Discovery 3 LED trailer lights

[Tombie]

Ranger still run the resistive cable. At least all the new ones on site do.

The issue is there is no standard for lighting that is followed. If you run LED indicators you can draw significantly different currents depending on how many emitters and what type. Then running the industry standard filament bulb adds another level of complexity.

The VW update has formed a work around - which isn't a bad idea, by loading up using Parker circuit to provide a reference draw from the vehicle and trailer. Clever mod. But if you forget to turn the lights on (many just run auto) you have no functionality either.

Note: The anti-sway function remains intact without the trailer detected.

[BMKal]

I certainly don't see the current setup as an "issue".

When I have my garden trailer (with LED lights) hooked up -

The reversing beeper goes off when I am in reverse (so what, I don't spend that much time in reverse anyway), and

My trailer light indicators on the dash don't illuminate. I always check that my trailer lights are all working when I hook up anyway, so this is hardly a concern.

As Tombie has said, the anti-sway function works regardless of whether a trailer electrical circuit is detected or not, so no problem there either.

And I'm not that old yet that I'll drive down the road and forget that I've got a trailer attached if I haven got a light on the dash to remind me it's there. :p:p:p

[RoverLander]

Just checking... So does a MY15 D4 still need to use the pulse buster? I have one from my 2010 D4. I was just hoping to be able to ditch it when i went to a newer model?

Peter

[Tombie]

Just checking... So does a MY15 D4 still need to use the pulse buster? I have one from my 2010 D4. I was just hoping to be able to ditch it when i went to a newer model?

Peter

I'd hold onto it :)

[bennvdmwhk]

Thanks for the great info in this thread.

I need to add Relays & resistors to my 2007 Disco3 V8, as doing 1st towing trip with my dad's new Bushlapa offroad caravan that has LED's fitted as standard, to Etosha in last week of April.

I could only find 18 Ohm 10w aluminium encapsulated resistors locally, but will use 2x in parallel to get 9 Ohm & 20w per relay. Ebay nowadays takes over 40 days to Namibia, so can't wait that long for the LR12 resistors.

I see most recommend 25w, so will have to see. Worse case I will have to add another for 3x in parallel.

[ScottD4]

Guys I have a MY14 D4 and can confirm after towing out LED caravan that this is still an issue.

However after travelling a distance with the van I've realised I don't care, just like others who have posted. When I put it in reverse I just turn the sensors off, big deal.

And the indicators don't illuminate on the dash? Who cares. Check your trailer lights when connecting.

Go and spend the money on some better mods for your Disco or trailer instead I reckon.

[Boggs]

Guys I have a MY14 D4 and can confirm after towing out LED caravan that this is still an issue.

However after travelling a distance with the van I've realised I don't care, just like others who have posted. When I put it in reverse I just turn the sensors off, big deal.

And the indicators don't illuminate on the dash? Who cares. Check your trailer lights when connecting.

Go and spend the money on some better mods for your Disco or trailer instead I reckon.


I suppose the only thing that stands out in this whole debate is: "If Land Rover are so cutting edge.. why is this an issue.. LEDs are pretty much the standard for trailers, vans etc. and have been for a few years." I'd probably rate this on a par with their crap navigation system.

[LandyAndy]

After using my D4 for towing 1 tonne loads last weekend and today,I see there is an important reason for the D4 to know it has a trailer onboard.The gearbox changes its shift points to keep the engine in its peak torque band.
Makes it quite spirited!!!!
If you select off-road it tells you the height wont automatically rise.
Andrew

[slug_burner]

Guys I have a MY14 D4 and can confirm after towing out LED caravan that this is still an issue.

However after travelling a distance with the van I've realised I don't care, just like others who have posted. When I put it in reverse I just turn the sensors off, big deal.

And the indicators don't illuminate on the dash? Who cares. Check your trailer lights when connecting.

Go and spend the money on some better mods for your Disco or trailer instead I reckon.

Get someone to follow you as you drive along. I have seen trucks that continuously flash their trailer lights as they test for the presence of the bulbs/trailer. Hopefully your vehicle is not doing the same thing.

[sniegy]

I suppose the only thing that stands out in this whole debate is: "If Land Rover are so cutting edge.. why is this an issue.. LEDs are pretty much the standard for trailers, vans etc. and have been for a few years." I'd probably rate this on a par with their crap navigation system.

It is NOT "An Issue", It is a minor inconvenience.:angel:
All the European manufacturers have the same issue (BMW, Porsch'e, Mercedes Benz, Audi, VW, Ford) Its all to do with vehicle checks & monitoring of the electrical system. The only downside is if you tow a Van with LED's.
Simple fix, fit a resistive load or buy a ready made unit from many of the people before mentioned in other posts.

It is also a good idea to fit either as the vehicle will have all its electronic trickery working correctly,
Yes you can ignore the reverse sensors, ignore the Tell Tale when using the indicators, But would definitely want it working correctly for the Trailer Assist program.

Cheers

[ScottD4]

It is NOT "An Issue", It is a minor inconvenience.:angel:
All the European manufacturers have the same issue (BMW, Porsch'e, Mercedes Benz, Audi, VW, Ford) Its all to do with vehicle checks & monitoring of the electrical system. The only downside is if you tow a Van with LED's.
Simple fix, fit a resistive load or buy a ready made unit from many of the people before mentioned in other posts.

It is also a good idea to fit either as the vehicle will have all its electronic trickery working correctly,
Yes you can ignore the reverse sensors, ignore the Tell Tale when using the indicators, But would definitely want it working correctly for the Trailer Assist program.

Cheers

If all the manufacturers know about it, and we are spending at least $80k on a new car, why can't Land Rover address the 'minor inconvenience' then?

