Who Knows the LT95 well

[clean32]

Next project will be rebuilding the LT95

The box is OK no grumbles or groans, shifting down into 3rd needs a double de clutch and I really get that correct at high revs. And some times she will not go into first with out putting it in second first when stopped at the lights, but I think that’s due to having the idle turned up a bit. Over 400K and I don’t believe the box has ever been touched.

My question is what can I expect?
Bearings and seals I assume all be off the shelf items, gaskets I can make easy.
But where is the best place to get any thing else I may need

And what should I expect to have to swap out ??


Cheers

[Bearman]

Next project will be rebuilding the LT95

The box is OK no grumbles or groans, shifting down into 3rd needs a double de clutch and I really get that correct at high revs. And some times she will not go into first with out putting it in second first when stopped at the lights, but I think that’s due to having the idle turned up a bit. Over 400K and I don’t believe the box has ever been touched.

My question is what can I expect?
Bearings and seals I assume all be off the shelf items, gaskets I can make easy.
But where is the best place to get any thing else I may need

And what should I expect to have to swap out ??


Cheers
Bearings, seals,gaskets(buy a kit,don't bother trying to make them) synchro rings,thrust washers,possibly a gear or two, new oil pump gears,oil feed ring,selector foot pads. In the transfer you will need seals,bearings, centre diff thrust washers and possibly cross shafts/gears, and depending what intermediate shaft setup you have, thrust washers or bearings at least maybe a gear replacement if it needs it........... and a couple of days to set it all up again. Dont forget to replace the mainshaft inner seal, speedo drive seal, intermediate cross shaft oring seals and gearlever rubber seal. Make sure you use a metal cased seal between the gearbox and transfer. There is always the possibly that you will find something extra that needs replacing e.g. output shafts. All parts are readily available from outlets. Buy the bearings/seals from a bearing shop (same bearing/much cheaper). BMI Sydney are a good supplier. If you need any part numbers I can help.................Brian

[101RRS]

PeterP is the current LT95 expert;).

See from about page 2 on this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/93055-lt95-101-a.html

Garry

[djam1]

Not sure if this helps

Land Rover parts - GEARBOX - LT95 (4 SPEED) (http://www.roverparts.com.au/gearbox___lt95__4_speed_?b=1)

[DeeJay]

I am reliably told the main bearings should be genuine. There are some other brands getting around that are not up to the task. Sorry, I can't recall what brand they are.

[clean32]

Not sure if this helps

Land Rover parts - GEARBOX - LT95 (4 SPEED) (http://www.roverparts.com.au/gearbox___lt95__4_speed_?b=1)

thanks for that, ill give them a ring to see about sink rings etc

[djam1]

I am reliably told the main bearings should be genuine. There are some other brands getting around that are not up to the task. Sorry, I can't recall what brand they are.

This could be true but I know most Stage 1 s from the early 80s had faulty bearings from the factory they never failed but they were noisy.
I would be inclined to buy quality known brand bearings and avoid unmarked or Chinese ones.

[clean32]

thanks guys, i have tryed to get in contact with the guy in SA who is selling one, with no responce so far.
bearings are not a problem, best to spend the money there and i suspect some of the new seals are better than originals. dubble liped etc etc.

so if a kit costs a grand, thats a good starting point. any one know what sinc rings cost, and other shafts that tend to need replaceing, what about selectors? replace or weld up and file back? etc

my box has the exsternal oil line mod done. is it better to keep this and leave out the TC seal all togeather. is there an advantage in haveing the TC so full of oil? or am i on the wrong track.

[steveG]

I've never done one before, but I have 2 in pieces in my shed at the moment. One came with my Isuzu (ex Stage1) and is pretty tired, and the other is from a Stage1 V8 - in pretty good nick. I just stripped the V8 one last night and it will go back together with some new bearings, seals and gaskets.

From what I can find out there are 2 reasons for the oil migration between the box and transfer. First is the seal just gets old and hard, and the second is that the oil pumps through the spacer sleeve behind the rear main bearing. The seal runs on the outside of this sleeve, but the sleeve is just a sliding fit on the shaft and the oil can get between it and the shaft, helped along if the sleeve is actually turning on the shaft.

Some people suggest just fitting the sleeve with some loctite/sealant between it and the shaft, while others also go to the trouble of locking or pinning the sleeve to the shaft so it cant rotate.

