Thread: Progress report.

I have heat and a demister.

All connected up and actually throws out quite a bit of heat to both the cabin and windscreen. The roof comes off tomorrow and the canvas goes on, then just a few little things and that is it - hopefully.

I drove around the block a few times today with the engine warm and it pulls strongly - I need to sneak down to the garage to fill up with LPG.

Brakes are still a worry so I will adjust up again.

Garry

Started today doing some odd jobs like building a battery box for the 12v system and buying some screws and fittings to replace my missing camlocks until I can buy some. Started to remove the tin roof but as usual is a bit harder than it should be - as well as being bolted and riveted it is glued to the hood bows with that glue that is used to glue on car panels.

When cutting some of the supporting metal out a large bit fell and hit the angle grinder that had been turned off but still spining - the cutting disk hit my thumb joint and cut through to the bone - blood every where but is OK after I strapped it up.

I then needed to move the 101 off the drive from under my shade sails out into the open so I could climb up on top to grind off rivet heads. While getting into position a bit of forward and backwards was required and when moving from reverse to first - the gear lever came out of the top of the gearbox. I spent the rest of the day fixing that - the pin that hold the short stubby lever in the ball joint on top of the gearbox had broken - I found a drill bit that was a tight fit and used loctite to ensure it will not move.

I find it amazing how these little distractions keep on popping up but we are getting there.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

While getting into position a bit of forward and backwards was required and when moving from reverse to first - the gear lever came out of the top of the gearbox. I spent the rest of the day fixing that - the pin that hold the short stubby lever in the ball joint on top of the gearbox had broken - I found a drill bit that was a tight fit and used loctite to ensure it will not move.
Garry

Some pics - taken on my mobile phone in poor light - the Nokia is OK in the day but poor at night and in low light.




Garry

Garry .........the gods are not helping you.
I have been trying to improve my stop when I get the thing wet syndrome.
I fitted NGK high tension sparkplug lead ends to the spark plug end of the leads.
I have used these on motor bikes and they pretty much water proof that end of the leads.
P/N....VBF 8913.
I also removed the fan from the altenator to stop it picking up water and it throwing it on the dist and coil.
I dont think the altenator will over heat as it is a 55 amp unit and up to 120 amps is made with the same housing.
The altenator hangs down low in the air stream.(and water)( I have also killed one altenator though mud in the avatar pic)
It must be remembered my altenator position is at the bottom of the motor , instead of at the very top as per standard and my ignition system is non standard using a 12 volt points civie dist and a external electronic conversion box.

the red wire runs to the elctronic ignition box which is mounted up near the ignition coil.

Looking side on the the alt from underneath.( fan on altenator yet removed )

Ron your alternator is where my secondary 12v alternator is but I still have the full on waterproof 24v system but I do not know how waterproof it is.

Your alternator is down in the airflow so I do not think you will have an over heating problem. I appreciate this comment will not be all that helpful but even if the electrics do get splashed the ignition should not falter but I know that is easier said than fixed.

Have you thought about a couple of home made rubber splash guards that will deflect the water away from crucial parts.

Garry

The tin roof is now gone.

First up this morning


Mid morning


Mid afternoon in the rain


The top is in really good condition but it has not been on a 101 in a long time and has shrunk a little. The front fits all OK but at the rear it needs a bit more stretching - I guess a good drive will stretch it a bit. I am not quite sure how it all goes together but we are getting there.

A pic of the cabin with the ventilation in place. Later I will put the original fan back in with its flap to allow airflow into the cabin - at the moment I just have the hole blanked off so the underdash unit is takes air from the cab. Likewise, later I will insert a T junction in the flexible pipe to provide ventilation to the foot wells.


Garry

My top is from Tarmore trim UK
It is a tight fit.
It is best to fit when dry as canvass shinks when wet.
I modded my top with elastic shock cord all round to help access the sides quickly.
The shock cord helps keep every thing in place as the rope that was originally used will work loose whisle driving .

The shock cord is very hard to feed though the canvass.
I use the fume curtain inside my 101 as I find it much easier to heat the cabin.
The fume curtain also does stop exhaust fumes from reaching the driver.
The fume curtain removed makes inside the vehicle much larger.
I fitted a extra eye let on the passengers side near the door to try and stop the canvass pulling back away fro the door channel.
Most draughts comes from just behind the doors.
The back lets in very little dust when done up correctly.
I use shock cord on a extra hook here too to keep the canvass tight and pulled backwards as well.
My jerry cans on the back restrict acess to the rear hooks for the canvass,