Progress report.

[101 Ron]

I am starting this thread just to give small up dates on about our vehicles.
This weekend had me travelling to a friends place to get parts and return Nowra .....Wilton.
A lot of the way and up MTOusley I had a good pacing competition with a TDI200 Defender 110 and the 101 was up to the job on the flat and up the hills.
I think it is sorted as well as you can get a 101 with a stock motor.
Every time I push the old girl hard these days it plays havoc with the tail shafts.( and fuel burn)
This time the rear shaft shook its self loose bolt wise.( more new nyloc nuts . spring washers and loctite.)
The overdrive is spitting out oil from every place possible.
I am currently making a small alloy cover plate to fit over the end of the counter shaft on the overdrive to stop any movement of it and to stop the oil getting out pass the shaft which must have no O ring seal on it as made.
The bar threads are wearing fast at speed and on the tar.
The exhaust needs a new T junction in front of the muffler.
A nice curving Y junction would be better for flow , but not much room for it without a major design on atleast one pipe.
I am currently trying to up grade the electronic ignition system with a better Pertronix one which will be harder in get wet with a civi 12 volt dist.
One one wants to know about what fits what on Lucas distributors and is making it very hard.
We have a great reference of information here folks on Aulro.
Keep it up.
Garry how did you go with the tank.
Gazz hows the shockers coming along.

[101RRS]

Ron - I think it must be time for new driveshafts - or maybe you need to stop racing other landies on the highway. It will be interesting to see how mine hold up - they seem all nice and tight but time will tell. 10 years ago my 101 was at the tip of Cape York (found some paperwork) and was laid up soon after, so I assume my shafts have done some work and are still OK.

You should have left the ARB cover bright red.

I am not going to worry about the fuel filler for the moment - will see what happens next fuelling and deal with it then. The sender unit burnt out while I was playing around with it so it was pulled out and with a bit of solder and wire is now working again and reinstalled with new cork seals. The gauge still reads 1/4 full on empty and stays on full for half a tank - fixed that by bending the float arm a bit so now stays on full just a little and a black marking pen on the gauge to remove the empty mark (1/4 mark is now empty) and a bit of whiteout made the new empty mark heavier. I will have to get a new sender and gauge. I have ordered a backup fuel pump.

Was happily putting the gauges back in the dash and the illumination globe on the speedo shorted out and BBQd the illumination wiring and the panel light switch (where was the fuse:mad:). I have stripped back the wiring harness and will run new wiring - I have a spare switch. I have no idea why it shorted - later I am going to build a new dash binnacle so that access can be gained without having to pull everything apart. As is it is a design disaster.

Back to it - it ain't so cold today - a nice 7 degrees this morning.

Garry

[101 Ron]

My over drive is leaking oil from the back of the counter shaft.
The alloy end plate has been rotated 90 deg and ground away slightly, near the shaft.
Normally this plate partly covers the shaft to hold it into place and stop it rotating.
What has been happening is the shaft moves a bit and oil leaks between the shaft and alloy housing.
Note I have drilled and tapped four small holes around the shaft in the housing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/922.jpg

[101 Ron]

I made this alloy cover for the shaft on the lathe at home.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/617.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/923.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/618.jpg

[101 Ron]

It fits on like this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/919.jpg
The hole in the centre of the plate lets out excess sealant and a centring hole for turning the thing up.

[101 Ron]

Sealant wiped away and plug in.
I took the vehicle for a drive today........it works.
No more leaks from the shaft.
The silly overdrive still leaks slightly from the gear shift shaft.
I may be able to fix that by taking the top off the overdrive and adding a O ring to the shaft.
That was not a option with the overdrive counter shaft as the it would have been a full strip down and why pull some thing apart if it is working well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/920.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/921.jpg

[101 Ron]

Ron - I think it must be time for new driveshafts - or maybe you need to stop racing other landies on the highway. It will be interesting to see how mine hold up - they seem all nice and tight but time will tell. 10 years ago my 101 was at the tip of Cape York (found some paperwork) and was laid up soon after, so I assume my shafts have done some work and are still OK.

You should have left the ARB cover bright red.



Garry

My tail shafts are OK.
I just have to stop racing other Landies with 5.57 to 1 diffs and high uni joint angles.

[Dave Jump]

Have you tried linking the overdrive breather to the transfer case breather? Think I read somewhere this helps stop them blowing oil out of everywhere.

[101 Ron]

The over drives fitted to the early range rovers and the same ones as used in the 101 is vented internally to the transfercase and shares the same oil .
It is the reason why they last longer than the ones used on the series landrovers.
It is a pity the series overdrives were not the same as with the lower power of the series motors they would have lasted for ever.

[101RRS]

Well I have been slowly working on getting my 101 ready fore rego - it is amazing how many little things pop up and how long they take to fix. I have sorted out all the electrics and they all work OK now - after about 4 weeks of work.

Since my 101 was released from the army, it spent most of its time in the far north of Australia where the heater was not needed. A previous owner pulled the heater out and installed a HF radio in the spot but to assist in engine cooling, the heater core was installed in the tunnel in front of the radiator so worked as an additional radiator. The ventilation fan was removed to make room.

