actual factory recommendation - always use off road. ;)

Personally, I only do so if the dirt is anything other than smooth or if driving in sand or through water/over rocks. Just make sure there is no wheel spin before engaging it if you are not stationary.

[350RRC]

1000kms is a long way to drive while trying to get out of a bog.:o:wasntme:

Roger

The young son of a friend of mine came up to the Grampians. Played with all switches in the RRC. CDL light was out of adjustment, so there was no indication it was on till the tyres started getting the weird feathering wear pattern.

I had to laugh when this same kid opened a knife he wasn't supposed to touch that locks open (don't know what they're called) and could figure out how to unlock and close it. Very sheepish look.

cheers, DL

[Xtreme]

I hope you've adjusted that CDL light since that episode.

Roger

[350RRC]

I remember Grizzly Adams telling me that in the LR Handbook for his TDI 110, it recommended to use the CDL whenever the vehicle was used off road. So that was Land Rover's actual factory recommendation - always use off road. ;)

Personally, I only do so if the dirt is anything other than smooth or if driving in sand or through water/over rocks. Just make sure there is no wheel spin before engaging it if you are not stationary.

Hi,

The plate under the heater controls in my RRC is very clear in stating that the CDL should only be used when traction is lost at one or more wheels and should be disengaged immediately traction is regained.

It also says that wide throttle openings should not be used in 1st or 2nd low range with the CDL engaged to avoid unnecessary wear and possible damage.

cheers, DL

[Scallops]

Hi,

The plate under the heater controls in my RRC is very clear in stating that the CDL should only be used when traction is lost at one or more wheels and should be disengaged immediately traction is regained.

It also says that wide throttle openings should not be used in 1st or 2nd low range with the CDL engaged to avoid unnecessary wear and possible damage.

cheers, DL

It must be a big plate to get all that info on it!

[350RRC]

It must be a big plate to get all that info on it!

Its 190 x 80 mm. Someone will post a pic. I don't know how and I am not going to learn how today.

cheers, DL

[MacMan]

CDL locked on anything more off road than a long straight hard packed dirt road. I've found that it makes handling far more predictable in corners, especially if pushing along at pace or caught by surprise with another vehicle coming the other way. Initial response is under steer unless braking, then completely predictable over steer. The times I have been caught without the CDL in, it's the other way around - swapping to understeer if one of the fronts has poor traction. I'd rather go around a corner sideways than not at all!

[BigJon]

It must be a big plate to get all that info on it!


About this size...


http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/6403/picture070kj7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/picture070kj7.jpg/1/w640.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img377/picture070kj7.jpg/1/)

[robert42]

Thank you one and all for the info on CDL. I had know idea it would bring such a responce...Have read each one , I think it will be in ,on wet and sandy roads or if bogged or wet grassy surface.. ect...Thank you all again.. My D2 has TC so dont know if that makes any differance..Bob..

[rick130]

Thats how they can easilly get broken, when a wheel lights up and then suddenly stops when you roll back into a rut or hole etc and the power/momentum has nowhere to go, all the forces stop at the centre diff and bang, there it goes, centre pin snapped in half and your on a tow truck.


yep, agree 100%, but I knew that wasn't going to happen as I idled through in 2nd low. (and gone back through again today)

Your original assertion was lock it in low range 100% of the time. Good advice for a newbie.........sometimes........depending on the situation. :D

Also why JacMc make the one piece cross shaft to suit. It shouldn't break as readily if the CDL is accidentally forgotten.


as an aside, I read somewhere once that the diff gears in the LT85 were originally Dana 44 side gears, (as it was used in the rear of certain Jags, and hence in the parts bin) is this correct ?
What about the LT230 ?

[Bush65]

Notice plate in my RRC, but I stick with what I said in my 1st post in this thread.

[Bush65]

...
as an aside, I read somewhere once that the diff gears in the LT85 were originally Dana 44 side gears, (as it was used in the rear of certain Jags, and hence in the parts bin) is this correct ?
What about the LT230 ?
I think you're confusing LT95 and LT85, which has the LT230 t/case.

I remember Bill Larman posting what the centre diff gears for LT95 and later LT230 matched up with, but can't remember what it was.

As the gears in the centre diff are tiny, there is no way I could imagine them in an Dana 44 - I have worked on jag diffs but was a long time ago.

[100I]

Interestingly, that RRC label states 'engage diff lock before traction is likely to be lost'.

Simply read the terrain, don't be scared to lock it if traction is going to be compromised and of course be aware of what wind up is so you know when to unlock it, again ahead of time.

[Bush65]

Hi,

I don't use low range often, but I've never considered it mandatory to lock the CDL when I do. I think breaking things would be less likely with open F&R diffs and an open CDL.

Isn't that why axles need upgrading when lockers are fitted?

I only use the CDL when I get bogged.

Just for info I did accidently drive about 1000kms on bitumen with the CDL on. Caused a weird tyre wear pattern and had a very slight vibration, but no lasting damage.

cheers, DL
With the centre diff locked off road, the load is better distributed between the front and rear axles, so less load on some.

I've had front and rear lockers on my rangie for many years. It isn't necessary to upgrade axles when lockers are fitted. In most cases lockers allow you to negotiate obstacles with a lost less right foot and less load on drive train - it all depends on how you drive.

The only extra load lockers impose on the axles (neglecting wind-up if used inappropriately on hard surfaces), is if one tyre is in the air and the one on the ground is spinning at high speed, then when the vehicle moves and spinning airborne tyre suddenly comes down, then there can be very high shock loads on the axle.

[Edit]: another situation where lockers will increase load on axles, is when a tyre is jambed in rocks. [end edit]

On rock ledges it is often necessary to spin the tyres a lot to get traction - this is when you need lockers AND upgraded axles. It is not simply because a diff is locked - it is the situation and how it is driven.

IMHO blaming locked diffs for causing axles to fail is missunderstanding the situation.:mad:

Also, IMHO, it is uterly foolish and stupid and can, in some situations be irresponsible to wait until you are bogged before locking the centre diff.:mad:

[rick130]

I think you're confusing LT95 and LT85, which has the LT230 t/case.

I remember Bill Larman posting what the centre diff gears for LT95 and later LT230 matched up with, but can't remember what it was.

As the gears in the centre diff are tiny, there is no way I could imagine them in an Dana 44 - I have worked on jag diffs but was a long time ago.

yep, a typo.

I blame James Boag. :D

[grover7488]

In the 03 D2 manual it says......



WHEN TO USE THE DIFF LOCK
As a general rule , the differential should be locked only in order to drive on loose or slippery off-road surfaces. ALWAYS unlock the differential for normal road driving or as soon as a surface giving good grip is reached whether high or low gears are selected.

WARNING
Do not drive at speeds in excess of 60 km/h with the diff locked, otherwise it may, under certain situations affect the brake performance under ABS conditions

WARNING
if driven on normal road surfaces with the diff locked, the steering will feel stiff, excessive tyre wear will occur and the transmission will be 'wound up' putting excessive strain on the transmission

[Rover110]

Hi,

Ok im a little confused, I went driving on the weekend up a river bed which has some wet sand spots and some very loose sand spots. The whole way (20km) I was just in low range, no cdl engaged.
Will this cause damage to anything or could it have caused damaged to anything?

Thanks

[BigJon]

If you were getting wheel spin there is a potential for damage.

I often drive on sand without the centre diff locked. Providing there is no wheel spin it isn't a problem.

Generally speaking if I am using low range I will also use the CDL. The only exception is when I use low range for better speed control while reversing a trailer on hard surfaces.