slotted swivel hubs

[lambrover]

the long weekend provided enough time to get in the shed and play landy. so I wipped the swivel hubs off and slotted the holes. my county has 130mm bumpstop clearance and the castor angle was all wrong, after reading Discowhites fix for the castor correction I thought i would give it a go. I marked out the flange where the new hole had to go and center punched the the new position, I then drilled the holes out starting with a pilot drill then going up 4 drill sizers at a time. I then used a die grinder to join the two holes up. Now to how much to rotate the hub, first measure the curcumfirance of the flange which was 383mm then divide it by 360 degrees,=1.06mm. this measurment is equal to 1 degree. Now stock castor is +3 degrees with approx 70mm bumpstop clearance so that is a differance of 60mm or 2.4" for me. I have read that for every 1/2" of lift you loose 1 degree of castor so multiply 2.4 by 2 and this gives you the degress lost by the lift= 4.8 degrees, take 4.8 from the factory +3 degress and you have -1.8. to correct this you multiply 4.8 degrees by 1.06 to give us the distance to rotate = 5.088mm. so fit the hub and make a referance mark on both flanges on the hub and the axle housing(best done before removing from the vehicle) now fit two bolts on opposing sides not to tight though and use a steel rule to measure your adjustment nip the bolts up and check your measurments again, when happy referance mark the new position on the housing. then continue fitting the cv and hub assembly as per normal.

[discowhite]

nice job!
ive just done my 2nd set on the ute, be buggered if i can get them to move either:twisted:
on the first set i used an angle gauge sitting on the king pin swivell bearing and got it within .5 a degree according to the wheel alignment.
the set ive just done on the ute i marked and moved 5mm, left the angle gauge at work:cool:

cheers phil

[Larns]

Hay Lamb, how about you post up a pic of why you have to do this. You mad bastard.

Check your PM's too

[lambrover]

thanks discowhite, all went well and I have been out and have check it all and still no movement and I don't think there will be. I moved mine 5mm and it has made so much difference.

Larn's, what do you mean:D.

got some photos for you.

the nissan is my mates and he has 7inch lift and the county can stay with it for flex :twisted:, the only time he can go further than me is if he uses his lockers. so I am really happy with that.

[Slunnie]

Gotta love these axles.

In the Toyotas they cut the ends and rotate them before rewelding to do the equivilent.

[lambrover]

yep very good, very cheap and easy to do as well and you maintain driveline angle, which is lost with corrected arms, I would like cranked arms at the chassis though, can't be to hard to make.

[lewy]

all you need now mate is a isuzu,

[lambrover]

yeah I know a guy who has one as well :p

[peachey80]

Hey buddy,
Nice work indeed !!
How wondery was yours before you did this ?

[350RRC]

Hey Peachey...

It's like people whose shoulders dislocate all the time asking someone who has had the op to fix.

If you're needing to ask the question you need to do it.

One of the all time best things I did to mine, which has a 2 and a little bit" lift.

Love your truck BTW.

cheers, DL

[shinz]

Lambrover/Discowhite, did either of you drill a locating hole with a bolt thru it after you had got your angles right to positively stop any unwanted rotation? I've seen this mentioned on a Brit forum & wondered if you thought it was necessary?
Steve

[discowhite]

nope,
the set on the disco have been on there for over 2 years now, been everywhere in that time, vic high country, fraser island, 3 trips back to QLD,,,and i drive/brake hard..if they were gonna move they would have by now.

its completely do able if your nervous about it, but not necessary in my view.


cheers phil

[lambrover]

I second that discowhite, I have only slotted the holes and have no other bolts through it as I might want to go higher to 4 inch:twisted:, they haven't moved and i don't think they will.

before doing this mod the car was very twitchy and unnerving to drive but now it is alot more relaxed as you don't have to worry about keeping it in your lane.