I pulled all this out and while I am happy to drive a landie in a cold winter in Canberra, a heater will be required for rego. The heater core looks a bit dodgy so I decided to put in a combined A/C - heater under dash unit in instead of the original heater core that I had lying around. I had hoped to get it all rigged up today but it has been raining so only had a couple of hours. I did manage to get the unit in but not plumbed to the engine coolant.

Here are some pics

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/ventilation001.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/ventilation002.jpg

I cut some holes in the sides and this will take air to the demister vents - plastic spray can tops fit the front holes perfectly and will force air to the demister but even without them air still comes out the side vents. Later I will put the original fan and vent into the tunnel to force outside air into the cab and the underdash unit and put in proper vents nozzles on the front. As it is winter, I will just block the hole into the cab so no cold air comes inside.

Later I will install an A/C compressor and get the A/C side working.

This seems to be a good alternative to the original heater though the heater core I have is small by comparison. Certainly will not warm the whole truck but with a fume curtain in place should heat the cab OK.

With this heater all connected, all I need to do is adjust the brakes, put on the canvas hood and then try for rego.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

It appears to fit in very well and seems to be the way to go for a aircon option.:)
I do know the lack of a heater idea will disappear fairly quickly.
My 101 untill recently lacked the drivers side vent.
The alloy foot well on the drivers side was like a deep freeze as the alloy conducts the cold so well.
I find on a very cold trip unzipping the boot around the gear stick even helps as a strong blast of slightly warm air helps to pressurise the cabin a bit and slow down draughts.
Us 101 drivers are a tough breed.:p:p:p

[101RRS]

I have heat and a demister.

All connected up and actually throws out quite a bit of heat to both the cabin and windscreen. The roof comes off tomorrow and the canvas goes on, then just a few little things and that is it - hopefully.

I drove around the block a few times today with the engine warm and it pulls strongly - I need to sneak down to the garage to fill up with LPG.

Brakes are still a worry so I will adjust up again.

Garry

[101RRS]

Started today doing some odd jobs like building a battery box for the 12v system and buying some screws and fittings to replace my missing camlocks until I can buy some. Started to remove the tin roof but as usual is a bit harder than it should be - as well as being bolted and riveted it is glued to the hood bows with that glue that is used to glue on car panels.

When cutting some of the supporting metal out a large bit fell and hit the angle grinder that had been turned off but still spining - the cutting disk hit my thumb joint and cut through to the bone - blood every where but is OK after I strapped it up.

I then needed to move the 101 off the drive from under my shade sails out into the open so I could climb up on top to grind off rivet heads. While getting into position a bit of forward and backwards was required and when moving from reverse to first - the gear lever came out of the top of the gearbox. I spent the rest of the day fixing that - the pin that hold the short stubby lever in the ball joint on top of the gearbox had broken - I found a drill bit that was a tight fit and used loctite to ensure it will not move.

I find it amazing how these little distractions keep on popping up but we are getting there.

Garry

[101RRS]

While getting into position a bit of forward and backwards was required and when moving from reverse to first - the gear lever came out of the top of the gearbox. I spent the rest of the day fixing that - the pin that hold the short stubby lever in the ball joint on top of the gearbox had broken - I found a drill bit that was a tight fit and used loctite to ensure it will not move.
Garry

Some pics - taken on my mobile phone in poor light - the Nokia is OK in the day but poor at night and in low light.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/25072009005.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/25072009004.jpg

Garry

[101 Ron]

Garry .........the gods are not helping you.
I have been trying to improve my stop when I get the thing wet syndrome.
I fitted NGK high tension sparkplug lead ends to the spark plug end of the leads.
I have used these on motor bikes and they pretty much water proof that end of the leads.
P/N....VBF 8913.
I also removed the fan from the altenator to stop it picking up water and it throwing it on the dist and coil.
I dont think the altenator will over heat as it is a 55 amp unit and up to 120 amps is made with the same housing.
The altenator hangs down low in the air stream.(and water)( I have also killed one altenator though mud in the avatar pic)
It must be remembered my altenator position is at the bottom of the motor , instead of at the very top as per standard and my ignition system is non standard using a 12 volt points civie dist and a external electronic conversion box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/360.jpg
the red wire runs to the elctronic ignition box which is mounted up near the ignition coil.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1565.jpg
Looking side on the the alt from underneath.( fan on altenator yet removed )

[101RRS]

Ron your alternator is where my secondary 12v alternator is but I still have the full on waterproof 24v system but I do not know how waterproof it is.

Your alternator is down in the airflow so I do not think you will have an over heating problem. I appreciate this comment will not be all that helpful but even if the electrics do get splashed the ignition should not falter but I know that is easier said than fixed.

Have you thought about a couple of home made rubber splash guards that will deflect the water away from crucial parts.

Garry

[101RRS]

The tin roof is now gone:).

First up this morning
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Roof002.jpg

Mid morning
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Roof004.jpg

Mid afternoon in the rain
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Roof006.jpg

The top is in really good condition but it has not been on a 101 in a long time and has shrunk a little. The front fits all OK but at the rear it needs a bit more stretching - I guess a good drive will stretch it a bit. I am not quite sure how it all goes together but we are getting there.