It would be interesting to see the percentage of trailers that are now LED.

[Boggs]

It is NOT "An Issue", It is a minor inconvenience.:angel:
All the European manufacturers have the same issue (BMW, Porsch'e, Mercedes Benz, Audi, VW, Ford) Its all to do with vehicle checks & monitoring of the electrical system. The only downside is if you tow a Van with LED's.
Simple fix, fit a resistive load or buy a ready made unit from many of the people before mentioned in other posts.

It is also a good idea to fit either as the vehicle will have all its electronic trickery working correctly,
Yes you can ignore the reverse sensors, ignore the Tell Tale when using the indicators, But would definitely want it working correctly for the Trailer Assist program.
Cheers


Not having stability control working a "minor inconvenience", I wonder what a coroner would think?

[rufusking]

The vehicles haven't changed, the trailer lights have. Isn't it the manufacturers of the trailer lights that need to maintain compatibility with there previous product, the filament globe?

[Basil135]

I suppose the only thing that stands out in this whole debate is: "If Land Rover are so cutting edge.. why is this an issue.. LEDs are pretty much the standard for trailers, vans etc. and have been for a few years." I'd probably rate this on a par with their crap navigation system.

Without taking this thread too far off track, I have never understood what peoples issues are with the navigation system.

Mine has never failed, and has always gotten me to where I wanted to go.

Just for fun, I have even entered a Lat / Long into the system, to see what would happen, rather than a street address. Works perfectly.



As for the trailer lights, I built a box to fit between the trailer plug & car, containing the resistors. Would have taken a whole hour or so, and that is with the pup helping like he does. He likes to relocate the tool that I am about to use. ;)

People are calling it an "issue" and other words, but as far as I am concerned, it isn't even an inconvinience. I still have to connect the trailer & plug it in. I still check the brake lights etc, so what is the problem?

I currently have 3 trailers & only 1 box. One day I will get around to making a couple more, but until then, I just move it to the trailer that I am using at the time. No more work than actually hooking up the trailer.

[Boggs]

Basil, my problem with the navigation system is the quality/cost of the maps.. as I have previously stated on another string..
$300 for an update is outrageous when you can buy a Garmin with free lifetime updates for less than $200. And its more accurate.
My street is not on the latest update even though it is a bitumen, gazetted road that has been so for at least 10 years. Likewise many other similar roads. If other GPS companies can get it right why can't the suppliers of maps to Land Rover?
As I have the HSE with the "off-road mapping" one would also expect a reasonable standard of detail for bush roads, at least the more significant ones that are on tourist maps.. no.. so often the Land Rover screen shows me driving through white void, while my $200 Garmin with street maps shows them .. even most major forestry tracks.
The D4 is a brilliant vehicle but this sort of rubbish just encourages its critics to look on them as a Toorak Tractor or Wilmslow Panzer as the poms would say.

[Tombie]

Not having stability control working a "minor inconvenience", I wonder what a coroner would think?


Stability control still functions - trailer assist is a different set of capabilities- the trailer does not need to be plugged in for stability control to work.

[ScottD4]

Without taking this thread too far off track, I have never understood what peoples issues are with the navigation system.

Mine has never failed, and has always gotten me to where I wanted to go.

Just for fun, I have even entered a Lat / Long into the system, to see what would happen, rather than a street address. Works perfectly.



As for the trailer lights, I built a box to fit between the trailer plug & car, containing the resistors. Would have taken a whole hour or so, and that is with the pup helping like he does. He likes to relocate the tool that I am about to use. ;)

People are calling it an "issue" and other words, but as far as I am concerned, it isn't even an inconvinience. I still have to connect the trailer & plug it in. I still check the brake lights etc, so what is the problem?

I currently have 3 trailers & only 1 box. One day I will get around to making a couple more, but until then, I just move it to the trailer that I am using at the time. No more work than actually hooking up the trailer.

But something that's simple for you (wiring up the box with the resistors in it) is very complex for others. Me included.

Should I pay the exorbitant prices to buy a module? Perhaps. But as long as sway control works I don't really need it.

[LandyAndy]

But something that's simple for you (wiring up the box with the resistors in it) is very complex for others. Me included.

Should I pay the exorbitant prices to buy a module? Perhaps. But as long as sway control works I don't really need it.

Scott.
I suggest you trick the system with a simple light bulb temp wired into the caravan plug then see the difference towing.I have only been carting 1 tonne loads of firewood,the difference in the gear shifting is VERY noticeable and for the better too.Completely different vehicle to drive,and I would say for the better whilst towing.Worth the experiment then decide how to go about trailer recognition.There are posts on 21W load bars that can be wired into the van wiring.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Scott.
I just re-read you post to Basil,you arent able to mess with electricery,no issue.
I can tell you 1 21w load bar(resistor) on 1 indicator circuit on the van will activate the system.So its just a matter of visiting the local auto elec and asking for a price to wire one into the van,if you want both indicators to flash on the dash ask for a price to fit one to each indicator circuit.
How I know this.Our old garden trailer hasnt been used for ages,when I plugged it in only 1 indicator out of all the lights worked:(:(:(:(.I didnt bother fixing them as I was only traveling back tracks.The reverse beepers were deleted,only got the trailer symbol with the LHS indicator.When selecting rock crawl on the farm where I was getting the firewood the dash said auto height lift disabled because of the trailer,had to manually lift.
Andrew

[Basil135]

But something that's simple for you (wiring up the box with the resistors in it) is very complex for others. Me included.

Should I pay the exorbitant prices to buy a module? Perhaps. But as long as sway control works I don't really need it.

You are correct, that you don't "need" it.

But as Landyandy points out, it does change the shift points of the transmission. Maybe not noticeable doing the tip run in a 6 x 4, but if you start pulling heavy loads, you will appreciate it.

