Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day all,
I picked up my first Landy of my own yesterday.
She's a 63 or 64 SWB Truck Cab with a whole lot of originalness from what i can tell.
Loading up
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/1160.jpg

Cross-eyed tailgater
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/643.jpg

The noisy bit:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/1161.jpg

The user interface
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/895.jpg

Pure luxury
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/656.jpg

tidy bum
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/1162.jpg

And her pretty face.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/769.jpg

There is a canvas canopy, but no hood sticks-probably with owner-before-last so i'll have to chase him up.

So far, the radiator imitates a steam train, the brakes don't work, rear axles seals leak like crazy, the ignition key is almost worn out, door tops are rusty but replacements provided and there is a distinct need for some paint. Slightest bit of rust in the rear crossmember which could be cut and patched if I knew how to weld, the rest is pretty clean.


:D :D :D
Mark

[timaus13]

Hello Mark looks like you have scored a keeper.:D
Tanks for the pic,s enjoyed them.
What r ure plans for the future??
Looking forward to the progress of your new found Land Rover.
cheers
Tim

[Slunnie]

Was that the one on Ebay not long ago that had been in a Sydney dry storage warehouse along with a few other cars that the owner had to clear out?

If so I was watching the sale and thought that someone is going to get an absolute beauty of a shorty! It looks the same.

[Sleepy]

Nice one Mark:o:D!

Perhaps you should change your name to:

"Longing4sometimetoworkonmyLandy"

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Tim, Slunnie,
Yes, that was the one on ebay recently. I bid on it (needs a name asap) a year ago when the bloke I bought it from won it, it was the first vehicle I ever bid on!

This will become my daily driver, probably forcing me to ride my pushbike more often! I'll keep it as original as practical, but won't shy away from getting it dirty as often as I can. Wouldn't mind a 2.25D for economy reasons...

My options are to register the landy or keep on driving a corolla. Look out for the corolla on ebay :D

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Sleepy
Think I need a new forum name too :D lol

[JDNSW]

Looks rather good.

John

[Tommy]

Holy Cow Mark, that 'old girl' looks incredibly good for her age.

Look after her :)

[Slunnie]

Hi Tim, Slunnie,
Yes, that was the one on ebay recently. I bid on it (needs a name asap) a year ago when the bloke I bought it from won it, it was the first vehicle I ever bid on!

This will become my daily driver, probably forcing me to ride my pushbike more often! I'll keep it as original as practical, but won't shy away from getting it dirty as often as I can. Wouldn't mind a 2.25D for economy reasons...

My options are to register the landy or keep on driving a corolla. Look out for the corolla on ebay :D
Thats really cool then that after all of this time that it still eventually found its way into your hands.

When I first saw it on Ebay I was thinking that I would turn it into a hybrid on a Disco chassis, but it was too good for that. I dont think I've ever even seen (or noticed) one without indicators on the front wings. I'm glad that its having done to it what is most appropriate for it.

[isuzutoo-eh]

I dont think I've ever even seen (or noticed) one without indicators on the front wings.

Hi Slunnie, those white lenses contain bi-filament bulbs, they double as blinkers and parkers. A nice touch of charm. Only the left one works at the moment though.



Thanks for the comments everyone, much appreciated.
I will be sure to ask a bunch of 'how does this work' or 'what do I do here' questions over the next couple of weeks so please keep watch and add your thoughts where appropriate.
Cheers,
Mark

[dickyjoe]

Thats an absolute pearler. If you ever want to sell it.....

[digger]

:D"LFAL"

nice unit!

I havent ever seen the vents cut into the doors like that...but i recall what happened every time i kicked open the vent doors on my old toyota fj40 when i was living in coober pedy, marla or oodnadatta..............

a dust storm!!!!, be wearing sunnies, have your windows open and be able to stop if you have to!!!!:D


its a great looking unit, well done...

digger

[isuzutoo-eh]

Cheers DickyJoe and Digger,
Thanks for your comments.
Those door vents are sure to be nice while sedately cruising on-road in Summer! Straight up the trouser leg... :whistling:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


In the coming weeks i'll be looking for:

radiator (recore?) :(
radiator fan bearing
fuel filler tube (also extension-mine is rusty)
5 decent, matching tyres (currently no two alike)
Lucas blinker lenses x2 (rear)
Lucas brake lens x1
door locks :eek:
door seal rubbers
seat backs x3
mirrors (Shonky is on a mission at Corowa for me;) )
windscreen wiper arm x1
crank handle
wheel brace
hoodsticks would be nice
gumboots
raincoat
silastic
elbow grease
:wasntme:

If anyone has any of these items and would like to help a tragic LR enthusiast out, please do! PM, email, reply to this thread, all is welcome.

I have a 3 prong fuel cap surplus to requirements, mine is a 2 pronger and still works.

There is a glass Lucas '488' blinker lens amongst the bits n pieces, is this off a series 2a or something earlier? I imagine they aren't easy to come by now?

Cheers,
Mark

[HughP]

Mark
She looks a beauty. Dont you dare modify her, it is rare to see one in such original condition. Just get her plumbing sorted - its all easy stuff - and enjoy her originality. My 11A looks identical tho more dings and Hard Top.
Whats its engine No? (punched on top of block carby side) and Chassis No (under rear mudguard behind LH back wheel) That is a guide on getting the correct bits 'n pieces, not that you will have much to get of course!
I have had my SWB 11A for 10 years, and 30 years ago had a 11A 2 1/4 Wagon & went all over the country in that - slowly - grin.

[Shonky]

Must have missed this post in my big post-Corowa catch up mate! :o

I can confirm that the truck really is as good as the pictures suggest! :D:D:D

The motor is an absolute pearler, and it is mostly complete - should be a quick and easy fix up to get her on the road, and then take the cosmetics from there!


She needs a name though! Since you have taken on the old lady theme, maybe an old lady name?

Edith?
Ethel?
Dagmar?
Mavis?
Hazel?
Beatrice?
Agnes?
Mabel?

You can tell I worked in aged care once upon a time can't you... :angel:

When you get back from your jaunt out doing "you know what" :angel: I'll bring over the pressure gurney and we'll drop the tub and chase some spiders. :twisted: Sound good?

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Hugh,
Butchering will be minimal, and kept to practicality and safety as far as possible- I will need to live with her as my daily driver. I won't do anything that can't be undone if at all possible.

Shonky! Cheers for coming round with the bits and all. Glad Corowa was fun and Ambrose behaved!
I checked out the St Marys parts source, he didn't have much at all so I grabbed 30 odd LRO mags and a workshop manual. Should keep me enthused while on 'that' mission the coming week. Bring on the gurney :cool:

Names...
Well I once had a girlfriend who's middle name was Gertrude, but a mate's nickname is Gertie so that old lady doesn't work...and not too fussed on the others either :no2:

As a railway enthusiast.. -some steam engines had colourful names with Dirty Mary and The Green Beetle sticking in my mind. Its green, and its dirty. Hmmm...

Cheers,
Mark

[isuzutoo-eh]

Numbers:
Classic Land Rover VIN Calculator tells me:
Land Rover series 2A 88"

Model 243 Land Rover series 2A 88"
Model year 1962-1971
Body style Basic/Station Wagon
Engine Type 2.25l (2286cc) petrol
Market, steering CKD (Export), RHD
Serial Number .....
Suffix letter A 1. revision of this model. Suffix used from introduction in October 1961 to March 1963



I'd swap for a 120" or diesel County, won't settle for anything less :D

[aew849]

Sorry to abuse the old shakespeare, but like the old pom, you have found yourself a classic, so very well done.


aew849

[Turtle61]

Mate,

Looks like you've got a really nice SIIA.
As much as I like the 2.25 Diesel engine (transplanted into my SII - it didn't have the right engine anyway) in your case I'd keep the petrol. Keep it original - it is hard to find SII/SIIAs in original condition.
On the issue of safety: looks like you don't have seatbelts. Although not required by law if there weren't any originally, they are a bloody good idea. To keep it original you will have to source some extra seatbelt brackets for the truck cab and seatbox - these were optional extras on SIIAs.

[Shonky]

hahaha!

For what it's worth, I'm liking "the green beetle"... but it's your truck so the naming is all on you bud! :p

Looking at your list:

- Supercrap sells a wheel brace that fits landies - I have one for Ambrose that does the job.
- I'm just putting generic el cheapo mirrors on gus. Genuine ones are hard to get and small and crap and stuff. You can get old style ones that won't look out of place.
- What do you need seat backs for? :confused:
- I'll scrounge around the farm and see if I have some old water pipe lying around if you want. You could probably bend up some bodgy hood bows which would do the job for rego (as discussed) but wouldn't be authentic. ;)
- Happy to supply some elbow grease. B)

[MickS]

Mark

That is beautiful, well done. Love the owl eyes too. Just like my Basil. :):)

[Shonky]

Mark: regarding that glass lense...

Copy of rearlight_Lucas581_b (http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/pages/Copy%20of%20rearlight_Lucas581_b.htm)

[dickyjoe]

Where does one get those Brake/Tail Lens and blinker lens as shown? I need some for my S2a project...

[Shonky]

swap meets, wrecks, fellow scavengers...

Mark may be willing to part with that one?

[Sleepy]

I bought some lights from this mob.

MORRIS MINOR LIGHTS/FRONT/REAR : Morris Minor Parts - Morris Minor Spares Online Shop (http://www.morrisminor.uk.com/shop/lightingfrontrear-c-38.html)

Not sure if they have the larger plastic ones but have the L488 and L594 glass ones.

Delivery in 7 days.

[HughP]

Names... How about "Ermie" short for Ermantrude.
Bits.. I was disappointed in the longevity of stuff I got for mine from the popular place in Blackburn Vic. The door rubbers, bailey channel etc have not lasted, and replacement door locks not too good. Light lenses Ok. I think lots of stuff like that is made in India and a bit iffy.
...Your "Fan Bearing" is a water pump job but dont panic - its an easy changeover. Just carefully count the number of studs to get the correct one. I cant recommend you try to press new bits into the old pump - that is a grade 1 horrible ***** of a job.
... Radiator Recore. Maybe a good cleanout will sort it. Most 'real' radiador repair shops will unsolder the top tank & lift off, clean each tube like it never has been before, refit the tank and test. voila! As good as new! A few minor gaps in the finning wont matter much, nor will a missing tube or two in reality.
...Fuel filter tube ... Swap meet, or ask around. Its nice to know you dont have to carry a funnel and filter around with you 'cause your landy has it all built in. The rubber tube from filler to tank might be RS too - mine aint so good!
... Tyres.. I have 205 x 16 retreads on mine -tubed. Radials - WOW Cheap enough and zig zag tread. Seem OK and they have only ever gone flat on the bottom if at all.
... Seat backs . Try a car upholstery or canvas/camping trailer & repair place. They are simple swabs.
... Wiper Arm. Well having 2 wipers is a luxury you know, mine has only one. Optional extra an all that!!
For real English made good LR bits try Murray Hewatt 0260 768225 (Corryong Vic) He might have a Sydney contact. But once your bits are parcelled up and paid for it doesnt matter much where they come from or go to.

Maybe we should introduce our 2 series 11A's - They might mate and we get little ones! Then again they cud be cuzzins - thats a risk!! :) ... Hugh

[isuzutoo-eh]

Shonky came over to lend a hand with my beastie and stock me up with necessary bits and bobs.
First up we swapped the odd 5.5" rim for a 5" rim so now all 5 rims match.
After that, we removed the truck-cab
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/184.jpg

and took the tub off
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/185.jpg

A bit of Guerney action
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/186.jpg

and its a mostly good chassis
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/420.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/792.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1402.jpg



After snapping one bolt and hammering another to buggery, we took the towbar arrangement off, to find a lurvely great chasm of rust behind. No photos of the grizzly bits i'm afraid. I think someone about my size needs to learn to MIG.

After a good gloat over most of the chassis, and driving it 4 metres back to its hidey-hole, we put the bits back on and headed to BobLandies where I picked up the mark of the devil
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/03/187.jpg
-a brake light lense to replace a cracked one.

Thanks Andrew and Bob,

Cheers,
Mark

[Shonky]

Wasn't a bad afternoon's work eh?

Glad I could lend a hand - I know how difficult and often painful it can be trying to do it by yourself!

Thanks for the much needed break from working on my own beasties. It was good to share in your enthusiasm and be a part of the start of your project. It is all too easy to become encapsulated in ones own processes and get tunnel vision. ;)

She should be on the road before too long! :D

[Dmmos]

Mate I just messed my trousers :angel: - that thing is gorgeous...

I've been looking for something exactly like it for the last few months, I'm glad somebody here got it :)

Good luck with it all, it looks like a hell of a lot of fun (and PAIN :p)


This will become my daily driver, probably forcing me to ride my pushbike more often!

:Rolling:

PS. Your avatar gives me nightmares.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Well, I had a look at the brakes today, ex-owner thought the problem may be in the rear. Found a 4 way imperial wheel brace, pulled wheel, drum off and all seems clean, tidy and well, even a decent amount of meat on the pads. Pretty sure its the master cylinder now, trouble is the screws holding the top panel on are...stuck. Tomorrow shall take the bonnet off for easier access.

I Love Penetrating Spray!

