Getting talked out of Lift

[Sven_040]

Hi there, Why is my mechanic trying to talk me out of a 2inch lift? He says all he would want to see on my car is a 1inch spring lift? He is saying issues with handling, castor and the old "front tailshaft". After searching previous threads and the internet for months, is a 2inch lift really going to EXPLODE! (slight dramatisation) the front tailshaft?

I really want those 265/75/16's

Thoughts?

PS: 2000 D2 TD5 Auto 179kms, Sahara bar, winch lights, custom rear bar, drawers. Towing matching (LR Rims 245's) builders trailer every day

Thanks in advance

[Hastykiwi]

2000 D2 with a sahara bar?:eek::) You must post photos and a tutorial on how u fitted it.

Nick

[dullbird]

I could be wrong but I thought you could get 32's under with out a lift in a D2...I'm sure redback will be along or slunnie to answer your questions as I believe both have a 4" lift in theirs

[LandyAndy]

265s should go on your D2 @ standard height unless its badly sagging.
No castor correction needed on the D2 with a 2" lift.
Andrew

[Tombie]

Your mechanics being silly ;)

But.... Being a 2000 model, I'd recommend rebuilding front shaft at same time..

Your uni Joints have been running at their current angle a long time and changing that will not help them!

[Slunnie]

Yeah 2" is very common on the D2, but to fit 265/75-16 you will need a bullbar. I would do it... well, actually I and lots others have. Castor isn't a prob. You'll more than likely find that many 2" lifts only net about 40mm anyway, and full 2" lift will only take most D2's to juuuuust out of spec according to the tolerances given in RAVE.

But, just be aware of the front shaft and sensitive to any vibrations or noises as they have the potential to be nasty if they break. I do run a 4" lift, but when driving the car hard I will do a front prop every 12 months. Since running bigger unis and reducing the high impact driving the shafts have been living well.

[justinc]

Does your mech drive a Volvo and wear funny hats??:p:p

Seriously speaking a 2" lift on a D2 is a good thing, helps save a bit of the rear plastics etc for one:o
It won't upset handling on a D2 as much as a D1, but as Tombie2 and Slunnie recommend, replace or rebuild the front shaft.
MAKE SURE that decent shocks are used, that is a whole new thread in itself though:angel::wasntme:

JC

[Slunnie]

Does your mech drive a Volvo and wear funny hats??:p:p
Oi, you leave Sneigy alone! :lol2: Nah, Sneigy used to run lifts also.


Really good point about shocks - and I would argue that they make more difference to the ride and handling than the springs. Everybody talks about springs, makes, designs, rates, lengths etc etc etc and then just throw on X brand of shock because jimbob said they were good with many not even checking lengths let alone construction, valving, bush material etc etc etc.

[Sprint]

2000 D2 with a sahara bar?:eek::) You must post photos and a tutorial on how u fitted it.

Nick

whats the problem with it? its an ARB product built for a D2

[Tombie]

whats the problem with it? its an ARB product built for a D2

Its an ARB product built for the Facelifted D2A only...

But with a little work can fit a D2

[Redback]

The only thing I can add is, when rebuilding the front shaft, use the greasable 1310 hardie spicer unis.

Baz.

[greg smith]

Done it on my 02TD5 disco, best thing since sliced bread,driving through recent floods near Igham[towing a boat] no probs. back roads ravenshoe to herbeton[silver valley] once again flooded conditions b grade dirt roads and river crossings--all OK 2"" lift no probs with sterring geom. front shaft already replaced a little stiffer ride[heavier shocks-raw] but still fine
Greg

[Sven_040]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

First of all The sahara bar is easy to fit, all you have to do is trim the plastic flap off the bottom of the plastic trim that sits below the headlights and then mark the line on the grill each side and trim with a hacksaw. thats it.

WE DONT SELL THINGS ON THIS FORUM

IS everyone sure that 265's will fit under the car at standard height. i thought it would rub numerous parts at full articulation? (has ACE)

I was thinking full Bilstien springs and shocks.

[Blknight.aus]

they will fit but the will rub a little at max lock on near full articulation the D1 was the same in that respect.

IMHO a 2 inch lift is the limit before you need to be worrying about castor angles and the propshaft BUT I would consider getting an extra inch into the brake lines.

I, like tombie2, reccomend rebuilding the shafts at the same time as a lift. Eyeball around for the results of a D2 front shaft letting go at the DC.

[rebeka]

Hi All,

I'm very new at this stuff, but can some one please explain why a 2 inch lift is better than one?

How much difference does a one inch as to a 2 inch make in the div, as I thought that was one of the main reasons to get the lift? And if I didn't have a whole pile of money to throw at this but needed to get my suspension fixed (so thought i may as well get a lift) what would be the best option? Do I have to do the prop with a 1 inch lift?

Are there any other issues that I should know about? like the brake lines?

Thanks!!!

[that_kid]

i myself did a 2 inch lift into my 01 about 2 months ago and have been wrapped in it,
i went and saw shane at suspension stuff and walked out with heavy duty dobinson springs and lovells shocks and was very happy with the price.

that same week the Double cardin in the front shaft failed so had the hole thing rebuilt with all new greasable numbers and its ready for another 200k.

as for the brake lines mine at absolute full flex the rears pull up tight and the fronts are fine, however i did remove all solid mounts so they just sorta sit there but no dramas.

castor isnt an issue either all youll need is a good wheel alignment and its right as rain

other then that i run 265/75s n the only rubbing ive had was on the front bar which was promplty sorted out with an angle grinder.

thought i might throw my experiences this far in there to confuse you a bit more but mine was a former SLS model and i have to say the articulation and on road manners has improved dramatically also as towing wasnt a real concern SLS wasnt a big deal.

this is my build thread if your interested in seeing whats been done to mine

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/71432-that_kid-joins-high-flyers.html

goodluck :)

[Blknight.aus]

have a look at you prop shaft now.

see how it has an "angle" to it?

if you lift it that angle will change and the UJ's will have to operate in a position that they currently dont normally operate in and will have settled into their current way of life. If you're unlucky when you try to make them do something new one or more will go on strike and your propshaft (or DC) will decide its now time to go visit your sump or your gearbox. This is usually not a cheap visit.

The 2 inch lift (depending on what springs you get) in reality nets you about 1.75 inches of lift (based on the D1, the last spring lift I did) and the owner complained that the steering was a bit vague. I cheated and toed it in to the toe in limit and he was happy but I suspect that it was close to needing castor correction. If your used to driving something that wanders then you dont need to worry about the castor thing (IMHO) untill you lift more than 2 inches. You will also pick up some "wallow" when cornering due to the extra height.

shockies bottoming out to aggressively and snapping welds can be a problem as can the extra articulation at the back end stressing the mounts of the shocky if the bushes are too stiff, its not a big issue but its been reported a couple of times.

Brakelines you need to check before you take it away from the suspension shop, have a look at full droop on a hoist and if there isnt a comfortable amount of slack you should consider getting slightly longer ones before you go out playing.

I would also suggest getting the panhard rod rebushed at the same time as the shockies.

Ive done plenty of D1's without having to change anything and the D2 isn't that radically different suspension wise.