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Ashes
8th November 2009, 08:37 AM
After the last couple of offroad jaunts I've got a few light scratches in the paintwork. Nothing through to the metal but probably just the clearcoat. I'm not to worried about them and it is to be expected on narrow trails rubbing against branches.

As it is our daily driver, I'd like to keep it looking as good as possible for a while yet (and to keep SWMBO happy)..

Any advice on how to remove them. I'll try some waxing this morning and after I'm finished that I'll have a look at the car:p

Also..anyone priced the standard mudflaps on the D3 as I've cracked on and I've also lost the plastic cover that goes over the tow plugs.

WhiteD3
8th November 2009, 09:00 AM
After the last couple of offroad jaunts I've got a few light scratches in the paintwork. Nothing through to the metal but probably just the clearcoat. I'm not to worried about them and it is to be expected on narrow trails rubbing against branches.

As it is our daily driver, I'd like to keep it looking as good as possible for a while yet (and to keep SWMBO happy).

They add character and you'll get sick of polishing them out if you're intending to plenty of 4WDing. Mine's covered in light scratches from branches...I figure I'll polish it before I sell it in the future.



Also..anyone priced the standard mudflaps on the D3 as I've cracked on and I've also lost the plastic cover that goes over the tow plugs.

I've recently broken my 3rd mud flap. LR in Brisbane charged me $50 to replace one which I thought was pretty good.

Re the plastic cover; I learnt early on to take it and the front one off before you go off road.

rmp
9th November 2009, 10:05 PM
There are companies that come round and fix up paintwork like this, and they can do an incredible job of paint, duco, upholstery, plastics.

Bumper repairs, scratch repairs, car detailing - Touch Up Guys (http://www.touchupguys.com.au/)
Chips N Scratches: Repairs of automotive chips to the highest quality (http://www.chipsnscratches.com.au/)

The problem with DIY in this instance is finding the proper materials as opposed to some stuff from Autobahn, and it's not something you can experiment with till you get it right as there is a definite skill to it and you don't want to stuff it up.

That said, I'm sure some work with a buffer and polish will improve things but not by very much.

I am reliably informed that LRs have better paintjobs that Japanese vehicles so it is easier for the pros to work their magic on them.

Like WD3 said, worry about it come resale. I look on it as a kind of cost of doing business, the price of freedom.

CaverD3
10th November 2009, 06:22 AM
This is what I did to mine. Made them slightly longer than OEMs though but you could make them shorter.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Modified Sand Ploughs (flaps) (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic9518.html)

Tote
10th November 2009, 08:36 AM
Also the new Land Rover Mudflaps fitted by the dealer to mine are different, see this post:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-zone/72879-after-market-mud-flaps.html#post1096545
Regards,
Tote

disco2hse
10th November 2009, 08:50 AM
I am reliably informed that LRs have better paintjobs that Japanese vehicles so it is easier for the pros to work their magic on them.

Not been my experience. I find the paint on new vehicles to be both thin and soft. The clear coat is pretty much ineffective and polishes off quickly.

If the scratches are through the clear coat then polishing will not fix the problem, it will make it worse. Polishing will only be effective if the clear coat has been marked.

If the scratch is through the clear coat and even through the paint itself you can use the paint touch up kits like this stuff.

http://www.mapc.co.nz/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/8540.jpg

It usually comes with different coloured waxes that you can build up to make the scratch flush with the surface. Has the added benefit of sealing scratches to prevent corrosion too.

Alan

pedgecum
22nd January 2010, 03:23 PM
Try Scratch-X 2.0 from Meguiars. It will smooth the rough edges of the scratch in the clearcoat/paint and stop the light highlighting the marks. No need to cut into the paint work along the scratch. Follow-up with a good quality wax to protect the paint and fill in the scratch.

The scratch is still there however you just can't see them anymore.

AnD3rew
22nd January 2010, 03:32 PM
I have used those professional touch up guys a few times and they have done an amazing job, I had a nasty deep scratch in teh bumper of a flat black bmw through the paint and deep into the plastic underneath and he made it disappear so you couldn't tell, and also a nasty nasty jagged scratch edge on an alloy wheel where it had been banged into a gutter, that also magically disapeared.

Only thing is I am not sure how long these kind of repairs will last for, so as others have said I would be inlcined to leave it until you are ready to sell thecar and then do it.

Ashes
24th January 2010, 12:10 PM
If time permits..will have a go at it today.

Ashes
26th January 2010, 01:56 PM
Used the Maguires 2.0x scratch removal and it works very well. Fills all the small scratches and reduced the big couple quite well. Seems a good product. Not sure how long it will last but would certainly be handy to apply the day you are selling the car!!

What product do people use on the plastics? Wheel arches, rear bumper etc?

DD Disco
26th January 2010, 03:19 PM
For the black plastic areas I find Auto Glym Bodyshop 07B plastic and rubber cleaner to be the best.

This is the product that a lot of detailers use, I think that it is stocked at Autobarn.

Neil P
26th January 2010, 06:39 PM
...What product do people use on the plastics? Wheel arches, rear bumper etc?

Autoglym - car cleaning products, car care products, car valeting, car detailing (http://www.autoglym.com/enGB/product-proddetail.asp?v06VQ=EM&Range=1)

Lasts for a month or two . Takes 20mins to coat ALL black plastic
( using a small piece of sponge ) . MUST , repeat , MUST be buffed
up within a minute of application or it will dry to a dodgy looking
finish . You just want the oil shine without the wax solid .
It's not sticky like spray on oil rubbish . Repco stock the range too .

djhampson
27th January 2010, 12:58 PM
Maguires Exterior Trim Detailer works wonders on the plastics.

Its a spray can which you can get from Supercheap for $20 or so. One can is enough to the D3 and the wheels.

JohnF
27th January 2010, 02:27 PM
Not going to tell you how to remove scratches--I leave mine, but will tell a story about getting scratched. In the early 1970's was driving my VW beetle, a beetle that thought it was a Land Rover to the top of the hill that you walk down to get to Colong Caves, and got it stuck crossing a small creek.

While scratching my head what to do, a brand New Nissan Patrol came along and pulled me out. The Nissan driver was almost crying. He said "dont go up there. I scratched my car and its brand new, only had it a week." I have never seen someone so upset for a long time.

But I did ignore his advice and take the Beetle up there. Big problem parked it going up a steep hill that was too slipery for me [Four Wheel drives made it] and all the petrol syphoned out through the carby, but that is another story.

But I said to others then, not to the Nissan owner, and still say it. If you buy a 4-Wheel Drive and take it of road you do expect to scratch it. A 4WD without scratches should not be allowed on the road.

Ashes
27th January 2010, 08:20 PM
I don't mind the scratches. They are still there..just masked:D

Nice to cover them up as the car is the daily driver for the Mrs and keeping the plastics shiny makes a big difference looks wise.

rovercare
27th January 2010, 08:35 PM
You need to use a cutting compound, then a polish, as the cutters removes the protective polish on the paint, don;t do it to often, as the name implies, it is a cutting compound............best left for those that know what they are doing, as high speed rotating things used can either burn or cut through the paint if not careful;)