On another topic, My IIa has single combined front indicator/parker lights in each guard. Could they be Series 1 guards?
refer to:
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp269/Burra2a/my2a/my2a_1.jpg
and one of Cooper's neighbour's 80":
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu8/cooperphoto2009/landypark002.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

[relick62au]

Regarding your frozen screw problem. I have had lots of success with a product called "Bolt Off", it's in a 300gr. aerosol, blue tin with white bold writing. The stuff is amazing, wd40 crc etc only pay lip service to actually penetrating frozen threads. If you give the problem thread a couple of applications over a 24 hour period and it's still not happening you may as well go ahead and break it cause it ain't gonna budge. Unless you have an oxy set and can provide some very localised heating........

REgards Russell

[Sleepy]

On another topic, My IIa has single combined front indicator/parker lights in each guard. Could they be Series 1 guards?
refer to:


G'day Mark,

Combined Blinker/Parkers were used in the S2 also - especially in North America. You don't see them often in AUS but I have seen other similar.
The light is, I believe, a Lucas L489 (or perhaps L488?) as fitted to the later Series 1 also. It has a different bulb arrangement for the dual useage.

You will see many fixtures in the Late Series 1 are also on early S2.
I have heard it said that there is more in common with the late S1 and early S2 than between the start and end of the S2 to S2a

Cheers

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Russell, Paul and other regular readers,
Thanks for the tip Russell, I'm using CRC stuff, but something with more kick would be of value.

Paul, thats all well and good, but...mines a 2a! Hmm maybe its had a horrible accident at some point in its life and an innocent II or I was sacrificed for the greater good of its future owner aka me. Thanks for the part number!


Well, today I started to take out the brake master cylinder, its one of this sort:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1270.jpg
Which is as far as I got, much easier with the bonnet off!

Instead of progressing on the brakes, I pulled the radiator out. Thoughts on the condition? I'm thinking a recore is in order... Is it appropriate for an early 2a? Andrew thought it might not be original equipment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1271.jpg
above is from the front, below is looking from the rear:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1272.jpg

There was a fair bit of water and coolant still in it, and the water was pretty clean when I was flushing it.

Some filthy person used gasket goop to seal the water pump on, so with all bolts out, it remains firmly stuck.

Wanted: One reco or NOS water pump to replace this one:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1296.jpg
and a brake master cylinder, reco or NOS.
Thats all for today,
Cheers,
Mark

[d@rk51d3]

Got them new on E-bay, myself.

Brand new heavy duty water pumps are $75 - bargain, especially when you can pay $65 for a recon kit, and have to put it all together yourself. :eek:

About the same for a new master cylinder.

It doesn't pay to scrooge on some items.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Got them new on E-bay, myself.

Brand new heavy duty water pumps are $75 - bargain, especially when you can pay $65 for a recon kit, and have to put it all together yourself. :eek:

About the same for a new master cylinder.

It doesn't pay to scrooge on some items.

G'day Darkside, cheers for the tip. I have to be selective on ebay, no credit card and no desire for a paypal account. Plenty of work arounds for that though.




The door vents on my beastie had me intrigued, Andrew/Shonky worked out they are LR OE tropical roof vents. Here is a pic of the same vents on a battered and bruised legend (found on flickr)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1274.jpg

Cheers,
Mark

[JDNSW]

G'day Russell, Paul and other regular readers,
Thanks for the tip Russell, I'm using CRC stuff, but something with more kick would be of value.

Paul, thats all well and good, but...mines a 2a! Hmm maybe its had a horrible accident at some point in its life and an innocent II or I was sacrificed for the greater good of its future owner aka me. Thanks for the part number!


Well, today I started to take out the brake master cylinder, its one of this sort:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1270.jpg
Which is as far as I got, much easier with the bonnet off!

Instead of progressing on the brakes, I pulled the radiator out. Thoughts on the condition? I'm thinking a recore is in order... Is it appropriate for an early 2a? Andrew thought it might not be original equipment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1271.jpg
above is from the front, below is looking from the rear:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/04/1272.jpg
......

Thats all for today,
Cheers,
Mark
Nope. That is a Series 3 radiator. (They are interchangeable).

John

[Shonky]

Been a busy boy Mark? :)

Yep - I thought that was a Series III radiator, but wasn't 100%. Thanks John. ;)

Series I guards won't fit a II/IIA. The series I guards have a shallower 'hip' because it doesn't extend out past the slab sides. I am pretty sure they are also narrower.

Water pumps are either 8 or 9 bolt. As Darky said, eBay has good ones cheap. Make sure you get a 9 bolt one or it won't fit. :angel: I did the one on my Falcon this weekend, and reminded myself why I like working on Landies... was a pig of a job and there is NO room in that engine bay. :( Also, you can't really avoid gasket goo on a water pump. It won't seal properly without it. You can be a bit rough with it - if all the bolts are clear then you should be able to yank it off.

LOVE that pic of the 107" S/W... :angel: That's magnificent! :D

[Sleepy]

Yes I'd have to agree with Shonky, the picture of 107 SW is a gem.

I know yours is a 2A but it is an early one. But Shonky's right, the S1 wings are different.

I am starting to wonder about your 88"...Flashing Side lights and tropical vents - perhaps it is imported from somewhere else? (Africa? NZ? Asia?) Does it have a plaque indicating Pressed Metal Corp. or similar indicating it was built here?

Only guessing?:angel:

She sure does look good though!:D

[isuzutoo-eh]

Yes I'd have to agree with Shonky, the picture of 107 SW is a gem.

I know yours is a 2A but it is an early one. But Shonky's right, the S1 wings are different.

I am starting to wonder about your 88"...Flashing Side lights and tropical vents - perhaps it is imported from somewhere else? (Africa? NZ? Asia?) Does it have a plaque indicating Pressed Metal Corp. or similar indicating it was built here?

Only guessing?:angel:

She sure does look good though!:D


G'day Sleepy,
Yeah, it has the little PMC plaque, numbers are 88 60 35.

-Mark
PS Your sig piccie makes me laugh but don't tell Shonky or he won't help me :p

[Shonky]

Damn right I wont! And give me back my guerney! :p


I was thinking the same Paul, but remembered seeeing the PMC tags...

'tis strange. :angel:

[isuzutoo-eh]

my ragtop has a broad arrow on it :D

[digger]

my ragtop has a broad arrow on it :D

Mark,

check thread in REMLR called "SWB CANOPY"

it has photos of a NOS army canopy that shows all the markings (1964 tarp)
including broad arrows...


watching with interest!
keep up the good work!
digger

[isuzutoo-eh]

Mark,

check thread in REMLR called "SWB CANOPY"

it has photos of a NOS army canopy that shows all the markings (1964 tarp)
including broad arrows...


watching with interest!
keep up the good work!
digger

G'day Digger,
I couldn't find the thread you referred to, i'm not part of remlr so if its in the private remlr area that'd be why.
It is definately ex Aus Army, with Mulder's and the broad arrow stamp and it looks exactly like the 88" GS ones in pics on the REMLR site.
The canopy has one L shaped tear which has been patched, and a few small holes, size of a shirt button hole. Thoroughly usable.
Just sent an email to the previous previous owner, hopefully he still has the hood bows, and i'm missing the B pillars, not sure what else.



On another topic, I have a brown elephant hide seat. Ebay pics made it look black and the price was good. Anyone need a brown seat? By no means is it in perfect condition but I hear these seats aren't easy to come by.


No more work on the Landie till after Easter :(
Cheers,
Mark

[d@rk51d3]

Hey Mark!


Great to see a change in avatars. :p:p ;)

[Sleepy]

Yeah that face was giving me nightmares.
Now, if only you pointed it in the right direction!:Thump::bangin:
Obviously the PMC tags make it an aussie LR. :BigThumb:

[digger]

G'day Digger,
I couldn't find the thread you referred to, i'm not part of remlr so if its in the private remlr area that'd be why.

nope, try this

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-technical/61575-swb-canopy.html?highlight=swb+canopy

its just detail photos of bits of swb canopy --incl markings..

cheers...

and yeah, that avatar had me worried too...I was waiting for it to change to batman or something!!


digger!

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day all,
Something wrong with my make-up? :p
(yeah, the genetic make-up says my sarcastically ironic mother)


Thanks Digger, dunno how I couldn't find your thread. Yours is the same type canopy as I have, though I'll have to get it out again to see if it is exactly the same. I don't recall it having so many markings, just the Mulder branding and one broad arrow. Good job with recording yours's markings/features for reference too!

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day all,
Today I bought a new water pump from Gary CLR, he advertises a lot on ebay.
Before I install it, should I flush the system with anything non watery?
There is a bit of rust on the block's face of the pump area, and above the thermostat too. I figure a good wash through with water will remove any flaky rust (I let it dry out :(), but how about a chemical flush? Drano, washing soda or similar?
Also need to paint the new water pump with some engine enamel.

Cheers,
Mark
PS Thanks Dave for the tips on sealing the timing cavity. Bought a drill press today in case I need to fabricate a newy.

[procrastination inc]

Drano, washing soda or similar

be really careful using strong alkaline solutions on aluminium. won't hurt iron based metals but will stuff aluminium quickly

[isuzutoo-eh]

Today was a big spending day for me. A trip to GaryCLR damaged my bank balance!
I bought a brand spanking S3 radiator (Britmart), which matches the one I have removed. Also a brake master cylinder and 74 degree thermostat. Not sure if the thermo is the right one for the job, should have done my research, as I think my housing doesn't suit the thermo I bought.

In less expensive news, I spent an hour trying to get the blasted cover off to replace the fuel filler, think I need to behead that one last rusty screw. Which would be fine except my Dremel had a seizure and my minicraft (UK version of Dremel) has worn out its brushes.

I'm a little concerned about the amount of bubbly rust in the water galleries, I haven't flushed them with anything other than water yet. Not entirely sure if I should try and remove the rust with the afforementioned drano/caustic solutions, or phosphoric acid-which is the base of supercheap auto's Septone rust converter.

looking for:
door frames/complete door bottoms
door locks
side mirror or two
5 matching roadworthy tyres
timing cover (still a plastic ring-in)


Soon i'll need some welding done, I can either teach myself, after buying gas for my Dad's MIG, or get someone else to do a better job.

Anyone want to earn some beer money patching a rear crossmember?

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day all,
After weeks of inaction due to uni, i'm back to spannerwork :D
Today, Andrew (shonky) came over and we put the new waterpump and radiator in. When I bought the vehicle, it didn't have a thermostat fitted but there was one in the 'bits box', so I bought a new one.
They are very different!
To the left is the old, shiny is new.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1254.jpg
and the housing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/862.jpg

Anyone know where the 'slimline' thermostat comes from? its back in the vehicle now as the other clearly wouldn't fit. It has 28 and 62 marked on it?


Also pulled out my (ex army) canopy, its been cut down to not have a cab roof section, its been converted to work with the truck cab in place :)

[peterg1001]

I bought a new one (exactly the same as your old one) from Land Vehicle Spares at Silverdale about 2 months ago, for $16.50.

The annoying thing is that I just went downstairs to check what it looked like and I can't find it. I've got so much stuff stashed away ready to be bolted back on that I'm starting to lose track of it. I think my next job might be to sort out everything I've got - I just noticed I've doubled up on axle u-bolt nuts, it's definitely time to get a grip on the inventory.

Peter

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day all,
Anyone else got a blinker/indicator like this?

my2a :: BlinkerBuzzer.flv video by Burra2a - Photobucket

Meerp meerp meerp!

Think thats going to drive me crazy :P

In other news, Dirty Mary has belched filthy brown exhaust all over my neighbour's front yard, but after 20 minutes of running on and off idle, cleared right up and she runs beautifully :)

Cheers,
Mark

[JDNSW]

No, and that is not the blinker listed in the optional equipment book either - but then a lot of early 2as came without blinkers - they were not required even on new vehicles until about the mid sixties, and it was probably fitted some time in the sixties. It could of course be a replacement, but it is typical of the ones sold for retrofitting to older vehicles in the sixties.

John

[Sleepy]

My old S2 had one of these:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/240.jpg

It was pretty cool and the green bit on the end of the stalk is translucent with internal flasher. I think these FOXTON blinkers were a common "option" but other versions around too.

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day John, Paul.
Last night at the LROCS meeting i saw a series 1 with a foxton stalk similar to mine but with a different end knob, different again to Pauls. That green light-up knob is awesome!
Paul, did yours make the meerp meerp? The sound unit is behind the flashing dash light.

I absolutely adore these little character-added features, the blinker is the best so far :D

[Sleepy]

Yes I liked it too :cool:- couldn't bring myself to separate it from the series 2 when I sold it - would have looked good on Olute. No "Berrp" just the click/tic from the flasher can.

[isuzutoo-eh]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/17.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/505.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/06/18.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/504.jpg

Evidence of previous repairs :(

Then again, not bad for a 46 year old vehicle I suppose

[Shonky]

Erk. :(

Oh well - Once done properly it won't matter. :)

Any filler on the rest of the chassis? I haven't noticed any but I didn't spot that either!

[Aaron IIA]

When I bought the vehicle, it didn't have a thermostat fitted but there was one in the 'bits box', so I bought a new one.
They are very different!
To the left is the old, shiny is new.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/1254.jpg


Anyone know where the 'slimline' thermostat comes from? its back in the vehicle now as the other clearly wouldn't fit. It has 28 and 62 marked on it?


