Progress report.

[101 Ron]

I am starting this thread just to give small up dates on about our vehicles.
This weekend had me travelling to a friends place to get parts and return Nowra .....Wilton.
A lot of the way and up MTOusley I had a good pacing competition with a TDI200 Defender 110 and the 101 was up to the job on the flat and up the hills.
I think it is sorted as well as you can get a 101 with a stock motor.
Every time I push the old girl hard these days it plays havoc with the tail shafts.( and fuel burn)
This time the rear shaft shook its self loose bolt wise.( more new nyloc nuts . spring washers and loctite.)
The overdrive is spitting out oil from every place possible.
I am currently making a small alloy cover plate to fit over the end of the counter shaft on the overdrive to stop any movement of it and to stop the oil getting out pass the shaft which must have no O ring seal on it as made.
The bar threads are wearing fast at speed and on the tar.
The exhaust needs a new T junction in front of the muffler.
A nice curving Y junction would be better for flow , but not much room for it without a major design on atleast one pipe.
I am currently trying to up grade the electronic ignition system with a better Pertronix one which will be harder in get wet with a civi 12 volt dist.
One one wants to know about what fits what on Lucas distributors and is making it very hard.
We have a great reference of information here folks on Aulro.
Keep it up.
Garry how did you go with the tank.
Gazz hows the shockers coming along.

[101RRS]

Ron - I think it must be time for new driveshafts - or maybe you need to stop racing other landies on the highway. It will be interesting to see how mine hold up - they seem all nice and tight but time will tell. 10 years ago my 101 was at the tip of Cape York (found some paperwork) and was laid up soon after, so I assume my shafts have done some work and are still OK.

You should have left the ARB cover bright red.

I am not going to worry about the fuel filler for the moment - will see what happens next fuelling and deal with it then. The sender unit burnt out while I was playing around with it so it was pulled out and with a bit of solder and wire is now working again and reinstalled with new cork seals. The gauge still reads 1/4 full on empty and stays on full for half a tank - fixed that by bending the float arm a bit so now stays on full just a little and a black marking pen on the gauge to remove the empty mark (1/4 mark is now empty) and a bit of whiteout made the new empty mark heavier. I will have to get a new sender and gauge. I have ordered a backup fuel pump.

Was happily putting the gauges back in the dash and the illumination globe on the speedo shorted out and BBQd the illumination wiring and the panel light switch (where was the fuse). I have stripped back the wiring harness and will run new wiring - I have a spare switch. I have no idea why it shorted - later I am going to build a new dash binnacle so that access can be gained without having to pull everything apart. As is it is a design disaster.

Back to it - it ain't so cold today - a nice 7 degrees this morning.

Garry

[101 Ron]

My over drive is leaking oil from the back of the counter shaft.
The alloy end plate has been rotated 90 deg and ground away slightly, near the shaft.
Normally this plate partly covers the shaft to hold it into place and stop it rotating.
What has been happening is the shaft moves a bit and oil leaks between the shaft and alloy housing.
Note I have drilled and tapped four small holes around the shaft in the housing

[101 Ron]

I made this alloy cover for the shaft on the lathe at home.

[101 Ron]

It fits on like this

The hole in the centre of the plate lets out excess sealant and a centring hole for turning the thing up.

[101 Ron]

Sealant wiped away and plug in.
I took the vehicle for a drive today........it works.
No more leaks from the shaft.
The silly overdrive still leaks slightly from the gear shift shaft.
I may be able to fix that by taking the top off the overdrive and adding a O ring to the shaft.
That was not a option with the overdrive counter shaft as the it would have been a full strip down and why pull some thing apart if it is working well.

[101 Ron]

Ron - I think it must be time for new driveshafts - or maybe you need to stop racing other landies on the highway. It will be interesting to see how mine hold up - they seem all nice and tight but time will tell. 10 years ago my 101 was at the tip of Cape York (found some paperwork) and was laid up soon after, so I assume my shafts have done some work and are still OK.

You should have left the ARB cover bright red.



Garry

My tail shafts are OK.
I just have to stop racing other Landies with 5.57 to 1 diffs and high uni joint angles.

[Dave Jump]

Have you tried linking the overdrive breather to the transfer case breather? Think I read somewhere this helps stop them blowing oil out of everywhere.

[101 Ron]

The over drives fitted to the early range rovers and the same ones as used in the 101 is vented internally to the transfercase and shares the same oil .
It is the reason why they last longer than the ones used on the series landrovers.
It is a pity the series overdrives were not the same as with the lower power of the series motors they would have lasted for ever.

[101RRS]

Well I have been slowly working on getting my 101 ready fore rego - it is amazing how many little things pop up and how long they take to fix. I have sorted out all the electrics and they all work OK now - after about 4 weeks of work.

Since my 101 was released from the army, it spent most of its time in the far north of Australia where the heater was not needed. A previous owner pulled the heater out and installed a HF radio in the spot but to assist in engine cooling, the heater core was installed in the tunnel in front of the radiator so worked as an additional radiator. The ventilation fan was removed to make room.

I pulled all this out and while I am happy to drive a landie in a cold winter in Canberra, a heater will be required for rego. The heater core looks a bit dodgy so I decided to put in a combined A/C - heater under dash unit in instead of the original heater core that I had lying around. I had hoped to get it all rigged up today but it has been raining so only had a couple of hours. I did manage to get the unit in but not plumbed to the engine coolant.

Here are some pics




I cut some holes in the sides and this will take air to the demister vents - plastic spray can tops fit the front holes perfectly and will force air to the demister but even without them air still comes out the side vents. Later I will put the original fan and vent into the tunnel to force outside air into the cab and the underdash unit and put in proper vents nozzles on the front. As it is winter, I will just block the hole into the cab so no cold air comes inside.

Later I will install an A/C compressor and get the A/C side working.

This seems to be a good alternative to the original heater though the heater core I have is small by comparison. Certainly will not warm the whole truck but with a fume curtain in place should heat the cab OK.

With this heater all connected, all I need to do is adjust the brakes, put on the canvas hood and then try for rego.

Cheers

Garry