Maybe I should offer a service to make some for people.... will have a think over Easter. :D

[ScottD4]

You are correct, that you don't "need" it.

But as Landyandy points out, it does change the shift points of the transmission. Maybe not noticeable doing the tip run in a 6 x 4, but if you start pulling heavy loads, you will appreciate it.

Maybe I should offer a service to make some for people.... will have a think over Easter. :D

No doubt if there was a clear set of instructions (i.e. clear to a complete novice) I could probably do it.

But saying, "just wire one up" is unfortunately not an option for me. Basically I wear a white collar to work every day.

If you could make something that wasn't the price of the commercial units for sale I would be interested.

[Redback]

I suppose the only thing that stands out in this whole debate is: "If Land Rover are so cutting edge.. why is this an issue.. LEDs are pretty much the standard for trailers, vans etc. and have been for a few years." I'd probably rate this on a par with their crap navigation system.

All modern vehicles have this issue with LEDs on trailers, not just Land Rover, Prado, 200 series, the new Y62 Patrol, VW, BMW and the list goes on, from what I've heard.

AND at the risk of reposting, look at this everyone.

Listen carefully from the 39sec mark;)
https://youtu.be/5gyc4Dmgbew

Baz.

[discotwinturbo]

All modern vehicles have this issue with LEDs on trailers, not just Land Rover, Prado, 200 series, the new Y62 Patrol, VW, BMW and the list goes on, from what I've heard. AND at the risk of reposting, look at this everyone. Listen carefully from the 39sec mark;) Video Link: https://youtu.be/5gyc4Dmgbew (https://youtu.be/5gyc4Dmgbew) Baz.

Baz, no issue with leds on trailers with the 200. Best mates perfectly fine with his 3 led fitted trailers.

I had a problem about 5 years ago with my Touareg....software written to fix that, and since then no issues at all.

It can be fixed but obviously not a priority for LR to do so.

Brett...

[Redback]

Baz, no issue with leds on trailers with the 200. Best mates perfectly fine with his 3 led fitted trailers.

I had a problem about 5 years ago with my Touareg....software written to fix that, and since then no issues at all.

It can be fixed but obviously not a priority for LR to do so.

Brett...

Some bloke on another forum was whinging about his Prado and he mentioned his mate with a 200 had the same issue, maybe the early ones had the issue and Toyota fixed it.

It's not a big deal on the D4 really, I've towed a trailer with LEDs, just turned the headlights on and all good, I don't have to worry about parking sensors, we had ours turned off and the trailer symbol not working is no big deal.

Baz.

[Ferret]

Sorry if it was stated before but i didnt read that whole huge thread but there is a simple and quite cheap fix for that problem now: NARVA LED Load Resistor 12V 21W - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/NARVA-LED-Load-Resistor-12V-21W.aspx?pid=287170#Recommendations)


Sorry if it was stated before but i didnt read that whole huge thread but there is a simple and quite cheap fix for that problem now: NARVA LED Load Resistor 12V 21W - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/NARVA-LED-Load-Resistor-12V-21W.aspx?pid=287170#Recommendations)

If you had read the thread you would know that a simple resistor doesn't fix the issue. The trailer lights will still flicker/flash like a christmas tree

I apologise that i didnt read it all but it fixed the issue on my D2, my brother's RRS and a friend's D3(no D4's around me), so did for the guy at page 24 post #232 too... also i can't imagine why a dedicated and especially calibrated resistor wouldn't fix it as long as it emulates the bulb which was there, for the system it's a simple current draw issue and the current with that resistor is the same like with the original bulb... there might be some exceptions but IMO on those the problem is something else


If you had read the thread you would know that a simple resistor doesn't fix the issue. The trailer lights will still flicker/flash like a christmas tree

D4
A simple 10-15$ resistor wired in parallel with a single LED indicator light on the trailer will fix all issues.

D3
The simple resister fix will address some of the issues but is not a complete fix. A 'pulse buster' or similar device involving relays is required.

Do we really need another thread on this?

[shamirj]

hi all,

really struggling with the wiring diagrams and trying to connect the two led resistors and two relays with wiring on trailer but cannot seem to work it out. is the ground pin 85 white wire the earth ?

i have a 4 pin relay, 87 pin to led lights, not sure how to use 86 and 30 up. 86 is switch and 30 + battery but which colours are these on the typical trailer wires, there is no + battery or switch wire is there ?

spent good amount of time on these and cannot get it to work, to suit D3.
Any help much appreciated. thx

[rambada]

OK, gotta ask as Im a klutz. When wiring the Narva LED load resistor, I connect one end to either indicator wire and the other end to earth to create a parallel circuit?

[SBD4]

OK, gotta ask as Im a klutz. When wiring the Narva LED load resistor, I connect one end to either indicator wire and the other end to earth to create a parallel circuit?
Correct!

[carlschmid2002]

OK, gotta ask as Im a klutz. When wiring the Narva LED load resistor, I connect one end to either indicator wire and the other end to earth to create a parallel circuit?

Just bought one of these last night. I am trying to avoid paying $180 on eBay for the plug set up. I didn't tick the LED box when ordering my trailer but it still came with LEDs.

[worane]

Of course you could change out the lights on the rear of the trailer back to the older lamps!

[StevieB]

Here's my LED light box build:
After building it I realised it could have been a fair bit smaller! If I had to do it again it would be a little different (eg, lead to large round socket would have been better), but works fine all the same..... :)

I got the board and relays from Jaycar ($20), but was surprised they didn't have the others... I got the resistors off ebay ($10) and the plug/socket from supercheap ($10 each), total $50 for parts!! (more than I'd expected, so decided to use some random wire I have rather than paying crazy money for trailer cable).