A pic of the cabin with the ventilation in place. Later I will put the original fan back in with its flap to allow airflow into the cabin - at the moment I just have the hole blanked off so the underdash unit is takes air from the cab. Likewise, later I will insert a T junction in the flexible pipe to provide ventilation to the foot wells.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Roof003.jpg

Garry

[101 Ron]

My top is from Tarmore trim UK
It is a tight fit.
It is best to fit when dry as canvass shinks when wet.
I modded my top with elastic shock cord all round to help access the sides quickly.
The shock cord helps keep every thing in place as the rope that was originally used will work loose whisle driving .

[101 Ron]

The shock cord is very hard to feed though the canvass.
I use the fume curtain inside my 101 as I find it much easier to heat the cabin.
The fume curtain also does stop exhaust fumes from reaching the driver.
The fume curtain removed makes inside the vehicle much larger.
I fitted a extra eye let on the passengers side near the door to try and stop the canvass pulling back away fro the door channel.
Most draughts comes from just behind the doors.
The back lets in very little dust when done up correctly.
I use shock cord on a extra hook here too to keep the canvass tight and pulled backwards as well.
My jerry cans on the back restrict acess to the rear hooks for the canvass,

[101 Ron]

See how tight the canvass is and the use of shock cord.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/978.jpg
Look carefully and you will see a small die cast hook on the tube running inside the canvass at a 45 degree angle with some extra shock cord hooked around it.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/275.jpg

[101RRS]

Thanks for the pics Ron - I agree about using stretch cord. The rope can be a bit of a pain. I will try to readjust the top when all is dry. Yours seems much tighter than mine so I guess I need to tighten things up a bit.

I just drove down to the garage to get 40 litres of LPG (not filled since the tank test) - the truck drove really well and I got up to 70kph but it was poring rain so I didn't want to push it too much. The steering is a worry though, there is no slack in the system but still wanders and requires constant correction.

When not driving ie at home the engine will switch to LPG OK and keep running but when driving on the way back from the garage the engine would die when switched to LPG - tried it a few times - I just assumed the LPG was taking its time to get through the system as it idled OK on gas back home. Though the thermostat only just opened when I arrived back so maybe the LPG system on my truck needs the coolant to be hot before switching - even with the "shot button" to fire lpg into the engine it will start on LPG.

I will check with the LPG man when I take the truck to him for my roadworthy this week.

Garry

[101 Ron]

You need to switch to the middle position and run out of of petrol first.
When you feel the engine die go over to LPG.
If you dont do that the thing runs poorly as it is burning two fuels at once.
Got pics I have taken tonight coming showing canvass.
Coming soon.

[101 Ron]

Check pitman arm nut on splines on steering box.
You need a very large spanner of the correct size.
I had the same problem and couldnt see any play in steering.
Triple check than nut as it is very hard to see if it is moving and loose.
I done it and the thing steers good now.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/86.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/265.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1642.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/266.jpg
More pics coming

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1643.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1644.jpg
more coming

[101 Ron]

This is the fume curtain from the passengers seat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/87.jpg
This shows the extra eyelet I fitted to stop the canvass pulling back out of the channel behind the door on the passengers side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1640.jpg
I think there is still another pic coming.

[101 Ron]

last one.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1641.jpg

[101RRS]

Thanks for all those pics Ron - the back of your top is cut a little different to mine but I have some ideas - I will also replace the rope that is used to tie up the sides at the rear to the rear hoop.

I will do it later though. I do not have a fume curtain as yet but will knock up a temporary one out of some vinyl I have and hold in place with some cable ties.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

I should have spare fume curtain ?....if I havent already given it away.
I will check soon

[101RRS]

I should have spare fume curtain ?....if I havent already given it away.
I will check soon

If you do have one you want to sell - I will buy it :)

Garry

[101 Ron]

found it.
Will take it to Oberon........just to give you a bit more drive to get that 101 running on Rego.

[101RRS]

Thanks Ron,

For the first time I ran the engine today with the engine cover on - wow it is really quiet inside - particularly when compared to driving it with no engine cover. I have double insulated the engine cover with special sound insulation material and aluminium sarking.

Booking the drive permit for Wednesday subject to the mechanic being available.

Garry

[DODGE]

G day all

Havent been on for a long time back at tafe. garry the air con/heater looks the goods and the canvas looks great. ron havent got any further with the shocks yet. was out in mine the other day and started to get a funny smell in the cab so i pulled over to sus it out. it turns out the regulator in the lucasa prince of darkness alternator has decided to put out 17 volts and has cooked the battery so im in the process of fitting a bosch and my brakes are still faulty but i can live with them. itrs good to get the adrenalin going every now and then.:D

Cheers gaz

[101RRS]

and my brakes are still faulty but i can live with them. itrs good to get the adrenalin going every now and then.:D
Cheers gaz

What is wrong with them? As far as I can tell they are dodgy even when working well. A future project for me will be to investigate putting discs on the front but not Zeus as their pricing is over the top.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I got the exhaust fixed on my 101 today.
It was leaking at the tee piece in front of the muffler.
Naturally we didnt replace the Tee as it is just all wrong for flow.
It ended up with a small Y section jointing the two pipes together infront of the muffler.
I can feel the motor reving just a little bit more freely now at around 4000 rpm.

