TDi sump reseal

[Mikems]

I'm looking at doing a reseal on my TDi Disco [95] sump. It is leaking at the back I have a feeling it may be the no.5 main bearing cap seal. If this seal leaks, I assume, oil would pass down behind the sump. Is this so?
My reason for asking is, after I get the sump off, it may not be obvious where the leak is, so I would like to have a plan B.
Has anyone replaced no.5 bearing cap seal? Can it be done in situate?
Also, if it turns out I need to do this job, what do the seal guides [LRT-12-035] do & are they necessary?

Thank you in anticipation.
Michael.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

I can't comment on the TDi, but I did my V8 rear seal. I presume similar principle. Have to remove the flywheel, means gear box out
lowered the stabilizer bar, dropped sump and removed. removed the rear bearing cap and replaced the rear T seals and put hylomar blue in as well. Replaced the rear crank seal and then torqued it all up. Refitted sump with RTV

[Mikems]

Thanks for the reply. The oil seal I'm talking about is in the rear main bearing cap, not the rear engine seal.

[langy]

Yep, it's all do able in situ. I've done it on my 300tdi and it's all good.

The leak is actually a dead t-piece (packing piece ERR913 x 2), and the leak appears at junction of the block and bellhousing adaptor. (If it was the rear main then the leak would be the join of the adaptor and bellhousing).

The short story is sump off, 12pt socket and breaker bar to undo the bolts, and tap the cap off with a small hammer. You'll notice the t-pieces are hard and perished.

Fit new t-pieces, smear a fair amount of decent silicone on them ( I use Dow corning 732 from CBC) - the silicone acts for a short time as a lubricant before it cures. Also do the face of the rear main engine seal as it just rests against the face of the rear cap when fitted. With a hefty wad of silicone in there, less likely to have an annoying little leak later.

With a large g-clamp and two pieces of sheet metal compress and install like piston rings (Which is what the LR special tool sort of does)

Then re-torque the bolts and after a while trim the ends of the t-pieces as per specs.

To make the sump stay together, clean the living daylights out of the block face and sump joint face. I used thinners and it works for me.

Run a decent bead of silicone on the sump joint face and then have a cup of tea. No joke, the time spent doing that (10mins) lets the silicone consolidate and make a better seal. Then torque up in sequence and it should be all good.

[Mikems]

Thanks for that information Langy. I like to know what I'm in for before I start. Good tips & that part no. will be handy to.
Michael.