The Parts:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/62.jpg

I decided to chop up the plug/sockets to neaten up the box, mounted the resistors and relays, and used my way-too-big soldering iron to make a mess of the soldering..... Still, it all tested up ok! (note the violet coloured wire should be brown - budget wouldn't stretch that far!!)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/63.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/64.jpg

Time to build a box! ...so knocked up something in SolidWorks:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/65.jpg

...then load it into the 3D printer:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/66.jpg

Final Assembly:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/67.jpg

A lick of paint, and I have something that the damn D3 recognises as a trailer!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/68.jpg

Thank you so much for this. Job well done!! :-)

Quick question though, as I understand it the D4 does not require the relays? As it's only the D3 that sends a pulse down the line??

Therefore, the D4 would only require the 6 Ohm 50Watt resistors??

Good work!

Thanks again

Stevie B
Akl, NZ

[strydes]

Shameless cross promotion here but if anyone is reading this thread looking for an adapter box to run their LED trailer lights I've got one for sale here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-comms-equipment-sale/230350-linear-electronics-led-adapter-perth-wa.html).

Hope this is allowed, if not, mods please feel free to delete.

[happydad59]

Today I confirmed that the D4 does not need relays and only needs one 0.47 ohm resistor (from Jaycar) that I insulated wires and screwed directly into earth and one indicator inside the 7 pin flat plug. Car no longer beeps when reversing trailer so I assume all the other trailer functions are also enabled. One trick, it is only recognised when you start the car, so plugging in trailer when car is going still results in beeping!

[catch-22]

G'day happydad,

How would you go about confirming if the other functions such as the gearbox map and tow functions are working? If it does all that then is it really as simple as placing a .47ohm res for both (so you get the light on the dash) indicator circuits?

Cheers

[catch-22]

With the resistor, I wonder if you can get a casing and simply place it in that for the heat and run it along, with sufficient insulation, the camper trailers wiring loom??

[Basil135]

Just so we don't go over old ground again:

You only NEED 1 resistor for the car to recognise there is a trailer attached, and for the functions to work.

Adding a second resistor has the benefit of giving the indication on the dash, regardless of which way you are turning.

The resistor (s) should be in a metal box, to absorb and dissipate the heat, although your indicators would have to be on for a long time for this to be an appreciable problem.

The D4 does NOT need relays. The D3 DOES need relays to stop the "pulsing" or "flickering" of the LED's.



Hope this helps to get all the info into one place.

[JamesAdelaide]

Hi Guys,

Sorry if question has already been asked, I have a MY16 D4 we are just kitting out.

The lights work fine on my box trailer (incandescent lights) and boat trailer LED lights.

The green "trailer attached" indicator on the dash only flickers ON when I indicate. Reverse sensors are disabled.

***Edit just spoke to PCB Landovers here in adelaide and they said this is actually the correct function - it is supposed to flash?***
***So it seems a Nov Build MY16 works fine from the factory?***

So do I need to bother with resistors?
I am not fussed about the icon, I just want to make sure the D$ knows a trailer is attached to activate sway control etc.

It just seems odd to me that the car knows a trailer is connected (reverse sensors disabled) but yet the dash indicator is not working.

Happy to fit resistors, and would prefer to fit to the vehicle, not trailer, I just want to clarify if it is really ok to use a non-heat-sink-.47 ohm jaycar resistor (as per happydad59's post) or if it is safer to just buy a narva heatsink style (6-9 ohms).

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers
James

[Grappler]

Today I confirmed that the D4 does not need relays and only needs one 0.47 ohm resistor (from Jaycar) that I insulated wires and screwed directly into earth and one indicator inside the 7 pin flat plug. Car no longer beeps when reversing trailer so I assume all the other trailer functions are also enabled. One trick, it is only recognised when you start the car, so plugging in trailer when car is going still results in beeping!

To replicate a 22W bulb on 12 volts you need a 6 ohm resistor drawing 2 amps. A 0.47 ohm resistor replicates 180W roughly at 12 volts drawing about 24 amps.

[Disco-tastic]

Hi guys.

Im looking at adapters as all the trailers i will tow have a flat plug.

Just wondering if the following adapter still needs a resistor box, or if the LED circuit tester function does the job?

http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/KT-Cables-Trailer-Adaptor-Flat-Plug-to-Large-Socket/131415

I'm not well versed on electrical things. :o

Cheers

Dan

[LRD414]

Just wondering if the following adapter still needs a resistor box, or if the LED circuit tester function does the job?
I'm thinking no Dan.
The LEDs mentioned on these adapters are intended to light up if there is a fault in individual wires (or perhaps not light up if there's a fault).
So nothing to do with the lack of resistance from LED lights on the trailer, which is why resistors are fitted by people in various ways.
Plus, if you have a D3 you also need the relays as summarised by Basil135 a couple of posts back in this thread.

Scott

[Disco-tastic]

Thanks Scott.

A further question. If i make or buy an adaptor that had the resistors, will it matter if i use a trailer with non-LED globes? Or is that to much load on the system?

Cheers

Dan

[Grasshoppr]

Thanks mods for keeping this thread up.
I must say, it wasn't til page 14, the penny dropped and the logic why I needed a relay, as I only wanted to modify my trailer, not the car.
I first put the resistors on each indicators which brought the dash trailer indicator up on left and right motions. Only still to get that flicky indicators flash when car is on.
The pulse is that quick, it has enough voltage rise to trigger the light emitting diode (LED).
With the relay in each right and left circuit, that pulse has not got enough voltage rise to energise a magnet coil. Thus, contacts that supply voltage to the LED dont close.
Turn the indicator ON, the magnetic coil energises closing relay contact. Magic LED works. With the resistor in parallel with the coil, my dash green tailor indicator works.
Only assuming that this tells the car electronics that a trailer is connected and transmission remapping takes place and the other stuff.
Cheers all for your inputs over the years on this one.
Has been a good read and debate.
Bruce

[matpoli]

What a load of stuffing about just to tow a trailer. I want to hire a caravan for use with my D3, does and all on one off the shelf solution exist yet?

