Who Knows the LT95 well

[clean32]

Next project will be rebuilding the LT95

The box is OK no grumbles or groans, shifting down into 3rd needs a double de clutch and I really get that correct at high revs. And some times she will not go into first with out putting it in second first when stopped at the lights, but I think that’s due to having the idle turned up a bit. Over 400K and I don’t believe the box has ever been touched.

My question is what can I expect?
Bearings and seals I assume all be off the shelf items, gaskets I can make easy.
But where is the best place to get any thing else I may need

And what should I expect to have to swap out ??


Cheers

[Bearman]

Next project will be rebuilding the LT95

The box is OK no grumbles or groans, shifting down into 3rd needs a double de clutch and I really get that correct at high revs. And some times she will not go into first with out putting it in second first when stopped at the lights, but I think that’s due to having the idle turned up a bit. Over 400K and I don’t believe the box has ever been touched.

My question is what can I expect?
Bearings and seals I assume all be off the shelf items, gaskets I can make easy.
But where is the best place to get any thing else I may need

And what should I expect to have to swap out ??


Cheers

Bearings, seals,gaskets(buy a kit,don't bother trying to make them) synchro rings,thrust washers,possibly a gear or two, new oil pump gears,oil feed ring,selector foot pads. In the transfer you will need seals,bearings, centre diff thrust washers and possibly cross shafts/gears, and depending what intermediate shaft setup you have, thrust washers or bearings at least maybe a gear replacement if it needs it........... and a couple of days to set it all up again. Dont forget to replace the mainshaft inner seal, speedo drive seal, intermediate cross shaft oring seals and gearlever rubber seal. Make sure you use a metal cased seal between the gearbox and transfer. There is always the possibly that you will find something extra that needs replacing e.g. output shafts. All parts are readily available from outlets. Buy the bearings/seals from a bearing shop (same bearing/much cheaper). BMI Sydney are a good supplier. If you need any part numbers I can help.................Brian

[101RRS]

PeterP is the current LT95 expert.

See from about page 2 on this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-milita...t95-101-a.html

Garry

[djam1]

Not sure if this helps

Land Rover parts - GEARBOX - LT95 (4 SPEED)

[DeeJay]

I am reliably told the main bearings should be genuine. There are some other brands getting around that are not up to the task. Sorry, I can't recall what brand they are.

[clean32]

Not sure if this helps

Land Rover parts - GEARBOX - LT95 (4 SPEED)

thanks for that, ill give them a ring to see about sink rings etc

[djam1]

I am reliably told the main bearings should be genuine. There are some other brands getting around that are not up to the task. Sorry, I can't recall what brand they are.

This could be true but I know most Stage 1 s from the early 80s had faulty bearings from the factory they never failed but they were noisy.
I would be inclined to buy quality known brand bearings and avoid unmarked or Chinese ones.

[clean32]

thanks guys, i have tryed to get in contact with the guy in SA who is selling one, with no responce so far.
bearings are not a problem, best to spend the money there and i suspect some of the new seals are better than originals. dubble liped etc etc.

so if a kit costs a grand, thats a good starting point. any one know what sinc rings cost, and other shafts that tend to need replaceing, what about selectors? replace or weld up and file back? etc

my box has the exsternal oil line mod done. is it better to keep this and leave out the TC seal all togeather. is there an advantage in haveing the TC so full of oil? or am i on the wrong track.

[steveG]

I've never done one before, but I have 2 in pieces in my shed at the moment. One came with my Isuzu (ex Stage1) and is pretty tired, and the other is from a Stage1 V8 - in pretty good nick. I just stripped the V8 one last night and it will go back together with some new bearings, seals and gaskets.

From what I can find out there are 2 reasons for the oil migration between the box and transfer. First is the seal just gets old and hard, and the second is that the oil pumps through the spacer sleeve behind the rear main bearing. The seal runs on the outside of this sleeve, but the sleeve is just a sliding fit on the shaft and the oil can get between it and the shaft, helped along if the sleeve is actually turning on the shaft.

Some people suggest just fitting the sleeve with some loctite/sealant between it and the shaft, while others also go to the trouble of locking or pinning the sleeve to the shaft so it cant rotate.

Roverparts do a complete kit for around $1000 that includes synchros, all bearings, gaskets etc. Details on their website of whats in it.
I bought the large bearings for the mainshaft, layshaft, and center diff from CBC bearings but they still aren't cheap (over $100 each for the larger bearings).
I was told by a couple of different people to only use genuine RHP bearings for the large mainshaft bearings as the Isuzu will eat lesser bearings in short(er) order.
In hindsight I would have been better to just get a kit with everything in it - much less stuffing around, and probably cheaper in the long run.

Steve

[Bearman]

Another source of transfer between the boxes is the reverse shaft. The standard o ring is not a good seal. You can either use a better o ring or a mild loctite or both to fix this. I use loctite on the mainshaft spacer and output gear. Also the quality of some mainshaft rear seals is a bit sus, make sure you use a metal cased one and use a bit of sealant under it. Fitting it can be a bit difficult but if you tilt it slightly towards the top of the box it will go in easier.