Coolest Rangie Classic on the planet

[buzz66]

It's not what you think.
I have only recently replaced the Air Conditioning Condenser in the Rangie.
Then in typical Range Rover fashion the compressor seal blew out.
So $1000 later the Air Conditioning is working perfect again. **** knows for how long.
Anyway to cut a long story short when the Air was on, I still had a small but amount of hot air coming from the foot vents. So I thought I'd install a Ball Valve in the heater water input line and shut off the heat altogether.
Wow what a difference it has made.
At best you will have latent heat in behind the dash, or at worst like mine you can have the heater competing with the Air Con.
I must say that the whole heating/ventilation system in the classic is nothing short of ****ing pathetic. It goes up there with the Hand Brake!
The best $50 I have ever spent of the piece of **** crappy British **** box!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/410.jpg

[Lucus]

ummm good idea, but the 3.9's cooling system needs to circulate through the heater core as the engine warms up to prevent cavitation in the pump while the thermostat is closed. You really need to set up a bypass so the you closebthe heater core off from the motor but still allow coolant to circulate through the
heater pipes.

Two three way ball vales, a couple of barbed fittings and a short bit of hose would see you right

[buzz66]

The real question is weather the Impeller corrosion (Air bubbles from cavitation) is going to be bad enough to cause an issue before the seal lets go. Somehow I think the seal will be the thing that dictates pump failure.

I could be wrong of course..:eek:

[jazzaD1]

i reckon i'll give it a go in my disco when i put the engine back in, i assumed the heat was entirely from the engine and just radiating through the firewall, i guess ill set up a bypass and find out

[roverv8]

It's not what you think.
I have only recently replaced the Air Conditioning Condenser in the Rangie.
Then in typical Range Rover fashion the compressor seal blew out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/11/410.jpg

Is the seal an easy fix or does it mean a reco compressor?
Thanx Luke

[Bush65]

As Lucas said, you need to plumb in a bypass if you close off water flow through the heater before the thermostat opens.

No problem once the thermostat opens as it then circulates through the radiator. The pump has to be able to circulate water in the engine while the thermostat is closed.

[PhilipA]

AND may I just say, What a beautifully clean engine.
Don't you ever see the dreaded red dust?
Regards Philip A

[buzz66]

Modern Impeller design and more importantly modern coolants have eliminated any significant Impeller erosion due to cavitation.
The coolant system is NOT flow or pressure regulated to produce an ideal amount of back pressure for the pump. ALL Water Pumps cavitate. :cool:

There are still people around that say you should change your spark plug leads regularly. Back when Fangio was King that was true, but we won't go there.:eek:

The cooling system is only temperature regulated. (Not withstanding the spring loaded cap)

Anyway I digress.

A new compressor seal installed will cost $250. If you have a tired compressor and you want to continue keeping the vehicle for more than 5 years then replacing the seal doesn't make economic sense.
In my case the compressor was 8 years old and the vehicle was in storage for 5 years. So it was pretty much a no brainer. Seal was changed.

[Bush65]

Modern Impeller design and more importantly modern coolants have eliminated any significant Impeller erosion due to cavitation.
The coolant system is NOT flow or pressure regulated to produce an ideal amount of back pressure for the pump. ALL Water Pumps cavitate. :cool:

There are still people around that say you should change your spark plug leads regularly. Back when Fangio was King that was true, but we won't go there.:eek:

The cooling system is only temperature regulated. (Not withstanding the spring loaded cap)

...
IMHO Lucus was correct in that you need a coolant bypass, but was incorrect to state the reason was to prevent cavitation.

Neither do issues of impeller design, coolant, impeller erosion, flow or pressure regulation, back pressure for the pump, spark plug leads or Fangio, temperature regulation or spring loaded caps, have anything to with the need to have a bypass so the coolant can circulate through the engine while the thermostat is closed.

What Land Rover did by using the heater for the coolant bypass is probably ok in the UK, but is inappropriate here.

It is a good idea for driver and passenger comfort in our climate, to rectify this. But others reading this thread should be aware that they need a coolant bypass if they choose to close off the heater circuit, and not to do it as shown above.