[101 Ron]

Having to stay at home and look after the kids gave me pently of time to fiddle,
I ended up fitting the series three door lock I had on the drivers side door and cutting out the hole for the key lock which the old lock didnt have.
It was supprizing how worn the old lock was.
The barrel came though the door in a completely unexpected place for me, but thats OK.
the lock that came off was marked 06/1976 and the one that went on 05/1979
The newer lock also has a small indicator to show its is fully locked,
The things we learn.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/2007.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/2008.jpg

[101 Ron]

Being such a sunny day I gave my on board tools and spares the once over.
Just as well as everything was going rusty(those creek crossings again)
This is my tool box I keep the recovery gear in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/461.jpg
The gear thats in it,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/408.jpg
4x bow shackels
1x winch extension strap...(hardly needed with the 101s 65 mtrs of cable)
2x snatch blocks
1 x snatch strap
Pair of gloves
Spanner for transfering winch pulley head from rear to front if required.
1x tree truck protector.

[101 Ron]

The LHS tool box contained.
Hydraulic jack
Jack handle
1/16 double deep socket and 1/2 drive breaker bar to remove wheel nuts.
1x double hooked universal chain (drag chain)
1x can inox(WD40)
and I have now added a large hammer.
1x spare engine to oil cooler hose
The plastic bag wrapped it shrink wrap is a transfercase drive gear and transfercase cover with special cir clip pliers so if the overdrive goes bang I can remove it on the side of the road and go on without it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/412.jpg

[101 Ron]

The RHS tool box was in need of a up date and now has been repacked with this
spare throttle cable and special small spanners to fit and adjust it.
1x set of special spanners so carbies can be removed.
1x set of open end / ring spanners.
2x 9/16 spanners and a spare bolt and nut for tailshafts/
4 mtrs 1/4 fuel hose.
1x electric fuel pump.
2x carbie diaphrams
1x rotor button.
4mtrs 3mm electrical wire
12 inch shifting spanner.
screw drivers
test light.
1x 12volt work light
12x cable ties
1x tube silastic
1x 159 grams bars leak
spare 1/2 heater hose and hose clamps to suit.
1x univesal flexi radiator hose with hose clamps.
insulation tape.
duct tape
250 ml silicon brake fliud
1x brake pipe blanking off fitting.
3x spare vee belts
1x maniflod (exhaust gasket)
2x hack saw blades
spare sparkplug.
1x high tension lead
I think that covers it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/411.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/410.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/409.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/2006.jpg

[101 Ron]

Behind the drivers seat under the spare well I carry a long air hose for the on board air with type chuck and extra long nozzle air blower tool for cleaning the radiator if required.
1x booster lead extra heavy cable that fits on to the 175 amp anderson plug at rear of vehicle.
1x bottle of handsoap at side of driver seat.
1x pen knife under seat.
1x pair glasses on windscreen heater duct out let on drivers side in front of dash board.
1x 6 inch shifter and flat blade screw driver on passengers side foot well pushed in behind heater and front vehicle panel.
1x tree truck protect0r sitting on top of battery box.
2 xLandrover monthly mags sitting on top of battery box.

[101 Ron]

Standard 101 shovel , pick ,and crank handle on front.
Axe fitted in gun holder on dash board.
extinguisher beside battery box.
Matcedetee tied to spare wheel.
Do you think I have it covered ?

[101RRS]

Well Ron, nice list of things to start with - I need to start compiling my goodies.

What the hell is a Matcedetee?

Garry

[101 Ron]

Spelling the computor spell check couldnt find it......long jungle knife for chopping the living day lights out of the green stuff that tries to take out my mirrors.

[tas101fc]

you swappy two pig and one good wife for this Matcedetee? thing

mabee i frow in goat too.

[101RRS]

Spelling the computor spell check couldnt find it......long jungle knife for chopping the living day lights out of the green stuff that tries to take out my mirrors.


LOL - :D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

What the hell is a Matcedetee?

GarryNeed a better spell checker or Wikipedia it!*


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1969.jpg

[101 Ron]

geeze I was not that far off the mark.
It is a sign of a miss spent youth down at the pin ball parlour

[101RRS]

So Ron - what have you done lately on your truck????