The new thermostat on the right is the correct unit. The thermostat on the left does not have a skirt to close off the short circuit once temperature has been reached. This will result in not all of the water going through the radiator.

Aaron.

[isuzutoo-eh]

The new thermostat on the right is the correct unit. The thermostat on the left does not have a skirt to close off the short circuit once temperature has been reached. This will result in not all of the water going through the radiator.

Aaron.

G'day Aaron,
Thanks for sharing your observation and knowledge.
Is the skirt the shiny brass exterior part that the old one obviously does not have, or a less obvious part? If guess 1 is correct, the new thermostat definately doesn't fit the housing, but there is a slight, close tolerance depression for the flange of the old thermo in the housing that means there is no way the water can go anywhere but through the thermo or to the radiator. The old thermostat is definately captive in the housing, with no way the coolant can leak past if the thermostat is closed.
Hope that makes sense,
Mark

[Aaron IIA]

From the orientation in the photograph, there are two skirts visible. The larger diameter outside skirt sits in the slight depression that you speak of, while also going up inside the top cover. The top cover also serves as the mount for the hose which goes out to the top of the radiator. The smaller diameter inside skirt sits inside the lower mount. This smaller diameter skirt descends further into the lower mount when the operating temperature is reached, to block off the water passage to the short hose which short circuits the water back the the water pump, by-passing the radiator. Without this proper thermostat, there is no restriction to force the water to travel throught the radiator, instead of simply going directly back to the water pump.

Aaron.

[isuzutoo-eh]

I see what you mean.
However the housing is too small in diameter for the outer skirt to fit into it all all, even the depressed area. It sits high and dry against the mating surface of the housing. Andrew (Shonky) and I tried the new thermostat a couple of times, even tried it upside down, trying to make it seat, but the two housing halves could not come together, the new thermostat is too large in diameter for the housing. The old one sat in position perfectly :-)
Every Land Rover is unique :)

[Shonky]

I forgot to email you those measurements... sorry! :(

I am at work now and will undoubtedly forget by the time I get home. ;)

Drop in this weekend and you can pull the one off Gus and see if it is the same. Bring your thermo and housing.

[isuzutoo-eh]

All good Andrew I forgot too. Think i'd like to leave the cooling system intact for the time being, driving backwards and forwards on the front yard is too much fun. A potentially weepy thermostat shouldn't void roadworthy ;) Cheers anyway.

Brake pedal/master etc is out at the moment waiting for paint then I can have the dubious joy of wrestling it all back in.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hmmm long time no update, but I have done a little bit.
On the weekend, I sold my motorbike so I can throw more money at Dirty Mary. I've spent most of it already-I picked these up today:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/9.jpg

They are a bit larger in diameter :mellow: :
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1721.jpg

Also gained a variety of parts I needed. But always need more.

Currently looking for door bottoms, so please don't bid on the set on ebay located at Silverwater ending this time tomorrow :o:D

Brakes...consistently give me the ...poops... my reservoir leaks, so i'll have to pull it out AGAIN. Still haven't bled them because of this.
Patching of rear crossmember is sorta-sorted, i'll be having a local garage weld it I think.
A bunch of weeps have started since i've been driving it regularly backwards and forwards across the lawn;) including both rear hubs and the front crank seal.

30th of August is All British Day, 5 minutes down the road from me, will I have her ready in time?
-Mark

[Shonky]

30th of August is All British Day, 5 minutes down the road from me, will I have her ready in time?
-Mark

No. It's obviously a lost cause. :(

You may as well spend your time helping me get Gus on the road instead. :D

How'd you go with your tyre removal saga?

[isuzutoo-eh]

BLOODY TYRE! Stinjy Mark!
I struggled over three or four days to get that damn tyre off the rim. I even started hacksawing the bead. I really didn't want to pay to do something that I should have been able to do myself.
In the end after hurting my toe and threatening to bash the rim in with the sledgie I gave up and took it to the pros. 5 minutes later I had my rim back and tyre disposed of. And they didn't charge me a cent :D

But! The tyre bloke commented that he could see why I didn't get very far taking it off, damn ancient tyre.
Good service like that means they get my business in balancing my tyres :) (Maxxis dealer, Victoria Rd, between Rydalmere and Parra)

[matpoli]

Hey mate I love those tyres, are they the standard 7.5 x 16's, if so what are they called, where did you get them and how much please?

I want to buy some rims and get a set just like that for mud for my landy.

And after reading this post I think I have a name for mine, "Beatrice", it was my nannas name and she ws a great lady.

I am almost envious of you and all the work you have to do, you are really creating your beast from the ground up, I got mine as you see it.

Keep up the good work mate and I am excited with your progress.

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day mate,
The tyres were $120 each delivered to Sydney from Cooma on pallets. They are 7.5x16 Goodyear Hi-Milers Xtra Grip, as currently used on the Army Land Rovers. These were bought second hand, but in virtually unused condition. Rhoden is another brand of virtually identical tyres.
Here is the link to the ebay seller 4 TYRES 750X16 GOODYEAR L/ROVER TOYOTA 100% ARMYSURPLUS - eBay Tyres, Wheels, Tyres, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 26-Jul-09 20:15:00 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130320071254&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)
but i'm afraid Shonky and I bought all his as-new stock, the seller (Mick) had some tyres with 80% or more tread left when I ordered these, give him a call his number is on the ebay ad.

I wouldn't be too envious of my efforts here, most of the time i'm going in circles not really knowing what im doing but hoping to get there in the end.

I'll bet your Nanna would be proud to know your lovely shortie is named after her :)
Cheers,
Mark

[peterg1001]

I'll endorse Mark's comments about Mick in Cooma, I bought a set off him and am more than satisfied. See www.greenacre.biz (http://www.greenacre.biz) for details of my tyre saga.

Peter

[RobHay]

G'day all,
I picked up my first Landy of my own yesterday.

So far, the radiator imitates a steam train, the brakes don't work, rear axles seals leak like crazy, the ignition key is almost worn out, door tops are rusty but replacements provided and there is a distinct need for some paint. Slightest bit of rust in the rear crossmember which could be cut and patched if I knew how to weld, the rest is pretty clean.


:D :D :D
Mark


So what you trying to say in a roundabout way is that she is in pretty good nick..:D:p

[matpoli]

Sweet and thx for the help both longingforalandy and peterg1001 and let me apologise for changing the topic to me.

Wish I was over east though, doesn't appear to be anything in WA in the way of tyres or army auctions.

Sent an e-mail to a land rover wrecker and he said they had no wheels at all ;)

[peterg1001]

Search for seller mandt42 on ebay, Mick hasn't got anything there at the moment but he puts tyres on regularly. You can try emailing him at michaeltinnock@dodo.com.au, but he isn't real good with emails.

Peter

[isuzutoo-eh]

Little update:
Today I visited Gordon/GS1967 and bought some servicable door bottoms from him. Thanks mate, I enjoyed looking at your collection of old automotive technology, I never realised timber drawbars existed till I saw yours! :p
I bought a crank handle on Wednesday, and haven't used the starter motor since. Hand cranking is almost fun! Guess the novelty will wear off quickly:)
Gordon gave me a second crank handle too as his Landy has a Holden engine. I painted the first handle in shiny black, so now I have a show handle and a useful handle :p

This arvo my Dad helped me bleed the brakes, so now I have a good, firm pedal :D The bled fluid was filthy, probably should have been flushed completely as there was a little grit from one slave. Too bad, it's done now.
The clutch was an easy one-man job, so I knocked that over too.

Such beautiful weather, it's a shame not to be out in it working on Landies, sadly tomorrow I have uni work to do :(


The list of to-do's gets ever shorter as my wallet gets ever emptier ;)

Cheers,
Mark

[MickS]

I bought a crank handle on Wednesday, and haven't used the starter motor since. Hand cranking is almost fun! Guess the novelty will wear off quickly:)
Gordon gave me a second crank handle too as his Landy has a Holden engine. I painted the first handle in shiny black, so now I have a show handle and a useful handle :p

Cheers,
Mark

Mark, where did you buy the crank handle??...I'm after one as well....

[isuzutoo-eh]

Well Mick, I now have two of them, if you would like one I shall give it to you at the All British Day...would you like me to clean it up and spray it with engine enamel black? The paint scuffs off in use unfortunately but it looks schmick!
Or if you feel like a sedate drive in the country, you can try Land Vehicle Spares.

[Shonky]

...Goodyear Hi-Milers Xtra Grip, as currently used on the Army Land Rovers...

Almost. They are currently used on LRPVs and SRVs. The majority of the fleet run Olympic Steeltreks. ;)

Good to hear things are moving along! :D

[isuzutoo-eh]

And fun can involve ramps :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/511.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/512.jpg

Like my bling wheels? Michelin XZAs on 110 rims for daily driving, bought via the markets from a forum member. AULRO = awesomeness.

Whilst having fun, the hand brake broke! Well, a pin in the linkage fell out, the fork being bent and split pin missing so it hadn't been assembled properly anyway, but correctly reassembled now :)

Those pics show my new/old door bottoms, care of yet another forum member (GS1967).

Current serious efforts is towards sorting out the wiring for the rear lights, two colours of wire, green and black. For everything. :no2: Grrrr.
-Mark

[MickS]

Well Mick, I now have two of them, if you would like one I shall give it to you at the All British Day...would you like me to clean it up and spray it with engine enamel black? The paint scuffs off in use unfortunately but it looks schmick!
Or if you feel like a sedate drive in the country, you can try Land Vehicle Spares.

Woohoo...thanks mate...:BigThumb:

I shall be heading in a north westerly direction in the AM tomorrow - with scones and tea - to catch up with old Binky and your good self at the All British Day - pip pip ay what?

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day fellow series deviates.
I really wanted to have Dirty Mary registered in time for the expo.
The rust issues are more or less taken care of, the mechanical side of things is nearly* spot on, have good tyres and rims, electrics are 95% sorted, paint cleaned up a bit, blue slip booked in for Tuesday...

*When i say nearly...

My engine is missing :o
When I bought the vehicle it was running sweetly, blew a little soot due to lack of use, and soon cleaned up. Now, its rough, noisier, develops less power than a wind up toy, vibrates waay too much, and makes me unhappy. My neighbour thinks it sounds better:no2:. I think it has overheated when I had to move it whilst the water pump/radiator etc wasn't connected. It was only running a few minutes :( I sure learnt that lesson :mad:
After due deliberation, it seems cylinders 2 and 3 aren't firing or not firing very well. I think my head is warped, just like my Landy one. Advice gladly accepted.
I'll get my Grandpa to compression test it...but not this week.


The expo doesn't seem achievable now. Not happy.

I didn't want to spend money on the engine since I have a 2.25D lined up but need the Landy to collect it.

On the plus side, I turn 25 next month so may hold off registering it till the insurance price drops because under 25s with classic cars do not exist to most insurance companies...and I can get a few other niceties out of the way before rego too, like seatbelts and a bullbar.
-Mark

[Sleepy]

I have a 2.25D lined up but need the Landy to collect it.


Bad luck Mark - maybe next year.

You'll be happy with the diesel, all you need is someone close by with a working Land Rover to help you pick it up - Maybe Shonky knows someone ;)

[Shonky]

Warped head? :o

I would be very surprised if the few minutes you ran it would have done that. The engine wasn't even warm! From what I gather, 2.25s tend to crack heads rather than warp them... not that this is any better. :(

Are you getting good spark at all four plugs?

A compression test would be good, but it could just as well be a blown head gasket. I hope. :(

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Paul, Andrew,
Thanks for your kind words Paul.

Strong spark on all four plugs. The plugs have a bit of dry soot, which according to the book means its running rich, and idling without a proper run for too long is sure to add to it. I cleaned the gaps and made sure they were all consistent (don't have feeler gauges yet)

When idling, if I pull the leads one cylinder at a time, the idle worsens dramatically on cylinders 1 and 4, while with 2 and 3 there isn't a perceptible difference.

I don't want to know about cracked heads, sounds nasty, I'm ruling that one out with compassionate reasons. If I end up getting the head planed then the workshop wold tell me that I presume?

It could well be a holy head gasket but if I think the worst then it can only get better lol
I just don't have the time to look into it this week.
Steepest learning curve i've ever been on!
-Mark

[isuzutoo-eh]

While chasing insurance I have been asked to email a photo to an insurance co so they can work out what a 1963 Land Rover series 2a is, because its not in their register. This is ridiculous. The insurance company calling themselves Australian 4WD Insurance (DGA Insurance), and they don't have old Land Rovers.
Not to mention they won't insure me till i'm 25.
Lumley Special Vehicles won't insure because I can't keep it garaged and actually wish to drive it.
Shannons won't insure under 25s.
Just Car don't recognise 1963 Land Rovers.
QBE don't do old cars.
Commbank doesn't have Land Rovers pre 72
Allianz ditto
Ecar, nothing pre 1984 Land Rover
NRMA Classic car division requires garaged storage.
NRMA comprehensive actually will cover me, woah, incredulous.

I'm starting to enjoy chasing insurance quotes, baffling the poor telephonic experts.

[lane]

Not sure why you want insurance, but if it's to cover you for hitting somebody's Mercedes you can get third-party insurance for any age vehicle for around $100 per year. But you need to ask.

