Where do I get parts

[matpoli]

Hey guys I have just inherited an X army recon Series II from my father and his brother and I am loving it. With the top off the girls in biknins just want to get in.

So far I have had the non genuine stromberg carby recond, have had to replace the valve springs, replaced the radiator, put new door seals on, replaced the hose that goes to the oil gauge, replaced a wire in the dizzy, added driving lights so now i need an alternator, lol.

I have replaced the tarp roof and replaced the exhaust gasket. Replaced the headlights as well but I love it to death and my mates all want one even though i get a headache whenever I drive it:)

What is still left is to replace is


the bushes front and back that the springs hinge on, I heard they are a pain
The oil/temp gauge needs replacing
the tie rod ends for the steering need replacing
I want to fit free wheeling hubs as well.

So my question is, where can I get the bulleted items please, will any auto shop sell the bushes/tie rod ends, will i need a specialist shop for the gauge?

Any comments are welcome, I want to get it going as well as I can, I have already had it on the Gnagarra powerlines track and I want to take it on the Mundaring/York track as well, Oh I'm in WA guys.

Thanks,
Mat

[d@rk51d3]

Welcome aboard, and congratulations. :cool:


Most parts come up fairly regularly on E-bay, except the dual gauge. You should be able to get it restored though, there are a few guys around that do that sort of thing.

Your local auto-pro, sprint, etc. should be able to sorce the tie rod ends fairly easily, although E-bay has them alot of the time.


Have fun.

[Andwoo]

G'day mate, my series 2 project is now almost finished! I tried replacing the leaf spring bushes but ended up buying new springs:p
Such a pain! I found ebay was pretty good but i got almost all of my parts
from a place here in victoria Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts (http://www.fwd.com.au/)
They are not the closest to you i know but they have a parts catalogue to die for.

[Shonky]

If you are going to buy stuff from the eastern states, you would be well advised to use either Land Vehicle Spares or All FourX4 in NSW. ;)

[JDNSW]

I agree with Shonky - I buy parts on occasion from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne - they have a good catalogue, and excellent delivery. And their prices are cheap. But this is the problem. Many of their parts are the cheapest available, and quality to match, which is fine if that is what you are after!

But if you want to know you are getting quality parts try one of the others.

John

[Phoenix]

Welcome to AULRO, any chance you can tell us the chassis number of your command recon for REMLR ??

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hey guys I have just inherited an X army recon Series II from my father and his brother and I am loving it. ...
... What is still left is to replace is the bushes front and back that the springs hinge on, I heard they are a pain
The oil/temp gauge needs replacing
the tie rod ends for the steering need replacing
I want to fit free wheeling hubs as well.Thanks,
MatMat

Congrats on the acquisition!

In regards to your list. I use All 4 X four in Kotara NSW or Land Vehicle Spares and avoid the mob in Blackburn South but you are in WA so there may be someone closer to you ask Chazza or someone else locally.

1/ The chassis bushes you may have to burn out the rubber with a propane torch then cut the shell out with a hack saw. Make sure you grease the pin well when you re-fit.
2/ They are still available from a lot of places. Try John Craddocks or Dunsfold's in the UK.
3/ Make sure that the tie rod ends you get have the un-threaded shoulder (see below).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/07/570.jpg

Many parts suppliers will tell you that the ones with the thread all the way along are suitable for all Series Land Rovers from 1948 through 1982. This is incorrect and fitting the completely threaded ones to a Series 1 or series 2/2a is both unsafe and illegal. You can get the shouldered ones from All 4 X Four upon request.
4/ I would/will not fit freewheeling hubs. There are as many disadvantages as there are advantages. Do an AuLRO search on freewheeling hubs and make a decision.

Diana

[JDNSW]

..........
Many parts suppliers will tell you that the ones with the thread all the way along are suitable for all Series Land Rovers from 1948 through 1982. This is incorrect and fitting the completely threaded ones to a Series 1 or series 2/2a is both unsafe and illegal. You can get the shouldered ones from All 4 X Four upon request.
4/ I would/will not fit freewheeling hubs. There are as many disadvantages as there are advantages. Do an AuLRO search on freewheeling hubs and make a decision.

Diana

I agree entirely with Diana on this but would caution that you must also check the tube they are screwing into to make sure that it is the correct one for the tierod end. Using one with the clamped bit threaded on one bit and smooth on the other (either way) is unsafe and has resulted in fatal accidents.

I would probably not bother with freewheeling hubs - despite the fact I have them on my 2a; they are rarely disengaged. Driving for extended periods with free wheeling hubs disengaged will lead to a variety of problems with the swivels and possibly the diff and drive shaft. I have been unable to measure any difference to fuel consumption with them, and there is no subjective change in performance or noise/vibration. (I paid $15 for mine, complete with a chassis and bulkhead plus front and rear axles/ springs, so I have lost little!)

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I agree entirely with Diana on this but would caution that you must also check the tube they are screwing into to make sure that it is the correct one for the tierod end. Using one with the clamped bit threaded on one bit and smooth on the other (either way) is unsafe and has resulted in fatal accidents.

I would probably not bother with freewheeling hubs - despite the fact I have them on my 2a; they are rarely disengaged. Driving for extended periods with free wheeling hubs disengaged will lead to a variety of problems with the swivels and possibly the diff and drive shaft. I have been unable to measure any difference to fuel consumption with them, and there is no subjective change in performance or noise/vibration. (I paid $15 for mine, complete with a chassis and bulkhead plus front and rear axles/ springs, so I have lost little!)

JohnYes that's correct John, as you know the shouldered tie rod ends and steering links were the original equipment on the Series 2, so if they are not present (like the strongberg carby) then the vehicle is a hybrid and care always has to be taken when replacing bits.