[LRD414]

I want to hire a caravan for use with my D3, does and all on one off the shelf solution exist yet?
Plug-and-play solution for lights has been around for ages:
Linear Electronic Design | Buy Now (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/buy.html)

However a caravan may also require extras such as electric brakes, on-board fridge and house batteries. This will obviously depend on the van.

Cheers,
Scott

[matpoli]

Plug-and-play solution for lights has been around for ages:
Linear Electronic Design | Buy Now (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/buy.html)

However a caravan may also require extras such as electric brakes, on-board fridge and house batteries. This will obviously depend on the van.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks mate, so expensive.

[Fasn8n]

I've purchased a second had Liner Electronic LED unit from the forum and would like to hard wire it to my D4.

Has anyone got the installation instructions to be able to do this please?

[Tombie]

As long as its the version with the switch [emoji41]
In the PS rear is the loom for the trailer..
Trace the Left and Right Indicator wires to the plug and wire in behind that panel in the cargo area.

[Fasn8n]

As long as its the version with the switch [emoji41]
In the PS rear is the loom for the trailer..
Trace the Left and Right Indicator wires to the plug and wire in behind that panel in the cargo area.
It's not the version with a switch. I was considering removing the plugs on either end and hard wiring it to the car as well as putting a switch on the earth. Is this still possible given I've got the version that has plugs on both ends?

Do I only need to wire the L and R indicator wires only or all of the wires?

[duderduderini]

Hi all,
Here’s a diagram of the basic wiring to stop the pulsing on a LED trailer.
Simple and easy to make using either crimp connectors, soldering or fitting into a transportable box if needed.
Hi there could someone clarify the schematic wrt to relay terminal numbers
The circle that says "Plug" is that coming in from car?
The output from the relay the bit that goes from each relay to the LED light.. I assume thats out?
Just want to make sure I dont blow anything up
Thanks
Nick

[IndusD4]

Can anyone tell me how hot these 50w resistors become when using them just for the indicator lights? Reason for asking is that I thought it might be neat to hide them inside a silicon tube along with the rest of the wiring, separated from the resistor in a smaller silicon tube. I'd end up with a bit of trailer wire that looks like a snake having had it's dinner but I thought it would be pretty neat.

138420

This is a mock up, resistors are still in the post but one would go between the yellow indicator wire and the white earth, the other between the green indicator wire and earth. The clear tubing would be to insulate the 7 cores from the resistors. The whole thing would go inside a larger diameter tube.

I'm aware I only need a resistor on one of the indicators rather than 2, but this is just a mock up to check tube size etc.

Thanks
Ron

[IndusD4]

I've just re-read the whole thread and the answer is anywhere between "too hot to hold" and "up to 140C". That idea might need a re-think then, putting the resistor(s) in a tube might not get rid of the heat efficiently.

[Tombie]

Are you putting the relays in also?
If not you’ll still get the “twinkle”

[IndusD4]

I have a D4, I would only need a resistor so the car recognises the trailer. I've ordered a small metal box to house one resistor and will put this in the 7 pin round to 7 pin flat adaptor cable.

Ron

[Tombie]

That’s similar to how I build my Boxes.
I’ve got a heap of them pre built here with twin resistors, plugs and cable.

I build them in spare moments.

[garamm]

Thank you so much for this. Job well done!! :-)

Quick question though, as I understand it the D4 does not require the relays? As it's only the D3 that sends a pulse down the line??

Therefore, the D4 would only require the 6 Ohm 50Watt resistors??

Good work!

Thanks again

Stevie B
Akl, NZ
Is it possible to get a wiring diagram of this, showing where the wires are going and coming mainly on the relays,
Thanks, Gavin

[Blu ballz]

I can't seem to click on the link to get the wiring diagram. Can any one re post it or send and email please.

[davros]

I’m wondering how my Ranger issue is related - if it is... apologies non-landy but my trailer is sorta close!
I’ve got an ex-military No5 trailer that has a convoy light which is LED. The rest are standard incandescent.
I’ve wired the convoy as my reverse lamp and it works... but flickers at all other times, including when I shut down and remove key for about 10 mins. This is the same for the LED lamp in my canopy, where I utilised the former roll-bar wiring (except it’s steady there, no flicker).
No other lights flicker and I am using a Ford LED trailer adapter plug...
Obviously some check/CANBUS thing but what is the cheapest way to resolve?
I note if I remove all the incandescent bulbs in the trailer (brake, tail, indicators) the flickering stops...). The earth is good... All other lights function correctly...
Cheers,
Dave

[Bulletman]

I have recently purchased 1 of the haulmark military trailers PT 1.2 i think they are , anyway i want to make up the adaptor so i can use my D3 to tow it . I understand the diagram in post 16 and intend to use that as a template, but am jut curious if people who have made up these adaptors have mounted the load resisters seperate to the relays , OR , have mounted everything in a single waterproof type box.

Does anyone see an issue with mounting load resisters seperate on the chassis near the lights to remove the heat easier , or , is heat not so much of an issue in real world operating..

Thanks and cheers Bulletman

[Grappler]

I can't seem to click on the link to get the wiring diagram. Can any one re post it or send and email please.

Heres one

[Ferret]

Does anyone see an issue with mounting load resisters seperate on the chassis near the lights to remove the heat easier , or , is heat not so much of an issue in real world operating..

