Engine conversion dilemma

[Sideroad]

I have a bad left ankle (no cartilage and reconstructed) and find the clutch work quite painful with any decent use, but refuse to give up my truck.
I currently drive a 1968 S2A 109. I converted it to a flat tray and fitted a 120L LPG tank behind the cab. It runs a reconditioned Holden 179 with a fairey overdrive and cooled with a 4core G60 Patrol radiator (does a wonderful job at cooling). Also fitted with a fairey capstain winch
I drive the ute regularly, for random uses, and take it camping on beach and bush. I use it to haul a huge variety of stuff (including many rover parts :) and tow trailers, but I mostly ride my motorbikes and don't use it every day.

I just bought a 1968 S2A 88 with a Ford 250 Crossflow with a 3 speed auto conversion, with parabolics from the neighbour across the road who also has a S2A 88 with the ford/auto conversion.
The intention is to swap the ford and auto over to my 109, but looking closer it seems there is no way of keeping the radiator support panel in the same place as the Ford sits very close to the front cross member and allows no room for a radiator. All ford conversions I have seen have the front panel moved or have tried to look like a defender.
I also would have to loose the capstain winch as the engine pto would not line up, I have a trans pto cable winch I plan to fit, but that would loose the overdrive. If the radiator panel moves forward I will not be able to have any winch. I also planed to swap over to 3.55 ratio diffs, which would negate the need for the over drive. I have a salisbury rear and rover centre in storage.

I much prefer a manual trans, but over the years my ankle will get much worse and could force me to give up the 109. I also find that the Holden 179 really lacks torque and is even more noticeable since I went to original size wheels. (fuel usage 25L/100Km) I have no issue with the Ford motor and trans but if I have to destroy the old series look and extend the front panel I don't think I will do it as I like the look of the old truck. Is it possible to fit a radiator over the cross member between the steering relay and the guard without having a custom one manufactured?
Is there another option for my ankle and torque issue? Is there a way of boosting the clutch similar to the brake booster? Would a 202 have the extra torque I need? I also don't wish to sink large amounts of funds into the ute as I would rather use the money to save for a house.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

It is likely the Ford Auto is close coupled to the Series transfer box and if done in the usual way with a Braxton/Sim conversion you also won't be able to fit the PTO winch. This is because of the rear bearing needed to support the spud shaft into the transfer case.

If you wish to go auto and winch, you should probably be thinking of something like the auto and engine out of a Disco or an electric winch.

Perhaps it is time you did reconsider swapping the truck. Or maybe putting some power assistance on the clutch. I don't know if its possible but would a VH40 work as a booster in a clutch line?

[Slunnie]

The other issue there is the Ford C4 auto is very short, much like a series gearbox. If you run a disco ZF auto it will be too long and the options are to either push the lot forward with a Defender type nose or a run a rear propshaft which is about 20cm long if you push the motor and everything back into or through the firewall to keep the original fascia.

I would guess that there is no easy optioneither short of adapting a 4cyl motor to the auto. That auto should be easy to get bits for.

[ellard]

Hi there

I support Diana words....


Perhaps it is time you did reconsider swapping the truck

I understand these vehicles grow on you and become part of the family - but when you add up all the costs ....

Engine converson ...... theres some that are good and others which are ugly.


Well my views.

[isuzurover]

The other issue there is the Ford C4 auto is very short, much like a series gearbox. If you run a disco ZF auto it will be too long and the options are to either push the lot forward with a Defender type nose or a run a rear propshaft which is about 20cm long if you push the motor and everything back into or through the firewall to keep the original fascia.

I would guess that there is no easy optioneither short of adapting a 4cyl motor to the auto. That auto should be easy to get bits for.

Surely it wouldn't be as bad as all that??? The 109 propshaft is quite long - especially with a rover diff - which it looks like the vehicle in question has. We are only talking about moving the engine back 12-18" or so.

If you want an auto LR ute, the only options would be to buy an RRC which has been converted, or to buy a 110/defender ute and swap the R380 for a ZF auto.

If you have the time and skill to do the conversion yourself, and are happy with the shortcomings of a series (steering, brakes, axles, suspension) then I think you would probably be better off converting yours.

[Sideroad]

I like the rough and rugged ride of the series models and only just sold a good condition comfortable and reliable Pajero. If only i didn't mind the look of the extended front radiator panel it would be an easy conversion. I think the job of moving the entire engine and trans back would end up taking so long I would loose focus. To modify the fire wall, all mounts, drive shafts, chassis cross members and all linkages seems such a big job. Would be great once done but too big for me. I am now thinking of maybe trying to add a clutch booster to help the ankle and some how try to squeeze more horses out of the 179 before I commit to a big heart transplant.

[Slunnie]

Ahhh sorry. I was thinking this was in the 88"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1491.jpg

[chazza]

I can't see any reason why servo-assistance cannot be used on a hydraulic clutch. I am sure I have read of someone doing this on their Rover in LRO International. Use a remote servo that can be bolted anywhere convenient,

Cheers Charlie

[Blknight.aus]

correct you can servo assist the clutch.

hell you can put an air ram on it and have it air or vac operated via a push button on the gear shift.

[BigJon]

Nissan Patrol / Ford Mavericks had a servo assisted clutch. Could probably adapt one of those to suit. They have a very light clutch action.

[LRPV]

These photos are of a S2 that has had the 250 Xflow and C4 installed. The bulkhead has been modified slightly for the transmission and the radiator panel has been moved forwards to accomodate two quite bulky thermo fans. If the thermos were slimline, the panel could have possibly remained in it's original position (or close to it) :)

If I remember correctly, the transfercase (original) has been moved rearwards resulting in the rear driveshaft being shortened and the front shaft lengthened.

I hope these photos help.

[series3]

I'm pretty pure "wozapnin" on here has a 2a shorty with a crossflow and c4 setup..

[korg20000bc]

Here's a Series III with Ford X-flow for sale.
Tassie Cars - Advert Details (http://www.tassiecars.com.au/detail.jsp?id=35801&pic=0&ti=true)
Check the pics.

[Sideroad]

Thanks, Interesting, with slim line fans I think you are correct with the panel possibly remaining in place. I did notice the gear/selector locations though, seems loosing the mid seat is the cost. Though using a cable shifter and some playing with the high and low range levers i could get them all to stay in the same location. (maybe)


These photos are of a S2 that has had the 250 Xflow and C4 installed. The bulkhead has been modified slightly for the transmission and the radiator panel has been moved forwards to accomodate two quite bulky thermo fans. If the thermos were slimline, the panel could have possibly remained in it's original position (or close to it) :)

If I remember correctly, the transfercase (original) has been moved rearwards resulting in the rear driveshaft being shortened and the front shaft lengthened.

I hope these photos help.

[Rangier Rover]

As said before a servo assist from a Ford Mav or Mazda /Trader Truck would be worth a look. They are compact as well.
Thinking of fitting one to my 120" for the same reason.

[Sideroad]

I just had a closer look and the bonnet has an extension strip at the hinges.
Every day i change my mind about whether it is all worth the effort. Maybe if I had a daily driver and didn't have a short deadline.


These photos are of a S2 that has had the 250 Xflow and C4 installed. The bulkhead has been modified slightly for the transmission and the radiator panel has been moved forwards to accomodate two quite bulky thermo fans. If the thermos were slimline, the panel could have possibly remained in it's original position (or close to it) :)

If I remember correctly, the transfercase (original) has been moved rearwards resulting in the rear driveshaft being shortened and the front shaft lengthened.

I hope these photos help.