[c.h.i.e.f]

I know this is an old thread but I am thinking of doing this to my county since I am looking at a 4inch lift because I believe it will be the more effective way to stop my steering issues so was just wondering could someone put up a few photos of what was done and the procedure ? after looking at the front end I think I may know what needs to be done but would just like some more detailed descriptions before I start machining :)

[DeeJay]

I know this is an old thread but I am thinking of doing this to my county since I am looking at a 4inch lift because I believe it will be the more effective way to stop my steering issues so was just wondering could someone put up a few photos of what was done and the procedure ? after looking at the front end I think I may know what needs to be done but would just like some more detailed descriptions before I start machining :)


Can't get more detailed than this thread...:)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/70107-caster-corrected-front-swivels-how-do.html

[POD]

That thread gives good detail of how to fit up a pair of slotted housings that someone (such as LRA) has already machined, but no info on how to go about slotting the housings yourself. Unfortunately it also has a mystifying and confusing discussion about the totally unnecessary process of tilting your diff.
I've just done this mod from scratch in my shed with good results. I took a heap of photos of the jig I made plus the slotting process but due to software probs cannot post them at present.
If you search 'slotted balls' there is some good info.
I don't think it is totally necessary to get the caster exactly to spec, considering that a RR with EAS alters the caster angle at speed every time the front suspension raises or lowers.

[c.h.i.e.f]

That's helpful but I'm looking more for how to slot the swivel hub myself ...

[ADMIRAL]

I don't think it is totally necessary to get the caster exactly to spec, considering that a RR with EAS alters the caster angle at speed every time the front suspension raises or lowers.
It may be more of the other way around. The EAS is trying to keep the castor constant as the suspension goes up and down. The castor gives the vehicle directional stability. I would go to the trouble of getting a wheel alignment reading before you start. With your slotting, look for approx. an additional 1/2 a degree of positive castor on the lh side. Providing the camber is pretty much even side to side, this will stop the vehicle 'falling ' down the hill on cambered roads. Don't overdo the offset from side to side, as this could have a detremental effect on directional stability under severe braking. If the camber is out by more than 1/4 of a degree side to side, you may have to play with the offset. Your wheel aligner can help with advice on this.

[lambrover]

That's helpful but I'm looking more for how to slot the swivel hub myself ...

Ha mate read my first post and that will give you the maths, so you move it the correct amount, I think it is about 1.3mm equals a degree, when measureing from the out side perimiter of the flange. I used hermaphrodite calipers to scribe three lines on the flange. measure in to the out side edge of a bolt hole, set your scribe up and scribe all the way around, then measure into the inside edge of the hole then do the center line as well. measure the bolt hole diameter, county is 3/8 and defender 10mm and half. measure from the edge of the bolt hole along the scribed centerline 5mm and center punch it, then drill it out. I used a die grinder to take the excess material out, stay within the scribed lines.

before removing the swivels referance mark the flanges (I used a cole chisel) to the axle housing, when refitting measure up the desired amount from the axle housing referance to the swivel flange referance mark, I made the LHS half a mm more for the road camber. two years later I had the car at a wheel alignment place and the castor was spot on perfect so the maths works and the swivels didn't move.

[c.h.i.e.f]

Thanks lambrover that helps alot :) I talked to an engineer and of course they said they do not like the idea of doing this but he then said as long as there is sufficient metal left between the holes and some way of locking the hub to stop it swivelling under braking (a bolt straight through both) even though no one has had a problem so far.

[lambrover]

Thanks lambrover that helps alot :) I talked to an engineer and of course they said they do not like the idea of doing this but he then said as long as there is sufficient metal left between the holes and some way of locking the hub to stop it swivelling under braking (a bolt straight through both) even though no one has had a problem so far.

No worries, I though about welding a bead on the flanges once set up but got lazy and and never did it, but now I have adjustment when ever I want it depending on different springs. The county had a 2 inch lift then later on I fitted a 3 inch lift so it was handy not being welded. Loctite the bolts and way you go. But engineers are probably right. Not to hard to do.

[c.h.i.e.f]

Auh never thought of just a bit of weld on there :o I think I might give it a go soon because I am thinking of giving mine a 4" lift and it will save alot of hassell with steering and also be cheaper than all the components like radius arms and then double cardon tailshafts etc etc