Roverparts do a complete kit for around $1000 that includes synchros, all bearings, gaskets etc. Details on their website of whats in it.
I bought the large bearings for the mainshaft, layshaft, and center diff from CBC bearings but they still aren't cheap (over $100 each for the larger bearings).
I was told by a couple of different people to only use genuine RHP bearings for the large mainshaft bearings as the Isuzu will eat lesser bearings in short(er) order.
In hindsight I would have been better to just get a kit with everything in it - much less stuffing around, and probably cheaper in the long run.

Steve

[Bearman]

Another source of transfer between the boxes is the reverse shaft. The standard o ring is not a good seal. You can either use a better o ring or a mild loctite or both to fix this. I use loctite on the mainshaft spacer and output gear. Also the quality of some mainshaft rear seals is a bit sus, make sure you use a metal cased one and use a bit of sealant under it. Fitting it can be a bit difficult but if you tilt it slightly towards the top of the box it will go in easier.

[wagoo]

Most points have been covered. I have little to add except to suggest that the rear splines and particularly importantly, the circlip groove on the gearbox mainshaft are likely to be well worn at 400,000kms, so plan to replace it. The distance sleeve for the transfercase input gear can be prevented from spinning on the mainshaft with a little dob of weld inside the bore, close to the back of the sleeve.
wagoo.

[steveG]

There seem to be a lot of useful tips around for the LT95 but they are all in different places and I haven't seen anywhere a good "LT95 rebuild for beginners" tutorial with lots of pictures and the tips together in one place.
I've seen them for other landy boxes but not the LT95.
Does one exist?

Having pulled a couple of them apart, read the manual, and spoken to a couple of people that know them inside out, they seem to be a good candidate for a first gearbox rebuild as they don't require any special tooling and are pretty simple.
On the other hand - since I've never actually rebuilt one - if my interpretation is wrong then I'm not only screwed but now have a shed full of expensive Meccano :eek:

If a few people think its worthwhile, I'll start a thread detailing the rebuild of mine so that people who know them well can chime in with their experience and tips. Things that either aren't in the repair manual, or from experience were done differently to what the manual stated.

So...anyone interested ??

Steve

[jakeslouw]

ALWAYS

[Blknight.aus]

it'll save me from doing it when i do mine up....

I've got access to a couple of dead ones that probabley wont be able to be bought back to life if you want a praccie one.

[wagoo]

Don't wish to discourage anyone, but having rebuilt many Lt95s I'd have to warn that it certainly isn't a job for the inexperienced or faint hearted.There are some special tools required, such as a dummy intermediate shaft, gear puller or hydraulic press, internal and external circlip pliers, bearing and oil seal drifts, blowlamp or oxy acetelyne kit to warm up the casing to facilitate bearing fitment.There are a couple of areas that even the experienced can screw up in that can really kill the joy of working on these bloody things.:mad:
Wagoo.

[steveG]

Don't wish to discourage anyone, but having rebuilt many Lt95s I'd have to warn that it certainly isn't a job for the inexperienced or faint hearted.There are some special tools required, such as a dummy intermediate shaft, gear puller or hydraulic press, internal and external circlip pliers, bearing and oil seal drifts, blowlamp or oxy acetelyne kit to warm up the casing to facilitate bearing fitment.There are a couple of areas that even the experienced can screw up in that can really kill the joy of working on these bloody things.:mad:
Wagoo.

Thanks Wagoo. By "beginners" I was thinking about those who have a reasonable amount of mechanical experience/skill but who have never actually rebuilt or repaired a gearbox before, rather than someone that changed their first oil filter last weekend and wants to rebuild their box this week..
I'm definitely in the "beginners" group in that sense :D

In regard to special tools I was more referring to special jigs or assembly tools that are essential to complete the job and can't be worked around, rather that what I'd refer to as "normal" workshop tools or ones that can be fabricated easily. Certainly if someone doesn't have access to a torque wrench, decent hand tools and a press it would be out of scope for them.

I'm particularly interested in those areas you refer to that even the experienced can screw up. Looking forward to your input when it comes to that stage.

Steve

[steveG]

it'll save me from doing it when i do mine up....