[Shonky]

Sounds exactly like my insurance hunting of late. :eek:

I was told by one insure that they would insure a 1965 Land Rover 109" UTE, but NO OTHER variant. Why? It wasn't on their system you see, and if it isn't on the computer it must be modified.

:mad:

Another told me they were only a low risk insurer and wouldn't insure such a vehicle. They couldn't answer when I pointed out that Ambrose is a restored show car that gets driven once a month and cared for like a child. :confused:

NRMA were the only ones to even consider me also. They would only go up to $3,000 though. :(

Go halves with you on getting a broker?


PS - Peters Head Shed in Foundry Rd Seven Hills will fix you up. They will pressure test it first and let you know whats what.

[Shonky]

Not sure why you want insurance, but if it's to cover you for hitting somebody's Mercedes you can get third-party insurance for any age vehicle for around $100 per year. But you need to ask.

Maybe it's different in WA, but you certainly can't do that over here. I have Third Party Property / Fire and Theft insurance on Ambrose, and that is $600 p/a. This premium is calculated on the age of the driver and the type of vehicle, much like Comprehensive.

Most insurers wont insure me at all, either because I'm too young or the truck is too old. (Mark is in the same boat)

As you would know, Compulsory Third Party insurance (green slip) only covers injury to the driver of the other car and not the car itself. That is a few hundred on its own. :(

[d@rk51d3]

EDITED

- I really gotta learn to read properly. :(

[Sleepy]

I had no problem getting Shannon's to insure Olute. Not too expensive.

I haven't had to make a claim yet though! ;)

I am an old fart too. (I guess that makes me a lower risk coz I'm not out doing circle work and dragging. - As you do in an old landrover!)

[series3]

G'day mark. My advice is that 'the proof is in the pudding'. You won't know until you open her up and have a bit of a captain cook.

spend some time and take the head off; that way, you can look at the condition of the bore, pistons and gasket. It's not hard to do, but you will need to torque it back down properly afterwards. It's also interesting to glean a bit of history from the internals.

I have probably almost definately missed something important here in terms of head removal, my experience in all of this is limited. It isn't as major as it sounds though.

[subasurf]

I had no problem getting Shannon's to insure Olute. Not too expensive.


No one will insure my Series III :( My subaru and health cover is with HBF but they wont do it because it's too old, Shannon's wont do it because I'm too young, RAC couldn't find any old Land Rovers on their database of cars that exist, Real insurance cracked a sad because it has a Holden engine, Alianz say I'm too young also...list goes on. All I asked for was third party...for the inevitably glorious day when my beast plows through some hairdresser in a MX-5 or some ricerboy in an Excel.

[lane]

Shonks, yes, I was talking about third-party property, not the injury insurance you get with your registration fees.

Last time I bought it was a few years ago but it was only a hundred bucks per year. Absolute bargain, I thought. But I am over forty, so I don't know what attitude they have to younger people. :)

Here's a link to one insurer ($151.25 per year): Third Party Car Insurance - Third Party Property Damage (http://www.allianz.com.au/allianz/CIPR+Third+Party+Property+Damage.html)

I'm with Allianz. Best insurer I've ever seen. I've just called and bought this over the phone for my Series III.

[Shonky]

I can't even get a quote from them lane - try and do an quote online and see what happens when you type in 1965 and try to select Land Rover! ;)

Quite apart from that, Allianz wont insure me for two reasons:

a) car is too old
b) driver is too young

:(

[MickS]

Mark, try GIO...I have Basil comprehensively insured with them...the guy didn't blink when I told him it was a 1959 series Land Rover.

Cheap to insure (but I suppose it helps that I'm old enough to NOT remember the 60's :D ).

[MickS]

I can't even get a quote from them lane - try and do an quote online and see what happens when you type in 1965 and try to select Land Rover! ;)

Quite apart from that, Allianz wont insure me for two reasons:

a) car is too old
b) driver is too young

:(

It is my mission in life to steer anyone I can away from a certain insurance company...cough cough :angel:

[isuzutoo-eh]

From:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/504.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/505.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/506.jpg

via some cutting, grinding and a visit by a proficient welding expert, I now have:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/507.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/508.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/509.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/510.jpg
and i'm thoroughly happy with the rear crossmember now.
There was also a few small holes in the door pillars, which have been plugged too:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/511.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/512.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/09/513.jpg

Today I planned to do a lot of grinding and rustproofing, but I think i'll leave it because of the dust.

So thats all the welding done, the fellow that welded it, Ben, did a remarkable job, explained how to make it easier if ever it has to be done again, and made sure there was no skimping involved, and it was done while a mutual friend (who thrashed Landies on the Snowy Mountains Scheme) was paying Ben's wage :D

Ben is also pretty good with engines and reckons all cylinders have compresion from when we hand cranked it, so recommended I look closer at sparks and leads and maybe the dizzy as well.

As for insurance, I'm going to wait till i'm 25 to get Dirty Mary registered so it'll be cheaper and I'll have a lot more brands to choose from. Means I miss out on the Stockton run in October :( but there'll be more and some time to get recovery points fitted and some road driving experience up first.

Lane, if there was $100 third party cover available in NSW, that would be awesome, but no such luck its $650 odd for both Shonky and I no matter who the CTP policy is held with.

My Corolla has been CTP'd with allianz and nrma and whilst I haven't had to test either, I think allianz was slightly easier to deal with, and sent me little stickers used to prevent windscreen cracks spreading. Its about the only thing I gained from either policy. I'll be shopping carefully when im ready to pay my money though.
Cheers,
Mark

[Shonky]

Don't Mention GIO Mick. Us younguns may have to cry. :(

Top stuff Mark! :D Chassis will look great after a grind and a coat of GMH black! :D

Why not just chuck it on Third Party Property for now? (Thats all Ambrose has! :o)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Don't Mention GIO Mick. Us younguns may have to cry. :(

Top stuff Mark! :D Chassis will look great after a grind and a coat of GMH black! :D

Why not just chuck it on Third Party Property for now? (Thats all Ambrose has! :o)

yeah, GIO was the answer but, well, they suck now. The cake was a lie.

If I chuck it on third party now then i'll be rushing to get it ready for Sunday, which could well be achievable...but would put my bank balance in the red and I have some expensive weeks coming up.

[Shonky]

I meant rather than waiting till you hit 25, but I suppose that depends when that is! When is your birthday? (goes to check FB ) :angel:

[isuzutoo-eh]

20 days time... :D

[Shonky]

oh... pfft! Disregard last! :angel:

[Dmmos]

Mark - Sorry to hear about your rego troubles (had those :s), especially before the show...

Sorry to hear about all your insurance troubles too (DEFINITELY have those - paying $2208 comprehensive + $650,000,000 Green Slip AAGAGHAHAGADSD&*()). What can I say? I like to burn the most fulliest slick donuts in my Suzuki Swift :s

Anyway, just dropped in too say (ignoring the rest :p) everything looks great, and I am - as always - remarkably jealous.

Btw. Congrats on the name - it's ace.

[lane]

It is my mission in life to steer anyone I can away from a certain insurance company...cough cough :angel:

Allianz is excellent, in my experience. When I bought my Peugeot 306GTi6 (167bhp naturally aspirated, just had to mention that...) I had a bloke back into me in the first couple of weeks, and then another bloke ran into the back of me in a multi-car pile-up (which I thought I had survived by stopping without hitting the car in front...) a couple of weeks after that. Allianz paid out without the slightest hitch on both claims on a brand new insurance policy.

Shonky, insurance on cars which are under a very significant value ($10k at least - probably $20k) is simply a bad investment. Third party property damage is cheap and a good investment, I think. But paying $1000 per year for something which if you ever claim will only amount to a few thousand is very bad business (unless you're a very bad driver, but then that won't work in the long run because they won't insure you...).

Insurance is a racket. Like any racket you need to be really prudent about how you interact with it.

Cheers,
Lane.

[Shonky]

Shonky, insurance on cars which are under a very significant value ($10k at least - probably $20k) is simply a bad investment. Third party property damage is cheap and a good investment, I think. But paying $1000 per year for something which if you ever claim will only amount to a few thousand is very bad business (unless you're a very bad driver, but then that won't work in the long run because they won't insure you...)

Unless:

a) Your quote for Comprehensive insurance is actually CHEAPER than TPP. If you can get it, why not? (Gus - with GIO before they decided to axe their historic program)

or

b) You want to put your vehicle on Historic Rego. It is a requirement of historic rego in NSW that the vehicle be comp insured. :( (Ambrose will be going onto historic when his rego is up in March)

;)

[chazza]

Unless:


b) You want to put your vehicle on Historic Rego. It is a requirement of historic rego in NSW that the vehicle be comp insured. :( (Ambrose will be going onto historic when his rego is up in March)

;)

What a stupid rule!

Time to move back to WA I think Shonks :D

Cheers Charlie

[Shonky]

Haha! :angel:

[lane]

Ah, I see. Well, Chazza's got the right idea, then. :)

[Larry]

Unless:

a) Your quote for Comprehensive insurance is actually CHEAPER than TPP. If you can get it, why not? (Gus - with GIO before they decided to axe their historic program)

or

b) You want to put your vehicle on Historic Rego. It is a requirement of historic rego in NSW that the vehicle be comp insured. :( (Ambrose will be going onto historic when his rego is up in March)

;)

When you are on Historic Rego, the comprehensive policy is VERY cheap.
I renewed the policy (GIO) on my Series 1 in June , & it cost $56.25 :o because the risk is less as the vehicle is driven less frequenty.

The rego (including CTP) was $53.00, so unless it's your only form of transport, Historic Rego is fantastic!:thumbsup:

Mark.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hello everyone,
Thanks for the words of advice and encouragement. I like to see all the chatter here, much better than talking to myself :D

Dirty Mary is to be my daily driver for a while, as well as weekend ruff truck (hardly a 'tuff' truck!) so historic rego is out of the equation.

Prior to this weekend I have ground smooth all the chassis repair welds and slopped some paint around, got everything in the dash panel working as far as I can tell and acquired a few bits and pieces such as a front recovery point, front hub and a truck cab fill panel (Much appreciated JDNSW!).
Apart from that, I'm working this long weekend and have a heap of model trains to build for people so nothing more to report on :(
-Mark

[isuzutoo-eh]

Looks like the head is going to come off afterall:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/402.jpg

Coolant in the oil under the rocker cover.

Now taking bets on whether its a holy gasket or a cracked noggin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/403.jpg
Any reason why 3 of the 4 plugs (2 shown) have been smashed to buggery while one is near pristine?

-Mark

[d@rk51d3]

Looks like it just needs new core plugs.

The head will still need to come off though.

[series3]

While chasing insurance...
Just Car don't recognise 1963 Land Rovers.

I just got off the phone to a lovely girl from Just Car and she was very accomodating to a 1971 series 2a. The online quote thing did not recognise the year/make/model combination, but I gave them a call and they were more than happy to fill in the blanks. I think this is because they do a lot of imports.

After letting her know the engine size, number of doors etc. she said that she could do it for $525, insuring the car for up to 3,000, and other property for up to 20 million (seriously).

Forgot to mention, it's also for an under 25

[Dmmos]

series3 - What excess would you be paying (if you don't mind me asking)?

[series3]

Silly me I can't actually remember. I can't remember it being huge but will see if i wrote it down at work tomo(today)

[chazza]

Any reason why 3 of the 4 plugs (2 shown) have been smashed to buggery while one is near pristine?

-Mark
It is probably someone's attempt to make sure the plug doesn't come loose but it is hard to see how doing this could be any use at all!

When you put the new ones in, use Loctite on the threads to make sure they stay water-tight,

Cheers Charlie

[series3]

series3 - What excess would you be paying (if you don't mind me asking)?

I was slightly startled when I double checked, the excess is 1,100 big ones. Is that a big amount? It's not far from the amount I told them I bought the car for..

[Shonky]

You are a male under 25 right?

$500 standard excess + $600 "tar everyone with the same brush" excess = $1,100. :(

Unfortunately, your excess is normal. :eek:

[Dmmos]

Yep, that's what I have atm. It's a pain (I've already paid it once :mad:).

That being said, it saved me 3k repairs on my car and 4k on the other...

[series3]

I've made enquiries at a few other places and nothing else has been under 600 for the annual fee, so I think Just Car may be getting my business when the time comes. Very friendly on the phone as well (no machines) which go a loooong way in my book.

That excess is absurd, they treat a young male like he drives down the Gaza Strip everyday waving a rocket launcher out the window shouting "Allah, Allah, Jihad!"

[isuzutoo-eh]

Dirty Mary had need of a hub replaced-all of the wheel studs had been welded in, and one had come out. The hole it came out of was severely flogged out.
Land Vehicle Spares came to the rescue with a replacement hub. Trouble is, the bearing cones were shot.
I don't have a press so fitting new cones was not going to be an easy job.
But in the end it was!
Since I am a dummy, here's my dummy's guide to cone replacement:

To get the old cones out, use a heavy drift and a hammer. Work your way around. A bit of penetrating spray might help if there is any corrosion present.

