throttle housing coolant leak disco v8 2000

[MAD MAT]

got coolant seeping out of small square plate with 2 hoses fitted 2 it under throttle housing near air intake looks like 2 maybe 3 small bolts to remove . does this need some sort of rubber gasket . or just a bit of silicon. looks a bit fiddly thought i would ask . incase i need a new seal before i get into it. any body done this info would be appreciated

[whitakerb]

I was in the same boat a while back, however it was on a 92 RR so the plenum cover may be different, but the 2 pipes will go back to the intake manifold on the passenger side at the front. And from what I could tell, the chamber did little more than warm up the air on it's way into the engine.

So really you could just bypass it, or proper fix remove plenum cover and new gasket.

When I cleaned my plenum cover up when I did the top end, that chamber you speak of was fully blocked with dry coolant. The gasket is very simple and just a square piece of card with a 10ish mm hole at one side. So if you get some 0.5 - 1.0 mm gasket paper you can very easily make your own. If the little chamber is clean I would say it would take next to no time to sort out.



Ben

[mike 90 RR]

got coolant seeping out of small square plate with 2 hoses fitted 2 it under throttle housing near air intake looks like 2 maybe 3 small bolts to remove


I know the part you mean .... The plate is thin and is easily bent with the tightening of the bolts

Take it off ... setup wet & dry on a flat surface ... Rub the plate surface till it's all flat (shiny) ... use Holimar3 as a sealant / dont overload (torque) the bolts, or you will bend the plate and be right where you started again ..... ;)

Also do the job on a Saturday, and make sure you know who's selling a new plate, Just incase it's cu-put :angel:

Mike
:)

[whitakerb]

I know the part you mean .... The plate is thin and is easily bent with the tightening of the bolts




Am I talking about the right part Mike? under the plenum cover just before the butterfly?

I just did it up until my elbow clicked ;) but I'm a rough bastard. There is 1 longer bolt as far as I remember, so remember where they go. I made a gasket and used loctite 3 as the sealant, great sealant, but like moly grease, it jumps out of nowhere and gets you when you least expect it.

Good luck.


Ben

[mike 90 RR]

Am I talking about the right part Mike?

My bro has this model, and the plate / bolt description fits the part that we fixed about 2years ago ....
Either way ... the answer is basically the same ;)

Knowing our luck tho .... We could BOTH be off :p :( ...


Wonder if MADHAT will post a pic? ..... :angel:

Mike
:)


PS .... Hows that Disco gettin on Ben?? ...

[MAD MAT]

as 4 posting a pic . my computer skills r crap . and im a one finger typer but i will get to it soon . i do have a user picture but 4 some reason it will not show up . i will get there eventually . thanks again 4 the advice. i find this computer stuff as simple as a landrovers electrical system . cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

interesting,,
i can see where mines leaked in the past,,
and where someone has replaced the clips to stop it,,

I wonder if the hose IS blocked,,:eek:

one easy way to tell---;)

[whitakerb]

Wonder if MADHAT will post a pic? ..... :angel:




:rulez:




Disco is great. And for nearly 3 months I haven't had to put a spanner on my own car. Only one downside - it's just nor quite a RR... I'm a commoner now






interesting,,
i can see where mines leaked in the past,,
and where someone has replaced the clips to stop it,,

I wonder if the hose IS blocked,,

one easy way to tell---

If it is blocked you will probably find the hoses are ok, its the actual cavity that builds up with sludge. But as it is only a bypass of he coolant, it wont bother your engine at all

Ben

[MAD MAT]

had 2 goes at it now . once just using red gasket sealant . second attempt made a gasket 4 it bloody thing still leaks . thinking about doing away with it all together and just joining the 2 hoses together. from what i can see it only heats a small area of alloy on the air intake throttle housing to warm air before entering engine . probably so it runs smooth a bit quicker on those cold pommy mornings . gunna check with local landrover guru if this is acceptable , unless there r a few of you out there that can say this has been done

[whitakerb]

had 2 goes at it now . once just using red gasket sealant . second attempt made a gasket 4 it bloody thing still leaks . thinking about doing away with it all together and just joining the 2 hoses together. from what i can see it only heats a small area of alloy on the air intake throttle housing to warm air before entering engine . probably so it runs smooth a bit quicker on those cold pommy mornings . gunna check with local landrover guru if this is acceptable , unless there r a few of you out there that can say this has been done

It is what I was thinking, and mine was completely blocked. Never caused me any dramas.


