engine on 2002 td5 disco cutting out

[mr bean]

Hi this is my first time writing to this forum and I need help. We bought a 2002 td5 disco 6 months ago and for the last 2 months we have had a problem with the engine cutting out, at first it was when we were taking off from having stopped at lights or intersections now it happens while driving at speedand it seems to be getting worse .After stopping it takes a lot of cranking to restart like there isn't any fuel getting through then it coughs into life and is fine for a while. I have just replaced the injector loom and the crankshaft sensor to no avail ,the fuel pump was replaced in January just before we bought the car . any ideas would be appreciated
mr bean

[Graeme]

Does the fuel filter need replacing?
Is the water sensor electrical plug connected at the bottom of the filter? If not, has the filter been drained to ensure there's no water?

There has been more than 1 instance where the pipe fittings were reconnected incorrectly to the pump after replacement but I cannot remember exactly what problems that caused.

Is the connector at the ecu still clean after replacing the injector harness?

[mr bean]

I checked the filter and there was no water ,the red plug at the ecu has been cleaned again and still the problem persists
mr bean

[apt roar]

Had an older landy cut out while driving at speed recently. Turned out to be fuel cut-off on injector pump (i.e. Engine stop solenoid I think), wire had simply come loose.

[Graeme]

Sometimes the cut-out switch on the left firewall in the engine bay can be defective, so perhaps try pressing it a few times.

[toad]

Just had a simlar problem with my 1999 Td5 Defender, new pump, new loom, hard to prime etc. Gave up on that fault and went to track down a rear LH indicator problem and found a faulty earth on the T/case.

This earth is the earth for the LH rear indicator, brake lights and the fuel pump! Guess what, no more engine cutting out!!:D

This sounds the same???

[mr bean]

Hi again
my wife was driving the car yesterday and she noticed the engine seemed to be struggling. There seemed to be not enough power. She was traveling at up to 80-90km, (this is in the country) but it was reluctant to get up to 110. It seemed to cut out then revive again several times and then at times it seemed perfectly alright. In drive the engine was juddering at times but not when she put it into third.
It cut out entirely at an intersection then another four times before she got home just while driving along. It seemed to be starved of fuel.
I was wondering if this helps with a diagnosis
mr bean

[jwb]

I had difficulty starting, a howling fuel pump and cut outs. Got fixed by doing injector seals, eventually after working thru all the above.

[mr bean]

has anyone had problems with fuel pump relay on an intermittent basis just wondering if this could be an easy solution
mr bean

[mr bean]

OK I have checked for faulty earth loose wires on fuel cut off switch, nothing obvious
At the moment sitting in the drive it starts easily with no indication of any problems I will find out if the problem is fixed next time I take it out
mr bean

[Rudolf]

I had one engine relay burned out.
One could hear it switching while the engine was off but the problem was not intermittend.
Another place to check is the injector harness plug into the head.
Check if the two tabs are there to keep it in place.
Mine got broken off (Not me) and the problem was intermittend.
A hefty cable tie around the corner of the head fixed this.

[mr bean]

The tabs on the plug are fine and there is no sign of the relay switching while I've had the bonnet up .It's hard to tell when your on the road.
mr bean

[frantic]

If it's not tracable to an electrical problem say pump can only supply a small volume good for low speed/ revs no good for high speed / fuel demand. It may be the hose's / fittings themselves have been clamped when changing either filter or pump and the hose through age has not sprung back to a fully round shape thereby reducing supply (had this happen and will cut out at odd times but restart when fuel is supplied), or clogging up easier if you got a dose of bad fuel. The same could have happened to the steel fittings when the mechanic put the clamp on the hose a bit to tight.

[mr bean]

I took the disco for a test drive and here are some observations.
The problems didn't seem to occur until the engine reached operating temperature. When you back off the throttle the engine hunts and sitting idling in the driveway for five minutes a knock developed then the engine stalled.
The next thing I intend to replace is the fuel filter to see if this makes any difference.
Anymore thoughts would be appreciated.

[alien]

Don't know if this will help or not, still worth a look.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/83302-splutter-acceleration.html

Cheers.

[Graeme]

The problems didn't seem to occur until the engine reached operating temperature.
Go for a test drive with the MAF unplugged as the MAF is ignored until operating temp is reached. The engine would normally still run reasonably well and can help identify a faulty MAF.

[130man]

Hi mr bean, how did you go sorting out this issue? Satisfactorily, I hope.We would like to know the outcome. Cheers, 130man.

[justinc]

I would suggest a look at the lower sealing washers on the injectors. sounds like the fuel system is being pressurized by combustion gasses. Will it idle away quite happily for ages, then after climbing a hill or driving on the flat for a while start to loose power, miss, and then almost stop? After this, does the fuel pump sound noisy and take a while for the vehicle to restart, only to have this happen all over again? I have recently done one where number 3 injector copper sealing washer had a gas track blown through it, and under boost/ load it would airate the fuel system, causing the problem. Injectors need to be removed to check this though.

JC