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View Full Version : Adjusting Negative Camber / Castor



oliver1981
5th February 2009, 09:27 AM
Hi all,

The Tardis suffers from some serious negative camber.

At first I thought bent diff housing but this has been checked and is not the case.

Given that mine has the county sprung front end. What adjustment can be made (if any) at the chrome balls?

Cheers

PS: Garry - 3rd time lucky and all registered in the ACT!

mike 90 RR
5th February 2009, 10:02 AM
Hi all,

The Tardis suffers from some serious negative camber.

At first I thought bent diff housing but this has been checked and is not the case.

Given that mine has the county sprung front end. What adjustment can be made (if any) at the chrome balls?

Cheers

PS: Garry - 3rd time lucky and all registered in the ACT!

I'm not the expert on your model .... But this might give you some ideas

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/70107-caster-corrected-front-swivels-how-do.html

Mike

:)

mike 90 RR
5th February 2009, 10:12 AM
And another on the subject .... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/34532-look-i-slotted-my-balls.html

Of course ... this is only to be done if all your rubbers on the suspension is all in good order ... and you have no other place to adjust

Mike

:)

101RRS
5th February 2009, 12:58 PM
PS: Garry - 3rd time lucky and all registered in the ACT!

So what did they give you grief on second time around?

lambrover
5th February 2009, 02:23 PM
the camber can not be changed, the caster can be and the toe angle can be.:D

mike 90 RR
5th February 2009, 05:22 PM
the camber can not be changed, the caster can be and the toe angle can be.:D

My above links deal with the castor .... But for camber ...Can the swivel balls be (or have been) installed "upside down"?? .. by any chance

;)

Lotz-A-Landies
5th February 2009, 06:51 PM
the camber can not be changed, the caster can be and the toe angle can be.:DActually, camber can be changed.

A friend had it done on a series swivel housing to reduce the factory set camber. It was done by milling the outer face of the housing, taking nothing off the bottom and tapering to about 2mm at the top I seem to remember it was 1.5 degrees. The stub axle was then replaced with the original bolts having a slight angularity in their insertion within the tolerance of the bolt and spring washer.

Diana

mike 90 RR
5th February 2009, 07:38 PM
It was done by milling the outer face of the housing



I had the same thoughts :)

But if you mill the face ... There is the sleeve faces for the "axle seal" and the "axle collar" that has to be adjusted / milled also ... (where the axle goes through the housing)

oliver1981
7th February 2009, 10:49 AM
thanks for the input guys. Will have a look into it.

Garry - They wouldn't pass me because the sink waste wasn't hooked up!
I was sure to show them it working the third time. Including running the tap to demonstrate where the water exits the vehicle. Straight into the inspection pit!

101RRS
7th February 2009, 12:10 PM
And how is that a roadworthy issue? I am sure they just do what they want rather than follow the roadworthy regs.

Lotz-A-Landies
12th February 2009, 09:49 PM
I had the same thoughts :)

But if you mill the face ... There is the sleeve faces for the "axle seal" and the "axle collar" that has to be adjusted / milled also ... (where the axle goes through the housing)Mike

I think you have us machining the wrong bit. The thing that was milled was the face of the cast iron housing there the stub axle bolts on. (Shown in mauve in the following graphic.)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/02/862.jpg

Because the bottom stays in the same relationship and there is only a couple of mm taken off the top any changes are compensated by the uni-joint and the nut on the end of the half-shaft being a bit of a turn tighter, The bearings and seals are otherwise the same and even the OEM paper gasket if you use it is the same.

Diana