Ben

[BigT]

Hi guys
if you don't live or go to the snow just by pass it .
the hose from the valley cover to the throttle body(the one behind the air con pump) take that to the top tank where the level indicator is. use 5/16 heater hose it's better to replace the whole hose 'cause the plastic stuff becomes brittle


cheers Tony

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Hi guys
if you don't live or go to the snow just by pass it .
the hose from the valley cover to the throttle body(the one behind the air con pump) take that to the top tank where the level indicator is. use 5/16 heater hose it's better to replace the whole hose 'cause the plastic stuff becomes brittle


cheers Tony

Yep. Just bypass it straight to the radiator point. Its really only a cold start thing to preheat the air in the intake. Actually does a pretty bad job of it too. Just leave the plate on there.

Cheers

Andrew.

[jessie_xa]

dido,

the chamber is for heating the air as its going in the throttle body.

its for countries that are below zero for months.


bypass it with new hose, as said before the plastic is brittle and breaks easy





Yep. Just bypass it straight to the radiator point. Its really only a cold start thing to preheat the air in the intake. Actually does a pretty bad job of it too. Just leave the plate on there.

Cheers

Andrew.

[PhilipA]

Or for a tidy look , just cut off the hoses to stubs and put a suitable bolt in the end of each smeared with silastic and put a clamp on.
Regards Philip A

[jessie_xa]

shoudnt do that as it changes the water flow through the engine which may cause hot spots, which could resulting in head gasket failure or cracking somewhere!!!




Or for a tidy look , just cut off the hoses to stubs and put a suitable bolt in the end of each smeared with silastic and put a clamp on.
Regards Philip A

[p38arover]

Unless you have throttle icing problems you could just bypass it.

[PhilipA]

shoudnt do that as it changes the water flow through the engine which may cause hot spots, which could resulting in head gasket failure or cracking somewhere!!!

Hmm, hasn't hurt mine in 5 years and Graeme Cooper used to do it. The amount of water is tiny . It is not the heater.

Regards Philip A

[MAD MAT]

thanks fir the info every one . ithought i would just bypass this plate and join the 2 hoses together . but the landrover bloke said noooo. that the air flow sensor would give readings that could start problems some where else . not sure if he was just drumming up business or not . as it seems to do bugger all . but .this was caused by someone overtightning the 3 small bolts in plate . causing a slight bow . just rubbed away 4 about 5 mins on wet n dry paper on flat surface until the plate became dead flat and it seals up fine . thanks for the suggestion to do this. mad mat

[MAD MAT]

I know the part you mean .... The plate is thin and is easily bent with the tightening of the bolts

Take it off ... setup wet & dry on a flat surface ... Rub the plate surface till it's all flat (shiny) ... use Holimar3 as a sealant / dont overload (torque) the bolts, or you will bend the plate and be right where you started again ..... ;)

Also do the job on a Saturday, and make sure you know who's selling a new plate, Just incase it's cu-put :angel:

Mike
:)
thanks mike 4 your helpful post

[biggin]

thanks fir the info every one . ithought i would just bypass this plate and join the 2 hoses together . but the landrover bloke said noooo. that the air flow sensor would give readings that could start problems some where else . not sure if he was just drumming up business or not . as it seems to do bugger all . but .this was caused by someone overtightning the 3 small bolts in plate . causing a slight bow . just rubbed away 4 about 5 mins on wet n dry paper on flat surface until the plate became dead flat and it seals up fine . thanks for the suggestion to do this. mad mat
What size are those bolts, and what is the best tool to use to get them off? It looks a bit fiddly to me.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I just joined the two hoses together,,

shirley not enough coolant to cause problems anywhere,,,,:angel:

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

What size are those bolts, and what is the best tool to use to get them off? It looks a bit fiddly to me.

You need to take the top half of the plenum off to get to it.
One of the bolts holding it on actually runs straight thru into the plenum. Make sure that this bolt isn't leaking as it plays havoc with manifold vacuum at idle.

Just join or re run with new heater hose.

Cheers

Andrew


Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.

[biggin]

.............
Just join or re run with new heater hose.

.........

I would, but how do you get the damn clips off?:confused:

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

I believe Land rover replaced it with an updated version due to leaks
Product Code: MGM000010K THOTTLE BODY HEATER ASSY V8 NRR/DIS2 (G)




http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/MGM000010K.JPG

[biggin]

Finally, I got around to fixing the coolant leak.
I visited Repco and bought 1m of 5/16" ID coolant hose and two clips for under $8.
Removed the throttle body hoses completely, and installed new hose from the expansion tank directly to the connection in the valley behind the a/c compressor.
Once I worked out how the silly LR clips worked, it was not too much of a problem removing the old ones, even though access was tight.
Hopefully that will be an end to my coolant loss issues that I have had since buying the vehicle.:)