Front drive shaft and uni's, 110 county

[Mikey0211]

Hey guys... I have been noticing some clunks recently from the front end of my county..

got under this morning to have a bit of a look and noticed the front uni joint is absolutley shagged....

Where would be the best place around brissie to get a replacement, (new or secondhand)..

Or does anyone have a spare there willing to sell to me... Couldn't have come at a worse time as i've got a few trips comming up and very little time inbetween work to try and source one...

Thanks in advance.

mikey

[JDNSW]

Universal joints to fit it will be available from any bearing supply outfit. And they probably will have a reference for the correct one, but to be certain, pull the shaft off and take it (or just the U-joint) with you. There is probably one nearby.

When replacing the joint, if you have the sliding joint apart, remember to assemble it with the marks aligned, not with the yolks aligned as you would expect.

John

[rijidij]

replacement, (new or secondhand)..
mikey

For the price of a new one I wouldn't fit a second hand one.

Murray

[discowhite]

i agree ^^^^^
new ones are quite cheap. despite what you may think:eek:

cheers phil

[XSiV]

Speaking of uni joints, I noticed mine weren't acccepting grease whe I tried to grease them the other day. Is it worth pulling them apart, cleaning and reassembling them or should I just go and get a new set?

I have also noticed quite a bit of back lash in the front shaft any ideas how I remedy this?

If i was to get some replacement uni's where would be the best place in SW sydney?

[rijidij]

I have also noticed quite a bit of back lash in the front shaft any ideas how I remedy this?


If the movement is in the spline of the prop shaft, you can get the shaft reco'd. There are guys who specialise in this sort of stuff. Basically it involves cutting off the old splines, welding on a new spline section and balancing the shaft. Not cheap though, cost me $400 with new uni's.

Murray

[JDNSW]

Speaking of uni joints, I noticed mine weren't acccepting grease whe I tried to grease them the other day. Is it worth pulling them apart, cleaning and reassembling them or should I just go and get a new set?


First unscrew the grease nipple and see if the problem is there (likely). Lot easier and cheaper to replace the nipple than the whole U-joint!

rijidij - my experience is that reconditioning a propshaft on the 110 was going to cost almost double the cost of a new, genuine part, although you might do better if you live in the city and there is a choice of people to do it. Unless my memory is faulty, because of the need to rebalance the shaft and the problems that can arise if it is out of balance, the work has to be done in a workshop specifically approved to do it (in NSW at least).

John

[discowhite]

Speaking of uni joints, I noticed mine weren't acccepting grease whe I tried to grease them the other day. Is it worth pulling them apart, cleaning and reassembling them or should I just go and get a new set? uni joints from hardie spicer at morebank, heathcoat rd, are around the $30 mark, i couldnt be bothered cleaning one for that:D

I have also noticed quite a bit of back lash in the front shaft any ideas how I remedy this? is it in the slip joint or the T/Case?

If i was to get some replacement uni's where would be the best place in SW sydney? answered in the red;) the front part number should be k5 13xr. not sure if the rear salsbury has larger uni's?

cheers phil

[XSiV]

If the movement is in the spline of the prop shaft, you can get the shaft reco'd. There are guys who specialise in this sort of stuff. Basically it involves cutting off the old splines, welding on a new spline section and balancing the shaft. Not cheap though, cost me $400 with new uni's.

Murray

Thanks Murray, I just checked out the price of them and a front propshaft from britparts costs $162.87. I think a new one would be the better/cheaper option.

[XSiV]

answered in the red;) the front part number should be k5 13xr. not sure if the rear salsbury has larger uni's?

cheers phil


from the transfer case.

[wovenrovings]

The salisbury unis are not larger. Just watchout as there is two different driveshaft sorts, and they take similar but not the same uni's. The one with a concertina type boot over the spline (or should have) takes the normal uni joints like most LR's. The other driveshaft has a seal held in by a nut thing with two flats on the spline. This takes a slightly different unijoint. Same diameter bearings but the distance across the cross (over bearing caps) is different. Hope this makes sense.

Dan.

[JDNSW]

The salisbury unis are not larger. Just watchout as there is two different driveshaft sorts, and they take similar but not the same uni's. The one with a concertina type boot over the spline (or should have) takes the normal uni joints like most LR's. The other driveshaft has a seal held in by a nut thing with two flats on the spline. This takes a slightly different unijoint. Same diameter bearings but the distance across the cross (over bearing caps) is different. Hope this makes sense.

Dan.

Two paraphrase the above - Landrover have used two different size U-joints on 110s. Check which ones you have.

In my experience, the ones as described by Wovenrovings as having the nut with two flats is the newer style and has the male part of the sliding joint on the short bit and the smaller U-joint. The older style has the male bit on the longer part of the shaft, and has the larger U-joints, same as most Series Landrovers. They may or may not have a concertina dust cover on the joint. I would not rely on these descriptions, but either take a sample to the bearing shop, or measure the distance between the flats of the bearing cups. The tailshafts are interchangeable, so relying on the date of manufacture or the VIN is not reliable.

John

[discowhite]

they will be 1300series and 1310series spicer joints. the bigger the number the bigger the uni.

cheers phil

[discowhite]

from the transfer case.

thats factory! common to have almost 1/2 a turn:eek:

cheers phil

[barney]

you're only looking at about $25-$30 for a uni joint for a 110

[XSiV]

thats factory! common to have almost 1/2 a turn:eek:

cheers phil

well ok then, it's not quite half a turn but if that's normal then i guess it's ok.:eek:

it is ok isn't it?

[discowhite]

yes.

cheers phil

[Mikey0211]

Two paraphrase the above - Landrover have used two different size U-joints on 110s. Check which ones you have.

In my experience, the ones as described by Wovenrovings as having the nut with two flats is the newer style and has the male part of the sliding joint on the short bit and the smaller U-joint. The older style has the male bit on the longer part of the shaft, and has the larger U-joints, same as most Series Landrovers. They may or may not have a concertina dust cover on the joint. I would not rely on these descriptions, but either take a sample to the bearing shop, or measure the distance between the flats of the bearing cups. The tailshafts are interchangeable, so relying on the date of manufacture or the VIN is not reliable.

John


hehe... yep, I found this out the hard way this arfternoon... picked up the uni joint, got it half fitted and then reliesed i had the woring part....

Didn't matter too much as the uni on the rear of the front shaft was pretty well siezed any way, so went and got 2 new (correct ones) and fitted....


Was pretty easy, only took bout 40mins for both..:)

[cewilson]

Try any car place that sells Ford Falcon uni-joints (about $22 ea) :)