I put the fume curtain in to get a modified copy made - $300 - $350 :o

Garry

[101 Ron]

Just been keeping things the way they are for a while and repairs.
The Pertonix ignition system is working good and is far more water proof than the previous system.
( I am waiting on a photo of my last outing to post of the 101 doing its thing in a bog hole )
If you have a 12 volt machine , or are using normal high tension leads NGK high tension lead ends/sparkplug covers P/N VBF 8913 black work well to water proof things a bit.
I have blown another rear hub oil seal again and will most likely sort it out this weekend and have a better look at why ?
A broken door opening retaining strap has beeb replaced and I made up a few spares.
The run off road last week over a track I have done before has shown the lockers are just making it so much easier with less strain on the vehicle as no run up is required.....just first low a crawl up with no fuss.
Wish I had money currently as the dollar is good and Peter P found some Hystee springs in the states.
Interestingly from the British 101 site I have read Defender rear Shocks will fit rear of a 101 with mods.
As I have a defender at home I will check this out soon.
I am extremely please with my 101 currently as it is producing the goods off and on road currently and I see little reason to play with the original design any further.
Long term things...........
Spring and shocker up grades.
Tidy up poor wiring by a previous owner.
Roof rack for carrying canoes and roof top tent.
Improve my LP Gas system by fitting a three stage gas convertor.
Wider wheel wheels to allow fitting of modern radial tyres.

[101RRS]

Wider wheel wheels to allow fitting of modern radial tyres.

Eastern Wheel Works in Melbourne will put 8" or 10" rims on your centres for an all up price of about $150. You will need to take out your centres (grind the rivets off) and use EWW courier - they get a new rim ($80) and weld it in ($50) and then courier them back - all up price around $150 a wheel.

There are a couple of 36/37" tyres that will fit on 8" rims but 10" rims give a huge range of options.

My LPG system runs well but I still cannot get the engine to start on it. I still need to change the hot water plumbing as when I turn off the water to the heater - it also turns off the hot water to the LPG (poor installation of the lpg system). A full tune up of everything is on the cards once I get a couple of bits from the UK.

I am not sure about the Hystee springs - all the high flex pics on their website are with no shockies and no roll bar so flex may not be as much as they advertise. I also saw the posts about Defender shocks - pro comp and rancho shocks also fit but are a bit expensive.

My truck is going well - have now covered about 4,000km and I am using it more than the Freelander - my tyres definitely do not like bitumen and the fronts are wearing twice as much as the rears. The first level of small blocks on the tyres are almost gone and will be soon on the larger second level of blocks - wear should slow down a bit then.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Brakes have been a bit off lately on the 101 and then I noticed the snail trail of oil from the backing plates on the rear.
I had not long ago relined the rear and replaced the rear hub oil seals for the brakes.
The first time around the wheel bearings were loose and I suspected that was the cause for leaking hub seals.
I pulled it a part to day and this is what I found.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/386.jpg
This is where the seal has been running......nothing appears wrong there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/387.jpg

[101 Ron]

First time around because of the loose wheel bearing I never looked any further.
This time I checked the diff breather.
It is a small banjo fitting with very small internal holes.
A couple flakes of rust up from the axle tube was enough to block it.
The bundee breather tube runs to the engine air filter.
These pics show the set up after I cleaned it and drilled the banjo bolt and housing to a oversize to try and stop any more possible blockage.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/382.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/383.jpg
I was still not happy.
So I came up with this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/384.jpg
It is a festo brand nylon air line fitting which is quick connect and swivels.
The most important thing about is nothing goes up the nylon bundee tube to restrict it as the festo grips from the out side and a lot less chance of internal blockage.
the end result
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/385.jpg

[101 Ron]

Another interesting thing about the hub seals is that they can be fitted in two different positions in the hub.
You can knock the seal until it is flush with the out side of the hub housing or knock it home until it bottoms out on the step for the seal in the hub.
I previously knocked it all the way home as this the way the old ones were fitted.
After inspecting the seal, hub and axle tube there is a possibility of the main lip of the seal not correctly sealing on the axle tube if knocked all the way home.
So I knocked it in flush this time around.
The work never stops as while I was crawling under the 101 I found the front diff pinion oil seal leaking badly.
A rear shock absorber leaking badly and most likely not working.....not that the rear suspension on a 101 moves up and down any how.
The most important thing found is the big air horn has stopped working and my 101 has no decent voice.

[101RRS]

Hi Ron - your photography is getting better - they are nearly all in focus :).

Great pics and something I hope not to see - my breathers end up near the top of the gearbox and not into the engine air filter so maybe yours has been modded.

I got rid of my standard door mirrors today and put on some re-pro defender ones - they work so much better than the originals.

The previous owner set up the LPG hot water on the same line as the heater so when the heater is turned off the LPG freezes up and stops working. The hot water comes from the rear of the engine into the LPG system and then to the heater and then back to the engine at the front bottom inlet.

i want to put in a join so that when the heater is off the LPG will still work - but I am concerned that either the LPG will take all the hot water leaving nothing for the heater or vice versa. Any idea on how much water the LPG needs or any suggestions?

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

Just been checking out the rear shockie situation as I now have a stuffed rear one.
After reading on the Pommie 101 site that Defender rear shocks could be made to fit and having a Defender DC130 sitting at home I have done some measuring.
My defender is fitted with after market KONI shockers on standard 130 suspension and no lift.
Closed lenght is 370mm and extended lenght is 590mm which means 220mm travel.
The working lenght is perfect for a 101
Koni shockers are usually affordable and work well.
Many people do not realise they are adjustable and rebuildable.
The main problem with the Koni defender shocks the top eye hole is much smaller than a 101 shocker.
The answer is to remove the steel bush in the rubber bush of the Koni/ or enlarge the the ID of the bush to fit the 101.
It do not see any problem in doing this.
The defender shockers are working on a Salisbury and low fiction springs (coils) with large possible payloads.
The 101 shockers are working on a Salisburyand low fiction twin leaf parabolics with large possible payloads.
It all fits..........standard 130 early model Defender shockers are the go.
Just got work something out for the front so time in the future.
The only other point is the standard 101 shocks are huge truck type things which have lasted 30 years and I expect the smaller Konis will not last that long.