The resistors do heat and should be mounted sensibly to conduct heat away but in the course of normal operation (ie blinker operation to signify turning and then cancelled) they will not get overly hot. Where you might run into trouble with heat is where you turn hazard lights on and the blinkers are left flashing for long periods of times.

Mine reached 80c after 20 mins and then seamed to stabilise but of course the long term temperature depends very much on how you mount them.

[Tombie]

You can reduce this heat by using a 25w 6.8ohm resistor instead of the 50w units.

My next batch will be tested using these.

[XXVDisco]

Ok guys this post is probably up there for Dumbest post of the year, but bear with me please. [bighmmm][bighmmm]

After reading all 331 posts thee times, I'm not clear on one aspect or I've confused myself [bigwhistle]

I get that the load resistor connects one end to either indicator wire and the other end to earth to create a parallel circuit, but where in the circuit does it connect?


Before the indicator wire
After the indicator wire
Somewhere in the trailer plug wiring in the vehicle


Thanks in advance for any clarification

Cheers
John

[Tombie]

Branches off of the indicator circuit at any point prior to the LED assembly at the other end.

[XXVDisco]

Thanks Tombie, much appreciated

Cheers
John

[BradC]

Branches off of the indicator circuit at any point prior to the LED assembly at the other end.

Or after the LED assembly. The electrons don't give a **** as long as they have a road to travel on.

[loanrangie]

You can reduce this heat by using a 25w 6.8ohm resistor instead of the 50w units.

My next batch will be tested using these.

like these ?HSA256R8J | TE Connectivity | Panel Mount Fixed Resistors | RS (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/8077187?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!8733!3!434253231598!!!g!339601080385!&cm_mmc=AU-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_AU_EN_Passive_Components_Whoop-_-(AU:Whoop!)+Panel+Mount+Fixed+Resistors-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-339601080385&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)

[Tombie]

like these ?HSA256R8J | TE Connectivity | Panel Mount Fixed Resistors | RS (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/8077187?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!8733!3!434253231598!!!g!339601080385!&cm_mmc=AU-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_AU_EN_Passive_Components_Whoop-_-(AU:Whoop!)+Panel+Mount+Fixed+Resistors-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-339601080385&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)

Yep. Thats the next lot I'll be testing in my rig.

[twr7cx]

THe box pictured was built for a fellow member and is for a D3. I build D4 units also (very easy) and have made one for my D4 that fits internal and is hard wired and switched.

I’ve got a heap of them pre built here with twin resistors, plugs and cable.

I build them in spare moments.

My next batch will be tested using these.

Got any D4 setups for sale? I'd prefer one hardwired into the vehicle with a switch.

[Tombie]

Got any D4 setups for sale? I'd prefer one hardwired into the vehicle with a switch.

Heck. I best get busy [emoji41]

[gavinwibrow]

Originally Posted by loanrangie https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-d3-d4-sticky-zone/85396-discovery-3-led-trailer-lights-post3002603.html#post3002603) like these ?HSA256R8J | TE Connectivity | Panel Mount Fixed Resistors | RS (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/8077187?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!8733!3!434253231598!!!g!339601080385!&cm_mmc=AU-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_AU_EN_Passive_Components_Whoop-_-(AU:Whoop!)+Panel+Mount+Fixed+Resistors-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-339601080385&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI89OlyojO6QIVBFdgCh1bTwS-EAQYASABEgIoOvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)




Yep. Thats the next lot I'll be testing in my rig.


Just received a pair of these. Much smaller/ much less bulky than the original suggestions, so hopefully up to the job?

[Grappler]

You can reduce this heat by using a 25w 6.8ohm resistor instead of the 50w units.

My next batch will be tested using these.

Since the wattage rating of a resistor is its ability to handle the power of the circuit, using a lesser rated wattage resistor would produce more heat and would be more likely to fail.
Having said this the 25W resistor is adequate as 6.8ohm resistor draws about 1.9A at 13 volts. P=VA 24.7watts.
The resistor mimics a nominally 21watt turn indicator bulb

[Tombie]

Since the wattage rating of a resistor is its ability to handle the power of the circuit, using a lesser rated wattage resistor would produce more heat and would be more likely to fail.
Having said this the 25W resistor is adequate as 6.8ohm resistor draws about 1.9A at 13 volts. P=VA 24.7watts.
The resistor mimics a nominally 21watt turn indicator bulb

Correct. And as the system only needs ~15w to trigger, this should be more than adequate and far more compact to build.

[twr7cx]

Heck. I best get busy [emoji41]

That would be great, thanks.

[dirvine]

When it came to me wiring up my caravan which has 12 pin flat plug to work with the round plug of the D4, I just added one resistor to one indicator wire to the conversion lead. I read that people seem to think the resistor gets very hot. All I can say is mine is mounted to the flat plug on a "heat sink" of strip metal I found lying around. I am sure if the heat generated by this resistor gets as hot as people say on this post, then I would notice some melting of plastic. In have not. I can only assume that the resistor gets hot when its working, which is in reality only when the indicator light is activated. I would assume for it to get so hot it melted plastic it would have to be working for a considerable time, and a lot more than we usually have our indicators working. What I did notice once I attached the resistor, my car behaved quite differently in regards to gear changes, no reversing chimes etc. I was surprised as I would have thought the only time the car would know a van is attached is when the resistor doing its job.