I've got access to a couple of dead ones that probabley wont be able to be bought back to life if you want a praccie one.

Cheers Dave. Think I'm right for now with access to practice material.
Boss has been pretty good lately, but I think another gearbox might just tip her over the edge since she hasn't been able to get her car in the garage for the last 6 months due to my "projects" :)

Steve

[djam1]

Don't wish to discourage anyone, but having rebuilt many Lt95s I'd have to warn that it certainly isn't a job for the inexperienced or faint hearted.There are some special tools required, such as a dummy intermediate shaft, gear puller or hydraulic press, internal and external circlip pliers, bearing and oil seal drifts, blowlamp or oxy acetelyne kit to warm up the casing to facilitate bearing fitment.There are a couple of areas that even the experienced can screw up in that can really kill the joy of working on these bloody things.:mad:
Wagoo.

Bill tell us more about these things that can be screwed up I have on in the shed I was going to rebuild for fun.

[wagoo]

Bill tell us more about these things that can be screwed up I have on in the shed I was going to rebuild for fun.

I spent half an hour typing out a new post explaining some of the pitfalls, and when I submitted the post the forum ate it :mad:
Running low on battery power this evening. will try again tommorrow.
Wagoo.

[Blknight.aus]

Cheers Dave. Think I'm right for now with access to practice material.
Boss has been pretty good lately, but I think another gearbox might just tip her over the edge since she hasn't been able to get her car in the garage for the last 6 months due to my "projects" :)

Steve

you need a better garage or boss, whichevers easier, your choice.

[wagoo]

Bill tell us more about these things that can be screwed up I have on in the shed I was going to rebuild for fun.

The main areas to screw up on centre around fitting the mainshaft assembly into the casing and fitting the new mainshaft bearing. The bore in the casing for the mainshaft bearing is deep and a.tight fit.The bearing has to be drifted in past a circlip groove, and at this point it is easy to cock the bearing in the bore and if it isn't squared back up before drifting it home you can damage the bore to the extent that the bearing is a loose fit and may spin in service.Advice here is the heat up this area of the casing well, before attempting to fit the new bearing..
Fitting the mainshaft assembly into the casing is very fiddly because the alloy bridge where the detent balls and interlocks fit prevents offering the complete assembly squarely up to the rear bearing.I grind some alloy from the underside of the bridge so that the straight cut gear(reverse) clears, then I just have to focus on winkling 1st gear, synchro ring, plus needle roller and thrust bearing set into position on the shaft whilst pushing the shaft through the rear bearing, whilst making sure that 1st/2nd selector collar(straight cut gear) and 3rd/ 4th selector collar don't slide on their hubs enough to allow the selector balls and springs to fly off into space never to be found again .Once the shaft is close to home it is also fiddly centreing the rearmost needle thrust bearing in position on the shaft because the shafts diameter steps down just behind the thrust bearings perch.If you dont get all 3 pieces of this thrust bearing in position you won't be able to fit the transfercase input gear, shim washer, circlip and distance sleeve.Once you do fit the mainshaft all the way home carefully fit these components immediately so as to avoid the thrust bearing washer dropping off its perch if the shaft slides forward inside the rear bearing.
Fitting up the input shaft and front gearbox bearing plate and bearing retainer can be a bit of a fiddle too if the new bearing is a tight fit on the input shaft.Most other points including selector shaft/fork fitment/ adjustment are covered by the factory manual. The diecast alloy oil pump coverplate should be resurfaced with a sheet of coarse wet and dry on a flat surface, as these warp and leak in service.Genuine transmission gaskets settle after awhile so allbolts/nuts should be retightened a half hour or so after intial assembly toavoidoil leaks.
Transfer case is reasonably straightforward, but I've seen silly things like the low range intermediate gear and centre difflock dog clutch fitted back to front.
A note on centre diffs. Std factory units tend to prematurely wear and develop excessive backlash.This is due to the hemisphere that the spider gears seat against not being machined concentric with the side gear registers, so that although it is a 4 pinion diff, the drive thrust loads are not distributed evenly over the 4 gears.Remanufactured centre diffs such as done by Jack Mcnamara Differentials or Total Traction in Moorabin in Vic are remachined true and concentric and last much longer. I have no affiliation with these firms.
Wagoo.

