rear toe

[trobbo]

Had the wheel alignment on my series 1 disco adjusted it today. Boy did it need it.

Front was +2.3mm & +30.2mm. After -1.1 on both sides. I guess that happens when you change track rods.

Anyway the interesting thins was the rear toe+2.1 and -8.1.
Now I am sure it would be better than this when new.... wouldn't it?
So would would cause it to have such a big discrepancy. Bent trailing arm, bent chassis??? Rear camber if it matters is -1.8 and -0.48

[BigJon]

I hope -1.1 doesn't mean it was set with toe in. If so, they got it WRONG. It should have toe OUT.

As for the rear spec, maybe something is bent.

[JDNSW]

Rear toe in (and camber) should be zero. The only way the toe in at the rear can be anything else except this or equal and opposite is either a bent axle housing, loose wheel bearings - or bent wheel(s) or bulging tyres, assuming the measurement is off the tyres.

The equal/opposite component, which you have in part, could be "Bent trailing arm, bent chassis", but is far more likely to be one or more of the bushes locating the rear axle at each end of the lower links (trailing arms) or the A-frame bushes or ball joint. Any departure from zero on the camber at the rear will most likely be a bent axle housing or loose wheel bearings, if it is not from the wheels and tyres.

John

[p38arover]

I hope -1.1 doesn't mean it was set with toe in. If so, they got it WRONG. It should have toe OUT.

As for the rear spec, maybe something is bent.

Agreed!

[p38arover]

Had the wheel alignment on my series 1 disco adjusted it today. Boy did it need it.

Front was +2.3mm & +30.2mm. After -1.1 on both sides. I guess that happens when you change track rods.

I seriously doubt that 30mm figure. You couldn't possibly get it wrong by that much when changing a track rod. Besides which you'd see it - EASILY!

[rick130]

I seriously doubt that 30mm figure. You couldn't possibly get it wrong by that much when changing a track rod. Besides which you'd see it - EASILY!

I'm wondering if he's been given an angular measurement (degrees, minutes, seconds)

[rick130]

Had the wheel alignment on my series 1 disco adjusted it today. Boy did it need it.

Front was +2.3mm & +30.2mm. After -1.1 on both sides. I guess that happens when you change track rods.

Anyway the interesting thins was the rear toe+2.1 and -8.1.
Now I am sure it would be better than this when new.... wouldn't it?
So would would cause it to have such a big discrepancy. Bent trailing arm, bent chassis??? Rear camber if it matters is -1.8 and -0.48

Hmm, nearly 2* negative camber on the rear ?
Mate, that would stick out like the dogs proverbial's, 2* is a bucket load of camber. Even 1/2 a degree (0.48*) is noticeable to the naked eye when looking from the rear.

The rear ends can sport a little toe in or out from what I've measured, I think it comes from when they've come out of the jig, and as the boys above have mentioned, any play at all in the bearings will show up as a toe and camber measurement. It's the nature of full floating bearing hubs.
Having said that, a measurement of toe in one side and out the other points to either a bent lower trailing arm, bent outrigger, bent chassis or flogged bushes.
Did they measure the wheelbase either side from the centreline of each hub ? This can point to bent arms.

I'd either take it back, take it somewhere else, or if you feel confident, set up a parallel string line right around the car at hub centreline height and measure yourself. It isn't that hard, just takes time and you just have to check and re-check and with a good steel rule and fine string you can get under 0.5mm accuracy on toe measurements, or as accurate as the wheels and tyres are.
For accuracy, set the string line up off the chassis centreline. This may take some time and measuring but it will give you very accurate measurements.

[p38arover]

I'm wondering if he's been given an angular measurement (degrees, minutes, seconds)

Possibly - but it couldn't be 30 degrees! :o

:D:D

And 30 minutes is only half a degree.

[rovercare]

I seriously doubt that 30mm figure. You couldn't possibly get it wrong by that much when changing a track rod. Besides which you'd see it - EASILY!

Nah quite easy and hard to spot

Although, should of done the alignment with a tape measure, to get close to dot on;)

[rovercare]

I hope -1.1 doesn't mean it was set with toe in. If so, they got it WRONG. It should have toe OUT.

As for the rear spec, maybe something is bent.


That would be why its a negative figure;)

[rovercare]

Sounds as though

1. your housing is bent

2. your wheel aligner man is a nuffy

Grab the tape and string and get gawking:D

[Blknight.aus]

I vote for option 2.

[trobbo]

Thanks guys, thinking about it I agree the guy is a tool. I have rechecked my sheet and it definately says +30mm toe on the right. Well I know that the left had excess toe from some tyre wear, but it was wearing on the outside of the tyre so it had too much toe in. the right tyre was about right. And 30 mm of toe - you would definately see that.

[Dougal]

On my RRC the front axle was offset, which most wheel alignment guys are incapable of finding and results in toe in/out readings for both back wheels. Of course the toe readings should be identical but opposite or something is bent.

I had a wheel alignment guy not worried about 6mm rear toe once. I've had others tell me they can adjust caster and caster on solid axles.:no2:

[rick130]

On my RRC the front axle was offset, which most wheel alignment guys are incapable of finding and results in toe in/out readings for both back wheels. Of course the toe readings should be identical but opposite or something is bent.

I had a wheel alignment guy not worried about 6mm rear toe once. I've had others tell me they can adjust caster and caster on solid axles.:no2:

That's where finding the chassis centreline and setting up a parallel string line from that helps.
You know straight away what's what.


I had the camber/caster altered on the Patrol, the bloke I took it too used an eccentric swivel bearing outer race.
Not available AFAIK for Land Rovers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Dougal]

I had the camber/caster altered on the Patrol, the bloke I took it too used an eccentric swivel bearing outer race.
Not available AFAIK for Land Rovers.

http://www.truckalign.com.au/Alignment/images/OEMCOL.gif

This turkey was talking about my rangies rear axle.:o

[rovercare]

That's where finding the chassis centreline and setting up a parallel string line from that helps.
You know straight away what's what.


I had the camber/caster altered on the Patrol, the bloke I took it too used an eccentric swivel bearing outer race.
Not available AFAIK for Land Rovers.

http://www.truckalign.com.au/Alignment/images/OEMCOL.gif


For Camber, the king pin inclination is all wrong in Patrols, their front end geometry is:(

[rick130]

This turkey was talking about my rangies rear axle.:o

He must have a bloody big press :D