The F/W hub issue is the subject of a number of threads, I personally do not use them and in fact remove F/W hubs from vehicles upon purchase. So the matter is very much a personal preference but the choice should be made after reading ALL sides of the issue, not just because someone's mate suggests them or not.

Diana

[gromit]

Matpoli,

Re: spring bushes
You will need some way of drawing the old bushes out and the new bushes in. I cut the rubber using a hacksaw and then cut through the outer part of the bush to allow it to be drawn out with the tool shown in the attached link.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/46683-getting-series-1-ready-cooma.html

Bushes were from Four Wheel Drives, reasonably priced from memory. PM your email address and I can send a .pdf of their catalogue.


Colin

[matpoli]

Wow guys I never expected so many responses so quickly, I really appreciate the time and effort each of you has contributed.

I will definitely check out the sites that you mentioned for the parts and in relation to the hubs i'll use the old adage if it ain't broken don't fix it, it runs great now so i'll leave them and it'll save me money as well.

As to the chasis number I got this off the plate in my vehicle but my old man works for the dept of transport in WA and he did mention that the army may have grabed a whole lot of plates and just fitted them to the vehicles and mine didn't actually match the number on the chasis.

This is what I have but if i find that it is different i'll let you know

Truck Command Recon
Chassis 143900525
Contract no C104337
Date 16-12-58

Thanks again, and now i'll try and serach for the chasis number :)

[matpoli]

Oh and in relation to the tierod ends mine is fitted with the shouldered ones, I found this out sliding under the car trying to find the chassis number :)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Chassis number should be on left hand rear spring hanger i'm pertty sure
Lovely looking Com\Recon!
Cheers,
Mark

[JDNSW]

Chassis number should be on left hand rear spring hanger i'm pertty sure
Lovely looking Com\Recon!
Cheers,
Mark

Yes. Should be on the flat bit facing out above the pivot of the shackle at the rear of the LH rear spring. It is likely to need cleaning up and removing a lot of paint layers before you can read it!

John

[matpoli]

OK got it

Chassis number is different - 143900471

That is the number exactly where you guys and my old man said it would be.

Type: Land Rover43Model: Land Rover, Series II
Body type: Basic
Wheel base: 88in (Short Wheel Base, SWB )
Engine: Petrol
Destination: Right-hand drive (RHD), completely knocked down (CKD)9Model year: 195900471Serial number

[matpoli]

Oh and thanks for all the positive comments.

My old man had this car from before I was born and him and his brother used it every now and then to go fishing.

It was laways promised to me as a child but I never thought I would really end up with it.

Now that I have it I love it to death and I see them more and more on the streets, good on you guys for keeping them running :)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

OK got it

Chassis number is different - 143900471

It may be a different chassis to the number on the body but it is still a Command Recon.

Chassis: ARN: 111-136 88" 1959 . Series 2 c6005 Engine:151909355 Chassis:143900471
Body: ARN: 111-196 88" 1959 . Series 2 c6005 Engine:151909717 Chassis(body):143900525

Diana

[digger]

MATPOLI,

Nice fleet mate!

check out the info on REMLR, and reference pictures.. Ref pics index -www.remlr.com (http://www.remlr.com/index_ref_pics.html)

there are pics of a CR brand new!!

the CRs were the first lot of landys the army bought en masse!

you need to fill in this form, it will register you with REMLR (its free!)

http://www.remlr.com/remlrform.htm

Think hard before you make too many changes, a reasonably original
exmil landy is a thing of beauty....(in a manly way!):D

congrats.... have you got a name for your car


digger

[matpoli]

Thanks for the form Digger, once filled out do i e-mail it somewhere?

No name for it yet, just "the Landy" like every other owner i reckon.

And Diana that was some great digging, you found the engine number before I did, i checked the license plates and you were spot on.

thx again

night guys

[digger]

Thanks for the form Digger, once filled out do i e-mail it somewhere?

No name for it yet, just "the Landy" like every other owner i reckon.

And Diana that was some great digging, you found the engine number before I did, i checked the license plates and you were spot on.

thx again

night guys

Mate, pop over to here The Notice Board -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/remlrforum.html) (REMLR FORUM)
and look up PHEONIX (the heartbeat of REMLR) and send it off...

then you get your own, one of a kind limited edition REMLR member number!!
(Cool huh!)

cheers...
digger..

(about names... check out the thread by SHONKY on "AMBROSE" the
way he got the name was great...and I see potential for you naming your
'beastie' the same sort of way!)

have a good one

[Blknight.aus]

DONT fit free wheeling hubs.

the easy way of getting the bushes out is with a 3mm drill and an air chisel.

drill the rubber out (be patient and work from both sides) and drift out or use the air chisel to push the center out then fit a "V" chisel to the air chisel and have at the outer casing it will either drift out OR the chisel will peel up a layer and then either drift it out or cut the strip out for the entire length.

if it goes that way punch the ends up with a drift and go again with the chisel.

[matpoli]

Thanks to digger for the info on RMLR, I sent off an e-mail to phoenix so he should get my sheet and a few photos as well.

Thanks blknight.aus for your input, i'm printing all this information out so i can refer to it later. I have definitely decided not to get the hubs now. I'll be getting the tierod ends sometime this week and i'll look into the bushes as well as they are very worn and have a quite a bit of movement. Also I was told i need to replace this but I can't remember the name of it.

and also this is at the front of my car and I was told it had a bit of play in it.

I have included a photo of the chassis number in case someone else is trying to find theirs.

And a photo of my beast. Oh yeah, i just learned how to post photos :)

I'm off now to try and fins info on what Command Recon actually did thx to all :)