[steveG]

Thats great info Wagoo. Much appreciated.
Some of those issues I haven't heard of before, but some are familiar.

I could end up regretting it, but I have started a "LT95 Rebuild for Beginners" thread in the projects/tutorials section. Just mentioning it in case you haven't already seen it as that section tends to be a bit out of the way (but seemed the most appropriate place to put it):

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/120920-lt95-rebuild-beginners.html



Steve

[wagoo]

Thats great info Wagoo. Much appreciated.
Some of those issues I haven't heard of before, but some are familiar.

I could end up regretting it, but I have started a "LT95 Rebuild for Beginners" thread in the projects/tutorials section. Just mentioning it in case you haven't already seen it as that section tends to be a bit out of the way (but seemed the most appropriate place to put it):

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/120920-lt95-rebuild-beginners.html



Steve
thanks steve,found it. i'll check it out periodically.
wagoo.

[uninformed]

Wagoo,

would putting the mainshaft bearing in the freezer prior to installation also help?

Serg

[wagoo]

Wagoo,

would putting the mainshaft bearing in the freezer prior to installation also help?

Serg

No sure Serg,I've got a spare shaft and bearing in the shed. When I get back home and settled in I'll give it a try.
Wagoo.

[timberwolf_302]

A little bit off main topic, and sorry if its considering hijacking, but has anyone here ever cooked their intermediate shaft? The case hardening wore off right where the high range gear sits, causing it to flop around and violently kick it out of gear, usually enough to send it into low range.

I have replaced it all with bits from a parts rangie I have, but how does the case hardening wear off like that?

I am running Castrol Multitrax in the main gearbox and transfer, as the book suggests engine oil, I chose this oil as it is a proper transmission fluid with similar viscosity to engine oil, and its designed for transaxles, so good for centre differentials.

Now...there was a night a few weeks previous to the issue where I had sat on 160km/h for about 35mins straight. Would that have caused excessive temperatures in the transfer case bad enough to ruin case hardening? Or is the oil I use not up to the task?

I have refilled with Multitrax again, but overfilled it to get the level closer to the intermediate shaft, hoping to keep it cooler.

So yeah, anyone had this problem?

Note: The speeding was an isolated occurrance, and was an emergency.

[justinc]

A little bit off main topic, and sorry if its considering hijacking, but has anyone here ever cooked their intermediate shaft? The case hardening wore off right where the high range gear sits, causing it to flop around and violently kick it out of gear, usually enough to send it into low range.

I have replaced it all with bits from a parts rangie I have, but how does the case hardening wear off like that?

I am running Castrol Multitrax in the main gearbox and transfer, as the book suggests engine oil, I chose this oil as it is a proper transmission fluid with similar viscosity to engine oil, and its designed for transaxles, so good for centre differentials.

Now...there was a night a few weeks previous to the issue where I had sat on 160km/h for about 35mins straight. Would that have caused excessive temperatures in the transfer case bad enough to ruin case hardening? Or is the oil I use not up to the task?

I have refilled with Multitrax again, but overfilled it to get the level closer to the intermediate shaft, hoping to keep it cooler.

So yeah, anyone had this problem?

Note: The speeding was an isolated occurrance, and was an emergency.

Hmm, 160km'h??? Sounds like it hasn't got a Rover motor infront of it then:twisted:

I'd say yes it was probably due to age/ torque, Multitrax should be adequate I would say.

I have had 100+ degrees in my LT95 and it doesn't do them any good for long periods in the intermediate shaft department:(. OK now with taper rollers though:).


JC

[timberwolf_302]

Hmm, 160km'h??? Sounds like it hasn't got a Rover motor infront of it then:twisted:

I'd say yes it was probably due to age/ torque, Multitrax should be adequate I would say.

I have had 100+ degrees in my LT95 and it doesn't do them any good for long periods in the intermediate shaft department:(. OK now with taper rollers though:).


JC


Thanks, all makes sense. I shouldnt have that problem again for a while anyway, the bits I replaced them with were pretty fresh. Taper roller conversion is a dream for me at this stage...costs about $3,000 doesnt it?

Also, it's actually a fresh 3.5 Rover V8, with a mild crow cam and extractors being its only non stock items.

I was impressed...never wrung its neck that hard before. Only reason I slowed down was the oil temp gauge started to touch the red zone.