[Ferret]

When it came to me wiring up my caravan which has 12 pin flat plug to work with the round plug of the D4, I just added one resistor to one indicator wire to the conversion lead. I read that people seem to think the resistor gets very hot. All I can say is mine is mounted to the flat plug on a "heat sink" of strip metal I found lying around. I am sure if the heat generated by this resistor gets as hot as people say on this post, then I would notice some melting of plastic. In have not. I can only assume that the resistor gets hot when its working, which is in reality only when the indicator light is activated. I would assume for it to get so hot it melted plastic it would have to be working for a considerable time, and a lot more than we usually have our indicators working. What I did notice once I attached the resistor, my car behaved quite differently in regards to gear changes, no reversing chimes etc. I was surprised as I would have thought the only time the car would know a van is attached is when the resistor doing its job.

You have a D4. This thread is related to the D3 and LED trailer lights. The D4 and the D3 behave differently. The D3 is continually pulses the trailer indicator lights. So if you had done what you say you did on a D3 your trailer LED lights would flicker and your resistors would be worked even though you have not activated your indicators. Since they are continuously being pulsed they would be heating also. How hot they might get I can't say but the point being on a D3 they are not worked only when the indicator light is activated as you have assumed, they are worked all the time.

People with D3's need to consider the difference between the D3 and the D4 with respect to the behaviour of load resistors and LED trailer lights.

[shanegtr]

I recently had the left hand circuit in my Liner electronics trailer module fail, so I rebuilt a whole new one, costs less than half the price of buying a replacement.

https://youtu.be/CcUZAX38Ar0

[Tombie]

I recently had the left hand circuit in my Liner electronics trailer module fail, so I rebuilt a whole new one, costs less than half the price of buying a replacement.

https://youtu.be/CcUZAX38Ar0

Nice vid bloke.

Easy to make aren’t they!

[Stuart02]

Unless you have some switches to disconnect the "Australian" socket the car will see the resistance and think there is a trailer attached all the time even when there isn't. This will affect car systems such as transmission changes and learning mode, stability control, off-road height (don't think you can select with trailer attached)

Is that true that off-road height can't be selected with a trailer attached (and recognised by the car - I've bought a Narva load resistor, but not sure where to hook it in to my Stockman Pod trailer which has such nice, tucked away wiring!)?

[Tombie]

Is that true that off-road height can't be selected with a trailer attached (and recognised by the car - I've bought a Narva load resistor, but not sure where to hook it in to my Stockman Pod trailer which has such nice, tucked away wiring!)?

No. The car won’t select offroad height automatically - so as not to throw a trailer bum down in the ground.

You can still manually select the lift.


You can wire it anywhere on the indicator power feed - behind the light will work if you like. Just between indicator power feed to earth

[loanrangie]

Is there any benefit in fitting a resistor on the tail light power feed ?

[Tombie]

Is there any benefit in fitting a resistor on the tail light power feed ?

In what context?

Upgrading to LED tail lights? Or for trailer detection?

[loanrangie]

In what context?

Upgrading to LED tail lights? Or for trailer detection?

I'm putting LED's on my 6x4 trailer and wondering if putting resistors on the tail light feed will help, in saying that i think i will probably just make a pulse buster as its almost the same effort.

Re read the whole thread again and a resistor on the brake or tail light circuit isnt required, i need to make this as compact as possible so i can squeeze it in near my compressor with a remote switch.

[101RRS]

My understanding is that the car tests for the presence of a trailer through the indicator circuits so I would say no point putting resistors/pulse busters on the tail light circuit.

Certainly my RRS is only on the indicator circuit.

Garry

[loanrangie]

My understanding is that the car tests for the presence of a trailer through the indicator circuits so I would say no point putting resistors/pulse busters on the tail light circuit.

Certainly my RRS is only on the indicator circuit.

Garry

Yeah i just read that in here somewhere, i thought it may help with the pulsing but i will build the box with relays instead of adding to the trailers circuit.

[101RRS]

Yeah i just read that in here somewhere, i thought it may help with the pulsing but i will build the box with relays instead of adding to the trailers circuit.

This is what I built. Plugs into the car trailer plug at one end and into the trailer power cable at the other - I just velcro the box to the draw bar - works fine.

176728

You can see I have the resistors on the outside as they generate a real lot of heat and inside the case things may have cooked.

176729

The relays on the inside. The D3/early RRS need both resistor and relay on each indicator power line but the D4s are different - I think they only need a resistor on one power line but not sure - D4 people please chime in here.

For flexibility, I did not want mine mounted permanently in the car nor the trailer. One way around all this is to put incandescent globes in the trailer side lights leaving leds elsewhere, the car will pick up the load of the one incandescent globe.

Garry

[Tombie]

Interesting set up Garry.. bit of “outside the box thinking” [emoji56]

You are correct on D4 only needing one, but 2 makes the dash symbol consistent!

If you mount the resistors to the inside of the box with thermal adhesive they run cool enough.

[shack]

I've got the resistors inside the box on the ones I've built, never had an issue, even when some peanut leaves it plugged in all night! It would be best to unplug when not in use for some time.

[101RRS]

If you mount the resistors to the inside of the box with thermal adhesive they run cool enough.

But not thinking things through properly - I bought a plastic box from Jaycar and the resistors started to melt the plastic when inside the box. Too tight to buy a new metal box so put the resistors on the outside in the airflow.

[Ferret]

I've got the resistors inside the box on the ones I've built, never had an issue, even when some peanut leaves it plugged in all night! It would be best to unplug when not in use for some time.

When the indicators are not flashing there is no power going through the resistors. So they will never heat over night unless you also left the indicators (hazard lights maybe) running over night.

In other words, not a problem leaving it plugged in when not in use, at least from a heat point of view.

[101RRS]

When the indicators are not flashing there is no power going through the resistors.

I cannot speak to the D4 but with ignition on there is pulsed power going through both indicator cables on the D3/RRS - hence the pulsing. Barely visible on the trailer LEDs in daylight and just visible at night but the pulse is there. With a pulse buster box fitted this pulsing does heat the resistors to a high temp.