Now, put your new cones at the bottom and back of the freezer in a sealed freezer bag.
A few days later, after really cleaning up the hub so its smooth and spotless, put your new hub on, and light, your gas barbecue.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/877.jpg
Leave it for 20 minutes, you want it hot through. Wear thick leather gloves, welding gloves are good, when handling.
Whilst its warming up, grab your brass or other fairly-soft metal rod aka your drift, and a hammer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/878.jpg
When the hub is hot, bring your cones out, keeping them on ice in their bags.
Carefully, with your gloves on, bring your hub from the BBQ to your heat-proof work surface, such as the path next to your bbq :p
Get the first bearing cone out of its bag, making sure the cone is the RIGHT WAY AROUND! You won't get a second chance at this.
It should slip in easily, but use your drift and gloved fingers to ensure it is home against the rear flange.
Once the cone has warmed and expanded to be secure in the hub, gently flip the hub over and do the same for the other cone.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/879.jpg
Stand back and enjoy a beer or three while the hub cools!


On another note, anyone called the new virgin insurance mob to see if they cater for classic vehicles or are actually aware there are young people who aren't bad drivers?

Cheers,
Mark

[Shonky]

On another note, anyone called the new virgin insurance mob to see if they cater for classic vehicles or are actually aware there are young people who aren't bad drivers?

Yep. Not interested. :(

[numpty]

Not a bad way of putting in the bearing cones, but I have never had a problem doing them as is.

[isuzutoo-eh]

I didn't know there was an 'as is' way:confused:
:TakeABow:
meh, its done now.

[numpty]

:angel: As is.........cold, the way they are, without heat or cold.

But hey, it worked for you, and that's the important thing.;)

[isuzutoo-eh]

So, the cones are meant to just slip straight in without considerable persuasion? Because mine certainly didn't :(
As someone else has probably said, every Landy is different :p

[numpty]

:(No, they have to pressed in or tapped down with a drift. The point I was making was that they are not particularly difficult to do. I have used the same method on many of the cars I've owned.....Fiats, VW's etc.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Ah I get you now, I guess this way is a bit of overkill then. I hadn't done this before, and without a decent workshop and mentor I'm not really confident on a lot of this.
Cheers,
Mark

[isuzutoo-eh]

On Monday I dragged my Mother and a trailer almost to Tamworth, for this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1335.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1336.jpg

Whats that you ask? Why, a 2.25L Diesel engine of course!

Thanks Surly One for selling this motor to me, and helping load up and then loading more bits on top :D Good luck with your one and a half projects mate :cool:

Also thanks to Shonky's crane, I don't think your doorbell works because your missus and her bro seemed a little surprised when I 'broke' in :p
-Mark

EDIT: I don't love blacktown, its not my trailer, I am innocent I swear, please don't judge me by my sister's trailer's sticker!

[series3]

Nice one! when are you planning on dropping it in?

[Shonky]

I don't think your doorbell works because your missus and her bro seemed a little surprised when I 'broke' in :p


Haha! They didn't mention that... I did warn her that you were picking it up. Obviously wasn't listening. As usual. :p


EDIT: I don't love blacktown, its not my trailer, I am innocent I swear, please don't judge me by my sister's trailer's sticker!

Sure sure... :twisted:

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Series 3 and Andrew,
The engine needs a little tidying before I put it in, and since I work at the speed of continental drift...
First enginework day is this Sunday if anyone would like to lend a hand...
-Mark

[Shonky]

Gah... can't. Playing tankies...

Whats on the agenda?

[series3]

Im afraid I can't help you out mate, I'm out of town. Let me know another weekend and I should be able to give you a hand.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Agenda is to get it off the trailer, take off the head and have a look inside, take the sump off and ogle its insides from that angle, flush out the water galleries, and make a list of things I need to do and buy.

Here is the start of a list of stuff I want/need:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/marketplace-alerts/93697-wanted-series-stuff-bullbar-leaf-springs-other-stuff.html

[Shonky]

Would you like an engine stand? :)

Makes life a million billion trillion times easier. ;)

Just make sure you don't pull out the roatation lock pin by accident while it's still full of oil... :angel:

[isuzutoo-eh]

Mmm yes please on the engine stand, I ran out of credit so couldn't reply to your SMS Tuesday night...shoulda reminded me it was LROCS night! I could have brought along a...flywheel...or something for show and tell :p
Come on round this arvo or tomorrow arvo if you would like. I've gained a few toys since you've visited.

[Shonky]

LROCS Committee night. ;) Club meets are finished for the year.

[isuzutoo-eh]

On Sunday, my mate Will gave me a hand checking out the condition of the engine.
First up we flushed the water galleries as best we could, there was a lot of gunk built up, some reasonably sized rust chunks came out too. There is still muck in it but I'd estimate that 3/4 is out now. I'll tip the engine on its side and flush the rest out another day.
Once things dried a little, we dropped the sump, flipped the engine over and all seemed pretty good visually:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1037.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1038.jpg
The sump had a little oil in it, thankfully no water. Though it was black, the oil wasn't hiding any wasted metal. Everything inside had a healthy film of oil on it so there isn't any internal corrosion.
We tried to turn it over with the crank handle but it was either seized or the compression was too much for us!:p

So we made a start on the top end of things:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1039.jpg
The injector nozzles were clean, and the glow plugs appeared in good condition. I have to test both injectors and plugs yet, but at least they aren't hard to replace. Glad they aren't $5000 TD5 injectors!

The cylinder bores are all smooth and shiny. There is a little crud around the edges of the pistons.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1040.jpg
The pistons are all numbered, yet they look identical in the parts diagrams, are they?
I could turn the engine over really easily with the crank handle now, thankfully.:cool:
The gasket is in great condition, so will be kept as a spare.
Some of the water galleries were pretty crusty with rust and gunk, probably reducing the flow rate to about half to the head. More flushing required.

I now understand when people say how simple and easy to work on these engines are. Once we got stuck in to it, there was nothing daunting at all, just a matter of following the order in the book, not rushing it and sometimes getting a bigger lever for the torqued-up head bolts.

This engine has a double V pulley on the crank, just like military 2.25Ps, and the crank seal has the RAEME screw modification to make changing the seals easy. Little concessions to later be thankful of ;)

Did the diesel's have the 4 blade fan or the 8 blade that the military 2a's had/have? I have a couple of 4 bladers if anyone wants to swap for an 8?

I have reassembled the engine but not tightened anything down, so will have to get a gasket set and clean the insides properly before the weather finds it.
Is using metho and a lint-free rag okay for cleaning gunk from cylinders/pistons? Perhaps petrol or another high-flashpoint solvent? I don't want to take the pistons out as I don't have a piston ring compressing tool.
Any hints or tips most welcome :)

-Mark

[series3]

Looking good mark, gotta be happy with that so far! do you know what sort of kays the engine has done?

I think the numbers on the pistons are something to do with measuring and categorising the minor differences in size from factory; indicating the internals are probably all ridgey didge. (I think!)

[Shonky]

Did the diesel's have the 4 blade fan or the 8 blade that the military 2a's had/have? I have a couple of 4 bladers if anyone wants to swap for an 8?

Is using metho and a lint-free rag okay for cleaning gunk from cylinders/pistons? Perhaps petrol or another high-flashpoint solvent?


Looks good in there mate! :D

I'm still not sure which fan the Diesels had as standard. I think the 8 blader may have just been a heavy duty option, but I wouldn't be surprised if I have the wrong end of the stick altogether... :angel: I am interested in the true answer to that question also. :)

Yer - solvent and rag should be fine. Even if there is residual solvent it will burn up on the first stroke anyway.

[chazza]

With regard to the muck in the cooling system Mark, I found a magnet on a stick extremely useful for getting out all sorts of chunks big and small from my S1 block. Even so I am going to fit a hose filter to catch everything that I have missed so that the radiator doesn't get blocked,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Series3, Andrew, Charlie, anyone else listening...
Not sure on the km the engine already has. I suppose I should try and find out!
A magnet on a stick is such a smart idea. Whats left is pretty much sludge rather than chunks but I'll give it a shot anyway. Where would you put the filter, on the radiator top tube? I guess thats the only spot thats accessible and in the right part of the network.
Maybe a spare sediment bowl with a filter just after it could be the trick.
-Mark

[groucho]

Try some citric acid granuals food grade
avalable from wholesalers 5 to 10% mix
be safe to take the water pump off. make some blanking plates

got these pics off another forum seem to work ok..........






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1020.jpg

[groucho]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1019.jpg

[groucho]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1018.jpg

[groucho]

Probly leave in for a few days and wash out with the pressure washer




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/1017.jpg

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Groucho,
Thats quite a difference. Along similar lines to Molasses I think, but maybe a little more aggressive. I'm a little dubious about trying it on the engine block as cleaning it out of the galleries may not be so easy even with a pressure washer, and it continues to corrode the metal until its gone or denatured. I'm not as concerned about the surface corrosion in the engine block as the quantity of sludge/chunks that can move around and block galleries or the (new) radiator.
Cheers,
Mark

[groucho]

They say it don't remove any metal but it will probably disolve chunks.
The metal removed by rust is already done anyway. The more chunks you soften up the better to wash out. molasses dose the same job.
A lot of the sediment is not magnetic any way it's disolved dirt ect.

Do it once , do it right, piece of mind after..........Mark

[Shonky]

Gee that does a good job Grouch! :eek: If you are going to get the head acid dipped at the head shop anyway though it is a bit redundant. Good tip though - added to memory bank. ;)

Regarding the filter, I have heard of people using an old piece of stocking (the toe). You slip it into the end of a hose (making sure it goes with the flow) and then fold the cuff back over the hose. Attach and clamp. Basically acts as a sock filter and strains out any nastys before they reach your radiator. Haven't done it myself but will probably do so on Gus.

Just make sure it doesn't build up. :eek:

[isuzutoo-eh]

Groucho,
Fair point there. I've got some caustic and acidic cleaning liquids around so i'll read their bottles and see which is best suited, hopefully I may even have citric acid in some form.
Andrew, I wasn't going to get the head done, I reckon this engine is in good enough nick that simply reassembling with new gaskets etc and with a little bit of heavy maintenance will be enough for a good engine.

Received my RAVE CD from Inc today :D
-Mark

[groucho]

A couple of jars of that powdered orange drink will do the same job
You can emagine what it dose to kids stomaches its made of the same stuff
Don't go silly with the caustic. Bad stuff ............

[Shonky]

I was talking more about me and my heads. :p

I personally think it is always well worth a acid bath and pressure test for not much $, but I guess its up to everyones own budget. You can always pull it off again if somethings amiss. :)

Hope you didn't order a Rave CD - they are for plastic ones! SERIESIICD is the one you want, although LANDYCD looks similar.

[isuzutoo-eh]

'tsalright Andrew, I got the Series II and IIa disc and printed on the disc is a shorty with combined indicator/marker lights just like mine :D
better get back to work
-Mark

[Shonky]

Gewd. :)

[chazza]

A friend of mine used hydrochloric acid solution on his Model-T Fraud, which worked well; however; like the citric acid it needs neutralising with something such as lime, to make sure that it has stopped working.

I presume you have taken all of the core plugs out and attacked the inside with a screwdriver. Shonky's idea of the stocking is a good one but of course it needs to be cleaned regularly,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

Gooooood Evening gentle readers,
Through the help of some generous AULRO members, a little history has come to light.
The vehicle was delivered to the NSW Government Stores, Police. The petrol donk's numbers line up with the info in the Grenville Motors book, so that is original. It is listed as delivered in 'standard' form, ie full length soft top.
Hardtop Police Landies were usually supplied with wire mesh window grills, which I also have in my posession.;)
At least some of the soft top Series 2a's were used by the police stationed for the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme. Being delivered on the 30th of January 1963 means it fits in with several of the worksites in the SMHEC, such as Bella Vista, Eucumbene, Island Bend, Khancoban and Cabramurra, and of course base station Cooma.

So the vehicle has served with a government agency, and quite probably was used on the Snowy Mountains Scheme.:cool:

The vehicle is largely original and would relatively speaking be a piece of cake to keep it as such and backdate the few changes it has had, with a view to historic rego in its future.

But thats my dilemma! I want to replace my corolla asap with a Land Rover. I'm not allowed two resto vehicles or I get kicked out of home and i'm slow enough with just one resto anyway. I desperately want a vehicle I can take off road and not be too worried about terminating its historic value. Thats why I didn't buy an ex-Army Landy. But I am one of those people that can't knowingly destroy history, even if its not my own direct history.

I'm 25, still living at home but tick tock can't last forever here. I envisioned keeping the vehicle for a loong time, often as my only vehicle, I love driving so can't do that on historic plates and also not if I want to maintain its integrity.

I can't afford a disco or rangie, half decent Defenders are definately out of my price range and I'd really prefer to get a County like my father had which started me on this odyssey. Again, out of my current price range (V8s are out, don't like petrol vehicles). I'd say the corolla has maybe 6 months of safe life left...

I have a great 2.25l diesel engine almost ready to drop in the 2a. I've got a line on just about everything I need to make it a factory fitment level diesel 2a. Plus there's the roll cage in the backyard, winch, bullbar, truck cab, gnarly tyres and Defender rims that I've already acquired for it.


What to do, continue turning it into Grandpa's axe in the pursuit of off-road nirvana or put off the adventures for another year, do a proper resto job, whilst I try and afford another Rover product?