[101 Ron]

Hi Garry
I never got to sus out your LPG system on the Winter rallie.
If I remember correctly your gas convertor is up near the passenger seat in the engine bay.
The correctly location should be near the rear of the drivers seat in the engine bay as this is the best location to tap into the correct pipes to heat the convertor and why your system is using the the heater circult.
I can not remember the exact set up on the 101, but you need to tap into the steel 25mm ?? pipe down low on the drivers side just on the engine side of the radiator with a tee piece and the other 25mm ?? steel pipe up high just behind the drivers bum in the engine bay with another tee piece.
The tee pieces have to be made one offs as the pipe/ hose sizes needed are a bit unusual.
It is most likely the LPG installer at the time fitted it to the heater circult to try and solve trying to make one off tee piece fittings.
You dont need much flow so long as the water is hot , or if it is not very hot you will need good flow.
The convertor generally doesnt need much to heat it.
The inlet manifold has a few tapped holes or plugs which could be used for hot water.
What you need is the the themostat by pass circult .
Another way is to remove a steel welsh plug and replace it with a brass one which is tapped in the middle for a 1/4 BSP thread and screw in a brass hose fitting.
This pic is looking down just infront of the radiator driver side.
You can see the idler pulley for the 24 volt generator just in the right of the pic.
See the green stripe hoses and a stainless steel home made fitting of pipe with a brass elbow silver soldered onto it.
The black smaller hose is the one curling up and rear wards to the gas convertor just behind the drivers seat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/378.jpg

[101 Ron]

This pic is driver side again and looking down between the rear of the motor and the chassis, but up high just under the rear of the drivers seat.
You can see the gas convertor and the convertor water connection with the green stripe hoses again and the stainlees pipe with a small brass fitting silver solder onto it with a small black hose going to the gas convertor.
This is the way the convertor heating water is normally done over seas by the poms.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/10/377.jpg

It works well on my 101 too.
How you can work it on the other side of the engine bay I can not help unless I look at the set up.
Mis guided 2 ( iain) has the gas contertor on the passengers side and it may be worth while to study that LPG install as it was well done and though out from start to finish.
Regards

[101 Ron]

I modded all my diff and transmission breathers with some brass fittings so they all go into the engine air supply pipe .
If you take note with a standard 101 the transmission breather terminate at the top of the bell housing near a spare air pipe fitting of the motor inlet .
It is a very easy job.
Doing the diffs to the same point is a bit harder as the breather tubes have to be extended.
In this pic you can see the two clear transmission breather pipes together and just out of frame they terminate straight into the engine air let pipe though a spare pipe aready there.( just out of frame above the valley cover)
The smal black pipe from left to middle and runs together with the transmission breather pipes is the extended diff breather pipe and note the spiral wrap around it to protect it.
Also note the speedo correction gearbox sitting on top of the bellhousing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/250.jpg

[101RRS]

If I remember correctly your gas convertor is up near the passenger seat in the engine bay.The correctly location should be near the rear of the driver seat in the engine bay as this is the best location to tap into the correct pipes to heat the convertor and why your system is using the the heater circult.


Thanks Ron - that is exactly what I was thinking - for my system I was thinking of running a small line from the main heater hose into the LPG system and then back to where your green pipe is.

The other alternative was to replace the heater valve up on the dash with a tap that has two inlets and one outlet with the tap switching between the two inlets (one direct from the main heater pipe with LPG system on it and the second direct from the heater - again with the LPG in the line). This will mean I can turn the heater on and off without upsetting the LPG.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

Also note the speedo correction gearbox sitting on top of the bellhousing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/250.jpg

Why do you need one of them? Is that why your speedo reads a little off?? Didn't say you converted your diffs back to original ratios?

Garry

[101 Ron]

Remember my dash board is non standard and is running a VDO speedo.
That little gearbox on the speedo drive made speed correction with 4.7 diffs easy.
It may one day come in handy for the 20 inch mog wheels ????.
The VDO speedo most likely would run a different ratio to read out than the original rover item.