[shack]

I cannot speak to the D4 but with ignition on there is pulsed power going through both indicator cables on the D3/RRS - hence the pulsing. Barely visible on the trailer LEDs in daylight and just visible at night but the pulse is there. With a pulse buster box fitted this pulsing does heat the resistors to a high temp.Thanks! That saved me typing it!

[Tombie]

That’s odd.

My control boxes the relay takes the pulse, so the resistors never see that energy when indicators aren’t on.

My units won’t get warm if left connected with the vehicle sitting there indicators off.

[BradC]

My control boxes the relay takes the pulse, so the resistors never see that energy when indicators aren’t on.

How does that work? Do you have the resistors on the LED side of the relay contact?

If that's correct that would mean the vehicle only needs the resistance in the relay coil to "detect a trailer" and the resistor sizes could be either drastically reduced or removed altogether.

[shack]

That’s odd.

My control boxes the relay takes the pulse, so the resistors never see that energy when indicators aren’t on.

My units won’t get warm if left connected with the vehicle sitting there indicators off.My boxes were about 400 projects ago, can't remember how I wired it, I'll have a look when I get 5..

[Stuart02]

The folks at Stockman installed a Whitevision trailer trigger but it didn't work...

[loanrangie]

Ok so now that i've bought a van and it has led lights i need to fastrack building a pulse buster, think i have my shopping listed sorted.
I will be adding a switch but haven't seen a diagram as to how to wire it ? I will be cutting my trailer wiring and placing this inline since i am adding led's to my box trailer.

2 x load resitors
2 x relays 40a or will 30a be ok ?
aluminium box
wire - i have
connectors - i have

[Tombie]

Add:

Thermal epoxy - Jaycar etc - to bond the resistors to the housing as a heat sink.

You can solder or use connector blocks inside the box - up to you.

Isolation switch DPST

I have a diagram sitting here somewhere.

[loanrangie]

Add:

Thermal epoxy - Jaycar etc - to bond the resistors to the housing as a heat sink.

You can solder or use connector blocks inside the box - up to you.

Isolation switch DPST

I have a diagram sitting here somewhere.

Is there too much load for a single pole switch ?, i need to make it remote.

[Bulletman]

This is the set up I have used 3 times and works well
178061

Bulletman

[loanrangie]

This is the set up I have used 3 times and works well
178061

Bulletman

If adding a switch would i put it between the resistor and the earth ?

[Bulletman]

If adding a switch would i put it between the resistor and the earth ?
What's the switch for
Cheers Bulletman

[Bulletman]

I would reckon the resistance from the relays is more than enough to trigger the car recognition. Feeling the resistor there is bugger all heat coming off them
Bulletman

[loanrangie]

What's the switch for
Cheers BulletmanTo toggle between led and non led lights otherwise the car will think I have a trailer connected all the time.

[Bulletman]

To toggle between led and non led lights otherwise the car will think I have a trailer connected all the time.

Ok, I just made the box to stay on the van so it's not connected full time to the car . Someone wiser than me would need to answer where to put the switch but I would assume as you said on the resistor.

Bulletman

[loanrangie]

Ok, I just made the box to stay on the van so it's not connected full time to the car . Someone wiser than me would need to answer where to put the switch but I would assume as you said on the resistor.

Bulletman

This is going in the car tucked where ever i can fit it. Looking at your diagram, relay pins 30 and 86 are bridged right ?

[Bulletman]

This is going in the car tucked where ever i can fit it. Looking at your diagram, relay pins 30 and 86 are bridged right ?
Correct, I actually found that diagram on this site so it's not mine , but I have made 3 units based on that diagram and they have all worked fine.
You just have to make sure you get the direction right.. as in which end is the car end and which is the trailer otherwise the relays are wrong and it doesn't work.. yes I learnt that from experience.
Bulletman

[101RRS]

My pulse buster just plugs into the car trailer socket and the trailer cable then plugs into the pulse buster - no switch required, easily moved between different trailers.

Also remember that it is the pulse buster that is tricking the car's systems not the trailer - so while the trailer indicator might show up when turning it does not mean the trailer lights are working - so always check them.

[Bulletman]

My pulse buster just plugs into the car trailer socket and the trailer cable then plugs into the pulse buster - no switch required, easily moved between different

Also remember that it is the pulse buster that is tricking the car's systems not the trailer - so while the trailer indicator might show up when turning it does not mean the trailer lights are working - so always check them.

Yes that is how I made mine, no led lights you just plug straight into the car socket.
I can understand the idea of it permanently fitted to the car , so I would assume in doing that you would wire it directly into the existing 7 pin plug on the D3.
Bulletman

[A1oz]

Ok here's what I'm thinking
As the D3 has two plugs at the rear can you make one plug for LED and the other for standard trailer lights ????

[LRD414]

Ok here's what I'm thinking
As the D3 has two plugs at the rear can you make one plug for LED and the other for standard trailer lights ????

The white plug is not wired as a trailer, so no indicators

[loanrangie]

Ok here's what I'm thinking
As the D3 has two plugs at the rear can you make one plug for LED and the other for standard trailer lights ????

Technically you could put it would be a pointless exercise, just make a pulse buster box and a put a switch on it, this is what i did so i just turn it on when i'm towing a trailer or van with LED lights.

[Grappler]

Here is a pic of the "blackbox" I made as a project for RRS. made it a couple of years ago and still works fine for both led trailer recognitions and pulse suppression. Cost about $70 including box and in line connectors

Ive since sold my RRS. The pulse busta I made is no longer needed. See post 141 in this thread. First in to PM its yours Just need to cover postage and a trip to the PO Say $20

[Grappler]

Shack was first in for the homemade pulse busta