Conundrums!


Many thanks to Diana and Mick and their behind the scenes contacts whom I have virtually paraphrased for the information! (Any more info greatly appreciated too)
-Mark

[series3]

Interesting, it's great that you have found some of that out.

I suppose, what you are proposing to do is not completely terminal, ie hacking the chassis and firewall to bits to fit something ridiculous under the bonnet.

After some time of using and enjoying dirty mary in the configuration you desire, you always have to option to take it back to original when you see fit. You still have the original parts that could be replaced at a later date.

I'm guessing you're not planning to flog the youknowwhat out of it in the bush, either.

just my 2c

Sam

PS i'm driving through the hills district to kellyville today, keep an eye out!

[Shonky]

Why not have the best of both worlds? You can always put the Diesel engine in for now, and rebuild the original Petrol in your own time while you drive Mary around as a Diesel!

Using it off road shouldn't be a problem either - You simply have another thing to weigh up when challenging obstacles. Many Disco drivers are particular about their panel work aswell, and they still go off road! I certainly won't be flogging the crap out of Gus in the bush - just using him like a Land Rover. Mary has done this for 46 years so far, so I doubt a few more will hurt... ;)

Fix and fit the Diesel, Get it rego'd, and slowly renovate it as you drive. :)

Gives you time to find bits like a tilt and hoodbows etc also. ;)

[Dmmos]

If I were in your position I'd use it as a daily - assuming it's not hard to get it back to how it is today...

That being said, why not give her some new history? ;)

[Shonky]

PS - I have the bullbar on the back of the Patrol here at work today.

I will drop it off at yours on the way home - a bit before 4pm. ;)

[disco2hse]

Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet


(needs a name asap)

Cougar ;)

Courtney (Cox) :D

Alan

[isuzutoo-eh]

Well.
I like the idea of having a pristine restored vehicle with history.
But I need a vehicle I can drive and enjoy.
My plans don't exclude reconversion back to the condition it is in now.
So the diesel engine will go into it, once registered etc I'll take the time to reco the petrol engine and mothball it along with the other bits and pieces I don't use.

Then one day I'll buy myself a County and reconvert Dirty Mary aka Black Maria;)

Thanks to everyones suggestions :)



Dave, Shonky dropped off the bullbar today, it's a very nice piece of work! Think I might have a bit of trouble because the posts are slightly (about 1cm overlap per headlight) too close for the headlights, meaning there wouldn't be any lateral spread. Will experiment but I don't like my chances. Its just about perfect to what I wanted too :(

[Dmmos]

Well.
I like the idea of having a pristine restored vehicle with history.
But I need a vehicle I can drive and enjoy.
My plans don't exclude reconversion back to the condition it is in now.
So the diesel engine will go into it, once registered etc I'll take the time to reco the petrol engine and mothball it along with the other bits and pieces I don't use.

Then one day I'll buy myself a County and reconvert Dirty Mary aka Black Maria;)

Thanks to everyones suggestions :)



Dave, Shonky dropped off the bullbar today, it's a very nice piece of work! Think I might have a bit of trouble because the posts are slightly (about 1cm overlap per headlight) too close for the headlights, meaning there wouldn't be any lateral spread. Will experiment but I don't like my chances. Its just about perfect to what I wanted too :(

That's cool - take your time (I'm charging daily)...









:p

[Sideroad]

I have just let mine lapse but I was on full comp historic rego with suncorp and it was only a slight bit more then just getting 3rd party property. I had it at an agreed $4500. They were really easy to deal with and they were the ones that recommended i go historic.


While chasing insurance I have been asked to email a photo to an insurance co so they can work out what a 1963 Land Rover series 2a is, because its not in their register. This is ridiculous. The insurance company calling themselves Australian 4WD Insurance (DGA Insurance), and they don't have old Land Rovers.
Not to mention they won't insure me till i'm 25.
Lumley Special Vehicles won't insure because I can't keep it garaged and actually wish to drive it.
Shannons won't insure under 25s.
Just Car don't recognise 1963 Land Rovers.
QBE don't do old cars.
Commbank doesn't have Land Rovers pre 72
Allianz ditto
Ecar, nothing pre 1984 Land Rover
NRMA Classic car division requires garaged storage.
NRMA comprehensive actually will cover me, woah, incredulous.

I'm starting to enjoy chasing insurance quotes, baffling the poor telephonic experts.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Well well well, last week I read this thread start to finish and got reinvigorated.
Just a few posts up, I was saying that i'd put the diesel in, and when I got a County i'd go back to the petrol engine.
Well now I have the Isuzu County i'd always wanted and its nearly mechanically sorted so at least its safe and reliable, while poor Mary was left forgotten in the carport whilst I and my father parked on the street.

I'm going to get her finished with the petrol motor, and save the diesel for the future. To this end I need to get the dodgy core plugs out of the head, and change the front crank seal. Parts are to hand.
Tried to remove the core plugs today, 3/4 of them were peaned over, 4/4 won't budge. So the head will come off and get tested, planed and cleaned. I'll do that in the coming week or two.

I then tried to take the crank dog off to get closer to the crank seal, I can wind the whole vehicle up the driveway but can't budge the crank dog.
I unbent the lock washer tabs, i sprayed penetrating oil on it every day for a week. I looked at the diesel engine and couldn't see a grub screw or anything else. I put the vehicle in high range 4th with the handbrake on and wheels chocked. I don't have a spanner or socket big enough, so I am using Shonky's largest shifter. As stated earlier, I can move the vehicle but not shift the crank dog. I presume to remove it I must turn it in the opposite direction to when I hand crank it.
Have I missed something here on getting the crank dog off?


EDIT: This new found interest in ye olde Series was mainly brought on after conversing with fellow series owners; Series3, Dullbird, Dmmos in particular.

[JDNSW]

........
Have I missed something here on getting the crank dog off?
...........

It is, as you surmised, a normal RH thread. Perhaps what you have missed is the recommended torque - 150lb ft. That is tight; and it has probably been that way for several decades, so I estimate it will need at least double that figure to move it!

John

[chazza]

I then tried to take the crank dog off to get closer to the crank seal, I can wind the whole vehicle up the driveway but can't budge the crank dog.
I unbent the lock washer tabs, i sprayed penetrating oil on it every day for a week. I looked at the diesel engine and couldn't see a grub screw or anything else. I put the vehicle in high range 4th with the handbrake on and wheels chocked. I don't have a spanner or socket big enough, so I am using Shonky's largest shifter. As stated earlier, I can move the vehicle but not shift the crank dog.

They can be very tight, so try the following:
1. Use low range; hand-brake on; 1st gear; chock all four wheels.
2. Get rid of the shifter before it buggers the hex and buy the proper socket. Measure across the flats with a vernier caliper and buy a good quality socket such as Sidchrome. Whilst you are at the shop, buy the longest breaker bar they have to go with it. Measure the length of the dog as well because you may need an extra-deep socket. If a socket won't work buy a ring spanner.
3. Try loosening the dog with the socket and bar - using a pipe as an extension is OK, provided you respect that you might bend or break the spanner if you use too much force. Aim to double the length of the bar with less force than you used on the bar alone.
4. If the car moves chain it to another car, or sizeable tree, low down.
5. Hire or borrow an oxy-acetylene set and heat the hex to just below red-heat if the above have not worked.
6. Try loosening it again when it is warm - this has always worked for me!

Before putting it back on, grease with Loctite anti-seize.

I have read of an alternative method, which I have never tried, in which the spanner is placed on the dog and the engine is then cranked on the starter, whilst in neutral. The spanner then describes an arc and bashes into the chassis, at which point it is supposed to shock-loose the dog. I don't like the sound of it (although it is supposed to work) because of the potential damage to the chassis and spanner and possibly the starter,

Cheers Charlie

[series3]

Hey mate if you are doing any midweek work days on the car, let me know I can come and give a hand.

[LR 4809]

Hey mate if you are doing any midweek work days on the car, let me know I can come and give a hand.

I've just joined the mighty Aulro and pleased of it. What a great thread, the trials and tribulations. Keen to see the finished product isuzutoo-eh and will enthusiastically await the finished project and some pics of the County if you feel the urge to post. I am slightly obsessed with the mighty LR.
Thanks for a great Sunday.
Jo.

Series IIB 61'
County V8 86'
Range Rover Vogue 06'
Defender 60th Anniversary 110 08'
Greedy and happy.

[d@rk51d3]

I've just joined the mighty Aulro and pleased of it. What a great thread, the trials and tribulations. Keen to see the finished product isuzutoo-eh and will enthusiastically await the finished project and some pics of the County if you feel the urge to post. I am slightly obsessed with the mighty LR.
Thanks for a great Sunday.
Jo.

Series IIB 61'
County V8 86'
Range Rover Vogue 06'
Defender 60th Anniversary 110 08'
Greedy and happy.

Welcome aboard. :cool:

[LR 4809]

Welcome aboard. :cool:

Embarrassed myself first post. I meant IIA 61'. Nice of you not to mention it. Thanks for the welcome. I must not drink red wine and post. Jo.

[series3]

Welcome Jo, I'm jealous. Any pictures of your fleet?

Sam

[LR 4809]

Welcome Jo, I'm jealous. Any pictures of your fleet?

Sam

I'II get the camera out and post brood on members rides.
Jo.

[isuzutoo-eh]

John, Charlie, thanks for the advice. I find more and more its my tools and muscle letting me down :( so i'll do some more investing in quality tools. I'll give it another crack when I have a suitable socket/breaker.

Sam, its too bloody cold in the evening! But having said that i'll take the head off this week and send it away for cleaning/testing/plug replacement. When I get the gasket kit and head back i'll give you a shout, much appreciated. Should be able to get her running in one evening.

Jo, welcome to the forum. You certainly have an enviable collection! I'm looking forward to seeing your photos and reading about your Landy adventures too! I'll get something up about the County as soon as I start making it my own :)

Cheers,
Mark

[isuzutoo-eh]

Series 3 Sam came over this evening to give me a hand with getting the head off.
It wasn't as big a job as I expected, and I had already taken off the rockers, so it was down to the intake and exhaust manifolds, oil line and a few other bits.
Only took about 2 hours, an extra set of hands makes for quick work. Also helped that nothing was seized particularly tight.

Cylinder 1
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1212.jpg

2&3
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1213.jpg

Cylinder 4
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/1214.jpg

This is the 2.25P, I have decided not to use my 2.25D in this vehicle at this stage.

The bores are very smooth and the piston rings are nice and tight-no slop at all. The pistons are very sooty, the vehicle hadn't had a good run in a few years, as neither I or the previous owner had it roadworthy. I had idled it a fair bit though. The plugs were similarly sooty. Whilst the colouring would show otherwise, there is hardly a lip at all where the rings end their travel.

When you take a head to be cleaned/tested/ground I guess you need to take the valve springs out first?

Thanks Sam for spanner wielding and giving me a reason to get outside and work on it! (I think you have one of my spanners though mate, or else its in the bowels of the engine bay)

[chazza]

When you take a head to be cleaned/tested/ground I guess you need to take the valve springs out first?

[/SIZE]

Yes. If the movement in the valve stem appears to be excessive when rocked from side-to-side with the valve spring off, then get them to replace the valve guides.

If the seating face of the valves is ridged or pitted, get them to grind them - heavy wear will indicate the need to buy new valves probably,

Cheers Charlie

[ashhhhh]

Re. the crank dog - I did this just recently.
I used a 350mm breaker and a 1-11/16" socket. A few wacks with a sledge had it off.

[Bearman]

Mark, Just checked my large sockets and I don't have one that big. Largest I have is 41mm - thats about 3.5mm short.:(

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day Brian, Thanks for looking. I have the same size ring spanner as your socket but the only thing I have thats capacity is larger is stilsons! BTW I should be able to pick up your gb on Saturday. Will let you know when its palletised.

Ashhhh, Cheers for the headsup on the appropriate size. I'll widen my search.

Chazza, thanks for the advice, I'd best borrow my Grandpa's valve remover tool. I am surprised by how tidy this engine is so hoping it hasn't worn :cool:

[dullbird]

mark wha size socket would you need in mm....

[drifter]

46mm is the closest assuming the chart I have is accurate

I know it's 1 11/16" (1.688")

See the chart here (http://www.dropbears.com/u/utilities/spanners.htm)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Lou,
Sorry I didn't see your post.
It measures out to being 42 and a bit mm if I remember correctly. Drifter is most likely correct about the 46 being closest metric size.

[ashhhhh]

The 1 11/16" is not a tight fit, you could get away with rounding down to the nearest metric size.
Like you said, 42mm would probably be the best bet. I doubt you'll have much trouble getting a socket in that size.

[d@rk51d3]

42 is too small......... :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ashhhhh]

:confused:

Must be very close though. 1 11/16" converts to 42.8mm (or so) and I know for a fact that 1 11/16" fits the nut fairly loose.

[Johnno1969]

That's the most beautiful thing I have ever seen....

[isuzutoo-eh]

That's the most beautiful thing I have ever seen....

Hey Johnno,
Thanks for that:) Its the sort of comment that makes me want to get back into it.

Then again, it could be because I broke the County that i'm pushing ahead with Dirty Mary (the Black Maria) :coplight:

Yesterday I torqued up the head, this evening i've fitted the manifolds, oil pressure and temp senders and carby. I'm about to get stuck into the radiator. All going well I should be able to get some oil, water, fuel and spark into her and wake the neighbours tomorrow.


