101 Ron
9th May 2009, 04:55 PM
After talking to Garrycol about his transfercase and the fact he was able to adjust one of the transfercase gearshift rods to correct a problem he had with his cable gearshift ,I thought I would look at mine today.
My problem was it was difficult to shift back into high range after being in low range.
The transfercase would jump back out shortly after.
The problem was getting worse with it not wanting to stay in high range at all.
I have previously asked on the forums about this a told it was most likely end float on the gears.
A quick inspection of the transfercase with the top plate off showed the transfercase to be in perfect condition except for some wear on the high range drive dogs and wear marks showing it was not fully engaging on the dogs.
Two forks are used for the gearshift, one for low range(not adjustable)
and the other for high range.(adjustable via clamping bolt)
Loosen off the clamping bolt on the fork and move it towards the front of the truck and the other fork much as possible and tighten.
Problem solved.
On the though transfercase gearshift shaft another clamping bolt tightens a arm on the gearshift shaft so the position of the external lever for the gearshift cable can be positioned in the best possible place.(this is what garrycol done)
All this has shown me a few things.
The cable gear shift on the 101 transfercase has alot of leverage on the internal gearshift selector forks which can bend in service with a heavy handed driver and bad cables which will give little feel.
( all other landrovers which I know of ,which use this transfercase have short stubbie levers with no great leverage on the gearshift.)
Use low range on all hard pulls as the high/low drive dogs are a bit small for the job and low range more that halves the load on these items and the gearbox.(And uses the low range dogs more as the high range ones get most of the wear.)
Luckily on a 101 the above is a very easy job because of the excellent top of transfercase access.
Ron
My problem was it was difficult to shift back into high range after being in low range.
The transfercase would jump back out shortly after.
The problem was getting worse with it not wanting to stay in high range at all.
I have previously asked on the forums about this a told it was most likely end float on the gears.
A quick inspection of the transfercase with the top plate off showed the transfercase to be in perfect condition except for some wear on the high range drive dogs and wear marks showing it was not fully engaging on the dogs.
Two forks are used for the gearshift, one for low range(not adjustable)
and the other for high range.(adjustable via clamping bolt)
Loosen off the clamping bolt on the fork and move it towards the front of the truck and the other fork much as possible and tighten.
Problem solved.
On the though transfercase gearshift shaft another clamping bolt tightens a arm on the gearshift shaft so the position of the external lever for the gearshift cable can be positioned in the best possible place.(this is what garrycol done)
All this has shown me a few things.
The cable gear shift on the 101 transfercase has alot of leverage on the internal gearshift selector forks which can bend in service with a heavy handed driver and bad cables which will give little feel.
( all other landrovers which I know of ,which use this transfercase have short stubbie levers with no great leverage on the gearshift.)
Use low range on all hard pulls as the high/low drive dogs are a bit small for the job and low range more that halves the load on these items and the gearbox.(And uses the low range dogs more as the high range ones get most of the wear.)
Luckily on a 101 the above is a very easy job because of the excellent top of transfercase access.
Ron