[101 Ron]

I am going with Defender 130 1994 standard suspension height shockers for the rear of the 101.
It looks like they will set me back about $250 each.
These shockers will be adjustable KONIs.
I curently have these shockers on the Defender and I like them very much.
Time will tell how they work on a 101.
The top rubber bush will have to be moded to fit.
The plan is if it doesnt work out I can keep them as spares for the Defender.
Ron

[101RRS]

Ron - that is lots of dollars for the shockies on a vehicle that probably drives just as well without any rear shockies at all.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I had a oil leak from both the rear diff pinion oil seal and transfercase rear out put seal with oil going though the parking brake.
I got the parts and decided to have a crack at it to day.
Everything is straight forward to do.
it is interesting to note the transfercase seal was leaking because the nut which holds the drive flange had come loose.
It is a corse pitch thread and it must be a common problem.
When doing seals on a older vehicle I try to use speedi seleeves when possible if the seal running surface is worn or not as it tightens up the new seal abit more and makes the seal work better and for longer as old vehicles tend to have more play in shafts and splines ect.
Rear diff pinion drive flange speedi seleeve P/N is 99175
Rear diff pinion oil seal P/N is AAV 3381( I used a landrover item as it seals and fits better in the housing of the salisbury than after market )
Transfercase rear drive flange speedi seleeve P/N is 99187 ( It has to be trimed a bit in with after fitting)
Transfercase rear flange seal P/N is (Bearmach) 9062240.
I always fit the drive flange over the splines with loctite and the retaining nuts even if it means using a puller to remove them next time, as drive flange with doenst move on the splines it doesnt wear.
I on the 101 treat the tailshaft bolts as one use throw away as the tailshafts on the 101 with the 5.57 to 1 diffs at highway speeds is at maximum stress.
I use and cut to lenght grade 8 replacements with new Nylocs and spring washers with loctite thrown in too.
Everytime I work on the 101 i just keep thinking how silly the poms were in not developing the 101 for civie market.....It is a great vehicle for its intended role and easy to work on with tuff as nails construction.

Shades of the super sonic harrier and the 4 wd Mini moke etc
Ron

[101 Ron]

My 101 has been suffering.
I am short on funds and time .
Most of my personal vehicle maintance efforts have been going to the alvis stalwart.
The canvas got spiked on a trip to the farm in the rain forest, the brakes have given out etc.
The canvas got repaired by a local bloke and a patch was done as well as new eyelets on the side where I access the fridge in the back with new shock cord.
While the canvas was off I though I would try and prolong the life of it.
I have tried a few spray on water proofing compounds in the past......expensive and I dont know if it was effective.
I now am trying this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/712.jpg
It brushes or rolls on as a thick paste.........something like across between KY Gel and PVA wood glue.
I dries clear.
Time will tell if it works.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/713.jpg
4 litres cost 60 dollars

[101 Ron]

With my brakes I found the master cylinder leaking down the front of the booster and the RHS front wheel cylinders leaking.
So I am up for shoes, wheel cylinders and a master cylinder kit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1415.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1416.jpg

[101 Ron]

I also need to change my gas convertor for a better one I now have waiting and install a transfercase offset washer kit to try and stop it jumping out of high range every now and then.

[101RRS]

Poor 101,

My hood is in getting four rips repaired and some other work done. Then guy said the canvas was starting to go as it was no longer stiff - it has faded a lot due to the sun. While it is still waterproof, I think I will use something like you have got on mine - might also protect it a bit from sun damage.

The UK 101 people will say that due to a lack of parts you cannot rebuild 101 masters and need a modified series 3 one but I just put mine into the local brake place and it was back the following day and it has worked fine. So parts must be available.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

You can get the kits from the 101 club.
I heard all the seals were readily available except one.

[101 Ron]

I have a master cylinder kit which I got from AJ and it was cheap too..
( master cylinder is the same as a Jenson Intercepter )
The master cylinder only has Two seals which do any thing.
One is a quad ring which is nothing special and a normal type piston seal.
My master cylinder already has a stainless seleeve in it.
I will see if I can up grade the quad ring to a Viton one.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Are the 101's dual circuit braking systems?

[101 Ron]

They are dual circult.

[101RRS]

You can get the kits from the 101 club.
I heard all the seals were readily available except one.

For the modified series 3 MC which they also sell.

[101 Ron]

The master cylinder kit sold by AJ will cause the master cylinder to transfer fluid from one reservior to the other as the seal supplied is not up the the job.
It barely protudes enough to seal against the cylinder bore.
I have fitted a normal quad ring from a grab kit as this is what came out of my master cylinder and it gave no real problems.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/93.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/91.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/92.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/90.jpg
The quad ring is slightly thicker and protudes more.
You should just be able to see it in the above pics.

[101 Ron]

I though I would catch up on some maintance with my 101 .........get the old girl in shape for the trip to Corowa.
My over drive has been still leaking oil on longer highway high speed trips.
I end up with a film of oil over the back diff.
About three years ago I did a alloy cover over the lay shaft on the over drive, this reduced the problem.
Another source of leaks from the overdrive is the selector shaft.
It is open to the outside world at both ends of the shaft.
I have managed to replace the O rings on this shaft whisle still bolted to the vehicle.
I was originally removing the shaft to turn O ring grooves in it and found they did it during manufacture.
The O rings go hard with age......most overdrives are 30 years old.
The first pic shows the overdrive with the previous alloy cap in place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/653.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps1445079c.jpg.html)
This second pic show one end of the leaking selector shaft.