Oops, is that the time, better get back into it!

[disco2hse]

(the Black Maria) :coplight:

Jeez, now there's a term I haven't heard in a long time.

:wheelchair:

[isuzutoo-eh]

SHE RUNS :MileStone:
:banana::banana::banana:
Been a while since the old girl has spluttered into life. Today she's a runner.:cool:
Couple of problems with tappets, had to swap some push rods around as the original order didn't suit the new valves...Then forgot to connect all the spark plug leads up so was running on two cylinders till I realised :bangin:
Running a little rich at the moment, probably needs a timing adjustment too.
Need to fix the throttle linkage too before I can get her in motion. Tonight before I get on the drinkies :angel:

Tomorrow, i'll attack the electrical problem and probably rewire half of it along the way.
:arms:
Sooooo Exciting
:banana::banana::banana:

[bobslandies]

Congratulations Mark,

This is what the Black Maria would have looked like. Spot or fog lights on the front, NSW Police Department sticker on the doors, (although this vehicle has no sticker on the passenger side door) - nothing much else though. All Police vehicles had 3rd month registration labels, COT would be March 1962.

This photo was taken on the day work began on the NSW Police Driver Training Centre on Mona Vale Rd at St Ives. Standing in the centre in the back is the then Commissioner Mr Norman T W Allan.

Bob

[isuzutoo-eh]

Wow Bob, that is fantastic!
Mine has the same single parker/blinker combined set up too! Dead Ringer!
The drivers door had been scrubbed of something, right through the green paint, somehow doubt it was the original sticker since it's 47 years after service began, but still, never know. And looking closely, the sticker is about the same size as the missing paint.

Would there have been a siren behind the grill? There isn't any places on the dash to actuate any accessories.

[bobslandies]

Mark,

That got your attention didn't it! Here's a few more.

Bob

[bobslandies]

Here is the Registration label and the rear of the vehicle showing it has no blinkers, not needed at that time.

Should be defected for not having the windscreen wiper on the passenger's side operational!

Don't you love the hats! Norm is in the background of the second photo.

I have the original prints so if you want to make some larger copies for display we can organise it before the All British Day.
One of the door stickers is available;) - could possibly be copied.

I don't remember if sirens were fitted to all vehicles. This one does not have a radio as there is no high band vhf aerial visible - can't remember when they (high band) were introduced either.

Bob

[isuzutoo-eh]

Sensational.
I will take you up on the offer of getting copies before ABD if I can get the show on the road soon. For the door sticker, pity nobody has invented Aluminium magnets, some double sided tape on a laminated copy might do the trick for first show conditions. Just have to remember to not drive with it still on :nazilock:

Funny, the passenger side windscreen wiper is still unservicable on mine. Must get to that asap, or see if I can leave it off :angel:
The photos were definately 1962, not sometime after '63?
The lack of rear blinkers might point to why mine has trailer blinker lenses now, it may never have had Lucas lenses. I'll nick the lenses off the County while its off the road anyway.

I have a nearly complete soft top set-up now, won't be serviceable by ABD though, the frame is twisted and bent, but all the brackets around the doors and windscreen top are accounted for. Need the clamps that go on the tub to hold the bows on still...



...and I will require a Cops Are Tops sticker too :)

[bobslandies]

. Need the clamps that go on the tub to hold the bows on still...


...and I will require a Cops Are Tops sticker too :)

I think I can help on both;). Give me a call.

Bob

[isuzutoo-eh]

Problem and question for the assembled intellect:
Getting the head off, the vacuum advance pipe was broken near the middle. This is 1/8th" dia steel bundy tubing with an olive on one end and a flexi rubber hose the other.
Brake Pro, Better Brakes, SuperCrapco etc don't carry 1/8th, the brakepro bloke said to go to an instrument maker.
What sort of instrument maker should I be looking for? A quick google search came up with violins, mandolins, various horn and reed instrument makers...
Where can I get steel or even copper 1/8th" bundy pipe? I don't want to go to plastic, it would look out of character in my opinion.

[Shonky]

Might be easier to get it off a wreck...

[JDNSW]

Sensational.
........ For the door sticker, pity nobody has invented Aluminium magnets, ...........

If you stick a sheet of steel to the inside of the door, magnetic signs will work.

John

[peterg1001]

Where can I get steel or even copper 1/8th" bundy pipe? I don't want to go to plastic, it would look out of character in my opinion.

Try ebay, the miniature steam enthusiasts use 1/8 pipe. I'm not sure about the olive, though.

Alternately, give this mob a go Autometer Copper Tubing - 1/8" (6ft) - ModYourCar.com (http://www.modyourcar.com.au/autometer-copper-tubing--18-6ft-p5653).

Peter

[chazza]

Try a gas-fitter for copper tube; my local bloke carries all sizes and I think 1/8th is the size they use for pilot-light tubes. If you end up buying copper, anneal it after you have cut it to size, so that engine vibrations don't crack it prematurely,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

Thanks Pete, Charlie,
Why didn't I think of the Live Steamer blokes? I work in a hobby shop and read their mags afterall! Gas fitters are probably easier to find locally though.
Good point about annealing the copper, steel is preferable for this reason I suppose and part of the reason that copper brake piping isn't allowed.

To this end, silver soldering a short section of brass tube to fix the break wouldn't be advisable would it? It'd be a localised stress point that'll cause problems further down the road I suppose.

[chazza]

I can't see any problem with silver-soldering the broken one,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

Running like a swiss watch today :D

Solex carby needs rebushing on the throttle spindle, it weeps a little bit.
The main jet had some crud in it, so cleared all three jets to be sure.
I would like to acquire a second Solex that I can rebuild as a spare.

Timing needs a check, just found my Dad's old school neon timing light so will give that a whirl sometime.

There oil feed pipe between head and block leaks, its missing the upper copper washer. Need to source one.

Oil is dripping onto the manifold somewhere.

Repaired vacuum pipe works a treat, short bit of brass tube, yorkshire flux, soft soldered. Forgot to flush it though :eek:

Air to go in tyres check/replace all fluids.


Neighbours must love me, they were hanging their clothes out to dry downwind of where I was starting and tuning the thing.

Tomorrow will attack the dreaded electrics and have a squiz at the County fearbox.

The speedo is in MPH, will it matter if I use oversize (7.50R16) tyres and have an incorrect speedo, considering I wouldn't have the foggiest idea of what my speed will be anyway? (have to get a cigarette lighter socket for the GPS speedo ;)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Running like a swiss watch today :D


Of course, having said that, I can't get rod of a miss. Idle is fine, fairly quiet and smooth.
Put the throttle down and it picks up alright, for maybe 5 seconds usually until I put load on it, then one cylinder starts missing. I've rechecked tappets, cleaned and gapped the spark plugs. The plugs were all sooty from running rich. All four are getting spark as otherwise it would miss at all throttle openings.

Any advice?

When it isn't missing, its like a sewing machine:)

[JDNSW]

Of course, having said that, I can't get rod of a miss. Idle is fine, fairly quiet and smooth.
Put the throttle down and it picks up alright, for maybe 5 seconds usually until I put load on it, then one cylinder starts missing. I've rechecked tappets, cleaned and gapped the spark plugs. The plugs were all sooty from running rich. All four are getting spark as otherwise it would miss at all throttle openings.

Any advice?

When it isn't missing, its like a sewing machine:)

Check -
Condition of HT leads
Distributor cap tracking
Compression leak, possibly sticking valve
Leak between intake manifold and head
Sick coil, points or condenser
Leaky throttle spindle

Roughly in that order.

The miss under load is more likely to be an ignition problem, as the charge is harder to ignite under load.

John

[isuzutoo-eh]

Thanks for those pointers John, I will work through them.

I do know that the throttle spindle leaks. I didn't think that'd cause just one cylinder to miss though?

[JDNSW]

Thanks for those pointers John, I will work through them.

I do know that the throttle spindle leaks. I didn't think that'd cause just one cylinder to miss though?

No, not likely - but are you sure it is the same one missing?. If it is, it has to be something that affects one cylinder in particular. This means either a compression leak, an air leak at that port on the intake manifold, or, most likely, an ignition fault. This is most likely a HT lead, but could be a cracked or tracking distributor cap, or a loose top bearing in the distributor that gives a short points opening for that cylinder (unlikely).

Unless almost new, I would be inclined to replace all the distributor leads - they are not that expensive!

John

[chazza]

The plugs were all sooty from running rich. All four are getting spark as otherwise it would miss at all throttle openings.

Any advice?

When it isn't missing, its like a sewing machine:)

The plugs may have been sooty from the engine running cold. Were they sooty after a run with the engine at operating temperature?

I agree with John; spark plugs can work well at idle but play up at faster speeds as the gas pressure increases in the cylinder. Replace the plugs with something decent such as NGK, if you haven't already, and then work your way backwards towards the distributor and coil if the symptoms persist,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

G'day ladies and gentlemen, blokes and sheilas,
Series 3 Sam came around today to lend a hand and offer his experience to the cause. We got a good bit of work done but still, the engine misses.
So far, I have replaced the HT leads, the coil, condenser, points and spark plugs. Sam 'borrowed' his known good dizzy cap, points and rotor button onto it as well in case that was the problem. None of these changed anything. Often, after tinkering with the ignition, it would run nicely, until it was revved up or put under load. Then if nothing was touched and it was restarted, it'd still miss.
I replaced the gasket above the spacer on the Solex, the spacer was found to be cracked so I gasket gooed it over the crack and on both surfaces when reassembling. All surfaces were clean, but I didn't check for warping.

We ran the engine and sprayed penetrating spray (and deodorant :p) around the inlet and exhaust manifolds, and around the carby, to see if it was sucking it in. It wasn't. Spraying down the throat didn't change the miss, so its not running lean. Running with the choke on the first position upped the revs but didn't cure the miss either.
Tappets are all so close to 10 thou clearence if I adjust them, i'm likely to lose accuracy.
The studs on the exhaust manifold are pretty ancient and rusty. One is missing. The spray test didn't show it was sucking or blowing past though. I have new studs, will pick up nuts tomorrow to fit them.
The carby isn't leaking past the throttle spindle any more.
I will pull the plugs tomorrow to see if it is just the one cylinder every time or if its any one cylinder at a time.

So at this point in time, the possible problems are:
1. buggered distributor body
2. sticking valve
3. blowing past manifold gaskets
4. cracked carby spacer causing problems

It would have been faster and cheaper to put the diesel in :(

[series3]

Series 3 Sam came around today to lend a hand and offer his experience to the cause.

Ha!

[Bearman]

Sure having your share of problems mate. It's a long time since I tinkered with series donks but I was wondering if you had checked the vacuum advance on the distributer was working properly. A long shot but worth checking. It wouldn't cause a single cylinder to miss but all of them to sort of run rough especially under load. Also have you done a compression test on all cylinders. This would rule out leaking rings/valves.

[Bunjeel]

I'm not familiar with LR or Series motors but this reminds me of a problem with a different motor some years back where I had the plug leads in the wrong FO and while it idled not too bad, as soon as a load came on, it started seriously missing on 2 cylinders. Took much head-scratching and effort somewhat like yours to solve because the FO was in my head and I didn't think I needed to look at the manual or the manifold stamping. (Needless to say I beat up on myself for weeks afterwards :().

.... cheers.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hello gentle readers,
Lucas, Prince of Darkness and short circuits has (briefly at least) turned his back on Dirty Mary!

Geoff (Quarks) rocked up around lunchtime in a shiny TD5 110, to be helpful and smart. We made a start fitting up the bits of a soft-top frame up, working out how it fits and wondering why the first hoop after the door has been cut up into two pillars with no roof bow...
So then we had a crack at the tub wiring. I always thought I was good at electrical stuff. Until Geoff took over. Then I realised that I am mighty good at confusing myself and making suppositions that would get me a seat in parliament.
Wasn't long before we'd worked out there was a short somewhere in the brake/tail lights, we'd tagged wires and made good headway.
Enter Geoff 2 aka The Booger.

A green former fighting machine pulled up out the front, its commander jumped out with test equipment at the ready.
The two Geoffs sorted all the rear electrics out, added wires, fixed bits, worked out that one of the two fuses was actually blown (brake light) whilst wondering why the third fuse didn't seem to have anything connected to one end (It is a spare:D). I did a great job standing there and grinding stuff with the dremel. It made me damn happy to get that rather intimidating sparky problem sorted.
Then it was to the engine. Earlier in the day I'd attempted to move the old codger into the sun, but couldn't even get her to rev over idle.
Geoff 2 (The Booger) suggested it was sucking air somewhere. Aerostart was wielded, potential leaks shot. Nothing made a difference. 'til the vacuum advance hose was heard to hiss. The flexible rubber coupling wasn't tight on the bundy tube- squeezing the end stabilised the idle. It could then rev up freely, though it was still missing. Brian, you were so close to the money...the vac advance works but wasn't, because of the leak!
Geoff 2 reckons that the timing will be out a fraction, hence it runs so nicely and quietly when it is firing on all four and develops as much power as a computer mousewheel. It is most likely retarded a little, like duck's feet.