[URL=http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps15535f8a.jpg.html]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/654.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps15535f8a.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The next pic is general layout with floor plate removed.
Note steel plate with 4 bolts on the top of the overdrive.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/652.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zps1ea4562f.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

the next pic shows the overdrive with the plate removed.
Note the selector shaft running though the overdrive , the selector fork with a clamping bolt on the selector shaft and the small black hole to the bottom of the selector shaft in the alloy housing.
That small black hole has a allen grub screw which needs to be removed.(grub screw stops selector shaft from travelling too far)
Also remove the a clamping bolt from the selector shaft.
( don't drop or lose anything or your in deep trouble)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/649.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zpsff577027.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

pics showing allen head grub screw and selector fork clamping bolt removed.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/647.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zpsf1f860de.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/648.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zpsa32f081c.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Now the trick is using a screw driver though the end of selector shaft draw it out wards to the rear of the vehicle.
You Do Not Remove It Completely............only enough to fit new Orings.
If you remove the selector shaft or pull it back too far you will loose the detent spring and ball still pressing on the selector shaft.
moving it back just enough to install a New O ring on the shaft on the inside of the overdrive.( the detent ball ,spring and allen head plug comes up from the bottom of the overdrive housing out of sight)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/646.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps7d1000f9.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The O ring size is 012
If I had my way again I would have fitted quad rings for better sealing.
You reassemble without dropping anything in the overdrive.
Refit the allen head grub screw with a little bit of thread tape around it.
Do not Loctite it in.
I now hope my overdrive does not oil anymore oil.
Ron

[Homestar]

Thanks Ron, I'll add that one to my 'to do' list as well...:D

Might do that when I swap the gearbox over in the next few weeks.

[101 Ron]

I have been doing abit of catch up with the 101 lately ready for a few trips coming up.
I replaced the S hose/water pump bypass hose.
I have been putting it off as it is a pain to get at.
Better at home than on the side of the road.
The pic below shows the hose behind the water pump and to one side of the dist cap.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/154.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1174_zps68e94a2d.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/155.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1175_zps2fa58fd2.jpg.html)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/156.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1176_zpsde0ad6a4.jpg.html)

Note the gear stick support has been unbolted and swung over to one side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/157.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1177_zps2c487c35.jpg.html)

The previous posts in this thread about the overdrive oil leaks....well all is going well the leaks are fixed.
The centre diff lock has been giving me trouble and not wanting to enguage/lock.
I had this problem 2 years ago and replaced the vacuum diaphram
I checked things out again and another diaphram is gone.
When replacing these things you have to make sure you also replace a small O ring which sits in the housing between the housing and the vacuum diaphram unit.
I suspect the replacement diaphrams are not as good as the original.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/158.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1179_zps1e084ada.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/159.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/IMG_1178_zpse792b6de.jpg.html)

The other work I have been doing is chasing electrical problems which all have been traced to the fitting of wiring and relays in the fan tunnel and behind the grill.
The location is poor as wind driven water affects every thing.( the wiring is non standard)
It is a lot of work to relocate so I will have to live with it for now.
For something that is now over 35 years old and my only vehicle on full time rego it has been reliable and trouble free.
Access to most things is good in spite of it being COE.
I made the correct decision selling the defender 130 and keeping the 101.

[101RRS]

I did that S pipe a few years back - it is a real PITA and often gets overlooked because it is a pain.

I think you are right about the diaphrams - never not as good as the old - I have not had to do mine and it would have been in there for at least 15 years. Probably jinxed myself now.

How is the exhaust holding up? Also what about your canvas tilt - mine has finally gone - last time I was away I got dripped on and I can see out some very small holes.

Garry

[Sitec]

I made the correct decision selling the defender 130 and keeping the 101.

Yup, have to agree... Selling our 130 and buying the 101 was the correct decision for us too... SWMBO thought I was bonkers initially, but after the first trip with bags of power and no camp setup she was sold!!

[101 Ron]

I did that S pipe a few years back - it is a real PITA and often gets overlooked because it is a pain.

I think you are right about the diaphrams - never not as good as the old - I have not had to do mine and it would have been in there for at least 15 years. Probably jinxed myself now.

How is the exhaust holding up? Also what about your canvas tilt - mine has finally gone - last time I was away I got dripped on and I can see out some very small holes.

Garry

I think earlier in this thread is a bit about me using Dyna proof canvas treatment........it helps.
The main thing is my 101 stays under the carport.......the weather kills canvas and low tree branches on fire trails.
My canvas tilt is holding up very well for its age only some of the tensioning straps need replacing soon.
It has never leaked anywhere.
Exhaust is fixed with a manifold from AJ.........I have not had time to even think about trying to repair the old one.
Garry do you want to do a run......winter rallie is on this weekend ?.......may be too cold for you old blokes without canvas tops on the 101 ????

[Sitec]

A few hours Ron and Garry and you could both be at Wombat..... ;).. Think there's 7 101's going to be there so far....

[101RRS]

Garry do you want to do a run......winter rallie is on this weekend ?.......may be too cold for you old blokes without canvas tops on the 101 ????

Sorry - Rego runs out tomorrow and is not being renewed for a while - I need to do some work on it and it is just too expensive to have registered and not on the road.

Who you calling old :o.