So the course of action is to check timing, seal the vacuum line, put a new blinker housing/lens on one side and a new lens the other, get an unperished windscreen smearer blade (GaryCLR's don't fit the arm), oh yeah and adjust the brakes :eek: and hope that's sorted it for the Blue Slip.

Geez I've learnt a lot about engines and systems recently.

Thankyou so much to the people who have helped these last weeks, Sam, Geoff and Geoff; John, Charlie, Bob and Brian in particular have been tremendous help with the fault diagnosis and support. My Landy confidence is returning. And thanks Shonky for the lend of your Rangie!

[Landy Smurf]

good to hear that your nearly there and that you have learnt alot about it all

[series3]

Good to hear mate. Looking forward to ABD!

[Shonky]

Wish I could have come and joined the fun!

Then we could be confused by electrickery together... :angel:

FYI - going to have to put the Ranga on the market soon, but it's yours until it sells.

[isuzutoo-eh]

No worries Andrew, I have the huyundai to drive around anyway, only reason I hadn't given the Rangie back was in case I need a tow vehicle to get Mary to ABD... :D

[Shonky]

LOL!

Keep in mind the tow hitch is only 1,600kg rated, and very high... ;)

[THE BOOGER]

Its ok shonky he will only need to tow it uphill and drive very fast down hill:D

[isuzutoo-eh]

WOOHOO and BOOHOO

I had a visitor today, on loan from a friend. This visitor, Ben, is bloody good with engines.
I now know why I could not get it to run appropriately.

The rocker shaft is worn out, it has deep grooves and steps. Some of the rockers have nearly worn through their brass bearing sleeve, very ovalled, and were free to twist. This is why there was a prominent tappet-ish sound that couldn't be adjusted out.

We had a look at the 2.25D rockers to see if the whole assembly or at least the rockers and shaft could be used on the 2.25P, but only the shaft is the same dimensions and usable. The P rockers were too far worn to use on the D shaft. I will try and get the rockers resleeved and acquire a new shaft.

The vacuum advance diaphragm is also shot, so will be replaced (probably the whole advance unit?)

While we were at it, we (well, Ben) pulled the sump off and checked out the crankshaft bearing surfaces, we're going to put new bearings in it as some were showing signs of wear. Since the pistons seemed fairly new, this work willl result in having a near enough rebuilt engine.

So not a lot of good news, but at least problems have been properly diagnosed so I know where to aim next. Rego is still a few weeks off it seems:( No photos yet either

[THE BOOGER]

No good sometimes it just seems like one thing after another on an older car but as you say almost a new engine when finished:)

[UncleHo]

G'day Isuzutoo-eh :)

It might be worth getting in contact with "Master Chief" or his dad, they are up you sort of way, they might just have a good s/hand set of rocker gear, or you could send him a PM :)

I haven't read this thread right through, so I don't know what the chassis No is but it looks like it could be a pre 1960 vehicle (series2), and if purchased for a Govt dept. it would possible had the Optional Flashers fitted, hence the Foxton flasher switch,they were a kit jobbie,but if fitted when new, by the distributor, it would have had the flashers working through the parkers,(Morris Minor style) and through the red rear lights(sequenced through the stop filaments, also Morris Minor style) only in about 1961 on commercial vehicles was it necessary to fit amber lamps,they may have even had the early Morris minor type blinker switch fitted to a panel near the right end of the dash assy,it was a brown/black bakerlite switch with a green light in the centre of it,(these were in the centre of the upper dash on a morris minor undr the bottom of the windscreen) the base SWB Landrover was only ever supplied with one(1) wiper the other was an accessary :eek: as was the spare tyre.

If the chassis No is 1439 (1959 2.25) or 1430 (1960 2.25) 1431(1961 2.25)
and if chassis No 2430 (1961 S2a 2.25)

BTW. if it is "Chuffing" through the exhaust pipe, then look for a burnt exhaust valve ;)


Hope that is of some help. my appoligies if this going over previous territory.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Thanks Uncle,
I have ordered bushes for the rockers already and pending a quote from the UK will chase up the Pollards about other serviceable second hand parts.

The vehicle has a January 1963 build date (I haven't posted the chassis number), your description of running indicators through the park light system is correct for the front at present, but has been revised for the rear with trailer blinker housings so I don't know if it had flashing reds or not. I didn't know that was a possible scenario actually! Likewise I don't know and will probably never know if the front parker/indicator combination is original or a later installation. Thankyou for your recollections. I will leave off the second wiper motor since it is non-operational at present anyway.

It was chuffing through the exhaust pipe, but the valves were recently replaced! It had better not be a burnt exhaust valve, as I paid too much for that head work already :(

[UncleHo]

G'day Isuzutoo-eh :)

If you have had the valves done, I would do a compression test on the cylinder that has the miss, remove the plug and wind over several revs and watch if it looses pressure, or it could be badly adjusted tappet clearance .010 Hot or Cold, I like 0.011 or 0.012,;) at the worst it could well be a cracked seat or they have not lapped the valves in correctly :( if the latter is found THEY PAY cost of labour AND valve regrind w/head gasket set ;)

To be on the safe side I would fit the amber rears, using Lucas lamps, again the Pollard's might be able to help with period parts, any other Lucas bits that you require, starter, generator,instruments,lamps etc, I would recommend KB Classic Parts, (Kevin Baker)(07)54 944 221, he is not on computer,but has fax (07)54 944 114. if ordering parts quote all and any numbers on the item ;) he should be able to supply the wiper parts(little insulator block is usually the problem,use white grease as the other clogs the gears :)


cheers

[isuzutoo-eh]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/455.jpg

The photo above shows the worst of the wear on the rocker shaft. Some of the rocker bushes are badly ovalised too. I am glad my parents are overseas for a few more days as they wouldn't approve of the items in their dishwasher.
I am going to drift out the old rocker bushes and put my recently acquired NOS bushes in, I will either pinch the rocker shaft off my diesel 2.25, which is in good condition, or if the parcel from the UK gets here soon, I will have a shiny new one to install :)

[mick88]

When do we get to see some latest pic's of her????

Mick:confused:

[isuzutoo-eh]

hmmmm when I actually do something more to her?
I cleaned and painted the sump a lovely middle green on the weekend, changed the wheels for another set so I could put the Michelin roadies on my County, ground back some rear crossmember welds that I hadn't finished cleaning up and put a quick layer of paint on the ground bits. Also installed the speedo cable. Thats the progress report for the last few weeks. Nothing much worth photographing I am afraid to say. :unsure:
I don't have a suitable press for rebushing the rockers so haven't progressed past removing the old bushes. The new rocker shaft did turn up so I have everything I need to do the top end now. Need a few bits for the bottom end still.


Will get back in to it later in the month

[JDNSW]

........... Thankyou for your recollections. I will leave off the second wiper motor since it is non-operational at present anyway.

.......

In 1966 I moved from NT to Sydney - and was forced to fit a second wiper motor to my 1961 2a to register it in NSW. I will be surprised if you can get away without a second one!

John

[peterg1001]

In 1966 I moved from NT to Sydney - and was forced to fit a second wiper motor to my 1961 2a to register it in NSW. I will be surprised if you can get away without a second one!

John

I checked with Brian down at Land Vehicle Spares, and he advised only one was necessary for a blue slip. It would be worth asking the question before you spend money on a second wiper.

Peter

[chazza]

I don't have a suitable press for rebushing the rockers so haven't progressed past removing the old bushes. The new rocker shaft did turn up so I have everything I need to do the top end now.

If you get a mandrel turned on a lathe, you can press the old bushes out in a big vice and push the new bushes in. The new bushes will probably need to be reamed to make them fit the rocker shaft though,

Cheers Charlie

[flyinglandrover]

isuzutoo-eh

Great thread! Very envious of your vehicle! How did you go with the 1/8" copper tubing? I have some 1/8" stainless steel tubing you could have if required.
Let me know

Gary

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Gary,
Thanks for your comments. I managed to solder the copper tubing back together and its holding vacuum, unlike the advance diaphragm. If it does cause me troubles though I will definately seek your assistance :)

Chazza, I'm going to be lazy this time and get someone with a workshop and talent to fit the rocker bushes and reassemble the shaft. I need an easy win with my Landies before I want to throw in the towel

[isuzutoo-eh]

I'm going off my rocker! Last year, I pushed the bushes back into the rockers, as Charlie predicted they need reaming to fit the shaft. My tools aren't good enough to expect concentricity. After a pointer from my preferred Landie mechanic, I asked a local engineering shop to help me. Today I picked up my parts, unfinished. Seems that reaming them is a difficult job, and I was advised to see if there is any easier option (aka, getting bits that fit from the start), before going ahead with the potentially expensive machining job.

The parts I have all came in LR genuine packaging, from Paddocks I seem to recall. The bushes are at most 0.8mm too tight for the shaft.

Has anyone any pointers on reaming these damned rocker bushes?

Remember they have a slit to allow them to 'crush' into the housing, have an oil hole that has to be aligned with the same in the housing, and have oil galleries. The material is brass coated in whitemetal AFAIK. Very easy to ream out of concentric.

I noticed there is more than one type of rocker-diesels have a shorter length than petrol, but the shaft was the same when I compared my two engines. Perhaps I have the wrong bushes? Is there more than one type of 2.25 petrol rocker or shaft?







This step has been so long in process that I have forgotten what else needs to be done (this thread is handy to see whats been done!) and some oil weeps have developed :(

In other news, I couldn't help myself: I bought a Jac Mac diff lock from the markets here. Not one of those fancy air operated ones, but a bolt action job. Would have been rare and highly desirable when new, a bit of a curiosity now, but will work well nontheless! Will make my 2a more capable than my County if I get her running...
Thanks Bruce and Sam for that one :)

[THE BOOGER]

Been watching this thread to see when mary would ready for a trip:D maybe a call to brian or george at LVS to see who does their machine work:)

PS: putting a locker in a series is cheating just get stuck like the rest of us:angel:

[isuzutoo-eh]

After the last few trips with you in The Booger and Sam in his Series, I'm stoked up to get some Serious Series action of my own.

Yeah the locker is cheating, I want to learn to drive better lines in general before using a locker so won't install it for a while anyway :)

[chazza]

The material is brass coated in whitemetal AFAIK. Very easy to ream out of concentric.

I noticed there is more than one type of rocker-diesels have a shorter length than petrol, but the shaft was the same when I compared my two engines. Perhaps I have the wrong bushes?



My parts book lists the diesel rocker-bushes as: Exhaust 247738; Inlet 247737 and the petrol for both as: 247614.

0.8mm seems a bit excessive to me, especially to ream it all away,

Cheers Charlie

[isuzutoo-eh]

Shonky dropped in this arvo when I was meant to be working.
Dirty Mary 1 - YouTube

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:


Timing is still out. Still a few leaks to ponder over, all the electrics that Geoff and Geoff helped out with work perfectly (well, right side blinker is still slower than the left), I need to change the gearbox and transfer oil, and put the roadworthy wheels that my County keeps borrowing on.

[clubagreenie]

So it's right for this weekend then.

How many pins on the flaser can? If I remember, it's possible to wire some up so they work but not fully correctly.

[isuzutoo-eh]

So it's right for this weekend then.

Bahahaha!
btw Justin can I borrow your Dad's engine crane soon? I need to take the 2.25D out of the tub before I drive it anywhere :p

I also am missing a throttle linkage. Well, I know where mine is, but a certain ambulance needs it this weekend, time sharing engine parts :cool:

I'll have to pull off the dash and check the flasher can, but its not an original Rover system, as this one wasn't built with blinkers.

[clubagreenie]

I'll get around to having a look at the elecs, linkage is std rover rods is it?

Engine crane is easy, it's mine, need stand too?

Give me a call when free re the weekend.

[Quarks]

Looking good!

:)

[THE BOOGER]

So we can organise a series weekend at Mt Airly now:D

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hmmm Series Mt Airlie trip. How did you know that was what I was thinking. Its harder since that first trip we did though! The convoy would need a few winches dispersed throughout, and I'd better put my locker in so I can be the winch anchor :)
May also need a trailer load of spare half shafts...

[clubagreenie]

Got a high mount going cheap for it...

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Mark

You certainly have kept me quite tonight, I read all of this thread.

Well done !

Cheers Arthur

[isuzutoo-eh]

Thanks Arthur!

Ran it for around 20 minutes this arvo, set the timing and idle, engine temperature of ~88ºC and 55lbs oil pressure, seems okay to my uninformed mind. Loving how smooth this engine is!
Started unloading the multitudes of stored Landy bits scattered throughout and all around the vehicle, should be able to get it onto the lawn tomorrow arvo if I can shift a caravan out of the way first...
Might take a day off next week to pursue roadworthy certification.

Everyone loves a photo, best I can do:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/753.jpg


Hey Bobslandies, don't let me forget I still have your timing light!

[clubagreenie]

Ready for the expo? What needs to be finished before?

[isuzutoo-eh]

I'll try and have her ready for the expo but not going to rush it. I know a swivel is leaking and the aforementioned slow indicator, I won't know what else till I can drive it out of the carport. Thinking of skipping sunday's Yalwal run to play Series.

[clubagreenie]

Definately, next Tues good for elecs? I can have a play, just fill the swivel. I'll drive it, you can drive the in case tow vehicle.